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LanceVance

Reveiw my IC piping plans, a little different...

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Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve.

 

Firstly, let me state my goals:

 

1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks.

 

2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier.

 

3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here.

 

Problems:

 

I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with.

 

I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3".

 

The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5"

 

In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying!

 

Whew!

 

Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow.

 

Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at.

 

Screenshot_2013-10-14-18-21-25-1_zpsfdcc

 

IMG_20131014_174244_zps762f70df.jpg

 

IMG_20131014_174422_zps1c3b5eea.jpg

 

Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking?

 

Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post!

 

Discuss...

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You will need silicone "Hump Hoses" on the engine side of your couplers to allow for engine torque over. In front of the core support, everything can be straight tubing rigidly fixed.

New engine and tranny mounts will be installed, so hopefully movement is minimal but I had planned to use these to connect the pipping to the rad support. Think I can get away with regular hoses on the engine?

 

Sounds like a good idea, I am also in the process of figuring out a same side intercooler setup and was gonna cut it all up but this looks like a much better plan. Thumbsup!

 

Glad I could help, though you may well get around to actually trying it out before I do! I'm still a good ways off from the body work stage...

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Adding couplers and clamps (and potential leaks) seems to be at odds with your "simplicity and cleaniness" mantra.

Perhaps, but considering the typical intercooler piping routes (under motor, or behind the radiator, etc) I don't really see the 3 extra couplers as over complicating things.

 

My planning is ever evolving however, the top pipe looks like it will pass through the top hole without any modifications to the rad support. This will be done to facilitate my hidden nitrous system (I cringe to word it that way, as it gives the impression I'm hiding it with some nefarious purpose in mind; I assure you, I'm only doing so because everything else is tucked/shaved/deleted), which will be plumbed in the natural pocket in between the rad supports upper walls.

 

 

I would not reduce the turbo intake from 4" to 3" unless it's absolutely necessary. You will pay a price in performance, though a small one.

 

This is also evolving; considering the work it would take to plumb everything through the relatively small area available to me in the rad support, I've begun also looking at sending it under the headlight into the natural box that makes up the bumper support structure (park bench bumper models only). Considering I've got to mount the early bumpers and an early airdam, I'm putting off cutting anything away before I know what is necessary for them and what clearance issues may arise. Added benefit is the airdam I'm planning on using (3 hole Kaminari) lends itself to ducting into this box, ensuring steady cool air. My STi has a much smaller intake funnel with sharper bends, so I doubt this would be an overly restrictive set up. Best thing is, 4" piping is possible this way, simply by changing where I weld in the joiner.

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similar to mine as well, I didn't run an air filter just open turbo inlet

Hate your turbo much? Wayyyy too much dust in the desert where I live for that!

 

Here is the section of piping from the manifold to the rad support that I had Casey (of Senza Pari) put together. Mostly showing it off, but considering it's relevance to the topic I'll post it anyway...

 

IMG955039_zpsda08df65.jpg

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