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Found 17 results

  1. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  2. Finishing up the build and have a few things needed and want to let go. Lower 48 only. FREE SHIPPING Fuel rails sold, intercooler kit sold. $SOLD Haltech E6X ecu with complete custom harness for S30 chassis. Includes everything shown: harness has leads for all regular/necessary inputs, i.e. IAT, TPS, MAP, trigger, injectors, etc. No sensors included. Also includes injector harness, fuse blocks and relays. Everything is even labeled for easy install. I can also send wiring diagram and base maps for startup but I recommend using a competent tuner as it is a bit old school but still quite powerful. Open to offers. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115714918512243/?sale_post_id=1115714918512243 SOLD Greddy boost controller. Installed but unused and removed. Changed ECUs and no longer need. Includes solenoid, controller, wiring harness, instructions, etc. Just can't find the box but its brand new. I had it mounted under the dash in my Z and left the bracket I made on it since attached with 3m sticky tape. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1115720231845045/?sale_post_id=1115720231845045 $175 Seimens injectors. 575cc. Just flowed/ cleaned by Witch Hunter. 576cc set of 4 good injectors plus 2 cores. Data/flow sheet included. https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1085472664869802/?sale_post_id=1085472664869802 $140 Turbo valve cover: Powdercoated matte bronze. Will post pics as soon as I pick it up from powder coat. $SOLD MSA 2.5" exhaust with dynomax muffler. I had it to compliment the MSA 6-1 header. Sounds awesome. couple of scratches under the diff from light ground contact. $SOLDDistributor Block off plate: Hoke performance. Mine already had a freeze plug pressed in which I kinda dig. $65 OHC valve cover, bare aluminum. All located in Boulder, CO. Happy to meet and exchange cash. Otherwise Paypal and feel free to make offers.
  3. Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there are other issues (I think not all the injectors work well amongst other things). I’m also new to the turbo thing, only having had stock NA engines before. The issue that brings me here today is that I am embarking on a cold air intake build (I plan on building a scoop that goes under the rad and maybe back up in front of it (no more room to go through the rad supports as the weird intercooler has both in and out on the same side, that side), with the filter in an isolated box between the rad and the engine. See upcoming post with air pressure and temperature tests...) and also am looking into isolating my intake piping (see other posts on that, with data too). I don’t want to build things that are useless, so I started taking data before so I can compare before and after. I’ve been measuring and comparing temperatures under various situations and came to the realisation that I might have a problem (not sure, thus the post). If I cruise on the highway at steady speed (say 75mph), I get steady temperature: today at ambient 82 degrees, I got 90 degrees at the air filter, and 120-130 degrees at the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor (I don’t actually know where the guy put that sensor. Any clues?). I’m not certain how good this is, but it does not seems too too bad (still not happy that I’m gaining 65-85 degrees WITH an intercooler under very little load and high air flow. Opinions?). The potential problem occurs as soon as I lift of the gas. If I lift off a little, say to slow down to 60mph(without de-clutching), the temperature climb real quick to 155-175 degrees AIT, while everything else stays the same (air filter temp, RPMs, air flow…). If I completely let go of the gas (without declutching), the AIT skyrockets to 190-215 degrees. In both cases, the temps stay high for a while and only then decrease slowly (unless I give it gas, at which point they go back down quick enough I guess). If I let go of the gas but immediately de-clutch and stay in neutral, the temperature goes up to 150-165, but then comes back down on its own quick enough. I thinking the really high temperature I see when I don’t de-clutch might be a combination of A) slower moving air that gets to take the time to absorb more heat and B ) the fact that, because the engine is working still, there is a significant amount of exhaust that might make the turbo work and thus heat up the air. But how come the intercooler wouldn’t be making up for that? So, is that temp spike normal(ish)? Should I be worried? Any explanations?
  4. There seems to be quite a few posts about ducting the front air dam, but not many have an intercooler. I always saw pictures of a flat sheet going to the core support, and thus making it pretty easy to do. Since I have an oil cooler, and a pretty large intercooler, I knew this wasn't going to be a simple home depot run... After going back and forth, and not wanting to weld up new end tanks/intercooler piping I was left with the challenge of working around my intercooler. I had a few requirements of ensuring I fully blocked off air from escaping and going directly under the car, and ensuring all the intercooler saw air. I also wanted a small portion of the air to bypass the intercooler, to go straight into the radiator. I came up with the below... I started with a large 24x24 sheet from home depot, and really only ended up using 2/3rds of it. From the pictures below, you can see my main goal was to keep as much of the metal as I could, and fill in the rest with fiberglass. So what I really made was a skeleton shell out of the metal sheet. I followed the contour of the core support diagonals, and used cardboard to make the angles. Yes, I know there are drips, and such, but my intercooler almost rests on those areas so I let them be. All the areas which are visible, saw a small coat of bondo. This also ensured that this mated perfectly with my air dam. I let the pictures speak for themselves, and please feel free to reach out with questions. As far as holding this thing in place... You see a stud in the middle of the duct; this pretty much holds it firmly in place. Since I fiberglassed it on the car, it molded/contoured it self in place. I pretty much sat there alone. There were four holes on the core support, which I used plastic push clips to further hold it in place. You see that there are some holes drilled and empty for them. I am not done with the front end; it will be getting blocked off with a large sheet of ABS. This will further channel the air, but wanted to post small updates as they came. A rear diffusor with pics is also coming as well...
  5. Hello friends. I am stuck. I have my stock T3 turbo on my l28et on 12lbs of boost. I have water injection and I always use 91 gas. I'm about a month away from getting Megasquirt 2 installed in my car and tuning it, along with a new FPR, 440cc injectors, a Pallnet fuel rail, and a T3/T4 turbo. The last thing I want is engine detonation right before I get this thing in its final stages for tuning. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a sexy, functioning intercooler that can handle 300-400 hp and that can be installed front mounted in an S130, I'd really appreciate it. I'm looking to piece together my own kit here. If you know of a decent kit for under 400 that'd be great but if not, no worries. I've seen the CXRacing ones and I just can't drop 500 for an intercooler and piping. Gotta save for Megasquirt and the t3/t4. I'm only 16 and I'm working 40 hours a week to get this shit done. Thanks for your help guys.
  6. 1983 280zxet Turbo Engine, Rebuilt apprx 10k mi. ago. Turbonetics Turbo(water&oil cooled, f54 block n90a head, stock injectors and TB, Exhaust mani has external wastegate port welded on, Clutch is included, but trans is not. This is Local pick up, or I can deliver within MD for addl fee(if you have a engine hoist to get it out of my van upon arrival)... $1200 SDS em2F Engine management system, controls fuel and spark, Complete system includes every single thing needed to plug in and run ----SOLD---- LS1 coil on plug upgrade, including mounting bracket, hot water reroute housing and hose, and oil dipstick that goes around the bracket on coil..... $250+ Shipping Large front mount intercooler, piping, and blow off valve.... ----SOLD---- Senza Pari custom intake manifold (Still being built by builder so I guess I would contact him and inform him of the change of possesion, and once he's finished he will mail to you instead of me, I paid in full upfront by the way,---UPDATE- I sent Casey a email inquiring as to whether I can get a refund or if I have to wait and sell it once I get it.waiting to hear back, it'll play out one way or the other LOL).... $650 + $125 (for donor intake I purchased)+ Shipping Turbo exhaust manifold ----SOLD---- 240sx 60mm Throttle body---- SOLD ----
  7. Getting the Z out of paint this week. Need to get rid of the stock J-pipe. Have become somewhat familiar with the various options for intercooler setup. I do not plan to run a ton of boost but also, refuse to have the j-pipe. Looking for full intercooler setup with piping, BOV, etc., if possible. Located in the North NJ area.
  8. Had an extra greddy intercooler of my s13 but it's to big to put into my 280z. What intercoolers do you guys run? Is there a way to do a stacked set up to fill the gap? possibly an extra support?
  9. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T3-T4-T04E-Universal-Turbo-Charger-Kit-WASTEGATE-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-/390750137211 comes with t3/4 turbo, an intercooler, some piping, a waste gate, and some other goodies…. Im mainly interested in it because it seems to be decently comprehensive and cheap… on the other hand I'm skeptical of it for the same reason…. i know the intercooler will be crap but I'm probably only going to be running 10psi or so, so i don't need the best of the best but what do you guys think about the turbo and the other parts? and in general opinions of ebay things like this? -thanks
  10. Hello, I'm selling a very large turbo intercooler used specifically in a 240Z. I bought a complete custom intercooler set up and piping for my 260Z with an RB26DETT swap but upon installation it was discovered that the radiator core support on the 240Z is slightly narrower than the one on the 260Z. As a result I had to get a different front mount intercooler that fits my car. So I'm selling this intercooler for $250 + shipping. A Google search using the number listed on the intercooler shows up as an Apexi universal intercooler coresize:600x300x100. I couldn't find an exact price on this thing but they start from $275 for a Rolin super monster (which I've never heard of) to $475 for a GTR drag intercooler. So I believe $250 + shipping is fair. If you would like pictures or have any questions either e-mail me on here and leave an e-mail address or text me at 314-three four eight- 58 three nine. Thank You,
  11. Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve. Firstly, let me state my goals: 1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks. 2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier. 3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here. Problems: I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with. I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3". The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5" In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying! Whew! Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow. Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking? Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post! Discuss...
  12. Hello, I'm selling a very large turbo intercooler used specifically in a 240Z. I bought a complete custom intercooler set up and piping for my 260Z with an RB26DETT swap but upon installation it was discovered that the radiator core support on the 240Z is slightly narrower than the one on the 260Z. As a result I had to get a different front mount intercooler that fits my car. So I'm selling this intercooler for $250 + shipping. A Google search using the number listed on the intercooler shows up as an Apexi universal intercooler coresize:600x300x100. I couldn't find an exact price on this thing but they start from $275 for a Rolin super monster (which I've never heard of) to $475 for a GTR drag intercooler. So I believe $250 + shipping is fair. Item is located in Columbus, GA. Let me know if you have any questions. Thank You,
  13. For Sale: 17x9.5 Rota Rb-r -19 offset with Hankook 255/40/17 tires in good condition. $1000 plus shipping Tokico Struts and Springs, struts are in good condition (not blown) and springs had been cut a coil to a coil and half. $225 plus shipping Precision 600hp intercooler $275 plus shipping 240z Rear bumper (painted black). $75 plus shipping Sorry no pictures right now. Apexi turbo timer $45 plus shipping Q45 throttle body $80 plus shipping Contact info: Richard M. Pm me email me: lookitzrich@yahoo.com text me: 805 815 5275 prefer local pick up but will ship at buyers expense.
  14. Hello Folks. Does anybody have these FMIC from Simtec installed? Any reviews? http://simtecmotorsports.com/S30fmic.htm I am in the hunt and I've read alot using the NPR, Volvo 740, Starion etc. But the thing is, I don't have the tools to cut and bend the piping. These ones here are ready to install and fitted for the 280z with probably minor modification. And for the price they are descent. I could not find any reviews of this part here in the forum. I just got the l28et installed in the 280z and would like to upgrade with the FMIC. I will be replacing the clutch fan with electronic to fit these piping. Need some input from the experts. Thanks
  15. Nissan L28 ET - $500 (North Atlanta) This is the most popular engine swap among Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX restorers or "Hybrid" conversions. P-90A Turbo cylinder head and F54 block. Includes wiring harness, black box from donor, oil cooler, just about everything under the hood of the donor 280ZXT... Others are advertising the same engine for $1000 and all you are getting is the engine for that price. Not a good deal when I have this engine and associated parts for sale. I also have a large intercooler that fits with minor modification in the core support in front of the radiator for any 240Z, 260Z or 280Z or 280ZX at $200 and a stainless flange to mount the exhaust down-pipe from the turbo to a custom exhaust system @ $25.00 Since this is a straight 6, it will bolt up in place of your N/A 2.4L, 2.6L or 2.8L. Super easy swap! Refurbish it and go race! No spammers. REPLY WITH "FASTER DATSUN" in your subject line OR I WILL NOT REPLY! Text 404-247-8485 or call. Engine is sitting on a shipping pallet ready to send to you. Weight is 472 lbs. Shipped from Forrest Park, GA 30297 to their nearest location to you. Shipping company is Forward Air. You are responsible for shipping costs. FIRST PERSON WITH CASH GETS IT. Thanks!
  16. 82/83 Turbo Engine Harness-$150 83 Turbo Ecu- $150 Turbo Fuel Injectors- $100 Turbo AFM- $80 Stock T3 Turbo-$150 Front Mount Intercooler plus piping, fit s30, all piping with coupling from turbo to throttle body. Plug and Play- $300 Turbo Manifold- $80 82/83 Dizzy complete with cap and rotor and wires-$125 82/82 oilpump and shaft- $150. Oil pump has about 1k miles on it. Stock knock sensor- make offer Cylinder head sensor- make offer 240sx 60mm throttle body, spacer, already modifed to bolt onto l series manifold- $100 I have more stuff from engine not listed, just send me a pm if you need something else.
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