Jump to content

Rolling with the punches a 75 280Z v8 Refresh

Recommended Posts

Got a little work done this weekend, one rear spindle striped primed painted and all put back together. With lowering springs and 240z top hats. I just love the way parts look when they are all clean.



post-19246-0-31918200-1395690603_thumb.jpg before


post-19246-0-75758100-1395690602_thumb.jpg 240z top hats


post-19246-0-05238300-1395690604_thumb.jpg after all painted looking clean




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The weather has been beautiful for the past week but sadly I have had very little time to get work done on the car but I did get a few things done.  Got the rlca in place and all torque down, replaced the old fuel lines from tank to hard line and installed a fuel filter in line not 100% happy with it I want to fab up a bracket to mount it . but for now its k the old lines were so brittle they snapped off when I tugged on them crazy scary when I think I have been driving with them , and with further inspection found them to be the cause of the trash I have been getting in my pre carb filter. Also got the brake drums cleaned and painted along with getting the rear strut tower bar finished out and painted up and throwing a quick cote of cheap black on the exposed section of the gas tank for now till I have it refinished.  I am very happy with the outcome of the strut tower bar and have done a write up on it in the weld and fab area. And I found one of my rear Tokico to be blown and is being replaced with a KYB for now.


post-19246-0-33474300-1396623306_thumb.jpg Old fuel line


post-19246-0-34714600-1396623308_thumb.jpg new line with filter not loving the way I did it will change


post-19246-0-14274800-1396623309_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-60915000-1396623310_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-87275300-1396623311_thumb.jpg  More back in place getting so close


post-19246-0-83043300-1396623357_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-95203700-1396623359_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-63684000-1396623361_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-15963200-1396623357_thumb.jpg Finshed rear strut tower brace


post-19246-0-55724200-1396623362_thumb.jpg Fresh coat for the drums


post-19246-0-32164300-1396623363_thumb.jpg Cheap coat for the tank but it dose look better from the back  will be doing a full refresh on tank when I have time and money.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this was a weekend of ups and down for the Z but let’s start with the positive. As mentioned in my last post I did not like the way I had tackled the fuel filter. I decided to build a holding bracket based off the original fuel pump  bracket , having one handy I made a cardboard template  to test the size and idea and it looked dead on so I found a piece of scrap plate from work that just happened to be the exact size I needed. After the metal was sourced I needed to find a way to tackle the lip on the filter so after some poking around in a scrap pile found a piece of delrin to use and a good mounting point and a capacitor holder to lock the filter in place with some rubber hose as a insulator and a few holes bends and bolts later I have a very nice mounting solution. Got it all painted up and installed with new lines and am much happier now.  After I finished up that little project I was set on getting the Z back on the road driving. So I got the sway bar on and the struts all put back together and back in the car. I had forgot how much of a PITA getting the spindle pins lined up is add new poly bushings and poof there goes 35 minutes of your life. All that aside I got the strut assembles back in place and bolted up, and am very happy I spent the time to clean and repaint all the components came out looking great. At this point I was very happy everything was just going together like it should, and then came the drive shaft and adaptor I went to put the adaptor on my diff and came to the realization that my sway bar was in the way. After looking at it all and romping through the r/t diff mount threads I found that this happens sometimes due to the es mount being to tall and couple that with me putting washers were they did not need to go and there is my problem. So this lead to the removal of the diff  with r/t mount  once more I believe I am coming very good at R&Ring the diff. So I pulled it and decided I could do a better job on mounting the adaptor plate out of the car bur I did not have my dial indicator with me and I only had 3/8 bolts to mount it and I wanted to do it right so the diff would need to wait a few days to be all finished and reinstalled. On the other hand all my car needed was the wheels put on to be a roller and I could see how it looks lowered in the back so the wheels got slapped on and the jack stand  removed  and the Z is on its own legs once more and I am one happy guy. The combo of the shorter top hats and lowering springs  lead to now only having 2” of wheel gap in the back with no gas and no diff in the car and I will need to roll my fenders a touch even though I am only running a 215/60/15. I rolled the car out of the garage and was able to do some much needed cleaning of my work space along. All and all not a bad weekend and I cannot wait to see how it looks lowered all around.


new fuel filter bracket post-19246-0-47606600-1397668682_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-49128300-1397668692_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-33809700-1397668700_thumb.jpg


and painted post-19246-0-48131100-1397668708_thumb.jpg


and installedpost-19246-0-98773900-1397668723_thumb.jpg


back on her own four feet post-19246-0-58139000-1397669436_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-78450500-1397669387_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-85015300-1397668731_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-66846100-1397669362_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-48407400-1397669370_thumb.jpeg 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Having a beautiful Z you can drive in the lovely spring weather is overrated right …..RIGHT. The diff is back in the car after spending a few day tracking down the right bolt to go with my diff adapter pate to diff that is and the modding them to fit the holes, along with grinding down my gm trans mount for the r/t mount ( wow that makes a mess) and making the choice to use the azc solid diff mount along with the r/t  style I had made I know its redundant but I was getting frustrated at this point I I knew if the acz mount fit the r/t was right so both it is for now. And it worked everything looks good my silly adapter plate clears the sway bar. So I bolted the half shafts up no problem and the the drive shaft and of course I was missing one drive shaft bolt and it happens to be a weird size bolt ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head ))  that I can no find using my best Google fu. So I moved on at this point the car is almost derivable all it need is the rear brakes bled and on the road. So you know what I did …. Pulled the front end apart and that is where I am at now official start of the front end refresh. Just got all my new parts in ball joints tie rod ends and rack boots , once aging I can’t wait to get it on the road. also got my 5 point installed and found some e-tape on the front sway bar to make up for wrong size front bushings.


If you guys could please help me track down a bolt this size it would much appreciate it 

 ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head)). 





Edited by hwvigo

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Your local Nissan dealer might be ab;e to get them or Courtesy (the link).  Spendy.






You should run solid mustache bar mounts (no rubber on the ends) with a solid front mount.  Otherwise the solid mount will take all of the load, while the mustache bar wings just float and do not much.  People have had the cross member metal fatigue and break with solid front mounts.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick update right front all back together looks so much better. Did not like how faded the tail light bezel was so I plasit-diped it and it came out very nice like the look of plasti-pid on pieces like this one. I also pulled the big ugly rear bumper off not just got to get the bumper shocks off heard it can be a real PITA well that’s all till next time true believers!





Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I half to say all the hard work and hours of prep and paint and putting on and taking back off and head aches and frustration were all worth it ever single second. There is no felling like climbing in you Z after 10 months down and driving it. now I just need to get the timing set right (( found my distributor was lose and after hard acceleration would did and not want to restart )) and she is good for a bit of summer fun. And I love the way it sits not low but not to low. Also did some work on my radiator over flow set up did not like the way it was run and my cheap over flow can needed some modding so it would not hold pressure and vacuum and cause my lower radiator hose to collapse. I missed this car!



post-19246-0-31739000-1399994782_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-17379300-1399994784_thumb.jpg almost to low to reach the keypad to get in my apartment complex. 


post-19246-0-23583900-1399995038_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-57865700-1399995048_thumb.jpg before and after of over flow setup.

Edited by hwvigo

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got some good pics of the Z this weekend after spending some time rubbing compounding and waxing it. Also made it out to a small local car show with one of the guys from OKZCC with his killer 350Z. and I found out I really need to roll my rear fenders I am killing my tires.post-19246-0-29669000-1400508843_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-40908700-1400508841_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-30148500-1400508840_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-25948000-1400508837_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-40748900-1400508842_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-05789500-1400508846_thumb.jpg

post-19246-0-93735900-1400509223_thumb.jpg like  the way this one edited up 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am starting on the engine bay clean up and this is were it is at as of now.

post-19246-0-41874200-1401905365_thumb.jpg cluttered 

post-19246-0-80068300-1401905331_thumb.jpg ratty harness

post-19246-0-21965700-1401905431_thumb.png on the other hand my car did get some love on IG last week



This should be fun and I know it will look better in the end!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I got some work done last night and so far so good.I started buy removing the A/C that has not worked in along time along with all brackets and the condenser and all piping vac bottle and vac solenoids.Then  striped the harness of all the old heat shielding it had and e-tape. I picked up some of the high temp resistant e-tape we use at my job along with some DEI goodies the aluminium heat reflect  tape along with the slip through heat sleeve. After e-taping every thing in the bay along with re routing some wires I set off to heat shield the harness were it passes by the rams horn manifold. I layed 3 layers of the reflect tape then cut and wrapped the sleeve around it then wrapped that in the reflect tape. Came out looking much better along with painting my brake booster it is looking much better but will be getting some more love soon if the weather lets me.

post-19246-0-57049400-1401991333_thumb.jpg old heat shield and exposed wires 

post-19246-0-05089800-1401991336_thumb.jpg striped and e_taped

post-19246-0-87450300-1401991338_thumb.jpg striped and e_taped

post-19246-0-10530700-1401991341_thumb.jpg drivers side minus a/c with cleaned up wires 

post-19246-0-96171000-1401991342_thumb.jpg no more vac bottle and solenoids 

post-19246-0-97411400-1401991344_thumb.jpg new heat shielding on

post-19246-0-00211700-1401991347_thumb.jpgnew heat shielding on

post-19246-0-71252100-1401991576_thumb.jpg nice gap that was not there to start 

post-19246-0-07692100-1401991349_thumb.jpg rusty booster 

post-19246-0-01132400-1401991351_thumb.jpg wet paint 

evolution of my bay and engine   

post-19246-0-65101100-1401992083_thumb.jpg in the beginning 

post-19246-0-44661300-1401992084_thumb.jpg just got it to OK

post-19246-0-30461400-1401992085_thumb.jpg new rad and air filter 

post-19246-0-49021600-1401992086_thumb.jpg some changes be still cluttered 

post-19246-0-13480600-1401992650_thumb.jpg as it is now much better still more change to come 

post-19246-0-50441200-1401992653_thumb.jpg phone pics sorry 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Over the weekend I got the engine bay finished up cleaned and painted the valve covers and pulled the exhaust manifolds and painted them. Along with getting the car all cleaned up for IFO Tulsa. The only draw back of the weekend is IFO got canceled due to weather . But since i had spent a few hours cleaning the car for the event i took some more pics. I am finally ok with popping my hood now. I also got some good interior shots along with a good shot of the rear strut tower brace I made and the drivers seat is faded but fits me perfect got to love old school Recaro . Now its time to save for wheels tires and bigger brakes. 















Edited by hwvigo

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It has come to my attention that I have not posted any specs up on my build so I thought I should fix my oversight.


Engine specs

-          GM 350 small block

-          L-82 350ci/350hp GM Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Duration @ .050 in. 222/222, Lift .450/.460,

-          Stock 350 truck heads with porting  

-          Stock valves ,rockers ,lifters, push rods, connecting rods ,and pistons    

-          1 rams horn exhaust manifold with porting , 1 standard exhaust manifold with porting

-          holley street dominator intake

-          (daily) edelbrock 650 cfm carb  or, (race) holley 800 cfm double pumper

-          MSD street fire HEI distributor with matching wires

-          Accel header plugs

-          Moroso valve covers and air cleaner cover  wrinkle black

-          K&N air filter



-          Speed daddy 3 row aluminum radiator for 280Z

-          2 ten inch puller fans rated @ 950 cfm

-          Gates hoses

-           GM high flow water pump



-           TH 350 stock GM

-          B&m shift kit

-          Stock stall



-Tokico HP shocks blues all four corners

- MSA lowering springs

-240Z rear top hats

- Energy suspension full poly bushing kit

-stock sway bars

- Custom rear strut tower brace by me



-          Stock R200

-          Custom R/T-Z diff mount  with GM ES trans bushing  by me

-          AZC solid diff mount

-          Shortened Chevy drive shaft

-          Johns cars Chevy to Datsun  adapter flange for diff



-Recaro seats form 82 mustang gt

-  G-Force 5point latch style harness



-unknown front valance (would like help indentifying it )

- Fiberglass rear wing one piece

- 15x7 Eagle alloy 5 star

- 215/60/15 tires

- repaint from original green to gloss black 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Things brake at the worst time but some times you look back after you have been pissed off and go wow I was lucky. I have put a few hundred miles on the car sense I finished up the suspension so it was time to go re torque all the bolts and re check everything. Found a few slightly loose bolts nothing to bad I also re tightened my gland nuts due to a slight CLUNK when I let off the gas. As we all know that means un hooking the brake lines and a re bleeding of the rears. Called a friend over to pump the pedal cracked the bleeder air comes out go to tighten it back down and the threads are striped out of the wheel cylinder. A few select words were said due to the fact I was planing on auto-crossing the car for the first time this Sunday. After I had cooled down I realized how lucky I was to have not got to the track this weekend with only 1 thread holding the bleeder in it could of popped out under hard breaking. So now I have a new wheel cylinder on the way and am starting to piece together a rear brake swap for after I get my S12+8's on the front  in a few weeks. I also found the cause of a exhaust on body noise turned out do be a busted rubber exhaust isolator, so I made a new one out of some Eaton syn-flex hyd hose its some really tough stuff rated up to 3000 psi and a strong braid in it so should last a good long time.

Till next time.


Will S.






On another note I got the final design for my fan shroud done in solid works looks great if any one would like the fine just let me know the I/D is 16 1/4" x 24 3/4"  with 10 3/4" fan openings 

post-19246-0-04565700-1403288231_thumb.jpg  by hwvigo & Alex M.


Edited by hwvigo

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it has been a busy 3 weeks for me. I got married on June 28th and it was a killer wedding followed by a amazing honey moon in San Antonio TX. Got back on the 4th of July and ordered some parts as a birthday / wedding present to my self Toyota S12+8 calipers , SS lines for the Toyota calipers ,SS lines for the rear drums, Poterfield 4rs pads for the Toyota calipers, and also had a buddy grab me a Taurus fan for the pick and pull so I needed a fan wiring kit so I grabbed  one off eBay. Now the work starts, I made the choice to tackle the Taurus fan first for most this is a easy install. But in my case due to that  have a Johns cars v8z kit not so much the water pump was much in the way of the fan just slipping in so i trimmed .5" off the shroud still not enough. So I pulled the radiator so I could have a good look at how to get more clearance and the 280z radiator has wing that fold in over the core and add 1/4" of height so those got very carefully dremmiled off along with 1/4" more of the shroud and all overhanging bits of too. And it fit after all the cutting and trimming all it needed was some foam to seal and protect  and to make some mounting brackets and re test fit, so I bent up some mounting brackets and all worked out good. So then came the wiring I decided to go for a 195F thermo controlled low speed and a switched high speed the kit I bought off eBay needed some work and a extra relay and more wire to make it work how I wanted I used a 60 amp 5 pin for the high and a 40 amp 4 pin for low all power and ground wires 10 gauge with 16 gauge trigger wires and soldered  connections. I was able to hide the two relays in the stock relay cover under the hood and ran all the wires with the factory harness for a clean look. Filled the radiator with distilled water and water wetter and jacked up the front and burped the system and tested the new cooling setup and low and behold @ 195F  fan kicked on and with in 2 mins temp was below 180F. I could not be happier that fan moves some air sitting in my garage it never got hot! Much better than my old fans that did nothing to keep it cool. and That all I have had time to do other that paint the new calipers Brembo gold because we all know gold brake calipers make the car stop quicker,but all the parts are in and I get need some time.


 A few wedding pics 




Edited by hwvigo

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Curious as to how you have your harness mounted? Is this feasible/safe for street use? I will get a harness eventually and just would like some input.

It is very safe for street use, the relays are mounted in the stock box on the right side of the bay them the wires travel down through the stock wire holders down to the frame rail and follow the harness to the front. Keep in mind that i did weather proof the relays and connectors with rubber insulation tape and shrink wrap then silicone the pin exits on the relay and then wrapped the whole thing in E tape. I am good at over kill!   

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well today marks my Z,s 39th birthday my Z was delivered to my dad 7/18/75 so HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my car and also marks one year of having the car to work on and much has changed. I am so happy with the way things have been going and can not wait to see what the future holds for me and my Z.

post-19246-0-31249000-1405692565_thumb.jpg Datsun card

post-19246-0-56497300-1405692612_thumb.jpg On the way home one year ago. 

post-19246-0-43857500-1405692613_thumb.jpg Right after I got it running the day after it came home.

post-19246-0-92877400-1405692726_thumb.jpg How it looks now.

post-19246-0-24199100-1405692736_thumb.jpg How it looks now 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now