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VQ35DE 73 240 Build


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#21 astroboy

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:07 AM

Nice work man, Keep it coming! 

 

How many litres of fuel do you think you'll be able to hold now with that tank?

 

P.S. Glad you're better now too.



#22 Tank

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 05:21 AM

Astro- I'm not quite sure what the capacity of the tank is at this point. I will know when I fill it for the first time and I will pass that along. Thanks!


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#23 Tank

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 05:26 AM

Aerocatch hood latches installed. This is with a stock steel hood and the post had to be a little more inward than I wanted but they will be out of the way. I was able to weld them in 3 different places so they are plenty strong. Really they do not support the weight of the hood, they only keep it down. I also have a cowl induction fiberglass hood I will fit as well that came on the car when I bought it (over 15 years ago).

 

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#24 Tank

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Posted 02 April 2015 - 08:33 AM

I have been doing some research as to what oil works well in the VQ35DE for my driving style (read: abuse). There are some fantastic used oil analysis (UOA) posted on my350z.com with some great reads about engine oil properties and how it affects wear. Here is the link http://my350z.com/fo...s-and-info.html. I have decided to go with AmsOil 10w-30 and have my own analysis completed after everything is said and done.

 

Also with regards to fluid, I am going with Redline MT-85 for the transmission. It is a 75w85 which is the weight and viscosity specified by Nissan and is a GL4. I have read that GL5 fluids are bad for the synchcros in a VQ manual transmission due to the sulfur additives.

 

 

In other news with the project...body work, body work, body work.

 

 


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#25 Tank

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 05:47 PM

Small update, body work was going very slow, too slow in fact. I am currently building a new house and it is taking every free moment I have so the Z is getting the professional treatment. I'll have it back by the time I finish my house so this winter I will be putting it all back together...stay tuned folks.


The Porsche Cayman GT4 is a post-graduate study in handling to a Miata's undergraduate education- MotorTrend


#26 Pharaohabq

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 08:56 PM

still tuned...  No updates?   Maybe the house is taking too much time..   I can't complain, I haven't done much on my Swap either, Steering issues are a pain, but I've got the 350z column in, but the tilt is still remaining to be figured.



#27 Tank

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 11:19 AM

Yeah I'm still on it! Well, sort of, it has taken a back seat to the house which will be done around April/May. But I am very ready to start putting everything back together, can't wait to drive this car again! Nice job on the 350z column, that's awesome. 


The Porsche Cayman GT4 is a post-graduate study in handling to a Miata's undergraduate education- MotorTrend


#28 onyx_riddle

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 06:56 AM

Hey Tank!   Love this build!

 

Quick question though:

 

Could you, given the very specific compatibility between my project and yours, tell me what wiring and electrical components i would need in order to make sure i won't buy a big boat anchor?

 

I've only ever swapped in old carbureted v8 engines back when I was younger and now that i'm on my own.. Im just afraid ill never get the thing to turn over.

 

If i have the ecu and the engine wiring harness.. what else could i be over looking?  Are vq engines known for having odd security features that require some heavy re-wiring?

 

 

I have a 76 and I'm ABOUT to chose my engine and get started.

 

It has a 350 in it but the install was not done to my satisfaction

I currently have my eye on either a 5.3 chevrolet, a vq with 6mt or an i6 with a 5 speed.

 

I guess my question is just:  Exactly what goes into making a vq motor start and run outside of the machine it was originally pulled from?



#29 Tank

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 06:44 PM

Onyx, when it comes to the vq, there are three options.

1- standalone engine management, not many doing that these days on regular motors because of options 2 and 3.
2- full wiring harness from the donar car, this includes the ecu, bcm, and lots of uneeded wiring. This requires an in depth process of picking through the wiring harnesses deleting what is not needed
3- reflash the ecu to work with no input from the bcm. This is what I have gone with.

What option 3 does, is allows the engine to operate with only what it needs, using the stock engine harness. No other computers or wiring harnesses are needed. However you still need a few other components such as the accelerator pedal assembly and obd II plug. So essentially the suck bang blow process still happens with stock components. The ecu is reprogrammed to delete the NATS (Nissan anti-theft system) which allows it to operate the engine without input from anything else. And the wiring harness is modified to give you 4 wires to hook up to the chassis. Ignition, ground, fuel pump trigger, and power.

That's the basics, but there are details such as grafting gauge sensors in the engine as the ecu will not send signals to gauges. This is easily solved with adapters, additional sensors, etc. For example I am running a splitter on the oil pressure plug to run the stock sensor for the ecu, and one for a gauge.

Now wen it comes to a 5.3, or any LS for that matter, you have the same options and more. But it is still easiest to send the engine harness and ecu off to an expert to reprogram and prewire for a generic installation. Options are widely available and affordable being that it is 'merican.

Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site covering pretty much everything including detailed write up on all of these options.

The Porsche Cayman GT4 is a post-graduate study in handling to a Miata's undergraduate education- MotorTrend


#30 ovenfood

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Posted 12 January 2017 - 12:48 AM

Hey tank, I've been doing a bit of a man look so I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong places but have you seen much info on VQ swaps with auto Transmissions? My current understanding is I need to buy a whole 350Z and keep the whole loom intact including the cluster but this was more of a suggestion than a 100% knowledge that I have to keep everything.
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1974 240K - Life long project {plan = L31, R200 VLSD, 5spd manual, will "look" stock}
1979 200B - Daily, CA18DE + 5 speed manual
1973 240Z - bought as a mostly there roller plans (currently) are VQ35DE and auto.

#31 Tank

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Posted 20 January 2017 - 11:55 AM

Sorry I'm just now getting back to you. I have not seen much info on auto swaps but from what I understand, the ECU and BCM must be able to communicate with the trans module. So this would lead me to believe that they all need to be from an automatic car and not mix-matched from a manual and auto car. Give the guys at ZFever or RS Enthalpy call, those guys would definitely know the answer.


The Porsche Cayman GT4 is a post-graduate study in handling to a Miata's undergraduate education- MotorTrend


#32 ovenfood

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 06:01 AM

Yeah I will probably shoot them an email before committing to it.
ovenfoodGTRsig.jpg
1974 240K - Life long project {plan = L31, R200 VLSD, 5spd manual, will "look" stock}
1979 200B - Daily, CA18DE + 5 speed manual
1973 240Z - bought as a mostly there roller plans (currently) are VQ35DE and auto.




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