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Everything posted by Tank

  1. Nice build, I've been down this path, it took me 10 years. But man it's worth it!
  2. Been a bit since I updated but I've put about 400 miles on it. Such a blast to drive, it's ridiculous how well it handles and goes. No drama, just does what you ask of it. For the cooling, I had to change to a recirculating overflow tank. So now it can push/pull fluid with heat cycles.
  3. +1 on that, mine runs flawless as well. Only difference is I am not running the stock sending unit. I have the speedhut sending unit in the top beside the aeromotive unit.
  4. +1 on the retro sound. I just finished a complete restoration so I ran the mic up to the corner of the sun visor so the Bluetooth and hands free calling is a nice add. I also have tweeters in the dash vents (I wanted everything to look stock), 5-1/4 in the shallow kick panels, 6x9s behind the seats and a 12” sub with amp in the spare tire well. Best part is none of it noticeable. I can find some photos of the install if any one is interested.
  5. So I have a vq35de swap with cd009 6 spd in my 73. With that, the shifter has been moved about 2 inches to the rear from the stock location. I wanted to keep the stock console so this is what I ended up with. Very happy with the results, if you don’t know these cars very well, you would never know it was relocated. As for the original panel above the fuse panel, I made a new one with a sheet of abs plastic and a heat gun. Then I wrapped it in suede. It’s a perfect spot for the phone. I have since changed the cord to a black one so it blends in nicely. pic dump! The photo above shows the piece already cut and epoxied in the new spot. I filled in any other cut areas with some abs plastic pieces cut to fit. choke slot filled with epoxy and the body filler to smooth out. I used SEM texture and trim black paint to finish it. Other details include repairing/adding new shifter boot tabs to clip the boot to. And putting a little suede in the ash tray for the rfid key fob (push button start).
  6. I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
  7. Ended up rebuilding the 3.5 rear I had which took 3 weeks and lots of headaches getting the right parts. All new bearings, Mfactory lsd, ended up at .006 backlash with no additional shims required. Should have it back in tomorrow and back on the road Saturday.
  8. Thanks. Cross fingers, I think I have the coolant system bled now. That's what I thought previously as well until I really got on it (triple digit speed) and pushed an air pocket through. Now on to the rear.
  9. Forgot about the bar, I have an autopower bar as well. It's a 73 with R200 and Troy Ermish axles. ....And a 12" sub in the spare tire well....That all adds up doesn't it. I was talking with one of the techs there at SOHO Motorsports and he is developing an adapter for the VQ to use a Z32 5spd. Simply for size and weight savings. The 6spd in it is very large and of coarse much heavier than a 4 or 5 speed. But it's a brut. However the Z32 5 spd would hold up just fine at my power levels.
  10. I did not, not clue what it was prior to the swap. I would think someone with a full interior and L motor would be able to provide a weight.
  11. Road videos will have to wait, battling the coolant system...can’t seem to get this thing completely bled. And, the rear end is making some noises that are concerning. One of which I think I know the issue. The right stub axle stud heads rub the diff housing on decel. It’s almost like the diff stub axle isn’t completely popped in place (obx helical lsd). Plus, the 3.9 is a little too much with cd009 transmission. I have a 3.5 I may build and swap. Just need to drive it more to make a decision. I’ve only put 60 miles on it!
  12. Accidentally deleted so reposting. full interior vq35de with z1 lightweight flywheel and crank pulley 2574 lbs without me, near perfect 50/50 balance. And yes Leon, it does get better with me in it. All weights except right front get closer together. With me IN the car, there is a 90lb difference between the right front and left front. All other weights become closer. Yes corner balance would make it perfect but I’m good with where it ended up. The coilovers I have don’t allow to adjust ride height separate from preload so we just set the ride height and this is where it ended up. 270/270 at the wheels, that’s around 320 at the fly. A lot of fun to drive that’s for sure.
  13. And the results are in. 2574 lbs without me in it, near perfect 50/50 front/rear balance. 270 hp and 270 torque at the wheels. its nice and spicy on the street. Very well balanced car all around.
  14. Going on the scales for corner balancing and the dyno on 5/1 at SOHO Motorsports outside of Charlotte, NC.
  15. Awesome, that should be a lot of fun. I’m very happy with the Zfever harness service and support from Doug. It makes the swap very easy. One thing worth noting, to power the ecu from switched 12v, plan on running a 40 amp relay on a 20 amp fuse.
  16. I completely regret having parts sandblasted. Then again, if the user isn’t an idiot, you should be fine. Ended up costing me a fortune because the hood, hatch, one door, and a quarter were warped from excessive heat.
  17. And to bring this back from the dead, this car is nearly done.......12 years after I started and got carried away with while I’m at it.
  18. ME TOO!!!!! That’s funny, I built a house, have a 2.5 year old so I totally relate. My car is in the body shop now, I hope to have it back sometime in July so you should see my build finally take shape. Good luck!
  19. Sorry I'm just now getting back to you. I have not seen much info on auto swaps but from what I understand, the ECU and BCM must be able to communicate with the trans module. So this would lead me to believe that they all need to be from an automatic car and not mix-matched from a manual and auto car. Give the guys at ZFever or RS Enthalpy call, those guys would definitely know the answer.
  20. Onyx, when it comes to the vq, there are three options. 1- standalone engine management, not many doing that these days on regular motors because of options 2 and 3. 2- full wiring harness from the donar car, this includes the ecu, bcm, and lots of uneeded wiring. This requires an in depth process of picking through the wiring harnesses deleting what is not needed 3- reflash the ecu to work with no input from the bcm. This is what I have gone with. What option 3 does, is allows the engine to operate with only what it needs, using the stock engine harness. No other computers or wiring harnesses are needed. However you still need a few other components such as the accelerator pedal assembly and obd II plug. So essentially the suck bang blow process still happens with stock components. The ecu is reprogrammed to delete the NATS (Nissan anti-theft system) which allows it to operate the engine without input from anything else. And the wiring harness is modified to give you 4 wires to hook up to the chassis. Ignition, ground, fuel pump trigger, and power. That's the basics, but there are details such as grafting gauge sensors in the engine as the ecu will not send signals to gauges. This is easily solved with adapters, additional sensors, etc. For example I am running a splitter on the oil pressure plug to run the stock sensor for the ecu, and one for a gauge. Now wen it comes to a 5.3, or any LS for that matter, you have the same options and more. But it is still easiest to send the engine harness and ecu off to an expert to reprogram and prewire for a generic installation. Options are widely available and affordable being that it is 'merican. Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site covering pretty much everything including detailed write up on all of these options.
  21. Yeah I'm still on it! Well, sort of, it has taken a back seat to the house which will be done around April/May. But I am very ready to start putting everything back together, can't wait to drive this car again! Nice job on the 350z column, that's awesome.
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