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1969honda

Midnight Madness 560z...

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Yeah that's the thought process right now. I called clutch Masters because they've done a few vk56 setups for the cd009 with their 8.5" twin disc and a button on the flex plate but they want $2700. I know I can do better than that if I put some thought into it and get a bellhousing. I leave for a month this weekend though so it'll be on the back burner again until and the 4th of July. Hopefully I can get a bell ordered though and have it here when I come home. Hopefully I can get a rotisserie done at that time as well, really been pushing to get excess crap out of the garage so I can get the car in the air

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And this is on the way, should get here while I'm gone to school and be waiting when I return. If the transmission holes are evenly spaced it will make centering and lining up the input shaft on the adapter plate so much easier.

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Edited by 1969honda

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So I'm kind of bouncing around on focus right now, but I'm also away from the car so my mind is wandering. I've got the bellhousing ordered for the transmission, feelers out on a couple different flywheel clutch combos, most the parts and design figured out for a rotisserie and today I think I finalized plans for the oil pan sump and pickup.

 

I got most of a baffle plate to keep oil in the sump figured out before leaving home today (sorry forgot to take picks of the C.A.D. template), and I sent 440source an email about a couple pickup screen boxes they make. The attached picture shows two options they offer at very reasonable prices. If the steel one will fit in the space I measured I should be able to modify the pickup and use a combination of AN fittings and 3/4" tubing to hook it all together. This should allow me to ditch the stock lower steel oil pan, gain about 3-4" ground clearance, and put some baffles around the pickup.

 

The attached oil pan photos are not mine but show pretty well what I'm dealing with. The last picture shows the stock cast-in pick up tube from the under side of the pan, it actually runs all the way to the back of the block and is closed off on both ends with freezer plugs.

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The clutch/flywheel/adapter are going to take some more thought, math, planning but we'll get there. Front transmission pattern isn't going to make life easy but we'll sort it out. Between your bell, my bell and the two transmissions we'll have most of what we need for a billet adapter plate I need to get an engine here to mock stuff up. Might just need to find a Coyote for now as I've already got parts for it and the Voodoo will drop right in later. Should be able to sell the Coyote for a profit later anyway. That would give us the last of the reference data.

 

We have plenty of rear end stuff to occupy all the time we have at this point. Still need two rotisseries. Hopefully those books have all kinds of suspension and chassis ideas swimming in your head.

 

The oil pickup is interesting. As long as you have enough capacity and a good place to draw from it should work well. Should be a bit cheaper than the low profile steel pan I've got to buy and you get to keep the structural aluminum part.

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If capacity is a little low you can always use an accusump. I have one here for my Jeep if you want to see it. They have the benefit of pre-lubing your engine (and turbo bearings in your case) if set up right along with 1.5 to 3 or more extra quarts and pressure buffer in high G manuevers.

 

Food for thought...

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I'm thinking if cutting if and tapping/welding a -12 AN fitting where the sump starts, then centering the pickup box in the sump with a couple hinged baffles. I made a cardboard template to put a baffle plate across the top of the sump as well to help with oil trying to flow forward as well.

 

As for windage screen there isn't one, I figured some milodon screen material or something from Ipaco should work. I have pictures from a buddy where he just had someone change the pan to a front sump and created a windage screen. I'll find them and attach them.

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So I'm kind of bouncing around on focus right now, but I'm also away from the car so my mind is wandering. I've got the bellhousing ordered for the transmission, feelers out on a couple different flywheel clutch combos, most the parts and design figured out for a rotisserie and today I think I finalized plans for the oil pan sump and pickup.

I got most of a baffle plate to keep oil in the sump figured out before leaving home today (sorry forgot to take picks of the C.A.D. template), and I sent 440source an email about a couple pickup screen boxes they make. The attached picture shows two options they offer at very reasonable prices. If the steel one will fit in the space I measured I should be able to modify the pickup and use a combination of AN fittings and 3/4" tubing to hook it all together. This should allow me to ditch the stock lower steel oil pan, gain about 3-4" ground clearance, and put some baffles around the pickup.

The attached oil pan photos are not mine but show pretty well what I'm dealing with. The last picture shows the stock cast-in pick up tube from the under side of the pan, it actually runs all the way to the back of the block and is closed off on both ends with freezer plugs.

This one shows the windage tray: Edited by jpndave

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I've played with it a little, really need to study out the air flow requirements for my power goals and go from there. I could easily big single it and hit 600+, but I want it to spool pretty quick and be a little street friendly. Can't have your cake and eat it I know, a small amount of lag will definitely help with driving it on the street, but let's be honest, racecar...

Edited by 1969honda

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Ordered the gold pickup box today from 440source.com, rep said it measures 1.75" tall by 3.5" wide on the side the port is on and 4" on the non port side. With the port it should be about 4" x 4". Once it gets here I've got a plan to cut the stock pickup and either tap or press fit a fitting in (and tack in place). Then I'll bend up a new 3/4" tube to attach the box and finish my sump baffles and a baffle plate across the top above the pickup.

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Here is the 440source box that came in a week or so ago, great piece for only $15.  It's a total of 4" by 3.5" with the -12 AN port.

 

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I ended up cutting off about 1" of the factory cast pickup and tapped it for a 1/2" NPT thread.  I sprayed the top of the pickup box with some machinist blue, scribed an outline of what was left of the engine side of the cast pickup from above onto the new gold pickup box, and then drilled about a 7/8" hole in the top (I used a 3/4" carbide cutter and filled to fit).   After that I installed a 1-1/2" long 1/2" NPT pipe nipple and slid the box down onto the nipple and leveled the standoff feet with the bottom plate flange. I had to trim the nipple about an 1/8" once it was all in and pickup height was set at just shy of 0.400" above the flange.  When I measure my stock pickup height from the bottom plate flange and the depth of the stock lower sump I came up with pretty close too 7/16".  It was hard to get exact with the bubble of screen welded on the stock pickup tube but, I should be really close to stock pickup height once I have the lower plate bolted in place though.

 

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I also cut the -12 AN port off the side of the box making it now 3" x 3.5" and welded it up with a piece of 1" bar stock.  Next I used a cut off wheel on my die grinder and carefully cut the welds holding the screen so I could remove it and tacked the pickup box to the pipe nipple once it was squared and held level with the bottom plate flange.

 

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The screen was a little trickier to tack back in place because the box and screen were both only about .040" thick, and the welder I had access to was a big Miller 212 running .035" wire. It will do the job though and none of the gaps between the screen and box were bigger than the screen holes.

 

I also took the hole pictured below and opened it up more than what is shown here, the block oil drain back hole empties directly above this, and without the steel lower pan it only had about 1/16-1/8' clearance from the bottom plate flange.  I actually slotted it up the side vertically about 3/4" and drilled two drain holes in the ribbing you can see in the picture as well.  The ribbing actually has two identical troughs on the top side, with no drains, about 3/8"-1/2" deep.  The slot and drain holes where then filed/sanded and radius as much as possible to promote oil transfer to the sump.

 

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Next is to get some trap door baffles and build a few walls on the sides of the pickup box, at least one flap above and to the front of the pickup, and hopefully that will keep the majority of the oil in the sump surrounding the pickup.

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Oh I thought about pestering you to weld that up! Someone else had the welder already out and sitting next to my bench that morning when I finished marking and drilling the pickup box.

 

Once I get my trapdoors and finalize the layout I'll run over and let you burn them together. After your house is done I'll harass you to teach me too

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