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LS1 240 mounts (facts not opinion???)


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I guess I am at a loss why people are looking elsewhere unless there is a significant cost savings.  I don't understand the comment about a kit not having it all.   Let's spell out what you get with the JCI kit:

 

  • Proven installs across all S30s (240z, 260z and 280z).
  • Install issues, are as trackzpeed said, due to a tire chassis not the kit.  The transmission mount just fits between the rails on a 240z.  The driver side engine mount uses the stock cradle and as such the cradle needs to be flawless.
  • The JCI kit comes with whatever you want: trans mount, engine mount, radiator, headers (yes, they have headers), driveshaft, etc.  Do yourself a favor and actually LOOK at the order list (http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm)
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Another question to throw a kink in this debate is long term if you want to go turbo. If you do then apparently the $50 custom mounts are the way to go when routing a downpipe from looking at the few turbo lsx z's I've seen. (If you're installing a standard rear exit exhaust that is)

 

And if you plan out well enough (I got lucky lol) then you could do what I did, I have never taken my engine out once. I bought the jci engine mount kit and installed the motor/trans. Fabbed up a trans x-member and done! 9k miles later its still screaming! JCI short headers (used) and engine mounts (new) are all I purchased for the swap from him.

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I guess I am at a loss why people are looking elsewhere unless there is a significant cost savings.  I don't understand the comment about a kit not having it all.   Let's spell out what you get with the JCI kit:

 

 

  • Proven installs across all S30s (240z, 260z and 280z).
  • Install issues, are as trackzpeed said, due to a tire chassis not the kit.  The transmission mount just fits between the rails on a 240z.  The driver side engine mount uses the stock cradle and as such the cradle needs to be flawless.
  • The JCI kit comes with whatever you want: trans mount, engine mount, radiator, headers (yes, they have headers), driveshaft, etc.  Do yourself a favor and actually LOOK at the order list (http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm)

True story. The more I investigate the more JCI comes out on top. Well designed, complete, priced fair, and well documented.

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I like the JCI stuff, the big seller for the CX is the exhaust.  JTR sell headers as does JCI but then the exhaust has to be finished, which can be expensive the complete exhaust almost justifies the whole kit cost.  In fact if I knew it was possible I would do the JCI engine mounts and he CX exhaust.  Yes it is single exit but that keeps the cost down too, no new tank, no redo of the rear valance.  Kind of have a budget on this one.  Car was 500, donor 2500 (my cap), install kit  CX is1600.  Misc 1000.  Trying to stay on the low end money wise.  I am not delusional, I know it always cost more but I did a complete restoration so I know what that cost.  It was just too good and rare to not restore.  Here is the yellow one.

 

IMGP0005-7.jpg

 

The plan with this one is to do everything I can myself and keep the cost way down.  R. 

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I like the JCI stuff, the big seller for the CX is the exhaust.  JTR sell headers as does JCI but then the exhaust has to be finished, which can be expensive the complete exhaust almost justifies the whole kit cost.  In fact if I knew it was possible I would do the JCI engine mounts and he CX exhaust.  Yes it is single exit but that keeps the cost down too, no new tank, no redo of the rear valance.  Kind of have a budget on this one.  Car was 500, donor 2500 (my cap), install kit  CX is1600.  Misc 1000.  Trying to stay on the low end money wise.  I am not delusional, I know it always cost more but I did a complete restoration so I know what that cost.  It was just too good and rare to not restore.  Here is the yellow one.

 

 

The plan with this one is to do everything I can myself and keep the cost way down.  R. 

 

I had typed up a response but after doing some more searching I see that CX offers a somewhat complete kit including exhaust.  What they do not apparently offer is a driveshaft, minor, but you'll still need one and that is around $250.  I see that you've budgeted $1600 for their kit, but you still need to pay for shipping which will be around $100.

 

Lastly, with their transmission mount configuration it appears that he exhaust will hang below the mount, thus eating up precious clear space.  I can tell you that I periodically scrape my exhaust at its lowest point, which is on the passenger side right by where the tunnel enters the bay.  The exhaust could not be tucked there and as such hangs a little lower (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107261-my-new-exhaust-pics-and-video-inside/)

 

I am not trying to convince you otherwise now, just pointing out some items.  Good luck with the installation and keep us informed!

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No offense taken in any way.  In fact:  Until the complete kit came available the JCI kit was where I was headed.  That with the JTR headers.  I think if you look closer at the CX trans mount it is in the tunnel and not below it.  The JCI I would bet is lower as it has to bridge the floor, it has reliefs for the exhaust. AND Not having seen either in person it is hard to tell from pix.  The Donor crapped out so still on the hunt.  Working on floor repair and Bad Dog parts starts next week when it thaws out a little around here.   We have a driveshaft shop in town and I have to have a SUBE flange anyway so the shaft would be custom anyway, it was in my 1000 misc which is probably not enough misc lol, just the DS and shipping and I am half way through it!  There are no silly questions and anyone who does not take advice from someone who has already done it is doomed to fail.  All good info.  

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The big downside of the JCI kit vs the CX is shorty headers vs long tubes. If you want a decent amount of NA power, those headers will constrict you quite a bit.

 

As for turbo routing on a JCI mount set? I've got two exhausts, one to the back and one out the side with mine. And I run a pretty powerful setup.

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CxR will sell any part of their kit by piece according to an email I got from them. I have been very interested in the cx kit as well but don't want to be the "test bed". Not super excited about the high mount alternator either but that can be fixed with a $200 + /- bracket.... I don't think the cx exhaust will work with jci mounts but it may work with dingo mounts. Really watching Ryan to see how his build comes along. I believe the cx complete kit is priced less complete versus pieced out for what it's worth. Sold my 5 speed today and putting up the z drive train soon for kit cash so hope to pull the trigger on a kit soon

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Well I have the full CX kit on the way. I post about the fitment with my LY6 when it's in.

Wow you move fast. That's great! Please post up your impressions and pics of the kit when it arrives. Do you know if it requires the high mount on the alternator? If it does, what are you using? Dingo has a billet bracket on sale for $150 that looks nice and should fit properly if needed. FWIW, when I look closely at cx install pics the drivers side mount may be able to be cut back (on the block) to use the f-body low mount but I don't know if the frame mount is still in the way.

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I have a truck motor (LY6) so I think it will be easy, but yea I too was looking at the mounts on the block and it seems you can cut off the front portion. I'm hoping that that will allow me to use the factory AC compressor on the passenger side which is definitely not possible with JCI.

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I have a truck motor (LY6) so I think it will be easy, but yea I too was looking at the mounts on the block and it seems you can cut off the front portion. I'm hoping that that will allow me to use the factory AC compressor on the passenger side which is definitely not possible with JCI.

No ac for me strictly a street legal track car..... I want it light fast and reliable. Keep us posted

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1 inch below cross member. Yes, 1/2" higher would give you a little more wiggle room between the crank pulley and the steering rack and the alternator and the steering rack. But, it would crowd you more on the hood latch. It's like threading a needle. The JCI mounts are great. If you want to do even better, clearance-wise, use the JCI mounts, use Corvette pan and an under drive pulley. Shave off the hood latch bracket and use hood pins.

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1 inch below cross member. Yes, 1/2" higher would give you a little more wiggle room between the crank pulley and the steering rack and the alternator and the steering rack. But, it would crowd you more on the hood latch. It's like threading a needle. The JCI mounts are great. If you want to do even better, clearance-wise, use the JCI mounts, use Corvette pan and an under drive pulley. Shave off the hood latch bracket and use hood pins.

 

Great thanks. I had researched the C6 pan was a little more than an inch shallower than the f-body but had never considered the underdrive pulley and hood pins.

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The more I stare at the cx kit on their site the more questions I have.... It bugs me that they don't have any complete install pics and it bugs me more when they show different parts (oil pans, etc) with their install. One of the pans is clearly a dry sump and the other appears to be of their ls1 pans from another kit both of which give me no reference to how a f-body pan and/or alternator (high or low mount) will work. The well documented and race tested JCI looks better all the time but damn I'm still interested the LT headers and full exhaust. Now I'm just frothing at the mouth......... Just my $.02

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