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VQ37VHR swap Questions *1974 Datsun Z

VQ37VHR Swap Datsun Z S30

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#1 rtodaro01

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 08:39 PM

I am in the middle of working on a VQ37VHR swap for a 1974 Datsun Z.  Fever Racing re-wired the motor to get rid of the NATS etc.  

I have a few questions if anyone can answer:

 

1) There are lots of vacuum lines and other crap on the top of the engine.  Given that it is a non-emissions car, is there anything I can get rid of, to clean up the engine bay?  diagram?

 

2)  I am removing the AC and PS.  I am also installing a Stillen under-drive pulley.  Can anyone suggest a configuration of the belts that would help me do this set up?

 

3) The wiring on this thing going to the ECU is huge.  Any ideas on a clean way to send these through the firewall?

 

 

4) any other thoughts or suggestions?

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Edited by rtodaro01, 07 November 2015 - 09:53 PM.


#2 dexter72

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Posted 08 November 2015 - 09:14 AM

Swap looks good so far, You may either need to find someone who has done this swap before or do more internet searching. Search for a/c delete. P.S. Delete posts.  Belt Vacuum lines and Hose info..

 

I would just add the Nissan/Infiniti engine cover to it, maybe paint it the color the car is going to be. It covers all of the hoses and lines up. If you want heat inside the car i would leave it alone. Smaller coolant hoses go to the Electronic throttle bodies. I would leave them connected.

 

Always a ton of searching for info when doing a custom build. The prize is when its driveable.

 

Are you using a stand alone ecu to control the advance for the HR cylinder heads ??..

 

For the wiring you could cut the large hole in the firewall to feed the harness through. Then make a cover that has a smaller hole and section taken out of it, screw the cover into the firewall. paint it yellow.

 

Enjoy your build



#3 redzedturbo

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Posted 08 November 2015 - 11:32 AM

That will be the sweetest sounding z ever PLEASE Keep it up and finish it.


Addicted to boost!

#4 duragg

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 12:10 PM

Sounds like we are in a similar spot.  I am doing a 35HR swap and just posted some pics this morning.

 

I am shit-canning all those vacuum and extra water lines.  Capping off for now, but I will build a spare engine and weld shut what I don't need.

 

I think my harness may bave been done by same people.  4 wires with tape on them?    I've done a lot of aircraft wiring before and down the road I will probably rebuild a spare harness also using this as a template.

 

Did Mack send you spacers for the mounts?  I have one on each side now.


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1973 S30 (Gutted & caged NASA ST3) 2252lbs (dry & vacant) / VQ35HR/ 4.375 CLSD R200 / GC-Koni doubles / 275 R7s / Safety is a priority.


#5 rtodaro01

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 11:12 PM

Sounds like we are in a similar spot.  I am doing a 35HR swap and just posted some pics this morning.

 

I am shit-canning all those vacuum and extra water lines.  Capping off for now, but I will build a spare engine and weld shut what I don't need.

 

I think my harness may bave been done by same people.  4 wires with tape on them?    I've done a lot of aircraft wiring before and down the road I will probably rebuild a spare harness also using this as a template.

 

Did Mack send you spacers for the mounts?  I have one on each side now.

1) I just started tearing into the engine and yeah half of those lines are coolant lines going to the darn throttle bodies.  You are capping those for now?  I am also not sure which vacuum lines that can be capped.

 

2) Zfever did my wiring.  I am taking off the harness now and seeing if I can revers feed it into the engine bay.  

 

3) I purchased the VQ swap kit about 1-2 years ago from McKinney.  It came with two little red poly mounts.  Are those what you are referring to?

 

If you find out any good info, please share it.  I would love to know how yours runs without all the crap.



#6 duragg

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 06:03 AM

Mack has spacer that go between the engine and his mount. They effectively move the mounts outboard which would cause the engine to move (down?) due to the angle on the frame. I used one on each side (he sent me 3).

I deleted all the coolant to TBs and only using vacuum for my booster resevoir.

I emailed you some harness data. I'm leaving mine all in the engine bay because of the tune switching cruise control feature of OSIRIS and by my classing rules I cannot have cockpit access to that.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1973 S30 (Gutted & caged NASA ST3) 2252lbs (dry & vacant) / VQ35HR/ 4.375 CLSD R200 / GC-Koni doubles / 275 R7s / Safety is a priority.


#7 EMWHYR0HEN

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 07:11 AM

Get yourself a factory service manual. You'll have access to all the emissions/vacuum diagrams as well as wiring diagrams.

I had to remove some unused wires and reconfigure the looms to get everything to fit right.

 

For reference, here's all that I removed. IMG_2040.JPG

 

Does the HR use a serpentine belt? if not just remove the PS/AC and find a smaller belt. 


Edited by EMWHYR0HEN, 10 November 2015 - 07:18 AM.

"If you are under control you're going too slow." -Parnelli Jones

#8 docaam

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 01:48 AM

Looking forward to the outcome



#9 budgy

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 09:46 AM

Props to you for attempting the VQ37HR, I am not even sure if there is a standalone that can run the intake valve control on this engine. I heard the TB is always open all the time so I do not even know why they run coolant through the damn thing in the first place. The intake air flow is controlled by the opening of the intake valves. Its this complexity that makes me think a VQ35HR would be an easier compromise. 



#10 rtodaro01

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 09:49 AM

Budgy - thanks for the reply



#11 MREDDLE

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 02:49 PM

Well done.  Hope all goes well.  Cant wait to see this run.



#12 Zetsaz

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 09:48 AM

I was wondering if someone had considered this. Definitely not easy. As far as the factory service manuals are concerned, the myG37 forums have them stickied somewhere or I can send you the one I have when I get home tomorrow. Hope to see this thing in action sometime!

#13 budgy

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Posted 13 July 2016 - 03:16 PM

Blew my stroker build chasing down a 993 Porsche Turbo on the track a couple weeks ago. Was thinking of doing a VQ35HR as I knew the VQ37HR is more challenging due to the intake system control. I would strongly suggest getting in touch with Z-Fever out of Florida, the VQ37HR stuff is not on their website but they can modify the harness to work and probably save you a ton of time. Once I knew they got it working with factory ECU I decided on VQ37HR as well, more power and more plentiful to find replacement engines if you ever have issues. 

 

Good luck! 



#14 budgy

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 01:56 PM

1) I just started tearing into the engine and yeah half of those lines are coolant lines going to the darn throttle bodies.  You are capping those for now?  I am also not sure which vacuum lines that can be capped.

 

2) Zfever did my wiring.  I am taking off the harness now and seeing if I can revers feed it into the engine bay.  

 

3) I purchased the VQ swap kit about 1-2 years ago from McKinney.  It came with two little red poly mounts.  Are those what you are referring to?

 

If you find out any good info, please share it.  I would love to know how yours runs without all the crap.

Not sure you found the  answers you need on those coolant lines but you can bypass the throttle bodies rather than routing the coolant through them instead would be better than 'capping' the lines that will almost always spring a leak. Just have the lines connect to each other directly rather than 'through' the throttle bodies. You can still remove some of the excess lines, have the added benefit of a potentially colder inlet air and no chance of a leak. I would be a little concerned about welding shut the coolant passage on the engine itself as on a modern aluminum engine a ton of R & D is done on effective coolant flow to reduce hot and cold spots in the engine. My concern is if the flow was somehow changed it could warp the block over time...maybe I am being paranoid. 


Edited by budgy, 26 August 2016 - 01:56 PM.





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