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Makaofox 2jz NA-T swap

2jz na-t 2jzge 350z trans

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#1 makaofox

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Posted 19 July 2016 - 03:57 PM

So after about 4 years of collecting parts, im finally ready to do the swap! Been driving the car a few years as an L28 and it was really fun. Got to learn the car and really appreciate the L-series motor. Kinda wish I had more than one z so I could listen to the L28 roar on the highway. So in December pulled the motor and right around April-May I started working on the car full force daily.

 

So some details:
2jzge from a 94 supra, head had burnt up valves and got the whole motor and wiring harness for $500
NA-T swap is very simple Twin turbo head gasket oem is perfect, ARP head studs and drill hole in oil pan for turbo return as well as get oil feed from the oil filter union bolt. Simple enough really. I have other threads about the swap and some basic info.

 

So using a 350z trans, Collins adapters for clutch,  OEM TT headgasket, ebay china turbo manifold, front facing manifold I got from a local, ARP headstuds, custom front mount intercool from a local, tial wastegate and BOV, Holset HE351cw turbo, 1000cc injector dynamics injectors,custom mounts that use the stock motor mounts, wiring specialties harness, AEM V1 ecu, and 17gallon fuel cell with -6an feed and return lines.

 

Had to get rid of the log manifold just didnt work with my turbo it was hitting the strut tower.

 

Much more progress needed. Like fitting the new ebay mani once its in. installing trans mount and welding it up . plus test fitting it again. Waiting for my injectors, fuel rail, some gaskets, and it should be going together within the next few weeks.

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#2 makaofox

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 04:10 PM

Small update.

Good friend came over and we started making the trans mount. He needs to finish tigging it up. 

 

Realized I routed the fuel lines on the pass side, when they should be on the driver side or on the top of trans tunnel. That poses an issue because of the exhaust being in that area.

 

Also with the motor in, my clutch line will need to be relocated to the driver side. The 350z trans has the slave cylinder on the driver side, and the 2jz motor has the starter on the driver side.

 

Brake lines may need to be rerouted to keep away from the turbo and exhaust. Will for sure be using heat reflective materials on the firewall and lines. 

 

Tons of little nick nacks left to order still.



#3 dexter72

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 05:44 PM

Looks good so far, A couple of questions ??.. 

 

Did you block off the egr port under the plate, at the rear of the cylinder head ??.. If not you will have exhaust heat running to the intake manifold..

 

Are you going to do the ribbed idler puller swap??. 

 

Have you thought about using a shorter throttle body ??..



#4 makaofox

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 06:02 PM

I did not, im going to block it off. I kinda forgot about that, good catch dexter!

 

I went with the ribbed pulley, all I had to do is grind the tensioner so the bearing can spin freely. Really simple I have the belt and pulley pics if its possible to piece it together cheaper than the kit. 

 

Looking at the throttle body I would like to go shorter. It also seems I need to angle it just a smidge downward. Know of a shorter throttle body with same bolt pattern? I saw china ebay 4in and the Q45 one.



#5 dexter72

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 09:59 AM

No problem man, just lending a hand,  all you have to do is get the ribbed pulley n grind the tensioner a tad,  bolt it on and get the shorter belt. That's if your not trying to have a/c or Power steering. lol

 

I used a Throttle body off of a Ls400 non traction control car.. I was looking at those Ebay ones before i decided on the Ls400 one.. I may swap that over to an even shorter/smaller one, i pulled off of a Ford Crown Vic. I have been thinking for a long time that a 2j with a huge log intake, doesn't need a large throttle body.  You can try to make an angle piece for the throttle body or find an intake boot that has a nice angle to it...

 

I have a lot of pics in my Na-t build thread.



#6 makaofox

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 04:01 PM

Its a race car its not gonna have A/C. power steering or heat lol. I plan to buy another z eventually and leave that one reasonable. 

 

I spent time today making the the exhaust side of the egr block off. Its very ugly but functional. Even welded a bolt to prevent any exhaust from creating turbulence.

 

I'll look into the LS400 throttle body.

 

I'll also look into your build thread! 



#7 seattlejester

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Posted 25 July 2016 - 05:15 PM

I am flabbergasted that that intake actually fit. I was sure you were going to have problems!

 

Congrats on finally getting that beast in the engine bay. Keep us updated.

 

I ran my fuel lines along the passenger side, it sits above the exhaust but so far haven't had any problems. In hind sight if I had the option I would pull it to the driver side, closer to the fuel rail and away form the exhaust, win win.



#8 makaofox

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Posted 25 July 2016 - 06:54 PM

Haha its a big mother lover but she fits! Craigslist steal got it for $100 ;)

 

Yea right now working on the brake lines moving them out the way from where the down pipe and exhaust will be routed. 

 

Got my exhaust manifold in, turbo looks to fit but have to clock it about 90* and weld on a T3 adapter.



#9 makaofox

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Posted 05 August 2016 - 04:30 PM

So clocked my turbo and used one of the turbo adapters. It sits way to high now, I have about 3 adapters. So im going to use this lower profile adapter and make it work, it needs to be drilled out and tapped for M10 bolts. Kind of a pain using t4 manifolds with a bottom mound turbo but its going to be worth it.

 

Routed my fuel lines to the driver side and rerouted my brake lines. Front over the cross member and the rear had to make a new line and relocate the proportioning valve. Still in the process, its a huge pain making sure it doesnt hit anything. 

 

Got the clutch on. I destroyed the pilot bushing because my dumb self tried to get it flush (which it doesnt need to be) and mushroomed the bushing badly. Paid $75 for another one :/ But came in today and got the clutch and flywheel in easy. 

 

Friend welded my trans mount and probably wednesday going to drop the motor in for good with the trans.

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#10 Exposed

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 07:51 AM

that gas tank looks good, I was planning on doing something similar to that. Where did you buy that tank and what brand is it?



#11 makaofox

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 08:17 AM

It was the only fuel cell with a similar shape to the stock tank. I didnt want to cut the spare tire well and take away space for storage, I still cut the well but I kept the space. Its perfect for me being so low this tank is tucked up, I actually have about 2in of space to go up as well. http://www.rhodesracecars.com its a pro-series tank. Doesnt have baffling so brought fuel cell foam which was a pain but its a well built tank for cheap. The straps it comes with I didnt like, so made some from 2in flat bar.  

 

17gal tank should be able to go on long trips no problem! 



#12 Exposed

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 01:55 PM

yup 17 gal is plenty. Whats your plan as far as the shifter goes?



#13 makaofox

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 07:58 AM

Using this oem modified short shifter. I forgot the site but it said reduces throw by 30% and its oem. I brought austin hoke's shifter relocator kit and then I just shortened the linkage.



#14 makaofox

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Posted 21 August 2016 - 01:03 PM

Small update:

Small things have been slowing me down. Like 3in tbolt clamps I ordered didnt really fit over the couplers lol. Ordered a bunch of parts and impatiently waiting for them. While i was at it I figured the gte throttle body was too long. So I have to modify my intake manifold flange, so while I was at it I ordered a very clean Q45 throttle body and TPS and I will cut the current flange off and angle it down some to work. 

 

Still have lots to do.



#15 makaofox

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Posted 11 September 2016 - 01:20 PM

Tuesday taking the intake parts to get welded up.

 

Then the motor is basically done. Needs little things like throttle cable, oils/ coolant, brake lines bleed and fitted.

 

Been working on the speed hut gauges, pretty simple stuff. Attempted to fix my dash from the cracks it had. Used a combination of foam with bumper repair bondo. The bumper bondo is better than regular bondo, so we will see how long it lasts without cracking again. I have a dash mat so it may last longer.



#16 makaofox

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 01:15 PM

Manifold was welded up and intake pipes done. Wastegate flange had an unfortunate night, snapped two taps (harbor freight at that womp) and ended up cutting a corner off and welding in a stud. 
 

Dash still has to be installed, need to make a small plate to put the wide band gauge, boost and volts. 

 

Started working on my wiring harness and I wanted it by the stock ecu area but the wire was too much so found a better spot! I deleted the A/C, which I never used o had. I also deleted my heater core/ blower since it was blocked off previously. Only assumption is because it was leaking. Looking into getting an electric defogger and just use that. Im not worried about the heat or the cold.

 

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#17 seattlejester

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 04:17 PM

Any ideas on what you are are planning on for a defogger? I had some ideas floating around, but nothing that seemed like it might work decently and wouldn't use a butt load of amps.



#18 makaofox

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 06:44 PM

Well to start I was going to use rainx. They have an anti-fog spray bottle that will help reduce fog. They also have a sponge that wipes away fog. All those things arent that expensive. I also plan to keep some rice in the car to prevent any moisture build up and causing more rust. Eventually ill have to get heat or something. Those shit box heater things from autozone arent that bad but will burn up the socket eventually. 



#19 seattlejester

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 03:23 PM

That was what I figured, I bought a couple of them to see if I could wire them up with a breaker, but I fear the amperage would just get out of hand to have it do enough to be effective. They do have heated windshields, but shipping from the UK is pretty pricey. 



#20 grayson260z

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 05:53 AM

Digging your build thus far. Looking forward to your updates and hopefully getting started on my JZ swap

Why didnt the Z just have wooden floorboards so we could just cut new ones every 20 years or so?






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