Jump to content
HybridZ
makaofox

Makaofox 2jz NA-T swap

Recommended Posts

So after about 4 years of collecting parts, im finally ready to do the swap! Been driving the car a few years as an L28 and it was really fun. Got to learn the car and really appreciate the L-series motor. Kinda wish I had more than one z so I could listen to the L28 roar on the highway. So in December pulled the motor and right around April-May I started working on the car full force daily.

 

So some details:
2jzge from a 94 supra, head had burnt up valves and got the whole motor and wiring harness for $500
NA-T swap is very simple Twin turbo head gasket oem is perfect, ARP head studs and drill hole in oil pan for turbo return as well as get oil feed from the oil filter union bolt. Simple enough really. I have other threads about the swap and some basic info.

 

So using a 350z trans, Collins adapters for clutch,  OEM TT headgasket, ebay china turbo manifold, front facing manifold I got from a local, ARP headstuds, custom front mount intercool from a local, tial wastegate and BOV, Holset HE351cw turbo, 1000cc injector dynamics injectors,custom mounts that use the stock motor mounts, wiring specialties harness, AEM V1 ecu, and 17gallon fuel cell with -6an feed and return lines.

 

Had to get rid of the log manifold just didnt work with my turbo it was hitting the strut tower.

 

Much more progress needed. Like fitting the new ebay mani once its in. installing trans mount and welding it up . plus test fitting it again. Waiting for my injectors, fuel rail, some gaskets, and it should be going together within the next few weeks.

post-13572-0-67063000-1468972274_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-91710200-1468972315_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-46880000-1468972371_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-43440300-1468972373_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-30640700-1468972375_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-89760900-1468972376_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-41081200-1468972378_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-04881500-1468972380_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-62441800-1468972381_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-04402000-1468972383_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-85362300-1468972384_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-01730100-1468972429_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-99850400-1468972430_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-62090700-1468972432_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-16531000-1468972434_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-75651300-1468972435_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-47251600-1468972437_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-17291900-1468972439_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-85772200-1468972440_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-32412400-1468972442_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-79052700-1468972443_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-24216300-1468972464_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-39496700-1468972466_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-40737000-1468972468_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-09217300-1468972470_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-87057600-1468972471_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-66457900-1468972473_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-25578200-1468972475_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-80018500-1468972476_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-37578800-1468972478_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-93579000-1468972479_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-79340900-1468972490_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-71061500-1468972493_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-39541700-1468972495_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-18942100-1468972497_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-87422400-1468972498_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-98182600-1468972499_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update.

Good friend came over and we started making the trans mount. He needs to finish tigging it up. 

 

Realized I routed the fuel lines on the pass side, when they should be on the driver side or on the top of trans tunnel. That poses an issue because of the exhaust being in that area.

 

Also with the motor in, my clutch line will need to be relocated to the driver side. The 350z trans has the slave cylinder on the driver side, and the 2jz motor has the starter on the driver side.

 

Brake lines may need to be rerouted to keep away from the turbo and exhaust. Will for sure be using heat reflective materials on the firewall and lines. 

 

Tons of little nick nacks left to order still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good so far, A couple of questions ??.. 

 

Did you block off the egr port under the plate, at the rear of the cylinder head ??.. If not you will have exhaust heat running to the intake manifold..

 

Are you going to do the ribbed idler puller swap??. 

 

Have you thought about using a shorter throttle body ??..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not, im going to block it off. I kinda forgot about that, good catch dexter!

 

I went with the ribbed pulley, all I had to do is grind the tensioner so the bearing can spin freely. Really simple I have the belt and pulley pics if its possible to piece it together cheaper than the kit. 

 

Looking at the throttle body I would like to go shorter. It also seems I need to angle it just a smidge downward. Know of a shorter throttle body with same bolt pattern? I saw china ebay 4in and the Q45 one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem man, just lending a hand,  all you have to do is get the ribbed pulley n grind the tensioner a tad,  bolt it on and get the shorter belt. That's if your not trying to have a/c or Power steering. lol

 

I used a Throttle body off of a Ls400 non traction control car.. I was looking at those Ebay ones before i decided on the Ls400 one.. I may swap that over to an even shorter/smaller one, i pulled off of a Ford Crown Vic. I have been thinking for a long time that a 2j with a huge log intake, doesn't need a large throttle body.  You can try to make an angle piece for the throttle body or find an intake boot that has a nice angle to it...

 

I have a lot of pics in my Na-t build thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its a race car its not gonna have A/C. power steering or heat lol. I plan to buy another z eventually and leave that one reasonable. 

 

I spent time today making the the exhaust side of the egr block off. Its very ugly but functional. Even welded a bolt to prevent any exhaust from creating turbulence.

 

I'll look into the LS400 throttle body.

 

I'll also look into your build thread! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am flabbergasted that that intake actually fit. I was sure you were going to have problems!

 

Congrats on finally getting that beast in the engine bay. Keep us updated.

 

I ran my fuel lines along the passenger side, it sits above the exhaust but so far haven't had any problems. In hind sight if I had the option I would pull it to the driver side, closer to the fuel rail and away form the exhaust, win win.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha its a big mother lover but she fits! Craigslist steal got it for $100 ;)

 

Yea right now working on the brake lines moving them out the way from where the down pipe and exhaust will be routed. 

 

Got my exhaust manifold in, turbo looks to fit but have to clock it about 90* and weld on a T3 adapter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So clocked my turbo and used one of the turbo adapters. It sits way to high now, I have about 3 adapters. So im going to use this lower profile adapter and make it work, it needs to be drilled out and tapped for M10 bolts. Kind of a pain using t4 manifolds with a bottom mound turbo but its going to be worth it.

 

Routed my fuel lines to the driver side and rerouted my brake lines. Front over the cross member and the rear had to make a new line and relocate the proportioning valve. Still in the process, its a huge pain making sure it doesnt hit anything. 

 

Got the clutch on. I destroyed the pilot bushing because my dumb self tried to get it flush (which it doesnt need to be) and mushroomed the bushing badly. Paid $75 for another one :/ But came in today and got the clutch and flywheel in easy. 

 

Friend welded my trans mount and probably wednesday going to drop the motor in for good with the trans.

post-13572-0-99643900-1470443419_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-96767000-1470443437_thumb.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was the only fuel cell with a similar shape to the stock tank. I didnt want to cut the spare tire well and take away space for storage, I still cut the well but I kept the space. Its perfect for me being so low this tank is tucked up, I actually have about 2in of space to go up as well. http://www.rhodesracecars.com its a pro-series tank. Doesnt have baffling so brought fuel cell foam which was a pain but its a well built tank for cheap. The straps it comes with I didnt like, so made some from 2in flat bar.  

 

17gal tank should be able to go on long trips no problem! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update:

Small things have been slowing me down. Like 3in tbolt clamps I ordered didnt really fit over the couplers lol. Ordered a bunch of parts and impatiently waiting for them. While i was at it I figured the gte throttle body was too long. So I have to modify my intake manifold flange, so while I was at it I ordered a very clean Q45 throttle body and TPS and I will cut the current flange off and angle it down some to work. 

 

Still have lots to do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tuesday taking the intake parts to get welded up.

 

Then the motor is basically done. Needs little things like throttle cable, oils/ coolant, brake lines bleed and fitted.

 

Been working on the speed hut gauges, pretty simple stuff. Attempted to fix my dash from the cracks it had. Used a combination of foam with bumper repair bondo. The bumper bondo is better than regular bondo, so we will see how long it lasts without cracking again. I have a dash mat so it may last longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Manifold was welded up and intake pipes done. Wastegate flange had an unfortunate night, snapped two taps (harbor freight at that womp) and ended up cutting a corner off and welding in a stud. 
 

Dash still has to be installed, need to make a small plate to put the wide band gauge, boost and volts. 

 

Started working on my wiring harness and I wanted it by the stock ecu area but the wire was too much so found a better spot! I deleted the A/C, which I never used o had. I also deleted my heater core/ blower since it was blocked off previously. Only assumption is because it was leaking. Looking into getting an electric defogger and just use that. Im not worried about the heat or the cold.

 

post-13572-0-84837900-1474233252_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-45198500-1474233256_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-53599600-1474233262_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-82760200-1474233265_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-67921000-1474233270_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-62761500-1474233273_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-32322400-1474233278_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-72403000-1474233281_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-93443900-1474233286_thumb.jpg

post-13572-0-25724500-1474233290_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well to start I was going to use rainx. They have an anti-fog spray bottle that will help reduce fog. They also have a sponge that wipes away fog. All those things arent that expensive. I also plan to keep some rice in the car to prevent any moisture build up and causing more rust. Eventually ill have to get heat or something. Those shit box heater things from autozone arent that bad but will burn up the socket eventually. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was what I figured, I bought a couple of them to see if I could wire them up with a breaker, but I fear the amperage would just get out of hand to have it do enough to be effective. They do have heated windshields, but shipping from the UK is pretty pricey. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did see the ones from the UK. Saw this old vintage way of defrosting CASCO VINTAGE WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER UNIT "SLUSHBUSTER" L726. pretty neat and its kind of cheap. Going to continue searching.

 

Thanks Grayson. Just did wrinkle coat on my intake manifold, came out shitty but overall im happy with it. Apparently wrinkle coat has heat dispersion capabilities that also looks nice! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another update:

 

I made the down pipe and exhaust. Heat wrap sucks! But needed to be done. Working on throttle cable which isnt difficult but dont have the right style of fitting to fit on the throttle body. Wiring is hooked up. 

 

Anyone have experience with Boost controller Prosec? Curious the mac valve has 3 ports. I used 2 one for pressure ie turbo or manifold and one for wastegate. This leaves one port open and its a 1/8pt which isnt in stores. So do I leave that port open or block it off? The instructions dont clearify? Unless I missed it.

 

Also experiencing wiring issues in my 76 if anyone has any input. My issue is I have constant power with no key on. My gauges turn and stay on, but have no back light even with lights on, my car wants to crank over when the battery positive terminal is connected. Also not sure if its an issue yet but I didnt hear fuel pump prime and the ecu Aem v1 wont connect to laptop. Those issues may go away when the constant power is resolved but not sure where to start. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Created another topic to focus on my wiring woes. Another bad day fuel injectors leak! Seems like I ordered 11mm tops when I should have gotten 14mm so fuel ruined my nice valve cover paint, but it didnt ruin the wrinkle coat!  Atleast the motor doesnt want to crank over. Moved the wire to the correct spot and its good now. 

 

Worked on the throttle cable just have to get some brackets and bolt it in. I couldnt find a T style ferrule so I modded the bolt it came with and gorilla glued the wire to it. I think it should hold it said impact tough lol. We shall see.

 

Still waiting for my drive shaft from drive shaft shop, hopefully comes in this week. 

 

On the small list to do:

 

Bleed brakes

bleed clutch

add transmission oil

add coolant

wire vacuum lines to greedy profec, wastegate, and BOV

fix fuel leaks, saw one by fuel pump, crush washer probably isnt tight enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×