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joa_taste

1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

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Oh, that's good to hear. I was kind of thinking that I needed to go stare at the wall of rad hoses at the parts store to come up with something.

 

V-mount in theory sounds good, but without much movement they struggle from what I have heard. Having a massive vent in the scoop that is functional would be pretty sweet!

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The radiator should work. I think I've seen people run stock Rads for this? but im not sure

 

This is definitely on the parts list for when the car is almost done.. Or maybe when the wiring guy has the car I can buy this as a christmas present to myself lol

 

post-22336-0-36365800-1479878684.jpg

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152021488865?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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The radiator should work. I think I've seen people run stock Rads for this? but im not sure

 

This is definitely on the parts list for when the car is almost done.. Or maybe when the wiring guy has the car I can buy this as a christmas present to myself lol

 

attachicon.gifpost-22336-0-37994600-1478753546_thumb.jpg

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152021488865?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I used a 3 row Datsun Champion radiator and it used the stock toyota Rad hoses from a 93+ supra. Works great at 12 psi!

 

http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-280z-radiator-1975-1978

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I used a 3 row Datsun Champion radiator and it used the stock toyota Rad hoses from a 93+ supra. Works great at 12 psi!

 

http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-280z-radiator-1975-1978

Sweet. If the one i used for the l26 doesn't work then ill check the champion one out.  Greeko if you don't mind me asking what throttle cable you used for your swap. I've read that the rx7 fb works but I was just wondering what you went with.

 

 

UPDATE

 

 

So I had contacted a buddy of mine, to see about doing my driveshaft. He said he would do the whole drivetrain for me. Replace the r180 with the OBX LSD R200 that I had been working on in a previous post. 

Also the thought came up about welding the two driveshafts together (Aisin Ar5 to the Datsun yoke), and taking it to get balanced. By the way the buddy of mine is a nice guy, and an absolute Datsun Guru. If you're in the Vegas area and need help with anything datsun related look him up (Johnson's Automotive) Has a really nice Yellow 260z thats in pristine condition. He was talking about doing a Datsun meet every 3rd weekend of the month. 

 

First time the car has seen daylight in a couple months. It was nice to see it somewhere other than the garage. :D

post-22336-0-22816200-1480096877_thumb.jpg

 

Looking over the whole area of how long the driveshaft would need to be. It doesn't look like i need to get my driveshaft extended too much, maybe 6-7 inches. If the diameter of the Aisin ar5 and the datsun driveshafts are the same all i would need to do is weld and get it balanced. But Since i don't have the driveshaft from the Aisin Ar5 as of yet, its going to be the waiting game. I did however order it online, hopefully it gets here soon. Hopefully beginning of next week.  

 

Im still wondering what EMS i should go with Apexi power fc D-jetro or AEM V2...Im really leaning towards the AEM V2. But idk, that will be the absolute last thing I buy.

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Sweet moving along.

 

Please keep us updated with if you end up dropping your engine via slotting the mounts. I just bolted in my bell housing and am working on my last seal, would be nice to know what to expect.

 

Careful with balancing welded drive shafts, I thought a rattle I had at 40 was from something else until I had a new drive shaft made. Notoriously difficult to balance if there is even a slight bit of angle in the tube.

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Sweet moving along.

 

Please keep us updated with if you end up dropping your engine via slotting the mounts. I just bolted in my bell housing and am working on my last seal, would be nice to know what to expect.

 

Careful with balancing welded drive shafts, I thought a rattle I had at 40 was from something else until I had a new drive shaft made. Notoriously difficult to balance if there is even a slight bit of angle in the tube.

 

 I will definitely let you know brutha. Im interested to see how the mounts rack up when its in motion.

 

Everything is being done at a friend of a friends driveshaft shop. Hopefully they do it right do it once type deal. Don't want to go backwards on anything. Ill give you guys updates. Currently waiting on the driveshaft(Aisin Ar5) and Mustache Bar from Techno toys

 

 

If you're looking towards an AEM unit, go with the infinity series. The features and capabilities of the unit make it well worth it.

 

Man that thing is pretty interesting. Expensive but interesting.

Edited by joa_taste

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Have you noticed how far the engine sits to the passenger side with the CX mounts? I was about to put my motor in and it would just be sittings so far off line that it would look wrong to me.

E9C2B859-9E9C-4F8A-B690-9CFC899BEECF_zps

 

Yes!!! Lol i thought the same exact thing.

It'll sit a little more to the left side when you put your car in. Looks funny but it clears. 

 

At first I thought maybe i messed up.

So i looked over a few of CxRacings swaps on google, i used the hood latch as a center point for the engine bay. 

They too have their motor a bit to the passenger side. I think this is because of the steering rack.

It'll make the Downpipe that much more fun to do lol.

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Fudge, I really don't like it when it looks like the motor is not lined up in the engine bay. Plus yea routing the exhaust will be a bit trickier and with my turbo manifold I should be close to the shock tower as is anyway, now I'll definitely be in the tower... 

 

You'll have to post up what your guy ends up doing. I looked up drift boss and he ended up moving the ears on the cross member from what it sounds like.

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Fudge, I really don't like it when it looks like the motor is not lined up in the engine bay. Plus yea routing the exhaust will be a bit trickier and with my turbo manifold I should be close to the shock tower as is anyway, now I'll definitely be in the tower... 

 

You'll have to post up what your guy ends up doing. I looked up drift boss and he ended up moving the ears on the cross member from what it sounds like.

I totally understand on that one.

 

I will let you know. Im still at a standstill with the driveshaft. I will find out tomorrow wtf is going on, I've been eager to get it back I have a lot of parts just sitting around waiting to be installed lol.

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Posted (edited)

UPDATE******

 

Sorry guys I know it seems like I haven't really posted much.

Im still waiting on my cars Driveshaft to be finished, Seems like its been a life time.

Im getting anxious. 

But really Ive just been buying parts for this thing so when I get it back, the wrenching will commence.

 

Over the little month of it being gone, i've purchased;

 

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-3" mandrel bends stainless steel (Exhaust Piping) for the downpipe

-Downpipe 1jz Flange

-Tomei turbo elbow (looked at future fab, but the way the motor is i didnt know about the angle the downpipe should go. the tomei is already flanged as well.)

-Exhaust wrapping.

( I think Exhaust downpipe will be the first thing i do. Not sure if i will do the whole exhaust...might as well right? Im thinking blast pipes like this would be something that would make the back of the car pop. Literally lol)

 

Example:

post-22336-0-45474400-1483913335_thumb.jpg

More than Likely won't be as big.

 

-An Rx-7 throttle cable First Gen FB3s ( I remember reading somewhere that someone used this. I'm kind of skeptical because it looks a little short, but when i get the car back, we will see.

-Intercooler. Went with a non name brand, but the measurements I needed to be precise, for it to be at somewhat an angle in front of how i have my Rad mounted. Might have my buddy do it since its already at his shop. Still wondering if I should do stainless steel or Aluminum as far as piping goes.

-Flex couplers

-My buddy had his old Tial BOV sitting around from his EG coupe so I bought that from him.

-Lastly the AEM Standalone from Driftmotion for the 1jz. 

I got really lucky on this one, just on a wim looked at eBay for this. Someone bought it didn't use it, and was selling it. Really cool guy, it even came with a patch harness.

 

Thats about it for now. Exposed did some speedhut gauges. That might be the next big purchase for this car. At first I wasn't planning to have running gauges, but thinking about it now if im going to get this tuned I will need a working speedometer/tach? plus I should want to watch over what the motor is doing since its so new I.E Oil pressure, coolant, etc etc etc. 

Edited by joa_taste

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Sweet. If the one i used for the l26 doesn't work then ill check the champion one out.  Greeko if you don't mind me asking what throttle cable you used for your swap. I've read that the rx7 fb works but I was just wondering what you went with.

 

 

UPDATE

 

 

So I had contacted a buddy of mine, to see about doing my driveshaft. He said he would do the whole drivetrain for me. Replace the r180 with the OBX LSD R200 that I had been working on in a previous post. 

Also the thought came up about welding the two driveshafts together (Aisin Ar5 to the Datsun yoke), and taking it to get balanced. By the way the buddy of mine is a nice guy, and an absolute Datsun Guru. If you're in the Vegas area and need help with anything datsun related look him up (Johnson's Automotive) Has a really nice Yellow 260z thats in pristine condition. He was talking about doing a Datsun meet every 3rd weekend of the month. 

 

First time the car has seen daylight in a couple months. It was nice to see it somewhere other than the garage. :D

attachicon.gifIMG_4804.jpg

 

Looking over the whole area of how long the driveshaft would need to be. It doesn't look like i need to get my driveshaft extended too much, maybe 6-7 inches. If the diameter of the Aisin ar5 and the datsun driveshafts are the same all i would need to do is weld and get it balanced. But Since i don't have the driveshaft from the Aisin Ar5 as of yet, its going to be the waiting game. I did however order it online, hopefully it gets here soon. Hopefully beginning of next week.  

 

Im still wondering what EMS i should go with Apexi power fc D-jetro or AEM V2...Im really leaning towards the AEM V2. But idk, that will be the absolute last thing I buy.

Sorry for the late reply. I used a Generic Lokar throttle cable and it Worked out great!

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I did find you get about another inch of travel on the plates if you invert them so the CX logo is facing the block and upside down. I'm tweaking mine, a spacer on the passenger side to move it over about 20mm and cutting and welding in the tabs in better position for the driver side. 

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UPDATE***

 

Finally back fellas. Sorry it took me so long, the driveshaft was so much more of a hassle than I thought.

 

 

post-22336-0-05999200-1486104943_thumb.jpg

Quick pic of my buddies shop here in Vegas.

The red one on the far left is a complete restore 240z of a customer of his, he wants to sell it for $22k

The Black one is his another 240z with the L28 N/A motor. He moved pretty quick with it, When i first seen this car a few months back it wasn't painted and not moving.

The middle one is the best looking....but I may be a bit bias lol 

This black one is a 260z he is selling for a customer, to pay for the white one. This white one is a L28et. Pretty cool pic, figured I would snap a quick pic for you guys.

 

Heres the driveshaft when It were out of the car. Sorry guys but the pic I took of the driveshaft assembled is kinda crappy looking 

post-22336-0-40517300-1486104932_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-69052300-1486105017_thumb.jpg

I think it came out really nice, and worth the wait. Can't wait until I see how it is in action.

 

Anyways on to the Update. Can't believe I hadn't touched this car in literally 2 months. 

 

On to the Goods, I've had this car maybe 24 hours and I've literally touched everywhere it feels lol.

Im sure I've said before that I've been accumulating parts as its been in the shop.

First thing I started was the Downpipe/Tomei turbo elbow. I bought a box of stainless steel misc. Mandrel bends and used two 90 degree bends. As I said earlier on this thread Its in kinda weird position on the exhaust side. Its a little tight.

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post-22336-0-54928900-1486104998_thumb.jpg

 

I taped my pipes together first and assembled the downpipe/elbow as if it were in the car. This took me a couple of tries cutting in 1/2" to 1" increments. This took me almost all day lol.

 

post-22336-0-46854400-1486105029_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-36125600-1486104979_thumb.jpg

 

Finished product

post-22336-0-49456700-1486105042_thumb.jpg

 

I wrapped the downpipe as well since I have my clutch line so close to that area. Also my air intake is in this same area, or will be, so I want to reduce some heat.

post-22336-0-30340500-1486105064_thumb.jpg

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post-22336-0-75709000-1486105112_thumb.jpg

 

 

Its a little low. so I might trim this when I get to the exhaust portion, we will see It looks really low since im in the driveway and there is an incline, but its about 3 inches off the ground. My car is also Low so Im a bit afraid this might be a issue later.

 

 

Next I moved to bleeding the clutch  

Im at a standstill on this one, I have tried many different ways trying to bleed this clutch, I've tried multiple ways on going about bleeding it. But it doesn't want to hold pressure. I first had my set up like this;

 

Clutch master 87' Landrover  > Oem hard clutch line  > Custom fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (This had a lot more slack than i wanted) > Clutch slave.

 

After thinking about distance in a power consumption point of view. I.E thinking that too much distance was between my master cylinder and slave, and maybe it would take forever to bleed I ditched this and went this route.

 

Clutch master 87' Landrover > Banjo 10mm fitting to -3 an fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (this distance is perfect, should've done this in the first place) > Clutch slave.

 

I was sure this would work. or atleast be easier to suss out the issues. Nothing. Im currently getting fluid from the master to the line to the slave, but im not getting any pressure. And of course there is no bleeder valve. 

 

I thought maybe I assembled the clutch incorrectly, but after putting the car in gear and not being able to move the Z makes me feel its assembled correctly. So I've put this on the back burner. Im going to hit the Saturn Sky forums and check what other people did. My worst fear is 

1. the slave is faulty

2. i assembled the Slave Incorrectly.

I.E having to pull the motor out to get to the interior of the tranny. Or taking the transmission off to get to the interior. It might be the Master.

 

Anyways. Next thing I was able to tackle before the end of my day was the Throttle cable. FB3S Rx7 part.

 

It was pretty straight forward. The time most spent was getting a firm enough grip on the line to give it enough tension to actually work. It works well. 

 

[attachment=90028:IMG_5567.jpg]

post-22336-0-87032000-1486105129_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-29433500-1486105138_thumb.jpg

 

 

So thats about where I am at the moment. My list got a little bit longer lol. Tomorrow I hope I find out the issue of bleeding that clutch. Ill choose from one of the things on the list tomorrow.

-IC piping Make Brackets

-Bleed Clutch (Sad Face)

-Fuel Feed + Return lines

-Radiator Hoses

-New turbo drain feed.

 

I've also added redoing the dash and Gauges which I don't have a Gaff Tape tab for lol

post-22336-0-01524300-1486105147_thumb.jpg

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Edited by joa_taste

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Congrats on progress.

 

Goodness gracious your floor/frame rails look pretty beat up lol, hopefully plans to address that in the future?

 

I thought I would surge ahead here, but seems like you are going to beat me to the first start up!

hahaha! I know man my floor pans are the epitome of holy. Any worse and Ill be flinstoning around haha.

The floor pans are definitely the next thing. Im really going for motor swap and Interior. Ive always loved a clean Interior.

 

how did your mounts come out? you like them better flipped around?

 

I went a few steps forward then back. Selling off my CD009 swap and going with a TR6060. So my car might be running this year...

 

Seeing this is motivation to brave the cold and get wrenching though.

Why do you want to let go of your CD? my friend with a 240sx says thats his favorite tranny he has ever used.

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hahaha! I know man my floor pans are the epitome of holy. Any worse and Ill be flinstoning around haha.

The floor pans are definitely the next thing. Im really going for motor swap and Interior. Ive always loved a clean Interior.

 

how did your mounts come out? you like them better flipped around?

 

Why do you want to let go of your CD? my friend with a 240sx says thats his favorite tranny he has ever used.

 

The clutch options are lacking, and the gearing is less than ideal now. Ironically if I kept the R200 long nose, its the exact same gearing as a 350Z. Using it in a 4.1 final equipped car though, and its kinda silly. The TR6060 should be more than capable of handling the power I'm making, and if not I can upgrade the guts, something you can't do on a CD box.

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Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit. 

 

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered. 

 

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

 

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.

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Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit.

 

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered.

 

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

 

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.

Very nice, I've been following your progress on the mounts. I'll be setting up my shell to receive components in a few weeks and see how I fare.

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Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit. 

 

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered. 

 

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

 

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.

Very nice bro! I like that you are able to use your stock exhaust system. Mine is going to be a little low lol. 

 

I miss my old wheels lol looks good man hopefully my car can get on the road soon too  :mellow:

Hopefully! gotta get that Z running brutha. I think i am taking your advice with the gauges lol.

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Update.

 

 

 

So I tackled a few things on my list. I don't know about you guys but when I do something new like make something, I end up running back and forth to the parts store.

Luckily I live 2 minutes away from multiple auto parts stores, and a Mcfaddendales.

Today wasn't so bad in that sense

 

Intercooler brackets.

 

So I ran to Home Depot, and stood there pondering how I would tackle this. 

My main focus was trying to keep the slant of the radiator, yet keeping it inside of a 28" x 14" measurement.

After going over multiple options in my head, I went with an easy L bracket 72" x 6" x 3".

I measured the slant of the radiator and the intercooler itself. seems to be about right.

 

post-22336-0-06787000-1486265324_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-38869500-1486265338_thumb.jpg

 

 

I trimmed down the L bracket to the size of the intercooler.

Then I made small brackets to bolt on the radiator to the intercooler. (I should've just welded this, but it works lol). I measured where the intercooler would sit compared to hood latches, and clearance. 

I did have it just a hair too high so I brought it down about a half inch to get it to clear the hood.

 

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My idea here is, run two 90 degree couplers to clear the hood latches and side rails.

This should put me in the right position for my piping, which I am waiting for.

 

 

Next I started doing the radiator piping. 

If I've learned anything from doing swaps its all about saving all parts and bolts of whatever you use or have used.

In this situation the hoses I had used on the L26 set up worked for the top.

 

post-22336-0-80324600-1486265611_thumb.jpg

 

As for the bottom the water neck and the stock radiator feed to water neck is a bit tricky.

So I need to order some aluminum piping and a few couplers. I will also buy a overflow reservoir.

post-22336-0-94910100-1486265554_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-32193700-1486265700_thumb.jpg

 

 

Gotta love the waiting game.

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Looking good man digging the progress. I have a 260 shell sitting on jackstands right now while I'm trying to decide what I wanna do with it. I also have a 2jzge in the shop disassembled I keep glancing at and sitting in the engine bay with the hoist. I'm still not completely decided what to do just that I know that I want a manual transmission, which is kinda keeping me from going LS so I don't have to buy a T56 lol. Awesome stuff though I'm glad the CXRacing mounts are starting to become a more viable option and we don't have to try and source an old Beta mount or build our own. A question though, how does the car handle and drive having the rad support cut out with that bar in between the frame rails? That frees up a ton of space

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