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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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The photo shows the fan duct folded up and held in place with 3" wide strap.   The strap is duct taped to fan body and the other end is velco attached to opposite side of fan.   





Extra grommets were added the area above the fan for more support.



When the curtain is open and aligned with the fan, it looks like this.





Once the fan is switched "on" , the incoming air pressure basically seals itself in the curtain wall.IMG_2769.thumb.JPG.68d282760d6bfff76268a1086cb23bb6.JPG


It works like those inflatable bounce houses for kids.   When finished using everything folds up nice and neat.

Edited by toolman

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Picked up four intake filters 20" x 20" and four exhaust filters 20" x 20".   Fabricated a metal frame out of some right angle  1/8" vertical shelve poles.



I hung a 10" strip of sheeting about 3" in front of the curtain cable by stapling to the ceiling.   The gap was necessary to allow  curtain movement but be close enough to seal the curtain to the ceiling.   With the fan running, you can see the fan pressure is sufficient to seal the curtains.


 Outside view -The garage door was lowered to the #1 exhaust filter frame and  #2  block off frame.  


IMG_2830.thumb.JPG.1d5541af18763f503e6c81c72ef7acc7.JPG     Inside view of exhaust filters


The booth airflow test consisted of hanging thin strips of plastic sheeting in the air to observe its movement.   As you can see, the test strip near inside exhaust filter  is being drawn against the filter-indicates sufficient airflow leaving the booth.



IMG_2805.thumb.JPG.e074e7d08edb94789eabc48ffcfcdac6.JPGThe outside test strip indicates outward airflow also.

After more testing, I found one of the exhaust filters had pushed out of the frame.   So I added some metal screen on the inside to stiffen the exhaust filters.   That seem to solve that problem.   I spent a little more than $200 of materials to build to this booth( mostly from Home Depot).    This booth suits my needs and requirements.   I hope you guys found its construction interesting.



   Added screen wire to stiffen the filters.









Edited by toolman
add pic and corrections

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Back to rust repair-on Left Rear Rocker Panel.   First pic shows all the dirt and rusted metal that was cut out.



Pic of area that was worked on.  What made this job harder was the rustproofing inside the panel.  Scrapping took most of off then removed the rest with lacquer thinner.  Then the area was sandblasted clean.   My new curtains helped as they kept the media spreading even further.




Rear view of repaired area.  Also, found additional rust on wheel housing.  Note-raised area above seat belt anchor bracket



 After sandblasting the area.



IMG_2870.thumb.JPG.05b1b92d8454e7b6d525a2deaa6b7224.JPGMade temp[ate for panel patch.



Note: the raised area had to be hammered formed.  This was necessary so the patch would not touch the seat belt reinforcement  plate.  The factory plate has similar raised area.   I also made the wheel housing side one piece to prevent  future leakage.


IMG_2885.thumb.JPG.58425acd6abb55a595e310eb89f9bb05.JPGPatched the wheel housing area,


I drilled a 1" hole near the seat belt bracket so I can rustproof this area after painting the car.   240Z  usually had corrosion problems on front

and rear of left/right rocker panels.   I think more though rustproofing and urethane seam sealing will do a better job against corrosion.

Edited by toolman

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Returned Sunday from a convention in Las Vegas but managed squeeze  three hours of Z work time in.   As I was waiting for the front 

lower quarter panel leg, I decided to pull out two dents on the same rocker panel.

IMG_2922.thumb.JPG.88ca7235eb6a65dc2af89a06e6f5a10e.JPGTo do this, a 110vt stud gun was utilized.

The gun spot welds copper studs to the damaged area then the sliding grabs and pulls the dent out.


Pic of crease  on rocker panel.



Another angle of stud pulling.



If the repaired becomes "high" ,  there is also a shrinking tip that can be used.   This flat tip will heat a small area "red 

hot" then tap this area with a body hammer down.   Next, "quench" the area with a wet rag. This will create the shrinking action to occur and lower the area.

IMG_2937.thumb.JPG.871bab8a45c1a9a091fb4792f9c10251.JPGRepaired area after grinding with#24 grit paper


IMG_2939.thumb.JPG.d754ad20d2e4945b191dad2443369081.JPGPic of the other dent repaired with stud gun





Edited by toolman
correct text

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