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About DonH

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    Ontario, CA, US

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  1. This statement is too true - That and remember, you are swapping in a engine and transmission designed for a COMPLETELY different make and model. No matte rhow perfect the kit you will need to be able to tweak it to fit.
  2. You could make your own mounting ears in the rear section - I would. The stock trans mounts were designed to hold a 70# trans in place not a 140# trans lol
  3. I have heard of issues on the 280Z chasis with the CX kit - I had the same issue with my engine mount as well so I took it to a machine shop with a large break press and bent the ears to sit flush with the engine crossmember. You can do this at home witha vice and a propane torch if need be. I also used the side holes and drilled another mounting point for security on the ears. For the transmission - Why not return the transmission mount and fab up a full cross mount like the hoke / JTR style mount? https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/s30-ls2-engine-mounting-kit Where are you in cali? I could point you in the direction of local machine shop to bend your tans crossmember? Do you have an IG? PM me it ill conenct you with a guy that made his own as well with minimal welding and worked / is holding amazing!
  4. I searched for over 2 years for a non rsuted part out.... no luck. Im now fabricating my own from sheet metal. Good luck!
  5. count the splines - 240 will have 25 - 280 will have 27
  6. I have some I can send you and then you can send them back when your done measuring?
  7. What’s your PayPal? I need a set + the jig. Thanks!!!
  8. those look great man! Curious if you have come up with a solution to the header issue. it seems amlost EVERY single LS swap header has this issue except the stock headers. Im contemplating keeping stock headers at this point lol
  9. Great choice on coil overs! I have the same - only gripe is the studs are not long enough to run a strut tower. I replaced them with 6mm longer studs for this exact reason. Nice work so far!
  10. Hey Joe, Want to trade Shifter Relocation part? I have a GTO trans ( I didnt know this) and the MGW short shifter as well. I need the inner part and would gladly trade you my GTO for your F-Body one
  11. Hello Hybrid Z! I’m here to document my process of installing the Tanks Inc. Universal In Tank fuel pump. This has been done before numerous times BUT is somewhat elusive to track down quality pictures, notes etc. This is not a thread to discuss In tank VS external w/ sump etc. but I will mention my reason why I went with this setup. ***Disclaimer - I’m assuming you understand there’s is a risk involved when welding / cutting a old used gas tank. There’s a reason why I left mine out for almost 6 months while I worked on other parts of my build. PLEASE BE CAREFUL / make sure your tank has ZERO fuel particles / fumes leftover in it. Proceed at your own risk*** - Weld In universal sump hung to low on my lowered Z. You can imagine the issues! - External pumps are NOTORIOUS for noise... my build is a mid canned LS swap with AC etc. - Reduces the “clutter” under the car in the rear area Now for the what you will need parts wise : 1. PA series universal Kit from Tanks Inc. - MAKE SURE TO BUY THE FLOW RATE THAT SUITS YOUR BUILD http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm 2. 240Z or 280Z tank - Clearly the 240Z has one terrible baffle and the 280 has a few more. Baffling is not the Z Cars gas tanks strong Suite. With the PA kit it comes with a nifty little In tank sump that works amazing for MOST applications. 3. Tanks Inc PA-REC - Surprisingly very nice piece with a great https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-pa-rec/ 4. MIG Welder - I use the Eastwood MIG 135 and it does everything I need for this job and any other job in the Z! https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html First step is I measured up the top of the tank where I was going to chop! Here’s the great part about this process - you have a MASSIVE HOLE to get inside and clean / add baffles if you want! The recess fits nicely in the hole I just created In order to keep my stock fuel gauge I heated up the plunger am and bent accordingly to clear the Tanks Inc. system once installed I then used all 16 screws to since right the locking rig UNDERNEATH the recess and tack welded at and between each screw hole - 32 rack welds total after this I measured the Vertical portion of the tanks Inc arm with the recess mocked up - I measured a total of 9 15/16” so I cut to 9 7/8” for a little extra room - I then used a square to tack weld the tray instead of using ONE screw that’s supplied stay tuned for more tomorrow -Don
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