Jump to content

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

Recommended Posts

First photo is the "before picture" of the left side of frame rail. Notice 1" gap.

Second pic is 3/4" X 2" right angle 20 gauge sheetmetal  welded to subframe and existing sheetmetal

Third picture is outside view of right angle connecting pice welded to subframe and wheel housing.

Fourth pic is an additional 20 gauge 3" wide and about 48" long welded to the subframe and existing sheetmetal.   This will provide additional strength and looks better.

Fifth  photo is right side frame rail with connecting right angle support plate.

Sixth pic shows welding the right side  "cover plate'" to sheetmetal and subframe.

Seventh photo is engine compartment view of the subframe and connecting piece.  All the mig welds will covered with urethane seam sealer after

media blasting.   Next step is construct tension rod support brackets for both sides.








Link to comment
Share on other sites

First photo is the left side stabilizer bar mounting holes( a plate with corresponding nuts welded to it will be installed in the frame rail later)

Second pic is the right side stabilizer mounting holes.

Third picture shoes mocking up in preparation for welding of the tension rod bracket.

Fourth pic is the completed left side bracket.  It is constructed of 3" x 1"x 1/8" steel tubing (same as frame connectors)  The angle section is set at 20 degrees.

Fifth photo is the inside view of the bracket.

Sixth photo is the outer view of the right side tension rod bracket.

Seventh pic is the inside view of the tension rod bracket.   Both left and right tension rod brackets will have 20 gauge plates welded to

inside and outside of them.  This will replicate the factory appearance.













Edited by toolman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wheeler,  Your frame rails look great.  Are you going to race the car?    I started to do detail work on the engine compartment and decided to work on the radiator support instead.

While measuring the areas in front of the radiator-area where the bumper and hood hinge attach to)  needed straightening.   First picture shows the old radiator support.  Second pic is of 

both areas stripped of paint and cleaned. The third photo has the right side with the reinforcement rib removed to fix under it.  Fourth pic had the rib replaced and ready to rewelded

on.   The fifth photo is the left side with the rib removed and damaged area repaired.  Sixth pic show the rib replaced awaiting to be welded back.   The vehicle was in an accident before

I bought it and the area( crush area) was not repaired as that would require rib removal.   Next to be done will the construction of the replacement radiator support.








Edited by toolman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tool man - I have only done some autocrossing with the car.  That and weekend use is really what I use it for.  It is fun and handles great and is loud and a little smelly...but it is fast.  I followed a similar path to the one you are on.  Once I redid the front subframe, I went on the the core support.  Mine was a little bent (probably from an accident) and I thought I could improve it a bit.  Here is one picture that I found. Lesson learned - you need to make sure the hood hinges work with your core support in the open and closed position.  Mine contacted the sheet metal on either side of the core support and needed to be cut a little to allow the hinge to clear.  Keep up with the great progress that you are making.  


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm... isn't it traditional to make a tube frame first, and THEN construct a body for it?  Looks like you did it the other way around! :P   Much more difficult that way - like going through the tail pipe to do a valve job.

I thought I had it bad when the "repaired" frame rail beneath my battery turned out to have been fixed with chewing gum and aluminum foil.  You've got a much bigger job, and although I don't envy your task, I do admire your work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the support.   Sometimes these projects become bigger than anyone can predict.  While the ribs were off,  I double checked the front area in front the both struts and found the left side was 1" higher than the right.   I called my friend who has a 70 240Z to take measurements off his car.   I confirmed that the right side was correct and left side was high by 1".    Since I didn't have a frame machine handy, I decided to section the left side and raise it 1".   See photo 1  welded a 2" sheetmetal strip to reinforce the joined area on the inside,   This area will be covered by the new radiator support.   Pic 2  show the rib rewelded in and new section above the rib to provide a smooth transition between altered section and old area.   Pic 3 show additional sheetmetal strip  welded in to reinforce the outer section.  This was necessary as this panel has handle the hood hinge and bumper brackets.




Edited by toolman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

First pic is the "before" of left radiator support.   Second is the paper template for replacement section.  Third one shows the replacement mocked in.  Fourth is of the"before" pics of the

right radiator support.  Fifth shows the replacement section mocked in.  The last photo is the overall view of the radiator support awaiting welding.







Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the ducts in the radiator support are constructed with sheet metal.   I followed the basic pattern of the factory panel.  Those extra holes will probably used for AC

condenser hoses.  Larger holes may be necessary  if I go to a PRO-CHARGER supercharger for the intercooler.   In that case. new grill would  be constructed too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 First picture is the completed radiator core support.   It is welded to both sides of the front fenders and to the square tubing frame.   Picture  2 show the rear of the support.

I drill holes in the inside of the front tubing to lighten it and for looks.  The third picture shows the front area where the bumpers and hood hinge are located.   Spacing of core support and 

hood hinges are critical to prevent interference of moving parts.  Check clearance before welding support in.    Next step was to strip the engine compartment  and weld up any small 

unnecessary holes.    But I discovered the area under the battery holder was corroded.   So the holder was cut out.  Photo 4 shows the corrosion.  Pic #5  is corroded  area is to be cut out.   The last pic is the top view of the patch to be installed .








Edited by toolman
add text
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First pic is top view of restored battery holder.  Second is the bottom view of the holder.   The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted".  I still have not decided whether to

install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car.   The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_1912.MOV    Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas.   The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb.

Low budget build but with a  lot of fabrication work.




IMG_1884.JPG    A clean Z car with fender flares

E we

IMG_1883.JPG   Bored out motor with  Weber carbsIMG_1867.JPG

IMG_1866.JPG     Wide flared 240Z car.  Someone told me that there was  a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it.   There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.


Edited by toolman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back to the Build.IMG_1958.thumb.JPG.02fccca66580d5e19e617ee9f4b22eb1.JPG  wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to

clean area around vent box.  So vent cover was carefully removed.IMG_1962.thumb.JPG.fd9e4711443578078c382887358251cf.JPGAfter cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.IMG_1964.thumb.JPG.913c3e921c05253687ccb20e2c26b6f7.JPGDriver side cowl after priming.IMG_1965.thumb.JPG.c644bd7ad9df1d9c44caff4dca05c856.JPG

                                                                                   Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

            One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest

LS motors.  This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3.  It basically has a cam change.  the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque.  Perfect for me.  IMG_1955.thumb.JPG.d290e057a2d93c7ecf0c7b8f3298bde2.JPG.IMG_1936.thumb.JPG.97d6ad035f33e2c0d44fe7bc83e13802.JPGThis Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to

build and install their motors in almost any car or truck.  It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i

choose files...Click to choose files.url

Edited by toolman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_2025.thumb.JPG.1330d703a6a60a1fdefcb5de4f3e63db.JPG Tools used for undercoat and paint removalIMG_1979.thumb.JPG.4bc327ba961457e2a986d845f69443da.JPG   The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car.   I tack welded

all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,IMG_1987.thumb.JPG.e562a32d952541ef05cdd288f15b5b7e.JPGStrut tower  also welded,IMG_2001.thumb.JPG.558c2419313b4559114a2a76b181764b.JPG

               A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting.    The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car.   All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape.  The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard.    Canvas and plastic sheeting  covered doors and hatch areas.    Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting.  In this case,  80 grit abrasive was utilized.    I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media.  A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. IMG_2004.thumb.JPG.56ab224a52d32f7dd1ce22e3916b8996.JPG IMG_2019.thumb.JPG.03d5d2216d326b1a9625c61bbe8f3934.JPG

self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion,   The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.



Edited by toolman
add pic and corrections
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...