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         I had to order the SEM sprayable seam seal from Amazon.   It sells for about $20 per tube.   I used three tubes for my job.  The sealer has about a year shelve life so that probably explains why auto paint supply place ha not have it.   Always check the date on the sealer tubes.   I bought the sealer gun mainly for this job.    You can probably get a friend in the auto body business to loan you a gun.   Just make sure you clean it well and fast as the sealer sets up quickly.    The SEM sprayable sealer is also an OEM approved undercoating if that is what you are looking for.

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The rear interior area proved to be difficult to seam seal and paint as the bottom side.   The tools utilized to do this job were: a flat scraper, flat

screwdriver, chalking with Fusor DTM seam sealer, a small round mirror. areosol upside down spray can, acid brush taped to a long screwdriver and a 1000 degree heat gun.

IMG_3644.thumb.JPG.a95eafe98ee79b3b2cfb8f4d122436cd.JPGFirst, Heat the old seam sealer with the Heat gun.

then scape it off with the flat screwdriver.


The top of the strut pocket area is another difficult area to remove and apply new seam sealer.

IMG_3613.thumb.JPG.12dfdebbb6a9f779042d40e175623ebb.JPGThe mirror is used to see all those hidden areas.


Another difficult area is the right rear quarter panel pocket.  At the end , the pocket turns suddenly to the right.

IMG_3627.thumb.JPG.65bfbb6ba8fdab681c583b132045700e.JPGTo paint after the rignt hand turn,  you must spray paint through the rear marker light hole.

IMG_3618.thumb.JPG.3724a89ed0a6282c8319ac9fd0b9294c.JPGTo paint this tight area,  spray at an angle through the marker hole.


Remove old seam sealer or reseal.

IMG_3629.thumb.JPG.7dbfabb5c8bb45400f88a5a87401e337.JPGDifficult areas can usually reached with an acid brush taped to a log screwdriver.


IMG_3630.thumb.JPG.9768dc5f15663b20fed8f3bc4f4a145a.JPGTo paint tight areas, the modified aerosol spray can is used.


The underside  of the hatch rear panel was seam sealed.


Then painted



Hatch interior area also primed with second coat of Poly Primer.  




Left side of interior-Note the SEM Sprayable SEAM SEALER is barely noticeable after being painted.


View of interior primed




View of rear hatch area




Rear panel primed.    Next is body work on rear dog legs and few other places.  After that, start on doors and fenders.


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On 7/31/2018 at 12:02 PM, toolman said:


         I had to order the SEM sprayable seam seal from Amazon.   It sells for about $20 per tube.   I used three tubes for my job.  The sealer has about a year shelve life so that probably explains why auto paint supply place ha not have it.   Always check the date on the sealer tubes.   I bought the sealer gun mainly for this job.    You can probably get a friend in the auto body business to loan you a gun.   Just make sure you clean it well and fast as the sealer sets up quickly.    The SEM sprayable sealer is also an OEM approved undercoating if that is what you are looking for.


I guess I'll have to ask around to see if I can find one to borrow because it's not quite worth $200 to me (though it's probably pretty close). I was going to ask if you're willing to lend yours out with a deposit, but then I checked the location...

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ZHoob2004,  Can I ask you why you need to use sprayable seam sealer?     If you are just trying to duplicate the spray texture of the seam sealer, there are several methods to create that spray on texture.   I can post text and pics to show you how to do it.


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Did some body work on the rear panel.



Small dents on roof were found.




rear dog leg body worked.



Right rear dogleg bodtworked.



Tools used for seam sealing Cowl Area: round mirror, acid brush attached to a screwdriver and a acid brush with the bristles

cut in half to make it stiffer.

IMG_3672.thumb.JPG.b22f54ebf59830a42f84a2f2b8fb0fde.JPGLacquer thinner can to used to

thin the seam sealer to make it easier to apply.

The cowl area was seam sealed with the Fusor sealer.



The exterior of the duct was seam sealed.


Even the interior of the duct was seam sealed( the top cover must be drilled out and removed to access inside).



Left rear dog after body work-painted with poly primer.



Right rear dogleg also poly primed after body work



The fuel filler section was attached to the quarter panel using Evercoat # 100823 seam sealer which is a two part epoxy seam sealer.

IMG_3685.thumb.JPG.62654bd7d5677ed042913d2abe7d4ab6.JPGOutside view of fuel filler section.


IMG_3687.thumb.JPG.aba7143fa38806422ca97c2b1c2ae782.JPGinside view of filler section.  The Evercoat # 100823 sealer was used because it has epoxy properties that resist damage from gasoline spillage when fueling.

   The doors will probably be the next thing to be worked on.   Once I strip down the doors, I know how much work that has to be done on them.













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ZHoob2004,   To create a textured pattern on your seam sealer, you must be creative.   First , you must use a plastic bondo spreader to spread the seam sealer into a wide flat area.

IMG_3692.thumb.JPG.81d78f9a3324c09ab235baa49b5318e6.JPGIMG_3693.thumb.JPG.7fc3eebabc127576c200c1d00028672c.JPGusing an acid brush, you poke the sealer to achieve the

texture that you want.

Second method is to use a blow gun and just blow the sealer from various distances and different patterns( zigjag, circles,etc)



You can also change the texture by thinner to the sealer(changing its thickness)..



You can use combs, small dust brooms, almost anything to create different textures.   It is better if you apply the sealer in the normal manner and let the sealer dry overnight before performing texture techniques over it.   Sealing the seam is the more important function than cosmetic.

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   I made a small tent out of blue tarp outside my rollup garage door.  It will serve as a temporary sand blasting booth for the doors.





With the garage door closed, the booth will keep the blasting media outside the garage.  With the door on a work table and a 1000 Lumen

work light provides a decent working area.



Snadblasting was used those hard to get areas( everything but the flat exterior portion).   This pic shows the right rear bottom door edge.



This view show the front bottom edge of the door.   Note-this patch was put in about 43 years ago.   I bent the lower edge of the patch and

flatted the edge and tacked both edges with brass rod using a torch.   I drilled additional 1/4" drain holes to provide more drainage.  



Only corrosion found was located above the rear portion of the old patch.   This area was cut out and new patch will be made. 



The exterior paint on the door was removed by  scrapping using  a razor blade.


This method usually doesn't work on the factory paint and primer only overcoats.


  My car was painted three times over the factory paint ( original Orange).

 The interior portion of the door was sand blasted because of its uneven surfaces.   Paint remover was not used because of the mess it creates.



A felt pen was used to make the dents on the exterior of the door panel.



A H & S stud gun was utilized to weld the pulling studs to the panel.



 Then a small sliding hammer pulls up the dents up.  Body filler finishes the process.





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After plugging the  1/8" side molding holes with the mig welder,  the welds were grinded with 3" 3M mig weld grinding wheels.   These wheels

are best at grinding mig welds.

IMG_3749.thumb.JPG.1b3753f5e26f4f5167037e14c6a2c75b.JPGIts narrow surface allows of only the beads


Then the welds are finished off with 24 Grit grining discs on a right angle die grinder.



Overall view of dent repair on the door panel.



I made a template for the patch on the door corner.


outside view of patch


Inside view of patch



At this point,  I decided to make it into a Reverse Patch which is a patch installed from the inside not from outside.  this method allows the patch to be lower than the original panel.   Then, only a small amount of body filler is required.


Problem of holding the patch inside of door tight space had to overcome.   I bent a 3/16" steel rod to hold the patch against edge of hole while tack welding.



One end of the rod was inserted into a nearby rust proofing hole and placed against the patch.   A downward motion

of the vise grip puts pressure against the patch.   After tacking. I just move the inner tip for the next area to be tack weld.


This method is similar to the procedure used by Paint less Dent repairers.


Evercoat epoxy seam sealer was applied to door panel seams.

IMG_3772.thumb.JPG.947b2804d0cb6ffcd76dec7cf8654e25.JPGfront lower edge


IMG_3773.thumb.JPG.66f3852bf2f3feb6c56cc88fc903a97b.JPGRear lower door edge sealed


Unfortunately,  we had a Category 5 (winds above 150mph) Hurricane heading straight toward the Hawaiian Islands

so I had to prepare for the storm and was unable to finish the door.   Fortunately, the Hurricane turned away at the last

minute and only gave us heavy rainfall.




Edited by toolman
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It took some time to sand blast the interior side of the door panel.   So a 4 1/2 right angle grinder with a cup wire wheel was used for paint removal before sand blasting.

IMG_3778.thumb.JPG.3086679a81cbedabfd2b03458880c5c4.JPGThe grinder saved about half a day sand blasting.


With a bottom edge peeled open, the extensive corrosion can be seen.



A  4 1/2" cutoff wheel was used to cut off about 1" below the lower body line.



With the cut made. the corrosion can easily seen.



After wire brushing the area. the patch can be constructed.


About  5/16" additional metal for the lip that folds around the panel lower edge.


This is the front side of the patch.



The patch was attached to the door skin with sheet metal screws.  Then was mig welded and seam sealed.


A 1/2" holes were drilled with Blair hole saws in the both lower corners of the doors.  They provided access for rustproofing later.   A 1/8" drill bit

was used to provide a pilot for the hole saws because of the uneven shape of the panel.    These holes were plugged using 1/2" rust proofing

plastic plugs after rust proofing.   These areas are prone to corrosion and must be rust proofed.


The fold over edges will be tack weld and seam sealed.   All of the welded areas( including molding holes) will cleaned and painted with epoxy primer.


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Both doors were completed of corrosion repair and were epoxy primed.   The small dents will tended to later.


IMG_3807.thumb.JPG.d2a800f21e38109ca594d218b0353bb8.JPGNote-Additional drain holes made in lower door edge.


Underseal  on the underside of fender was removed with 1000 watt heat gun and hand scraper.  Just warm underseal first, then scrape the underseal off.

A auto body stand was used to support the fender while scrapping.   After scrapping the majority of the underseal off, the paint on the outside of the fender was removed.   Most of the paint came off by scrapping 

the paint using a razor blade.  The remainder will be sanded with 36 grit sandpaper then media blast off( note all the paint scrapping on ground).



The inside fender reinforcement had corrosion on the bottom area.

IMG_3818.thumb.JPG.a25191f069b5003c28f834332485440c.JPGThis is a common corrosion area. due to lack of drainage and no rustproofing.

The old metal fender flare was removed with an air saw.



A paper template was made to create a fender patch from.



..A metal shrinker was used to make the bend in the lower part of the fender



The patch was matched to the bend of the original fender so shrinking was done carefully to prevent over bending.



The patch was test fit and shaped as needed.   This process was done many times.



The patch on the reinforcement was test fitted.



Tacking welding the reinforcement patch.



The outside patch welded on.

IMG_3838.thumb.JPG.5944a36dfca500f09bdd604cbaad0c7d.JPGAll welded and grinded.


Now the reinforcement patch can welded back to the fender.  Note-the fender edge was hammered back down.IMG_3839.thumb.JPG.5b1c81456d499dfc1cf80184a75ef1f1.JPG

All seams and welded areas will be seam sealed then sprayed with weld thru primer to prevent corrosion.  Additional rust proofing access holes will drilled in this area.





Edited by toolman
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Matt 78Z.  It would be difficult to give you an estimate corrosion repair as the work would vary with amount of corrosion on each vehicle.

If you wondering how much my car's corrosion repair would cost: I would guess I spent about 1080 hours on just corrosion repair.

Auto Body Shops charge from $100-150 per hour.   Another factor to consider is the quality of workmanship.   Some shops just cover up the

rust and it comes back in couple months.   Ask other people to find shops that did good work for them.  I hope this information is helpful to you.

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I meant if you had paid someone to do your car to the extent your doing it, that adds up fast.  Cost of materials has to be added in as well.  We don't seem to have many shops that do true restorations like you are doing, that is a dying trade.  Most places do quick in and out insurance jobs.  I'm looking forward to seeing your car done, nice work.

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Although the corrosion didn't look too bad from the outside, the inside view showed a lot of corrosion on this fender.



The corrosion section was cut out with 4 1/2 grinder with 1/16" cutoff wheel.


This patch was put in about 40 years ago.   With the new sealers and rustproofing should improve the patch life.IMG_3853.thumb.JPG.1d9b5c4e592eda7210cbacd31afca657.JPGA paper template was made to create a new patch.


The rear fender brace also had corrosion damage.



Sometimes, a pipe can be used to bend the fender patch.

IMG_3861.thumb.JPG.d8a2d06bb6946350475f65cf7f745e35.JPGSometimes no special tools are necessary.


A tear in the fender was repaired using an oxygen acetylene torch.   IMG_3857.thumb.JPG.d79b260b6370cf4a7e786b4387b36fce.JPG


This method produces a softer and durable weld than mig welding.



The front corner of the fender needed  patch to repair a tear there.



The corner patch being welded in.



The inside of both fenders were stripped of paint, underseal and rust proofing.   This process was very labor intensive and took a whole day 

to complete.   The fenders were then epoxy primed.  When the paint dries, the patches and any seams will be sealed.



Next weekend, The hood will be worked on.


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Before I started on the hood repair,  I seam sealed the fenders.IMG_3874.thumb.JPG.be6845bdf5d042b572dea1eaf4bae1dd.JPG

Both inside and outside of the front of both fenders were seam sealed.

As the rear bottom of the fenders had major corrosion problems, I decided to perform extra work to prevent future corrosion in the these areas.

IMG_3877.thumb.JPG.d566a7a10138058c189448183a46cbc4.JPGview of repaired lower rear fender section.

A 1/2" rust proofing hole is drilled in the lower portion of the fender.   Rust proofing can be shot into this area after the car is painted.

IMG_3885.thumb.JPG.232271a66542ff204123b00321896af3.JPGNote-This area was seam sealed

to direct any water and debris though the lower fender mounting hole.  Without this passage, water and debris would get

stuck between fender and reinforcing panel and cause corrosion.

This  backside view also shows the improved drainage method.



Paint stripping of the hood was started by using wire brush on a 4 1/2" right grinder.



This is what factory original paint plus three other paint jobs looks like after stripping.



Made the paper template for the hood repair.


The spot welds around the hood area were drilled out for removal of the section.


The hood section to be repaired was marked for cutout with 4 1/2 grinder..



IMG_3912.thumb.JPG.d1525ad14819a19b967f2cd80b20fd5e.JPGPanel cut out and removed to allow panel repair.

The hood edge was straightened using a 1/2" steel square bar and couple of c-clamps.




The top of the hood panel was straightened with body hammers and dollies.


The repaired section was fitted on hood many times to check "fitness".



1" strips of sheetmetal was installed on the hood to provide support for the repaired section to be welded to.

IMG_3923.thumb.JPG.6610911b2abbf84cfa4481d7d92a8121.JPGWeld on primer was used to prevent corrosion on hood ribs.

The repaired section welded to the hood.


The completion of the hood repair was delayed as my mig Tweco gun went bad.   The trigger switch was the problem but 

it was not available anywhere so I had to order a whole new Tweco mig gun.   I am trying to do a  McGuyver repair so I can at least finish the hood so I am crossing my fingers!!


















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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally received my replacement Tweco gun and lead.  It has a HD switch and gives me a better control of the mig wire.  Two

flat 3" wide copper strips were temporary installed under the hood butt weld.  It will disperse some of heat of the mig welding.



A paper template of the bottom of the front bottom edge of the hood.



Side view of the hood repair.



A H&S Stud Welder was used with shrinking tip to shrink high spots found on the hood.  Note-the shrinking tip is round and flat.


It creates about 3/8" round red hot in the sheetmetal.  This spot is immediately cooled with a wet rag.  This action caused the spot to shrink.


The lower passenger side of the hood also had small dents which the stud welder pulled out.



After painting the hood with epoxy primer, I started work on the cowl section.   As this section is flimsy and vents are difficult to remove the paint,

paint remover was used.


Note-if you look carefully you can see the factory orange /red lead primer and the other three paint jobs on it.

The vent openings were difficult to remove the paint because of its narrowness and thick paint buildup.


Two 1/8" rust holes from the bottom side were found and carefully mig welded.



This view shows the repair after grinding.



The cowl was then epoxy primed.

IMG_3951.thumb.JPG.b06877e458f7b9fcb4e1118d0e2e3610.JPGNote-Even after using the paint remover, media blasting was necessary to remove remaining paint before priming.


Finally the exterior of the two front fenders were epoxy primed.









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