Jump to content
HybridZ
stony

so you wanna swap an rb eng? here ya go

Recommended Posts

Parts numbers if anyone is interested:

 

11110 - Oil sump

15050 - Oil pickup

15200G - Oil pickup O Ring

11232 - RH Mount

11233 - LH Mount

11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH)

 

These are only half the part numbers, the second half is missing which designates the model application.

 

If anyone has these could you please share.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Zedboy

Stony,

I have a question for you which i hope you can answer.

I am about to begin the same swap as you in my 75 260z. Mine is a 2+2, and therefore has a longer wheelbase and I guess driveshaft as well. You mentioned in your initial posting that for optimal handling, I'd need to move the engine back and down, and shorten the driveshaft (in a 2 seater).

I'm still at the research stage at this point and I'm just wondering if you or anyone else out there has any idea how this particular configuration would work in a 2+2?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if it has a longer wheel base as you said i would guess it would need a longer shaft. I would say compare the stock 2 seater vs 4 seat drive shaft. if it is around a inch longer you could move the motor back to make the shaft work or make a longer driveshaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest nolafool

i read thru most the post and i still have a couple questions and if i missed it i'm sorry its a bit late here

 

i waiting 2 blow my l-28 in my 80-280 coupe before i do a swap .. i was wondering if the swap is much diffrent than yours and if so what would be different.

 

i havent decided bewteen a 25 or 26 i am not on tight budget but i cant spend a whole alot.. i'm not really looking for HP i will be mostly doing autox and drift events..

 

Also would it matter what model it came out 32 33 ex...

 

any help would be greatly appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure about your choice in cars for drifting but if your gonna do Auto X i would say go sr20, or something like that. I have seen the later modle Zs with the RB26 swap so it can be done. Not sure on the bolt on stuff though. And if you can't spend that much then stay away from the rb26. you need to much other chassis suspension and drivetrain mods to support it if your going to race it.

 

I gave up on getting the stock drivetrain into the 10s and the best i could do was low 11s. car is getting a backhalve now :twak:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest nolafool

every 240sx around here has a sr in it.. plus Z's came with a inline 6 and i kinda wanna keep it that way ... otherwise i'd put a 350 in it.. but i'm a nissan person i dont drive anything but.. i have a daliy driver not too worried about the car being out of commission for awhile and i'll spend the money if i must 2 get what i want in the end i will be bringing it to dragstrip for runs but i like autox better

 

or should i just go turbo the l28 and call it a day?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
These are only half the part numbers' date=' the second half is missing which designates the model application.

 

If anyone has these could you please share.

 

Thanks[/quote']

 

11110-20P00

15050-20P03

15059-V5001 O ring

11232-41L00

11233-41L00

11220-01L10

 

-----

kazu

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest MickieB
Stony' date='

I have a question for you which i hope you can answer.

I am about to begin the same swap as you in my 75 260z. Mine is a 2+2, and therefore has a longer wheelbase and I guess driveshaft as well. You mentioned in your initial posting that for optimal handling, I'd need to move the engine back and down, and shorten the driveshaft (in a 2 seater).

I'm still at the research stage at this point and I'm just wondering if you or anyone else out there has any idea how this particular configuration would work in a 2+2?[/quote']

 

I'm going to be doing this in not too long, a matter of weeks. Once i've done it, or attempted it, i'll post info on the differences with doing it in a 2+2, and some photos of how it was done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest forbanger

how do you use the all wheel drive trans in a rear wheel drive application?

 

thanks,

jose

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, can someone post some detailed info on the custom driveshaft? Dimensions, mounting adapters, anything???? I heard the Skylines use a two piece driveshaft and you can use the front half and it fits perfectly for the RB26DETT into a 260Z so I would assume it would be the same for the 240z and 280Z....can anyone confirm this?

 

Please help:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mine was a 260, i used a r33 5 speed (RWD) and the front half of the driveshaft that was attached to that tranny. I believe that teh 240 and 280 z should all be pretty close. you only need the diff flange that came with the driveshaft you aquire. the tranny mount is going to be custom. No way around that. all the part numbers you need to know are in this forum just have to spend some time looking arpound and using the search.

 

thanks

 

Clint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest MikeB7283

Hey Stony,

 

Hate to ask another question, but would you recommend getting an R33 RWD tranny over the AWD tranny and disabling the AWD?

 

I'm thinking of swapping an RB26 into my 82 280ZXT.

 

I'm kinda new to this whole thing, but another question is did you have to adjust the position of the gear box at all when doing your swap? I'm not sure but I read about some people saying that they'd have to shift from the back seat if they installed the AWD tranny in other cars.. Not sure about how it fits in a 280ZX...u did say that it fits "perfectly"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do not go with the AWD tranny unlees you plan on cutting a big hole in the floor to accomadate the transfer case. the shifter is in the same position i believe as the r33 gtst 5 speed. If getting a gtst 5 speed is an issue Castlemine rod shop in austrailia makes an adate to fit just about any stateside tranny you can think of. google castlemine rod shop fro the URL.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest MikeB7283

thx for the info!

 

Isn't the gtst the tranny u used? or did I read incorrectly? I want whatever works well and easiest to put in. I didn't know I needed to do anything special transmission wise =/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thx for the info!

 

Isn't the gtst the tranny u used? or did I read incorrectly? I want whatever works well and easiest to put in. I didn't know I needed to do anything special transmission wise =/

 

THE GT-S rb25det Tranny is just what you need. the tranny bolts right into any of the rb motors they are all the same(matching wise).the tranny mount maybe the only custom work that should be done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest mrt0mjones

so what all is COMPLETELY necessary to put the rb26 in???

 

and how bad is the handling with awd... on the 280z?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm gonna sounds REALLY stupid, but I just thought of it and kinda laughed at myself.

 

Anyone ever though about putting a RB26 motor in a Z in a rear engine AWD setup? I don't know how well it would fit in a S30, but in a 280ZX 2+2 it might fit, and it's a bit lighter of a car still than the skyline.

 

I'm loosing my mind everyone. Someone stop me before I weld a rocket to the top of my car and leave my imprint in the side of a mountain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a thought on which engine to go with. I've been surfing the net looking to get an idea of what it would cost for all the parts I need, and I've come to a realization. You can get a 25DET & Trans for about $3K, and a RB26DETT engine for $3.5K plus $1.2K for the GTS Trans. That's about $1.7K more than the 25DET.

If you get the RB25DET you need to spend about $900 for the Greddy intake and Q45TB right off the bat, and it seems that the HiPo parts available are almost twice the cost of an RB26DETT.

It seems to me that the cost difference between the 2, ends up being only a few hundred dollars if you get cams, and such.

Am I way off on this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just a thought on which engine to go with. I've been surfing the net looking to get an idea of what it would cost for all the parts I need' date=' and I've come to a realization. You can get a 25DET & Trans for about $3K, and a RB26DETT engine for $3.5K plus $1.2K for the GTS Trans. That's about $1.7K more than the 25DET.

If you get the RB25DET you need to spend about $900 for the Greddy intake and Q45TB right off the bat, and it seems that the HiPo parts available are almost twice the cost of an RB26DETT.

It seems to me that the cost difference between the 2, ends up being only a few hundred dollars if you get cams, and such.

Am I way off on this?[/quote']

 

Yes and no, you should really think about how much HP you want to make to help you with your engine choice. Also my full RB25DET motorset cost me 2000, so you would be good if you found a full one for 2500.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes and no, you should really think about how much HP you want to make to help you with your engine choice. Also my full RB25DET motorset cost me 2000, so you would be good if you found a full one for 2500.

 

I'm looking for between 350-400Hp to start. (Tight budget) Put as I tweak out the car, and I have the money to spend I will start to up that number. When I'm done I want around 550-600Hp, but who knows I may want more.:twisted:

 

I know the the RB25 block could handle that power, but that's at it's limits. And I don't know about you, but I don't like the idea of have to rebuild this motor because it couldn't take the power. Also the RB26 Lets itself easier to get more power than the RB25. And from what I've seen it's cheaper to get 600Hp out of the RB26 plus it will be more reliable while doing it.

 

Just my thoughts based on the information that I've read so far.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×