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Fixed the door slaming issue..

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#61 GodZilla


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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:26 PM

Or, you can but a new latch plate!... I bought one from MSA for ~$18... solved the problem and the part was an original nissan part.

Mike Nycz

Going to try what OP said but if that fails, does anybody have a part number for the latch plate on MSA/Z Store? Thanks in advance.

#62 Papaboy



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Posted 24 September 2010 - 08:42 PM

I just wanted to say thanks!! :lol:

the grinding worked great even my 4 year old can easily close the door now. I just need to get it a little tighter it rattles a very small amount once latched.

#63 mildsquare


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Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:36 PM

I love Hybridz!!!! no more having to Hulk My door to close.

#64 zathan



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Posted 21 August 2014 - 12:27 PM

Thanks to nix240z on classiczcars the rubber grommet that goes on the door latch is available again. You can read about it here and order it here. He´s also reproducing a lot of the rubber/plastic parts that are no longer available, so check it out.

#65 mtnickel



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Posted 31 December 2014 - 04:40 PM

To add to this thread. Just an FYI, but the more you grind from the red portion (second lobe notch), the more you will have to compress the door to close. Yes, the geometery will be better and the lobe will be able to rotate properly instead of binding, but you now require the door to press in that much further to allow that latch to reach it's latched position. Moreover there is a higher tendancy for the door to have rattles when shut since there is more play.

The best solution is probably the rubber piece. This allows the cam to rotate more and provide a better angle for the next tooth/notch.

I however don't trust myself with being able to glue a tiny piece of rubber to a cam that is covered with grease/oils/years of grime. I opted instead to just add material to the blue area. I built up an extra 2-3mm on the initial face (blue edge) with a welder. This worked great allowing the cam to catch sooner and get the second cam into the right position (basically I am adding weld material to the striker face the equivalent width of whatever the rubber piece would be.


Also to note, I now have the freedom to drop the striker plate down to get better door alignment. Beforehand, if you dropped the striker at all you make the angles even worse and it would not shut at all. No problems now.


Pics to come.

#66 simulacrum



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Posted 20 March 2016 - 11:00 AM

This thread really helped me out; I recently bought a '72 240 off of eBay. It was great but the drivers side door had to be slammed to the point of concern or it would not fully latch. From inside the car it was very difficult.


After finding this thread in a bout of restlessness last night; I went to Lowes and bought a 36" piece of 3/8" PEX pipe. PEX is made from polyethylene and is pretty similar to nylon in hardness and low friction. 


Attached File  Screen Shot 2016-03-20 at 2.42.13 PM.png   942.83KB   6 downloads


I trimmed a 3/8" piece off and made one cut along the side. After submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes, I formed it around the 1/2" handle of the x-acto I used to cut it with.


It snapped right on the contact lobe of the door latch.


Attached File  Screen Shot 2016-03-20 at 2.42.37 PM.png   352.8KB   5 downloads

Attached File  Screen Shot 2016-03-20 at 2.42.50 PM.png   661.73KB   4 downloads


The door closes almost without effort now.


15 minutes for both doors and $1.60 in materials.


No grinding.

Edited by simulacrum, 22 March 2016 - 05:41 PM.

#67 RebekahsZ


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Posted 20 March 2016 - 01:31 PM

Will try to copy you.  My doors have broken sheetmetal around the latch screws just like yours.  Also a '72.  Thanks for posting your solution.

Edited by RebekahsZ, 20 March 2016 - 01:32 PM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!

#68 JDowwwg



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Posted 21 March 2016 - 09:11 PM

very helpful thread. thanks for posting this one  :2thumbs:

#69 seattlejester


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Posted 02 May 2016 - 01:05 AM

Sorry to revive, but marking for future reference, thanks for blazing the trail guys!

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