Jump to content
HybridZ
AE2ZX

L28e To L28et Swap

Recommended Posts

Ahh, the beauty of ebay.

 

That sucks man, I've had that happen too many times. Auctions should never be about stealing a bid from someone.

 

I think i'm gonna go with this BOV once I get around to installing a fmic & bov.

 

https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_63&products_id=52

 

Here's a vid with the same type of bov on a RB motor.

 

http://www.935motorsports.com/media05/turboxsBOV.mpeg

 

I like how quiet it is. It also seems effetively simple. I often question how well some of the mid priced ones work, beucase they all seem to be so focused on the sound.

 

I'm personally a fan of form following function, not the other way around.

 

Hope all goes well with your BOV hunting.

 

EDIT: Changed the first link to the recerculating model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya i just did a buy it now one.. just a cheapy for Now .

whatever .....i will find a better one .this one will be the cheapy tester one i guess .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=270028634851&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT

pretty much just want to get this motor in and tested befor i spend anymore money on it ...what if its rings or valve seals are crap and i have spent $150 on a bov :eek2:...better i wait untell i get her fired over and running good befor i spend to much more .so ya cheap bov on the way and clutch will be here someday :?....

its starting to get rainy so i think real soon iam going to get to ripping her down ..shouldn't take much more than a day or two .

 

 

 

that vids pretty sick ..nice sounding bov ..super sick sounding rb25det

good vid G :icon47:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

motor is ready to come out .Evrything is unhooked unbolted or removed ..

i removed the na ecu and wiring H ..it all came out real eazy .driveline and trany are all unbolted trany is just stilling on the cross member but everything is unbolted ...its moving along at a good pace going to have it out by mid day tomarrow for sure ..as long as a few extra hands show up to help me guide it out ..if not by moring by eveing ...:icon43:

 

onthewayouty001.jpg

 

gray showed up and was like , lets do this man . :)

 

itsout001.jpg

 

 

 

itsout002.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FOR SALE

3 into2 header and pipe to cat $150.00

{i repainted crome high temp}

p79 head $200.00

Black powder coated valve cover$40

will sell {it all} full motor with trany ,N/A ecu and harness $350.00 OBO

strong runner, no weird smoking, powerful kick down....

WILLING TO Part OUT ALL OF IT IF YOU NEED SOMETHING ASK ...

I HAVE TWO FULL n/a motor setups

 

also i have a n47 head if anyone needs it $50.00

 

painrted001.jpg

 

painrted002.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got alot done in the last 24 hours

going to start painting the bay tomarrow .

 

as for the rack .....hmhmhmhm there is no hooks for the t rack on this

crossmember :(

i now understand :icon56: ..

iam going to just cut up my wastgate actautor plate and

keep the POWER RACK :(

mabe i will buy a cooler and hook it to the lines :redface: IF it gets to hot :shock:

or make a heat sield with a air duct..:burnout:

 

fuel rail is in along wit plugs , pump , pullyes motor is ready to go ! wheres that d!$ clutch !

MOTORNEW002.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i thought of a few ideas .

carben canister is going to be in the way of my intercooler pipeing so i think

iam going move it to the where the oil cooler would mount ,

on the outer fender wall ..and drill a hole or to for the lines .

sence my oil cooler is going to be front mounted .

 

also on the rack setup , going to tack some sheet metal together and make

a air duct to cool the steering box down .if the air from the turbo hood was ran alittle differntly and there was a little air duct pushing air up from under the car into a cooler box that was hooked to lines or just mount a cooler on the left side wheel well ..then i dont think it would get any hotter than it did with my header heating it up all the time .

if you look at the injector fan on the turbo cars they made a duct running to the under side of the block to suck in cold air to feed the fan

this idea has been used on alot of cars over the years so i think it will work well for cooling the box ..

+ it will be a fun project for after i get the motor in and running ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know you want to get your car running ASAP, but NOW is the time to swap out to the manual rack crossmember!!! If you do it now, you won't regret it. It's alot easier with the engine out. It might set you back maybe an extra day of work on the car.

 

Aaron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

changeing the rack is just so lame :( IF i can get that cross member out

of the turbo car i will think about it ....

i dont think i have a socket that big ..

if i had air tools than it wouldn't be a problem but i dont .

iam very limited on tools :icon56:

 

i got a little more done this afternoon .i cleaned up the bay with

simple green ...man that stuff cut the grease real good .

then i worked on the carbin canister .

i drilled 6 little holes used the stock plastic screw inserts and hooked it to the

right inner fender well .i may also tack weld a small sheet metal cover together for it in the future..

i removed what little line was left from my AC .

its to windy to paint and there is still prep to do , so bay painting will have to wait a day .crcanister.jpg

 

got the auto stick out and 5speed boot all setup for the swap .

i thought i would have to cut a hole for the stick but i was wrong .

no cuting needed ! hole for auto is the same as 5speed ...

5speed stick boot cover screws are all the same as the auto

 

wind died down

so i started painting my bay one light spray cover to another untell shes all black ..

when iam done and it drys , i will go over any and all red spots with the , black paint pen .

then thiner and rags on any spots that got hit with over spary ..

its turning out real good black hides all! i need to let i dry some over night so i can climb in there and get the back wall .

baypaint.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

clutch kit is here ! some more prep work to be done and this baby is going back in like flin:icon44:

 

got alot done today . going to slide this motor in tomarrow .

i have a list of things i need to pick up at the parts store. painted alot 0f stuff this

afternoon ,installed clutch line prep prep prep .i need a break .

friday night craps game here i come !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

slow start this moring ..just now got back from the parts store .waiting on gray and others for the the helping hand to drop this baby in ..

still got to make one more trip to the parts store didnt get the hoses for the oil cooler or fitting for the fuel rail to take out the cold start plug .

iam sure that there is something i need that i havnt thought about .hmhmhmhmhmhmhhmhmhmhmhmhmhmhm:icon56:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gray didnt get off work untell late .so we got a real late start.

but its in .it wasnt eazy . :icon56:

if your going to swap tranys from at to many make sure you keep the bell housing bolts . :redface:

there is a bit of a differnce it the shape and size of the bell housing.

The rack sits close as close can get ..i have to get a turbo hood so more air will get in for sure .

 

still need a few things befor she will be up and running ...

 

i will have a ?? or two on wiring ..

i will need to figure out the injector wiring order and color code ???????

as these wheren't marked and i will be hooking new clips into the harness........

{ i will post some pics when i get there }

 

i will still have to work on the front mounted oil cooler set up .

install drive line .and trany stuff .

 

on the vac lines will have a few ?? there as well .

yet i dont know what they are yet .

 

Theres a wire plug by the fluseable links box that i am unsure about .

it is under the panel to the left of the fuel realy ..

its five plugs on the turbo harness and three plugs on my car ...

i think you said i should just hook it color to color

yellow to yellow ,green to green, black white to black white ..

and just leave the blue wire and white wire unhooked ?

i will post a pic of this as well .iam sure you said something about this bleach but cant remeber what you said .

 

i rember what you said about the yellow tach signal wire that runs from the coil to the upper wire plug nere the ecu ,

i marked that wire .

but what of the black wire on that plug should i ground it or not ?

 

anyway turbo drivennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn !

000_0518.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

witch wire goes where ? we got yellow , white , does white go to green ?

000_0537.jpg

i remeber what you said to do .i will need to run the na temp wire to the temp sender as well so my gauge will work .but what color is that wire white or yellow ?And are the left over wires just taped off ?

wirecolors.jpg

 

now in this spot next to the fuseable links box .there are

NO PLUGS for blue and white wires ..i color matched the others

yellow to yellow green to green black white to black white .is this right? ..

but what of the blue and white wires ??

 

wirecolors-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes white is the temp sensor (top) Green to yellow. This sounds right from what I remember. My Z is tucked in for the night and i'm about ready for sleep too. My factory wires were already cut and spliced in. I cut that part out and re-did them so I had to test fit to see what worked. I'll double-check tomorrow and post at work.

 

As for the plugs by the fusable links, the white wire is some kind of control for the auxilary radiator fan that the turbo has. it tells the dash harness when to kick it in. Well, we don't have that feature. Just tape it off. My 1982 car had the blue wire but honestly you should be ok without it. I can check on it later though.

 

then when running that band of wires from the NA harness (from the driver's fender) yes one wire goes to temp. The other wires include power for the NA dizzzy and other crap. Just cut it all off. I cut mine back (never gonna use it again) and ended up only having one single wire running from the fender out to the plug. The rest taped up and tucked inside the fender tunnel behind that plastic cover that is behind the coil.

 

Two of those wires in that bundle were for the power and ground to the coil of the NA car. Re-use those. Tie those into the power and ground of the turbo coil. Those will already be turned on with your key! Then, run the one single wire (yellow?) to the ECU, blue goes to POWER from your NA harness, black goes to ground. Look at your NA setup if its still there on the coil. I believe blue wires were power. That should be right.

 

for what its worth

robturbo01.jpg

 

wires cut and simplified to just 3

robturbo02.jpg

 

I took these pics but failed to get final pics of what I made! I'm looking through the albums and there's nothing really good of the wiring.

 

on my turbo parts car I cut this plug off the dash harness. This is the dash side (turbo) of the plug that goes into the ECU/FI harness right above the ECU. I did this so I could find the correct wire, tap the one coil signal wire into it and then just 'plug' it into the harness. I like to have that removable connection. You probably have that page with the sloppy notes on what these wires are...? some other link I gave you I think.

robturbo03.jpg

 

then under the dash this is the plug it goes into

robturbo04.jpg

 

sorry for the delay. I've been busy with my own project. I'm trying to get my Pulsar on the road before the end of the month so I can drive that bad boy through the winter and finish up the Z.

 

pulsar01.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should run a hose from the J-pipe to the PRV on the #4 intake trac as indicated in this pic. This is basically your factory BOV. It will release air into the intake manifold and allow a slower spindown of the turbo. With no hose hooked up and no BOV, most likely that black plug you slipped on there will pop out anyway.

 

robturbo05.jpg

 

not to the AAC plug that is seen in the pic with the black cap on it. It is the thing that looks like a big PCV valve just hidden in this pic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok on the three wire setup (driver side ).i cut that harrness and did the same as you did .

i ran the yellow to the dash plug by the ecu . hooked it to the wire you showed me on that plug {right after the ecu }.

ran that black and white to the ground .

 

i removed the blue wire and didnt use it. where does that wire hook to ?

you said blue gos to power on the na harrness ? but where and then it would be running to what ?

 

i am pretty sure i got it right.... as long as the yellow wire you showed me

to hook it to was right ......then i should be all good .

but still unsure of the blue wire hmhhmhm .

 

as for the na power and ground to the coil blue is ground , black and white stripe is power. i know this for sure , both the na and turbo cars coils where wired this way .

 

wire002.jpg

 

on the fuseable link side .i color matched everything .and left the blue and white wires taped off .where you kidding me that {green goes to yellow} ?????

 

on the pvc intake spot i caped that off and on the j tube iam going to put my bov .it just hasnt gotten here yet . if it doesnt show up i will put the stock bov settup on ,as

you said just untell the bov getts here .

 

i gots to go to the parts store .i want to try to fire over her over this eveing ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One quick question... So why doesn't anybody here ever use the factory block cooler that the motors came with? The NA motors had them and the Turbo motors had them. Are they really that worthless? It never really gets over 100 F here and rarely over 110 F in the valley. I've had it turn on in my NA every now and then but I still don't understand how it could possible cool much. It also never came on while driving, just while sitting still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you're right! sorry... for the coil the black wire (with white stripe) is power. oops... ya. so it sounds like you got it.

 

Your NA coil wiring powers up the turbo coil as normal. That's all it needs is power. Then the yellow wire on that little side plug sends a tach signal to the ECU so it can adjust the timing advance/retard as the rpms go up.

The side plug black wire just grounds...? I think.

 

here it is the pic. It shows which connection on the harness to plug that yellow wire from the coil transistor into

turbohookup_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice nice .yes i think i have it ..

iam going o check the plug on the ecu side just to make sure but i think its right .

 

got everything i need from the parts store .clutch master will be here this afternoon .

 

i got my front mount oil cooler all setup .used high temp hose and fittings and Rv sealent to seal it ..i think it turned out well .i sealed it up real good hopfully it wont leak .

oilcooler.jpg

 

 

as for the block cooler G.mine never came on so why have it .

it never gets past 90 deg here and even when it does get to 90 deg it

only stays that way for a day or tWo out of the whole year .

on my turbo block cooler it had a plastic down pipe to suck cold air up from under the car .wierd my na did not have this .

 

going to work on my D pipe and injectors .iam pretty sure i have them in the right order .its nice they made them so you can tell witch wires go where .

still have a few more things to handle .i will be back later to let you all Know if she fires up .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×