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rossman

Ross' Sleeper Z

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Ohhh tell me what it is like havin a/c on these cars.......

That is one option that I want....... I would drive my car more if I had it. For me there are more important things I need. Like a fuel pump, cause as newton's law holds true.... Mine went out as I was about to put it on the road yesterday......

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That is looking much better. I like the new piping for the IC. I just noticed the engine mounts you are using? Also is that another pump or filter in the engine bay up on the firewall?

 

 

 

Keep up the work.....you keep me motivated! :D

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Thanks, I like it better too. The engine mounts are from McKinney Motorsports. The red cylindrical cartridge on the firewall is an Aeromotive fuel filter.

 

Speaking of fuel, I'm pretty much finished with the fuel system. All I'm lacking are some 1/4 inch fasteners for the pump mount. I'll try to escape the house this afternoon and pick up the fasteners. Pictures coming soon.

 

Thanks for tuning in :)

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I started wiring up the FI this weekend.Here is my first wiring harness...ever. It is 100% crimped using barrel connectors. I spliced the injector connectors parallel to the main power wire. The black connector pigtail is crimped onto the continuous main power wire.

 

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I almost forgot about my power supply. All EMS related power and.ground will pass thru this board. The board is made from a plastic cutting board. It slides into the right side of the passenger side foot well. I will cover it or design a a nicer enclosure in the future but it will due for now.

 

picsay-1324255408.jpg

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Was reading through your thread but didn't find the info. I am getting ready to order fuel lines for myself and someone else I need to do a swap for. I like your lines - where did purchase them. Also I know there are two types of AN fittings when dealing with braided lines....which did you go with? Also love the black fittings. I need to stay away from this thread!

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Was reading through your thread but didn't find the info. I am getting ready to order fuel lines for myself and someone else I need to do a swap for. I like your lines - where did purchase them. Also I know there are two types of AN fittings when dealing with braided lines....which did you go with? Also love the black fittings. I need to stay away from this thread!

 

I got the fuel lines from an industrial supply store in my area. It's 316L seamless tube.

 

I'm not sure what you mean about two types of AN fittings. There are different types of hose ends depending on the type of braided hose. I used Earls Pro-Lite. It uses the same hose ends as standard stainless braided hose.

 

I used a mix of Earls, XRP and Aeromotive fittings. Earls and Aeromotive black fittings are hard anodized, XRP are painted black. XRP and Aeromotive fittings are higher flowing with larger IDs and smoother internal transitions. I was very surprised when I discovered that Earls -10 fitting IDs are < .50". XRP and Aeromotive are both > .50" ID.

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Rossman, where did you get those bus bars and fuse blocks?

 

The terminal blocks are made by Fastronix. I got them from Racer Parts Wholesale. The fuse block came from Del City or Waytek, I can't remember which one. Hope that helps.

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I've been working on the Z while I'm off for the holidays. Work focuses on wiring but also tying up some loose ends like torquing down the turbo housing bolts. Gonna have to make a run to Harbor Freight (HF) to get a stubby 13mm wrench to reach some of the inner bolts. Speaking of HF, I purchased some of their "Professional" socket wrenches. Definitely higher quality than "cheap" Craftsman wrenches and at half the price. I read that Sears is closing 100+ stores early next year. Gee, I wonder why?

 

Mounting panel for the Wolf ECU, J&S Interceptor and Aeromotive Pump Speed Controller. The panel is made from an aluminum street sign that was laying in a field for several months before I decided to recycle it. All boxes are mounted with industrial strength Velcro.

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Panel and electronics installed in the glove box. Mucho wiring not shown :)

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The wires will have enough slack so that the panel can be pulled out for access to the electronics and associated connectors.

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Here is a shot of the power supply panel installed. I need to trim it to fit better...on second thought, I have some left over signage :) Not yet sure what to do with those other components hanging from their wires. What the heck are they anyway?

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A couple of turbo money shots

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Edited by rossman

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lowrider, drodz - Thanks! I appreciate the compliments.

 

garvice - Thanks for the info. I've been digging through the FSM and have not found an direct reference to those components. However, figure BE-2 calls out the connector going to the rectangular component as "Acc relay" and the wire colors going into it match the wiring diagram. The flasher wire colors match the wiring diagram for the *hazard* flasher. So, mystery solved. :)

 

I've been upgrading the charging system the last couple of days. I found that the NEW Duralast (AutoZone) "premium" cables that I intended to use for the starter wires were corroded underneath the jacket. :angry: Time to order new high quality cable from Del City...

Edited by rossman

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I took the day off today and guess what I've been working on...wiring, STILL working on wiring. I'm kinda figuring it out as I go along so it's taking a LOT longer than expected. Doesn't it always?

 

I'm finding poorly crimped and soldered wires in various locations. The fusible link to the alternator was gone. The PO installed in it's place a cold soldered connection to 10 gauge wire :shock: I'm surprised the car never went up in smoke. I wired in Maxi-fuses where the fusible links were supposed to be located and added one for the FI.

 

All of the ground terminals to structure were screwed on top of paint. :rolleyes: To those who don't know, screw threads do not make a proper ground connection. A proper ground connection involves removing the surface coating down to clean metal around the screw hole, applying dielectric grease to the exposed metal and clamping the terminal down tight. Dielectric grease is non-conductive but it will displace under clamping load, allowing metal to metal contact while still surrounding the joint with a moisture resistant seal. I always check the resistance across the joint to verify the ground is good.

 

Added 150 amp Blue Sea power and ground bus bars that connect directly to the battery. Additional ground wires were added to the rear ground, engine block, head, alternator, EFI, etc, in a "star" fashion.

 

Connected Dave's (Zs-ondabrain) headlight relay kit, 240z alternator upgrade plug (incorporates a diode) and parking light relay.

 

Installed a CS144 alternator. Removed the ammeter and replaced it with a later model voltmeter. I chose to replace the whole gauge. I like the old 240 lettering better but whatever. Here is a picture of how I rewired the gauge. The VM uses the existing power and ground from the fuel meter side of the gauge. I believe this is acceptable. If not, please let me know :).

 

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I ran a new wire from the W/B wire out of the voltage regulator connector (that now has a diode in series) to the voltmeter lamp then back to the CS144 "L" wire. I also soldered in a 470 ohm resistor in parallel with the lamp so that the alternator will still work if the lamp burns out. I learned most of what i know about this mod from rejracer's 240z Charging system upgrade thread, KTM's AC Delco/GM Alternator Swap Part 2 - CS144 Installation thread and the links in this thread.

 

On the mechanical side, I purchased some 3" and 1.5" 304 stainless mandrel bent pipe. At a minimum I need to get a screamer pipe tacked on to the wastegate outlet before the first start.

 

Anybody what to come help me learn how to weld? I'll pay you in beer :D

 

Speaking of welding...a set Baddog frame rails should be arriving tomorrow. I'll install them at some later date after I get the car moving under its own power...

Edited by rossman

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I am hoping to start her up in a couple of weeks. Anytime you can make it out would be awesome. My welder isn't exactly high end. I have a barely used Century 120 MIG. It was free. It works. We'll see how well. For consumables a full bottle of trigas and reel of .035 dia 308 stainless wire.

 

Let me know when is a good time for you and we'll set it up.

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