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Last few weeks it seems like I have been going in a dozen directions at once trying to get this build running. I made sure the rear tires clear everything at full bump. I got the exhaust fitted with heat shield and installed. Most of the heat shield is to protect the CF driveshaft. It is only rated for 300 degrees sustained temp, and while it is a few inches from the exhaust, I didn't want to take any chances. This photo shows beyond doubt that ground clearance is an issue. I honestly don't have many choices, unless I want to raise the ride height or not use a dual 3" exhaust. It really is tucked up just about as tight as it possibly can be. I have a bit less than 3" ground clearance from the lowest points of the exhaust. Definitely not daily driver material. Even oval tubing, which I used under the rear suspension, wouldn't help further forward because it would make the exhaust too wide to fit in the trans tunnel. Most of the rest of the time I have been doing suspension adjustment/alignment. I figured that since I had invested in fully adjustable suspension, that part would be a breeze. Wrong again... In order to get 6-7 degrees of caster, recommended by most knowledgeable "Z" people for track oriented cars, I needed longer tension rods, to move the LCA pivot 1.5" forward, to move the sway bar mounts 1.5" forward, smaller washers for the upper strut mount (the spherical bearing was binding), to cut off a portion of the aluminum "chin" undertray, and most horrifyingly, I still need to cut up my already painted front fenders to clear the further-forward front wheels. Adjusting bump steer to zero required more spacing than I would have liked for the tie rods, but it clears the wheels and I am sure it will be OK....even though it looks at bit alarming. To cover all bases I used NAS 180K PSI "shear bolts" and lock nuts which cost stupid money but hopefully will be up to the task. Made front and rear brackets for toe strings. I know this can be done with jack-stands or other simpler methods, but I have tried that and the constant bumping and having to reset them was brain damage for me. These things bolt on in a couple of minutes any time I need to check or adjust toe. Final alignment settings, as of now: Camber: -2.5 front, -2.0 rear. Caster: 6.5 degrees. Toe: Zero front, 1/16" toe in rear. These settings were taken directly from JohnC's post from years ago, and are just a starting point while I am breaking in the engine and ironing out what I am sure will be a bunch of hiccups when I get the car running. Hybridz is such a great resource. I would have had no idea where to start without it. Thanks for looking.