GTZ

How do you like the twin disc clutch?

If you still can go and return that welder and get the commercial grade instead of that Home Depot brand. The HD stands for home depot not heavy duty. I have a Miller syncrowave 250, Millermatic 200 (does all my heavy gauge stuff) and lincoln 135 plus (my work horse). Go and buy a 140 lincoln or miller from a regular weld shop and you will be much happier.

I hope you can drive better than you park. lol. Let me know if you need me to post my car for sale and give me those wheels.

I don't but that's half the fun. lol

I would like to try some slicks on my car as well. I haven't seen a set of tail lights yet on street tires.

This was before the new tires were installed. This was just trying out the new 3.70 diffs. First official race against a 2jz before changing the wastegate and BOV to snapse. I will post the brake pics really soon.

I got tired of looking at that bulky booster and decided to rip it all out and the pedal assembly was also removed. I went with Wilwood dual master cylinder and dual pedal assembly. I haven't seen it done on a Z yet but it was fairly painless besides converting the metric to standard brake lines. Its fun playing around with the brake bias and I set it semi mild. I made my own on the fly brake bias set up using the stock Z speed cable cut to length and machined shift knob for the adjusting knob. I'll update on the feel and feedback as soon as i get it on the road.

Step 1. Locate your Options-2Step Limits table Step 2. Change your 2Step Retard Rev 3000 rpm Step 3. Change your 2Step Ignition Cut 3800 rpm You set the fuel cut high as you don't use a fuel cut for your application. A serious no no for forced induction cars. You set it up using vss so just read the guide and its easy to setup. I will mess with aem tuner and let you know on the next few steps for fine tuning it.

Hi temps in anything isn't good but when using anti-lag over long period (over 12 seconds at time) not only creates rapid heat but also creates load shock. Anti lag works by miss firing the cylinders (fuel cut and ign cut) and pulling back timing at the same time (simple explanation for the complex process). Its puts all kinds of negative and positive load on all the internals very rapidly. The exhaust pulse created by pulling timing and miss firing is what spools the turbos. These pulses are not uniform and when engaged over a long period actually causes some major deflection starting on the turbine side and by the time it reaches the compressor side, things go boom even breaking the shaft. I gathered these information from talking to AEM tech support and 2 AEM certified tuners locally and getting in to extensive detail. Some of it went over my head.

ZTR how are you doing? Did you fix the crank collar issue on your motor? I run the anti lag just using the vss and even though I have fixed the crank collar problem, i am not using hard cut at all. Hard cut is lethal on the motor and mostly your turbo and oil pump. Do a 1 or 2 setting on your redline cut off. Its pretty simple to set the anti lag using your vss, just follow the instruction on the help menu. For a launch setup start 2step Retard Rev at 3k rpm as the start and 2step Ignition Cut at 3800rpm. Now depending on your 2step Rev Limit setting you will spool standing still as you step on the gas. Once again try to keep the Rev Limit numbers down as it is very hard on your motor and turbo. I have seen the compressor wheels shredded due to hard cut anti-lag setting on Evos due to the deflection of the turbine shaft and the blades shredding on the compressor housing.

Before and after, not done yet. I'll put up some new pics with the new coilovers and better stance.

Stance is only selling the adapter tubes and the can price it with a set but no camber plates. I don't know why so many guys are knocking on megans when they are reasonably priced, come complete and work pretty well. AZC setup is also thought out and tested. One thing that you guys didn't ask stance is rebuilding shocks because it will make you cringe as its a little north of $300 each. something to think about

iam already running the ford one on my car and it works good. make sure you get the wiring right. Green - tps output signal. Black- ground. RED or Orange- 5 vdc VRef

I changed all my bolts to allen heads from ace hardware. most of the small bolts are M6 and M8 with 1.25 pitch in different lengths. I would be much easier the just replace those missing stuff from a hardware store than searching for oem. I would like the lovefab manifold if you decide to go stock. good luck

My friends run bf goodrich R1 and rave about it.

RB26DETT best performance japanese engine period. Great after market help and part availability. staying nissan and amazing sound. A true race bred engine with numerous wins under its belt on the professional circuit. I'd pick an rb26 over any 2jz any day. just my thought

go with RCI or Simpson much cheaper. I have a 4 point RCI and love it. I use just the lap belt for around town and all four when on the high way or track. Stick with the 4 point roll bar for your application. I'll put some pics up of my roll bar

all types of v8s have been stuffed into the s30 bay and this would be a new addition if you do it. see if you can get that ecu checked or get the price for the replacement before purchasing the motor. If its shot you can use the replacement cost to chip away at the selling price. good luck

Its ALIVE its really ALIVE i can't believe that I got it ALIVE. I am excited aem ecm arrived today. got all the wires squared away and its awesome. it runs smooth. need to set base timing. damn this things is great

I had a very rare draw through set up with a 600cfm holley in front. The Manifold was one of a kind. I'll try to find some pics. I know that demon makes a carb for blow through set up but they are expensive. What I've had success with is building a air box for the carbs and they work well. Highly recommend a wideband as tuning will be easier that way. Don't get too big a carb or you will run very rich at idle and cruising and real nightmare for wot. no use going bigger than 600.If you really want a one off setup, go with triple mik or web whatever you prefer and build a airbox in the front. It will be like the "cartech" (not sure of the name) devil z style. I will do another z in the future with a blow through setup using triples. If you don't know how to read spark plugs than get a chart as it will be another key tuning tool.

the software with that ecm has a list of all the injectors out there and you just click on the one you have. If its not listed there you can call aem and they will take care of you. pretty straight forward.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/series-2-ems-for-skyline-r33-w-rb26det-605 The series 2 has a built in p&h driver. you won't need any external resistors to run low impedance injectors. I might upgrade to the series 2 in the future.