brianZortiz

make sure you get a diff to match it. I am using 3.36 on 83 tranny becuase my 3.7 lsd is at the shop, and wow the acceleration is real slow.

I'll email you In bit.

I don't want to sell I'm looking for a trade but if I decide to sell I'll let you know.

I am looking for r180 LSD or open diff and/or 3.90 r200. I am located in Los Angeles CA 90057. I have a 3.70 LSD off a z31 turbo that I will be willing to trade for a 4.11 LSD or 3.90 LSD. Thanks -Brian

The 280z r200 didn't come with LSD. But the parts you need for swap are going to be from a 280z. Mustache bar, yoke, and side stub shafts.

I'm needing an r180 or r200 diff in Los angles. I looking for any gearing as it's going to be for use for about a month. Must be in good mechanical condition. Locally please. Call/text/email. (213)344-7130 brianzkills@yahoo.com -Brian

The clutch kit doesn't match up with flywheel or what doesn't match up? There are two versions of flywheels diameters 225 and 240.

I looked over Other LSDs pictures and it looks to seem everything is in place. I didn't see any broken pieces. The teeth seem in great condition. From what you are telling me JMortensen I think it was because my pinion nut was not torqued down. I am going to call hoopers rear end exchange and tomorrow and have them look over it thoroughly.

Ok I'll get some up tonight. When I turn by hand the diff at one turn point it Is hard to move then I give it 360• turn and the same turn point it gets hard to turn again.

There's seems to be nothing broken or strange when I opened diff up. On the right side of diff there are 2 rings sticking out one black and the other champagne. The champagne o e sticks out further and is of smaller diameter of black one. Does it suppose to be like that? If I can't find anything should I go in further inside the diff?

Ok. Sucks it happend 1 day before MSA show.

Drove it With added gear oil and it's still makes noise. Similar to a worn out/broken wheel bearing but louder. When I let of throttle the diff grinds in single sound without any noise pauses.

I'm using 260z u joints with 280z stubs. I checked the oil and the drain plug had metal shavings on it. It also seems that I was only using about 1 liter of gear oil. Well in reverse the car locked up once but doesn't anymore. The yoke Was actually not torqued down. It was impacted in with gun. I jacked car, both wheels in the air and tires spin freely but in passenger rear noise comes out from there. The diff ran great on street and this was my first time on freeway and it locked up when I was at 55mph. And prior to this I installed my clsd brace to run finned cover. It was welded on before and now has the holes drilled.

I have 3:70 clsd of a 300zx on my 260z and I was driving the car on the freeway on 5th (close ratio 5speed 280zx) and suddenly the car stops like of someone slammed the brakes. I pulled to the shoulder and visually inspected the car and nothing seemed wrong. I turned the car back on to drive and it drove but made a noise on the right rear. As I increase in speed the noise gets louder. I got home and thoroughly checked it and it seems like the noise is coming from differential. Is it ok to drive it? And is my differential gone?

How do you like the Cosmo racing coilovers? Did you section to install?

The shifter pin has to be seated correctly. Once it is fitted and seated the pin should stick out in the other end were it has a seat for a "C" clip. Make sure you have a clip.

Look up many variations on eBay, there are some eBay post describing it wrong or typos. I found one for $350 shipped. I think I got a great deal.

I got it. It was a bad mechanical fuel pump. The bogging was fixed by enriching the carbs. I bypassed electrical pump. It works great now.

I did put around 2 gallons of fuel in the tank to try to start her up. How do I check if my fuel lines are switched? Thanks for reply!

I bought an early 74 260z with flat top Su Carbs,I had a 73 240z but sold it because of its condition. The 73 had dual webbers, that ran well and i learned to tune and adjust them. The 260z that i have now has been stored since 1996 in a garage. It is all stock with flat top carbs and the P.O told me in order to start car I need to put drops of fuel into carbs. I went ahead to change into a 5 speed transmission from an 83 280zx and a CLSD 3.70, this motivated me to find some earlier type round top SU's. I never turned the car on with the flat top carbs. The round top Su conversion was fairly simple, I kept my n36 intake and switched balance tubes from the early carbs. I blocked unnecessary lines and hooked up fuel lines and booster vacuum line. I finished everything within a couple of days, now it was time to start the car. I tried to start the car with staring fluid and it ran for 2 seconds. I did this for 10 times till i gave up. I went ahead and did research. I checked my mechanical fuel pump and the lines from electrical fuel pump to mechanical pump were dry. I hooked the line back up and removed the valve cover and pumped the mechanical pump using my hands. I did this for a total of 10 minutes and no fuel coming out of line. I then tried another method of adding fuel to bowls and hoping the mechanical pump will start to pump. The car ran for a total of 5 minutes till it died. I checked the line from tank to mechanical pump and it was still dry. I filled the bowls again and it ran for another 5 minutes, I tried to rev car but it dies down. I then go back to mechanical pump and its still dry. I changed the fuel filter just 2 days ago before start attempt, and fuel is getting to filter. I am assuming the fuel lines are clogged or the mechanical pump or electrical pump are not working. I not sure what to do now and why is the car bogging out?

Los Angeles CA 90057

Bump. Still need them.

I got one with no cracks or fade.

Hey thanks Tyler. I actually found two things that I need. Thanks again.

Hi, I'm looking for 82-83 turbo dizzy off of an l28et. I'm am not looking for 81 since my engine is off of an 82. In good working condition. Thank You. brianZortiz