240Z Turbo

Lockjaw, as a part of this deal I will also be including a new heavy duty Lokar throttle cable kit. However, you will need to send me your TB so I can hook everything up. It is the same unit I use on my car and it is very nice. About $40 from Summit + shipping. Also, I will include the Lokar throttle cables on all manifolds and if you can send me your TB I will hook it up so you are ready to go.

Just finishing a batch of 5 intakes. Any suggestions/comments are welcome. I have posted it under the 4-sale section. I can also do them with full radius velocity stacks on the inside. I need one other beta tester who has dyno access and a stout setup to do some comparisons for me of before/after. Price will be $450+shipping for beta tester, otherwise $600 shipped.

BTW, I don't know about tuning full boost stuff to 12.5:1. Even most of the Honda Turbo and other turbo stuff we dyno it never goes leaner than 12.2:1. I think with the combustion chamber design you should try to stay atleast 12:1. If you are more conservative on the timing you can go leaner, but I personally like more timing and more fuel. I typically tune my setup to 11.6:1 or so. BTW, my buddies turbo mustang runs 11.6:1 for max power and it recently ran 7.78@180.

Adam, typically you do not want to have such big swings in your VE #'s as this indicates your IOT and TOG are not set correctly. Let us say your VE at full boost and high rpm is .5 and you run a TOG of 8. In order not to have such big changes in your VE values you should change your TOG value to 8+[.5 x 8]=12. In your case it would be 8+[.35 x 8]=10.8. I typically just set my TOG to about 11 or so. You should also have the firing set to alternating divide by 1. Now, you should not be having to take out 35% at idle either. Set the TOG to 11 and clear the VE table. With the VE table zero'd lower the IOT until it gets your idle close. BTW, you can have negative values for IOT and mine is currently to about -1.375. With the newly set IOT and TOG values your VE table should have much smaller changes from idle to WOT. Although you can use big corrections as you have, +/- 35% it is not the best method. Anyway, this does not cure your idle issue. There is nothing wrong with idling the car at 18:1 if the car idles well at 18:1. My car will idle and cruise at 16:1-17:1 all day long. From what I have seen with OEM cars they sit in the 15.5:1-16:1 when idling and cruising. Here is a good question, how much vacuum are you getting at idle with this cam?

I was just kidding. It is all for fun and a chance to meet new folks and drink some beer.

what idle issues are you having? Perhaps I can give advice

when I see that in my dreams it is a quad turbo setup

Well, I'm definitely gonna spank that ass right off the track. Just look for the yellow twinturbo 240z.

Adam, hit the track with that thing. I want to see what you can do with 480cc injectors, stock dp and internal wg. BTW, good mph(124) with a heavier car.

I was just kidding

I will buy it from you. I can always use a spare. I have one spare already.

That is a stupid idea

How much?

Yes, going the c4 route. it weighs cosiderably less. I just did not want to run into packaging issues as I don't feel like doing any more mods to the chasis. I am machining a template so that I can transfer over the new boltpattern to the Jatco bellhousing. It also requires me to machine a 1/16" ring to help center the bellhousing about the pump. It will use stock 280zxt flexplate and converter front cover. The pump side of the converter will be for the C4 with the correct height. The Jatco bellhousing is about 1/2" thicker so it should not create any issues for getting the converter made.

BASTARD, you took my site!

05L, I believe. I have one in my closet and can look later to verify. Ports are very small in comparison.

yes, Reynolds, GA. Where you there 2 Fridays back? I may drive up this saturday to watch the NOPI event as my buddies SR20dET'd RX7 will be competing. Finally got the bottom end built so should see some easy 10's.

Yowsa....just click below BTW, really nice custom fuel rail you go there! http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/timz/

I will be making custom intake manifolds for the L28 for you turbo guys. I will take the stock manifold and chop it 1.5" off the flange to retain the injector mounts. I will deck it in the mill and bore the ports to match the gasket. I can also leave it stock if needbe. I will then weld 1.375" ID(16G) tubing to the flange and on the other end a custom plenum. I will also port the inside of the runners for a smooth transition. The TB will be for a stock unit. However, you can send me your TB if other than Nissan and I will make the plate to fit your TB. It will have 1x 1/4 NPT hole for the brake booster and 5x 1/8 NPT holes for misc. vacuum lines. This will be on the back of the plenum. I should have the 1st 4 done by next week and will post pics. They will sell for $600. Please give me some feedback if you are interested.

As you may know I blew up my intercooler and toasted my tranny 2 weeks back racing in Reynolds. Well, I chopped off the tanks and welded on new ones. The big kicker is I rebuilt the Jatco 4-speed auto myself. Was not too difficult, just wish I had a larger work area. I installed my new Kevlar bands for 2nd gear and OD. Drove it around tonight and after about 30minutes I got on it. Spins the nitto's on the street and hits 2nd gear pretty hard. Anyway, just excited to be driving again. My next focus will be swapping in a C4 tranny.

It surely is fun machining a billet flange, but glad to see your car will be running again.

714/1.6=446hp ~ roughly Doesn't mean it will not support more, just decreased efficiency and more pressure drop.

Sell it, interested? You would want to have a rebuild done on it, but the valve body mods are done and it has a custom converter/driveshaft. It will all bolt up, but would require you to fab a tranny mount