240Z Turbo

Here is a timing map I developed for an SR20DET. It is much more aggressive than you want to run under boost, but gives you an idea on how to structure a curve. This was with a large/efficient intercooler and large turbo(62-1). The 2nd picture is of the timing curve I used to run on my L6 motor. You can see I ramp out the timing very quickly and then taper it off to maximum boost.

I've got a solid mid-low 11 second car with 9 of the last 10 passes in the 11's on drag radials with 60ft times averaging in the 1.8-1.9 range with 2x 1.66's. In the process of doing my tranny swap(powerglide) as this is probably the source of my problem...no topend power. Anyway, I think I can have a solid mid-high 10s car on drag radials.

Miller Syncrowave 250 with external Miller Coolmate 3 water cooler. Oh yea, my $3200 TIG welder has arrived.

Contact Donna, I believe she found a source. Otherwise, $22 for custom ones. They are .080" shorter than the non P90/P79 valves.

Can be done, been there many-a-time!

I should have jumped in long ago. For starters, the tow(not toe) size relates to the grouping of the individual fiber strands(cross-section). Each tow is made up of hundreds-thousands of individual fiber strands. So, if you have a woven fabric, the tow is the fiber bundle that is woven with the other fiber bundles. Some tows can be round, some can be very flat, some are very big and some are very small. Carbon is good for forming(depending on the fabric architecture) because its intra-ply and inter-ply frictions are usually lower than that of glass fiber, even more so when resin is added. Flat tow's will require less force to create fabric shear and will give a much smoother surface finish. So, for small complex parts you can use a 10-12oz plain weave carbon fiber. For structural parts you will want to use a heavier fiber. The plain weave fibers typically give a much cleaner surface finish over knitted(non-crimp) fibers when using hand layup and the lighter, smaller weaves, <12 oz also give much better surface quality. This is because the weave surface is more fine as opposed to a heavier fiber with a more course mesh. The fiber volume fraction will also dictate the part finish. Excess resin will fill in the imperfections of the mesh surface creating a real glossy look. However, you must realize the strength of a composite part is the sum of its components and their interactions. Resin itself is very brittle and fiber itself has no rigidity, but combine them together and you have a very strong part. Knowing that resin is brittle, reducing the resin content within your part will increase the strength of your part. If you can achieve >60% fiber volume you will have a very strong part. Vacuum bagging, diaphragm forming, VaRTM are all methods to achieve nice parts, but require more skill and knowledge over hand layup. BTW, I am defending my dissertation November 10th with my research being in composites manufacturing. I guess that will make me Dr. 240Z Turbo

Well, as most machinists go, he too is not prompt, but has been frank that he has yet to do the testing. He was held up a bit because he needed to create a jig specific to the 86-88mm bore commonly used on our engines. I hope to hear something new by the end of next week.

Adapter Plate finished, accepting orders. Look in the 4-sale section.

The highway gearing will be no different than stock in 1973. The glide ratio in 2nd gear is 1:1 as was the stock 240z tranny in 4th gear, also 1:1. I admit OD is nice, but how often do I drive the car on long trips? That damn plastic seat hurts my ass

You should tig all your pipes. One note, you MUST grind off the aluminized material before you weld or it can make the weld look like ass. If you want to tack them all and send them to me I can have them professionally TIG welded for no more than $100. It is important your fitup is very tight or it can make the weld look like ass when using TIG. MIG welding usually likes a small gap so you can assure proper penetration. Let me know in an e-mail if you would like help.

UPDATE: Plate is a go and will cost about $300. Gear reduction type starter must be used as it does not have the snout that extends into the bellhousing. This allows the hole in the plate for the starter to be much smaller allowing enough material for the tranny dowel pin to be used. It was slighty overlaping the stock starter hole. I am shipping them the raw material to save some cost and it should be ready by Friday next week. I will post pics. Nah, nah, nah, nah, nah...nah, I'm gonna have a powerglide

Sorry, I was supposed to call him Friday to get some results. He has been waiting for some lexan tubing to simulate the 280zxt bore. Trust me, I am on this one and when I hear something you will know!

UPDATE: The company received the plate and bellhousing yesterday. Preliminary layup shows an overlap with the starter and dowel locator for the powerglide tranny. We believe we have an easy fix for this. Take one of the other bolt holes as a locator point using a bushing so a bolt can still be passed through the hole. The company said they would let me know something by Thursday. I will keep you updated. BTW: The plate will be made from 1/2" aluminum.

If I do it, the glide will be what I run. BTW, how much for just the bellhousing on that Maxima Tranny?

Well, although I drilled the 280zxt bellhousing for the C4 it turns out I will have to use the Maxima bellhousing because it is bigger. There is no stock app converter for a C4 that fits into the 280zxt bell. I may still do the C4 swap, but have sent out my bellhousing and nissan pattern plate to a company to make the adapter plate to mate the GM/Olds tranny to the nissan L28 engine. I sent the stuff out today so I will be next week before he gives me a quote on how much. It should be under $200/per for the initial 2 plates I am having made. Will keep you updated. If the height differences for the flexplate/converter are not too far off I have found a company that will also make a custom flexplate(non-SFI) so this is a boltup affair. I will also need to determine what application OEM glide converter I want to use. This will keep the costs down for a converter.

The pump is good to about 500RWHP. I ran 1 of these pumps on my car and went 129.6mph in the 1/4. That is about 475RWHP. Good pump and I have had no problems.

It is an R200, but it is much shorter than the early Z R200's. Can you use this cover on your R200? The answer is.........perhaps. The only difference on this cover is the bolt holes are larger than that of our covers so you would need to use some bushings to center the bolts onto the holes. I know this because I have one of these diffs from a 90+ 300zx N/A and I compared it to our R200 cover and it is the same except for the hole size. BTW, it should be a VLSD.

Well, I usually say I won, but not this time. 18psi on pump gas and no nitrous. I will get straight to the point, not only did this guy pull me, but when he passed me he did a wheelie. I guess he wanted to rub it in. He obviously was a bike enthusiast and had the this thing hop'd up a bit. He didn't blow past me, but it was clear who was going to win!

UPDATE, drilling the maxima bellhousing will only work with the C4 swap. I took my 280zxt bellhousing and checked it against the powerglide pump and it will not work. The glide pump is much larger and the mounting holes have a much larger bolt circle than the Jatco 3N71B/4N71B pump. The best option for the glide is to make an adapter plate. I brought along my datsun plate that has the L28 pattern and centered it on the glide bellhousing. The starter will be able to attach to the adapter plate in the stock location and not interfere with the glide bellhousing.

Advanced adapters won't touch it. You have 2 options and they are as follows. 1) Buy the midplate for the chevy/olds pattern and overlay the nissan pattern. This will allow the midplate to bolt to the nissan block and the GM tranny bolts to the midplate. 2) Drill new mounting holes onto the Jatco 4N71B Maxima bellhousing for it to bolt to the powerglide case. You will be required to cut off the GM bellhousing. This is what Mustang guys do to run the glide. It must be the Maxima bellhousing and not the 280zxt Jatco 3N71B housing as this housing is too small, unless you want to purchase a custom $1K converter. In both instances you will have to work out the converter clearances, but option 2 seems easier to me because you can use the stock starter and flexplate. You can also use an inexpensive GM converter and all that is required is an adapter to mate the GM converter to the 280zxt flexplate. Option 1 converter/flexplate setup has several options.

http://www.scoop.co.nz/mason/stories/HL0307/S00065.htm

send me a couple to my yahoo account and I will post them. That was fast!

Patience young grasshopper