240Z Turbo

FYI, I have one of those L20turbo heads. The casting is 05L

the tangential T4 has a v-band clamp which this is not. The on-center t4 housing has a 4bolt flange, but the bolt holes are evenly spaced 90deg apart. You can see from the pic those holes are more in a rectangular configuration. I used to run 3.5" dp on my T64 because you could get the V-band in that size. Can't say it will make much difference over 3" with such a small turbine outlet...but it sure looks cool.

do you have a 4bolt flange off the back of your turbo or is it the 5bolt funky pattern nissan thing. Also, SFP.net can get you the flange.

Yes, it is a wideband. The 5-wire is the NTK and the 4-wire is the bosch LSM-11 or the LSU-4. The 4-wire uses temperature compensation instead of varying a current in the pump cell like the NTK. It is all good and is what my buddy has on his setup. BTW, you CANNOT use this type of sensor with the tech as you have NO WAY to account for the temperature compensation. For example, a .88V output might be 11.5:1 at 1300F, but at 1500F the .88V may represent 10.5:1. You have to have the tables for the O2 to decipher the meaning of the voltage vs EGT at the sensor.

Well, it says $20 for crew/spectator, but I don't know if that will allow us to park in the pits. Racer/car is $60 for the 2days whether you run just Sunday only. Car show is $45 if we can enter that way. I will play it by ear when I arrive.

Ran the car around the block for about 15 minutes today and all seems well. Ran the car up to 15psi for a short burst and seems to come on fairly quick. I did notice it was running much leaner and the program was from my old setup. That is good because it tells me the new setup is moving more air than before. I will not be able to run it in Gainesville because I have no time for tuning. My wife and I celebrate our 3yr anniversary tomorrow and my buddy with the dyno leaves Wednesday morning for a boat race in Mexico. DOH, no wideband to tune with until he returns. Well, I will drive the car to the race on Sunday if anyone wants to come down and hang out. I will do some datalogging on Wednesday to verify the spoolup is actually a bit quicker with this setup. YEEHAW!

Well, I run twin 16G turbo's which are equivalent to a standard t3 wheel as used in the 280zxt. You will be hard pressed to get full boost by 3200rpm, but it would make for a nice twinturbo setup in my opinion.

Our cost on the merge, 304SS, was about $260 and was purchased from Specialty Products Design. Same place I purchased my material as well as the material for the SR20DET'd RX7. I wish I could fab a merge like that. Solar Flux B is said to be 95% as effective as purging. It forms a barrier inside the pipe so the weld does not oxidize. Burns is more expensive and they do not have a mandrel bending machine, hence the increased prices for bends. We opted to let SPD provide us the optimal header specs: 25" primaries - 1.75" tubes collector exit - 2-5/8" tapered to 3" exhaust

Yes, all TIG welded with Solar Flux B on the inside instead of purging.

304SS for my buddies N/A Honda Drag car. Equal length, 25" 1.75" primaries.

Thanks Bob and Stony. One thing to consider about using a stronger diff in the rear...the ratios need to match that of the front diff. I am sure it is in the 4.## range. You can always run varying diameter tires to compensate. As far as sectioning the diff. That should not be difficult at all from what I have seen. I looked over the RB very carefully while in New Zealand as a shop had on on an Engine stand. I fell in love! FYI, I started my car today. Ran for 30sec and then died. DOH, didn't have time to figure it out as I am fabbing a 304SS header for my buddies Honda N/A race car. Will post some pics tomorrow when finished!

Ok, if I can't find a way to control a stupid pump and perhaps some valves I am an engineering retard. No offense to you Bob, but my philosophy is this. If someone says it cannot be done, they are most likely just too lazy to try! That is in no reference to you. I don't car about traction control, I only want to adjust the ratio of drive front/rear. I could be wrong, but I will dig deeper when the time comes. Someone posted a pic earlier and the output flanges are dead center on the engine, between the #3 and #4 cylinders. That would mean my engine would be sitting where the radiator normally goes in order for the cv's to line up with the wheels. It may be necessary depending on the location of the gear shifter on the tranny. Otherwise the pan must be sectioned and the diff moved forward.

I made all that you see from downpipes, IC piping, intake, 321SS Header, yada yada yada. Without starting the whole debate over, I feel the smaller combustion chamber is better for several reasons and will outflow a P90 anyday of the week, $ for $. BobH, I did not see your post, but have been looking into this for several years loosely. It was my impression that the transfer case(FWD) was activated by pumping fluid to it. Skylines can turn off the FWD portion with some electronics...varying the flow of the pump. As far as the swap, the pan will 1st have to be sectioned to move the front diff forward aligning it with the front wheels. Next a custom engine mount will need to be fabbed. I am probably going to semi-graph the front GTR subrame into the Z. Things like this no longer scare me as I have been working in a machine shop for 5 years now and have a good idea of how to get things done....custom fab that is. For a small fee, $1, I will share any and all info on this swap when I start! Besides, I have smart friends like TimZ to help when I get stuck!

Wow, so many questions. First, the turbo's are the same as before 2x Mitsubishi 16G's (7cm). The tranny is still the same Jatco 4N71B with the same torque converter as before. There have been no changes to the block or head since the old setup. So, the only thing that has changed are the manifolds (intake & exhaust). As you may know, the old exhaust manifold cracked and was made from 304SS. Although it can be repaired, I opted to redo the manifold out of 321SS and utilize a header design that would minimize the risk of cracking. To do this I needed to place bends in each of the tubes before it reached the turbo. This would help to absorb the thermal expansion which is also reduced by using the better 321SS material. I also used the fancy merge collectors which are a critical area which is prone to cracking. Because of the longtube design(24"-26" primaries) I could no longer use my custom intake. That is what necessitated the construction of the new intake. The new intake has slightly longer runners than before and full radius velocity stacks. See comparison pic below. I am about to graduate this summer so with a job will come better mods. Most likely the bottom end will be rebuilt with forged rods instead of raceprepped 240Z rods and the head will be swapped for an E88 or N42 unit and heavily ported. I want to get in the 275cfm range. I will also swap to some bigger 20G turbo's and swap to the 200R4 GN tranny. I want to get this car into the 9's before starting on my next project...AWD RB26 powered 240Z. BTW, the old setup made about 475@wheels and this new setup should produce an honest 525-550hp@wheels and see some 135-137mph trap speeds. OLD NEW

My buddies shop will beat most prices you will find on the Tripple throttle body injection. You can fab your own rail as I fabbed one for TimZ, but it is much easier to just buy one and they are very nice. Call my buddies shop and ask for Shaun. Tell him to give you the Thagard Discount of Z folks. Shaun 850-671-1596

I am running the VLSD from an 88SS Turbo. Both wastegate dumps go back into the DP as seen below. I will be driving the car to gainseville in 2 weeks for the import world nationals. I may make a pass while I am there if the car has been retuned with the nitrous for this new setup. BTW, just giving you hell Scottie. I don't stand a chance without some slicks.

Next week it will come alive. If you feel the ground shake that was me starting the motor.

I commented to this guy on Zcar.com. Classic case of 600hp@wheels and 120mph timeslip. It just doesn't JIVE! I make about 474hp@wheels, 100hp less, but was able to run 129.65mph?????? Don't believe the hype!

Wow, your crazy!

I had swapped the brake master cylinder in my car to a 17/16" brake master from a 90-91 300zx(N/A or TT). I was using the stock proportioning valve and noticed on the dyno that when I used the brake the back would not stop. I learned these master cylinders are internally proportioned. So I just bypassed the stock proportioning valve and splitter and made my own break lines(3/16") with metric fittings on one end and standard on the ends where I used the "T." I also added in a Wilwood mechanical proportioning valve for the rear. I will let you know the results if I ever get the car running again!

No offense, but the flux core stuff is hard to make right. You should be able to mig with no problems as long as the heat is set right. Don't be afraid to use the trigger to stop/start so you don't get too much heat. Also, you should be pushing the weld as it gives better control in my opinion. However, with TIG you have no worries and are assured a good weld.

As mentioned earlier the long block, block and head only, are bone stock. Now, at 21psi on pump gas, NO NITROUS, the car made 345hp@wheels on our Mustang Dyno. We purchased HKS 264 step 2 cams, HKS springs and rocker arm stopper. With no other modifations other than cams we redynoed the car at 21psi and NO NITROUS. The car gained 51hp@wheels and about 34ft-lbs@wheels. So final results were 396hp@wheels. The car ran 7.4@100.7mph at 23psi and 50shot nitrous. Today after the new cams we ran the car again. 21psi and NO NITROUS the car went 7.6@98mph.

Why would they leak? They are all TIG welded. Clean material makes for a clean weld. Are you refererring to the IC piping?