240Z Turbo

the oval exhaust is by spin tech and is called 3.5" oval. It has the same cross-sectional area as a 3.5" round exhaust. The dimensions are 2.5"(tall)x4"(wide). The merges into a custom Stainless piece I made. It merges to 6"x1.75" and then splits into two pipes infront of each tire. The outlet pipes are 4.25"x1.75". I welded it all solid today and it bolts up perfectly. It was my only cure for room because my Auto tranny is very bulky and my engine is also pushed back 1" by my solid motor mounts. I did that to give myself more room for an electric fan. I only lack the following before it is running: -Hook up my new Wideband O2 setup to the Tech -Pressure test custom fuel cell -finish rewiring the Tech -wire up Electric fan to relay and thermo-switch -remount fuel filter & fuel pump I hope to start it, not driving, this weekend and break in the new Web cam.

You can get a brand new Garrett unit, t3/t4 to your specifications for $650. This is a new unit and you do not need to provide a core. Majestic Turbo, 800.231.5566. Ask for Robert or Kevin and tell them James from FL sent you. It will hopefully save you $25-$50.

Have my car at any shows? Chuckle...Yea, the Macco turd paintjob convention! My car is NOOOO showcar by a longshot. It is straight and has no rust, but that is about it. The engine setup looks neat and trick I will give it that. Anyway, the plan is to start it up next weekend. I only lack welding the exhuast solid and pressure testing my new fuel cell. The engine is finished.

Derek, You can give me a call and I can walk you through some basics. I can also try to dig up and old program when I used the 440cc with a 60-1 and large front mount. For now, here is a timing curve. You may not want to ramp out the timing so fast, but that is a tradeoff with timing/fuel in the 95-120kpa region. Also, 26deg at 18psi might be a bit much, but if you have a jumbo front mount you may be able to get away with it. Remember, this is only a reference and you need to listen for ping/detonation. I am not responsible for your setup if you use this!

The exhaust is like this on both sides of the car. Better view of how it is run. Mockup is finally complete and all fits well. Just need to weld it all solid now. You can see how I merged the 2 downpipes into 1 I had to show my new 10mm Magnecore plug wires!

My buddies Turbo Honda uses a Switzer Compressor wheel as it has more blades that is supposed to spool faster and provide more topend power. The wheel was initially on a diesel tractor and now on a Honda. BTW, 554hp@wheels with 30psi.

New Pics

Here is the link for the reducer hose: Reducer Hose I can get the T-bolt clamps local for $3.25-$4.00 depending on size. If you give me specific external dimensions of your connecting hose I can get you the clamp you need. It is important to be very specific on the OD of your turbo hose as these style clamps don't allow for alot of variation so they must be sized correctly. For example, my 2.5" intercooler pipe is connected with a silicone hose whose outside diameter is 2.88". So I must by a 288 T-bolt clamp. Be glad to help just let me know.

How do I keep from working on it??? HMMMM! Wife, daughter, money, school...etc. Actually, I am being anal this time around about everything. I told myself I wanted everything the way it should be the 1st time. The engine is complete minus my 10mm Magnecore wires. I also have to run the exhaust which is partially complete. I have to mod my tranny mount for the exhaust to better clear. I just finished installing my 6pt cage and fabbing my 14.7Gallon aluminum fuel cell. I also installed all my new vinyl and carpet that I had purchased from Classic Datsun a few years back. What else??? My K&N filters will finally be here this Thursday from 1month back order from Summit along with my Lokar throttly cable kit. So close I can taste it! I have also completed my wide band unit for Electromotive that uses the 5-wire NTK sensor. With the help of my Dad and TimZ we modded the circuit to give an output of 0-1V. I will test it this weekend. So close, yet so far away!

Yep, TimZ is making 430rwhp on pump gas. Todd K. told me his car made 500rwhp on race gas and 22psi. My car made...well, it isn't running yet! Hoover just sent me a message saying he would have his stuff dynoed with big boost later this week. Get a healthy turbo and run some big boost and you are making big power. Not quite, but you get the idea. I think ole TimZ would be knocking on the 500rwhp if he would only make a header. That is probably the most exciting thing for my new twinturbo setup. Besides having over 1000cfm flow @15psi from the twins, the 1.75" primaries on the turbo header should be brutal for flowing. Oh I can't wait.

is used with the idealz bracket? I think it was a GM remy, but what specific information do I need to know?

What oil pan did you run on your RB26 and was it a direct boltup?

pp, you are correct. At the same dynamic compression, a lower static compression motor will make more power.

Well, I ran 120.2mph, but only a 12.2 because of a crappy 2.14 60ft. Scottie calculated something like 362hp@wheels. BTW, are you using the "Stealth" method for determining the hp@flywheel. There is no way you are losing 100hp or so through the drivetrain. That is silly! You need to assume on the order of 12% with your setup, RWD in 4th gear. So you might have something like: HP(flywheel)=HP(flywheel)*Drivetrain loss + HP(wheels) HP(flywheel)=463 Actually, I do not believe this is the correct way to determine the hp@flywheel. I remember there is a different formula and it is not as straight forward as I have shown above. There has been some discussion in the past regarding drivetrain loss on RWD and FWD cars. It is said that FWD cars are on the order of 5% loss and RWD are on the order of 12% with both in 4th gear. BTW, Scottie will need about 530hp@wheels to beat my car! SUCKA!

The lines going over the valve cover are the turbo oil supply lines. You can see there is a single (-4) line going to that aluminum piece ontop of the valve cover and then it splits into 2x (-3) lines. I machined that aluminum Y splitter instead of paying $20 for one. Also, I could not find any Y splitters that converted a (-4) into 2x (-3's). The NOS line is a sinlge fogger. If you look at the 2 lines that enter the intercooler piping directly before the TB, those are the NOS/FUEL lines for the NOS system. It will just be a 65shot. I don't think I will have a spoolup issue because of my big stall converter. The NOS was more for effect and some added whop. I may swap it for some Methanol injection.

Here is the complete pics folder Complete Pics Folder

** Hrm, it's U4 I cannot figure out. I've got a flat transistor with a heatsink on it w/bolt hole that I know isn't it and a handful of transistors. Yea, that flat thing is the LM317(3-AMP Adjustable regulator TO-220). It gets attached to your heatsink. U4 is the LM78L08(8V regulator) and it looks exactly like the 2N3906 and 2N3904. They are all round with a flat spot on one side. It is a 3pin jobber. ** Not sure which of those is the correct piece for step one. For all the round 3pin jobbers with the flatspot on 1 side, list the writing on each one for me and I can let you know. Otherwise you can use your voltmeter to figure it out. I will get the pops to give me the test. ** Pathetic I know but kripes it's been a LONG time (sigh). Yes, it is true...you are pathetic! HEHE! As if I would have figured any of it out myself! ** Feel like I'm stuck on first base here It is ok if this project resembles your sex life. I will try to give you the answers this evening so you can proceed. ** the edge connectors were cake to install as was the cap. Come to think iof it I'd better check polarity (smack). Yes, the caps have the Negative terminal usually marked on the side of the cap itself. Was one of the small blue ones so it's not like I've got to worry about it popping in my face but still... ** Hrm, and as I interpeted the blurb about the silkscreen I believe that the PCB silkscreen shows the regulator turned around 180 and that you need to solder it in bassackwards from what's on the board surface - yes? NO! It says, "note: U4's silk screened outline is rotated 180° to its corrrect orientation." This means that the silkscreen is correct on the board, whereas the location guide is not correct. The only part that is silkscreened incorretly is U2 where it says, "note: U2's silk screened outline is rotated 180° from its corrrect orientation." Therefore, you need to rotate U2 180° from how the silkscreen is done. U2 is one of your 14pin chips. Look at this pic, see how both the 14pin chips have the little notch facing the left. This is correct, whereas the silkscreen says U2's notch faces to the right. Use the force LUKE!

These are the only components to be installed in step 1: Capacitors (- side is denoted on the capacitor) Resistors (polarity not important) U4(78L08 regulator) will resemble the 2N3904 and 2N3906's. Most decent voltmeters will let you know if your 2N3904 & 2N3906 are PNP or NPN. The regulator should have markings, but I will check later. ** The following components can be soldered in (working from left to right) C15 (0.1 uF), U4 the 78L08 regulator , C13 (10 uf), C12 (22/25 uF), R33 (10 ohms), and R28 & R29 (both 10 k). ** (note: U4's silk screened outline is rotated 180° to its corrrect orientation) This means the silkscreen is correct and not the location guide in this case. BTW, what transistor are you referring to?

UD is for Update, just wanted to be cool so you all would like me! HEHE! So, TimZ and I recieved our 4boards(no parts) and I am about 75% finished with the 1st board. There are a few things not mentioned in the article that you have to do. Luckily for me, Dr. Thagard(DAD), is also an EE professor at FSU and is helping me. More like I sat there and watched. We have all the parts needed at our house to build the 1st board. What TimZ and myself are changing is the output voltage that is normally between 1.4V-2.9V we are making into a 0-1V so that it can be directly read by the Electromotive for tuning. I should be done with the board by Tuesday and after I order the damn O2 I will post the results. You really need some EE skills to complete the task. I would be stopping to ask many questions had the pops not been there. Will keep you updated. Wow, for about $150 worth of parts and your time you can have wide band technology for your car.

SS510, watch that inlet filter on the turbo. I used to run the filter just off the inlet and found that the exhaust manifold generated sufficient heat to melt the rubber on the filter. Also, you do not want to suck in hot engine air as it will make a difference on power. Especially since you are not running an intercooler. Looks great though!

Now that I know more about your setup I have determined that you are handicaped so I will not run my NOS when we race. This will mak it more even. HEHE!

You so funny Kevin. Are you completely understanding what you are reading in the book? Something you are saying is not jivin'. The initial kicker that caused TimZ and myself to post was this: >Twin Turbo Set Up (Divide 30psi/2 = 15psi) I guess you assumed that two turbo's at 15psi each make 30psi total??? NO! If you did not mean that then how can you compare a single turbo at 30psi to twins at 15psi? As we stated before, for a given pressure ratio, twin turbo's flow twice as much as a single turbo that is the same. >The pressure ratio & density ratio's both change when you figure 15psi -vs- 30psi...work the math yourselt & you'll see. Hmmm. Pressure ratio @15psi=((15+14.7)/14.7)=2.02 Pressure ratio @30psi=((30+14.7)/14.7)=3.04 My goodness, you are correct...a difference of 1.02 pressure ratio. TimZ, you bastard what were you thinking? I don't understand your point with this comment, we are quite aware of the pressure ratio and the potential flow for that area on the compressor map. Let me make the comparison of my old T64 and my new twin 16G's. Here are the flow numbers for the two setups. Twin 16G's: 1 16G - 505cfm@15psi 1 16G - 505cfm@15psi Both turbo's together - 1010cfm@15psi Single T64: T64 - 695cfm max@15psi w/76% efficiency potential of 942cfm with horrible efficiency So, with both turbo setup running at 15psi, it can be seen that the twins outflow the single for this example. So what have we learned? The flow densities are additive and not the pressure ratios(boost pressure) when running twins.

Well, TimZ and myself have 4 of those boards coming as of last week. We will modify them to give an output voltage of 0-1V instead of the 1.3-3.?V or whatever it was. This will allow use to utilize the wideband with the Tech and allows us to stay in closed loop under full boost if desired. We will also make a display unit for the setup. TimZ is an electrical engineer and my father has degrees in electrical engineering and teaches EE at FSU, so between them I think we can get this done.

TimZ, you so smart. Correct, to give my setup as an example. 1 of my turbo's is rated 505cfm@15psi, so with the twin setup I will have 1010cfm@15psi. The boost pressures between the two turbo's is not additive, only the flow. So adding a turbo and keeping the boost the same doubles the flow potential.