JessZ

:shock:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=116

I'm having trouble finding which 5-speed I can direct swap into my 240z without any other mods. My 4-speed is roached. Any idea?

INDEED. Thanks.

I'm not even sure it's the tranny, could be the differential? When driving in 1st-3rd gears there is a gnarly whinning sound that gets louder the higher the RPM, and reverse is shot. Reverse makes this crazy clunking/grinding sound when the clutch is depressed. (Not confused with typical Z-clunking). And when I decelerate is 1st-3rd it does the same thing. I have no problem shifting gears, it's smooth. 4th gear runs like a champ, there's no whinning sound and no indication anything is wrong. I thought maybe something went wrong with the clutch too, like the flywheel came loose, but I'm not sure this makes sense. Anyway, I'm trying to get some ideas so I know where to start. I've heard differentials don't really go bad, but it's hard to tell because the noise could be coming from the rear.

Not sure if this will help, but it's what goofed me when I did my swap. Make sure the backside of the ignitor, which is attached to your coil bracket is firmly grounded to bare metal on your fender. You may have to sand down some paint.

Well as it turns out there were two vaccum leaks, one small and one a little larger which happened to pop up roughly the same day I cut the muffler. My Z always throws in a little kink for me to work out. Gotta luv it.

You're running an NA ECU and other NA parts?

That curious to me then, because when I had no muffler (L28et) originally the car did the same thing, then I put the muffler on and it stoped, then just today I took it back off to that RRRRRace car feel back and the low idle thing started again. I know my '83 electronics are crap, but it still seems odd.

Datsuns are too much fun and your gallery exemplifies this perfectly. Good on ya.

I've taken off the muffler to my stock l28et set up on my 240z and since then the car seems to idle rougher and actually die at idle. I was under the impression that turbo motors did better w/o back pressure? The car is faster at wide open throttle, which is what I was after, but it's just the idle thing now. I was wondering if I should simply turn the throttle nut to raise th RPM @ idle, or can I lean the fuel to help eliminate the rich smell, and in turn raise idle RPM a bit? Thanks ya'll, jesse

From what I've read you can use either rod, just keep in mind what size piston you are using. The L24 rods are longer, so you will want a shorter piston, like the ones that come from the 240sx. Isn't a 3.1et overkill for 300-350hp? I would just go with the L28et and drop the money that you would spend fooling with the stroker build on aftermarket go-fast parts for the L28 motor. With an intercooler, aftermarket computer and boost controller you should reach your goal, but I'm wrong all time. good luck, jess

My 240z L28et swap does not want to warm up. The temp gauge rarely rises above 1/4, any ideas? The thermostat is working fine, but even so, after 10 minutes of driving, 45 minutes of driving, the engine will still run too cold. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jon, I stand corrected. I jumped the gun there.

If you're using the throwout fork from the 240z and 225mm flywheel, then as far as I know you should order the kit for the correct year 240z that you started with. The throwout forks differ from year to year (even between 70-73 240z's) and can pose a problem if you start mismatching parts. The motor will not determine what clutch you put in unless you're concerned with power output, then you'd just want to run a stronger clutch. The stock 240z clutch will be fine for you're application IMHO.

My 240zet is now running a little funny. Here's what I'm thinking: because i ran the gas too low the fuel pump may have got some air in it. Is this even possible? The deal is that my car farts out, then regains composure after some peddel coaxing. Also, when I try to revs up the rpms, everytime single time the motor will cut out. Does this sound like the fuel pump?

Dtsnlvs, that's cool about your quickest 0-60mph being with essentially the same setup as what i have now. I've decided to just stick with the 4-speed and go with one of those $269 Centerforce clutch kits from Summit. I am making the order after Christmas, so if anyone knows of a cheaper and effective clutch, I'm listening. Jon-I did last minute shopping in my flip-flops and shorts. Don't know how the weather is in Seattle, but it's been a California day here in SLO, and the ladies, ohhhhhh the ladies. cheers and drive safe...

Hey Jon how's it going up north? I'm in SLO town visiting old college buddies. I drove the datsun down from S.F., and you're right about The City, I'd rather not live there. I've read, Jon, on another post, you mentioning the wide ratio 5-speed coupled the gears I have now are better for turbo'd cars. So that's nice, this guy will sellme one for $50, and it runs sweet. About the second post dtsnlvr, what do mean about that nut tightening? From reading your comment it seems all the trannys do this?

My wimpy 4 speed in my 240z is not holding the l28et's torque. I have have an option to buy a '79 5-speed. I like this idea because of the fifth gear, but will this 5-speed also not hold the stock l28et's power? Is there a performance clutch I can use with this tranny? Thanks.

Buy the turbo engine and sell your engine. It's way easier to just plant a stock L28et and wire the electronics into your car then go through the evil, buggy N/A swap shenanigans---WAY EASIER!

With that L28 setup you were able to out accelerate the 350Z? Rad. I went to a stock turbo setup in my 240Z because it was cheaper than going your route. After college, when I make some money, I would love to turn my car into something like you have. Would you mind posting the specs on your motor?

try checking the bolts that connect your turbo to manifold, I think there are like 4 of them. Mine have come loose before. Also try the bolts from turbo to downpipe. Just a thought, good luck.

Keep on rockin Big-Phil. I always enjoy your vids. I need to start posting some of my own. Happy Holidays everyone.

I recentley finished school there. I'm in S.F. now, if I can help let me know.

I had the same problems as you and found that my coil bracket needed to be grounded to my fender. Attatched to your coil bracket, the round metal thing that secures your coil to the fender, there is the ignitor--this needs to be working of course. Anyway, the ignitor is mounted to the coil bracket and bolts to your drivers-side fender. Sand of some fender paint to bare metal, then bolt the coil/ignitor to the bare metal fender so the ignitor touches the bare metal. Hopefully this will get you boosting--good luck.

I wouldn't switch any of the na parts to the turbo motor, unless you have the non-egr (N42) intake manifold. I would buy the turbo motor and when you sell the na motor use the money for an intercooler and BOV--just my oppinion though. Good luck.