JessZ

Thanks for all the adivice, she's purrrin again

yeah it was a typo, thanks though.

stock '71 L24... The latest problem: I've got puff of smoke popping out of the SU closest to the radiator. The other is fine. Both air/gas screws were tightened, then brought out 3 full turns. I've changed the points (gap .016-.018), cap, wires, plugs. Did not pull the rotor out. The pistons in the carbs do move up and down, the fouled carb does move just a barley easier than the other that's closer to the cab. The symptoms before this would-be-easy endeavor: First the engine would die when I exit the highway. Then when driving casually the rpm would totally stop, as if the motor lost spark, then pick right up again. After this, about a day later, some mean backfiring. I'm mean like a shotgun, in fact my muffler is not sounding perferct anymore. This seems like timing to me, so to duoble check. The firing order is 153642 and the pistons go 1-6 from front to back, right? And the dizzy spins counter-clockwise, right? Bad gas? Something sucked into carb? ??? thanks, jessz

What I've checked: gas filter, distributer cap. The deal here is: i will start the car and drive, and every-so-often my rpm needle will spazz out and the car will want to die. If I pump the gas the motor will usually come back to life. However, if the car does die, and I click off the ignition then turn it back on it will drive again until it decided to repeat this process. problems: points, wires, gas pump, distributer cap. Any thoughts anyone. thanks...

There may be some type of better business bureau in your phone book. This is a kind of agency that specializes in giving businesses like this a hard time. Once you find this bureau use it as a threat to get what you need. Also you sometimes have to get really pissed to get what you're entitled to. Some people just relate better when they're yelled at.

I went under the car and tried tightening all the bolts I could, some kind of difficult to get to I admit, but also I noticed something--there is that strap (some nylon tough cloth) under there and it seems to be rather loose, is its function to help secure the dif., can this thing be tightened by me, or do I need a new one? The problem is: if I am at a stop and put the car in reverse and let the clutch go abruptly there is a clunk. I will then roll backwards about 1 m.p.h. do it again and the same thing, and again and again. While rolling backwards then, I will engage first and I can also get a smaller clunk in first, second, whatever.., as long as there is some motion to move the drivetrain front or back. The forward motion does not create as bad a clunk. I replaced the all the U-joints: driveshaft (bolts tight), and the four axle U-joints (all bolts tight there too). Another mention. When the car is on jacks (girlfrined in the driver's seat) and I hold one axle and then the other, the dif. seems to not role smoothly--there is a kind of crunchy sound. It's not bad, but does not seem perfect either. And the driver-side wheel spins freely faster than the passenger-side wheel. Any comments to address any, or all of the above is a help. Thanks...

What an eye opener. Truley inspiring.

Yabba Dabba Dooo! --That looks like some work--

Thanks Jon you always have my back. I'm pretty sure my Z is a series II, so it sounds like the angles are probably okay. I'm not planning on much power, so I will first try cranking down those bolts that Steve suggested. If that does not work then it's back to the SEARCH botton. Thanks Gents... BTW Jon, I have not gone out to Morro Bay yet. I was going to go to have my valves ajusted, but they're really fine right now and not hard to ajust anyway. The problem that was getting on my nerves was more about the little hole in my exhaust beneath the driver-side floor pan. I had that fixed at a place of Tank Farm, and the car sounds great again.

I am chasing down the clunk in my 240. The bushings in my mustache cross member need replacing, but this I guy I met told me to use one off a 260 or 280z. He said it was a simple bolt on swap and the angles of the later bar are easier on my U-joints. Any thoughts? There are two 260z's and one 280z at the salvage yard here in town, and the price for the new-used part is $25.

I was thinking of this part number (17034) here is the address. http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm. There is guy on the net who has an L24 in his car with this part number. The goal for my car is not to do the L28 yada yada build up. I want to keep the original stuff in it. However, I would like to hear a lope from the cam and be able to produce fun power from the 3000ish rpm range through 6500 rpm. Comments please, and yes I am researching as well, but I appreciate the knowledge I get from you all. Thanks.

Is it pointless to get a header for my L24 with a mild cam?

My vavles are ajusted and there is still a tapping noise. Could my cam be getting tired, or could weak springs be the problem? Thanks.

I noticed someone saying they figured out compression with a Z motor caluculator. Is there a formula for this?

I'm looking to buy a Valence panel for my '71 240z. The guy has two options for my purchase. The panels differ very slightly by some "lip" thing he was talking about. With anyone's expert opinion, I have the emails with pics that I can forward so you can get a better idea of what I'm talking about. Thanks. Please PM me.

Try changing your U-joints, I had a squek like that and changing the U-joints solved it.

I just changed the drive-shaft and axle U-joints. My question here is can my differential be rebuilt? Are there kits to rebuild them? It sometimes makes a clunk sound when I let out the clutch. All when I have it on jacks and spin one wheel there feels to be some slop as the other side starts to spin. Thanks. By the way it's the 1971 R180 running gear.

My 240 L24 runs like a champ, but I notice after is warms up the valves clap louder than when cold. Do all L24 engines make this valve clap sound. I use 10w-30w oil and I checked everything, it's all tight in there. What do you guys think? Thanks.

Months ago I posted a problem regarding the terrible shaking with my 240z after 50 m.p.h. Thanks for all your advice, but the problem ended up being a faulty rear drum. Now three years later after trying this and that it was a $12 fix. Oh the humility... But damn is it nice to being a rollin shake-free

Well I'm excited to be back here at HybridZ, it has been quite some time. Anyway, I was almost ready to sell my Z, but have decided to give one more chance. Here's the deal... The problem: ever since I've owned the car it has shaken up to about 55 mph, and gets worse as I go faster. The steering wheel shakes, the dash board and the seats. What I know: I've had it on a lift and when I put the car in gear and spin the rear wheels and the RPM gauge gets to about 2500 or above, the transmission and drive shaft to shakes pretty bad. Also the motor mount is broken. What I've tried: I changed the U-joints, trasmission mount and stub axle (why, it was a lame idea), and also bought new tires. What should I try: balancing the drive shaft? Would a new motor mount help? Something in the tranny shaking? please any ideas would be awsome. I've owened this car for two years. It is a 71 240Z in great condition, except for this one problem.

What I want is a daily driver that runs on pump gas, is much quiker than my stock early '71 L24, and sounds great. So, I have a few options, which one sounds most appealing for what I want, what would you guys do. 1. I buy a stock L28 with early dual Hitachi's, headers 2. L28 lopey cam, tripple webers, headers 3. Same L28 as (2.) with lopey cam, but early dual Hitachi's, headers 4. port and polish my stock already great running L24, headers I seem to be getting more confused as I ask more questions, but this may ultimatley lead to a (Z)en desicion, so please mighty Z-lords tell what I should do. I've heard that tripples may not make the L28 quiker, and an after market cam can actually hinder performance. The L24 is a great little motor and even better when it flows easier. And the L28 with a cam and tripples is great, so what is the deal? thanks again, JessZ

anybody know if a 3.1L with SU's, Lseries motor with 10.5:1 compression will run on pump gas for a daily driver. Its the motor in the classified section ($3500) right now? thanks, JessZ

I live in San Luis Obispo and am financially ready to convert my 240z. I'm leaning towards the Ford swap, but it seems it may not be as cost efficient as the Chevy swap according to what I have seen on this site. Am I right thinking this? What are the advantages of the Ford 302 swap vs Chey 327. I don't want a totally radical engine, just mild cam, intake and nice carb bolted to a five speed. Also, is there anyone who can reliably do the Ford swap? That is I bring you the parts and you do the work. thanks.