bluezx

Just wanted to clarify my post. I'm not trying to install the shortnose diff to my car just the "guts" into my stock 82'280zxt longnose R200 to get limited slip.

Started to post this in the drivetrain section but I'm looking for info on this swap in an S130 not S30. I've had no luck finding a direct bolt-in long nose R200 lsd diff. to install in my car. So, I got a good deal on a 1991 300zx nonturbo short nose vlsd R200 diff. and axles. Having researched this topic I've found all the info I need to install this vlsd carrier into my R200 longnose case using 10mm to 12mm spacers to retain my ring and pinion gear with the 3.54 ratio my turbo likes. My issue now is sorting out what combo of cv axles and parts (stock and or custom) it's going to take to complete this install with a minimum of fabrication. I can get any parts off a few S13's,J30's,early z31's(84-85 turbo and non),and a Q45 at my friends junkyard. I understand this is not going to be a direct bolt-in affair and have no problem drawing and having adapters machined with pics and write-up to help other S130 owners accomplish this. Any comments or advice?

This morning I read this post to fast. Should have waited untill my 2nd cup of coffee... I thought the engine was running fine untill warmed up then would cut off and not start till cooled down. Thats why I called out ignition heatsoak. Anyway, it sounds like you need to start with the basics, poor or coroded EFI electrical connections, vac leaks, ect. Go to this site http://www.xenons130.com/ and download the Factory Service Manual, (not some Chilton's or Haynes manual) and use it to properly test all the components of your fuel injection system.

Sounds like your "matchbox" is getting heatsoaked. I had the same problem a few years ago with a nonturbo and changing out the ignition box on the side of the distributor cured it. "download the fsm from xenon so you can look things up before coming here as you will likely get flamed big time with a post such as the one above." This site has rules about spoon-feeding info on common problems and fixes... zcar.com is a great site for maintenance and repair type questions.

Nice detailed write-up. It's great to see more quality coil-over installs on s130's. I'm using Ground Controls but I like your set-up for the ability to change ride hieght without compressing the springs.

I had one and got rid of it for the same reason, poor fitment potential. Besides those have plastic end tanks. It wouldn't be worth trying to mod it unless it was all aluminum. My opinion is sell it and look for a better one for your application.

Yeah, I've decided against these. I'm gonna hold out till I can afford some real ones. I'd rather wait then go cheap and be dissapointed. Thanks for the advice.

If the link works just look at what the offer for zcars. Looks like they have two types of 7"round housings and multiple ballast/bulb options. Sorry about the pics not working, not sure what I did wrong.

Here's a link to there main page: http://www.carhidkits.com/ They offer two types of housings the first pic attached comes with the 280zx kit and the secound with the 260z kit. So, what am I looking at? Are these just another cheep Ebay type Hid kit or are they an inexpensive ($140-$150) alternative? To good to be true usually is but theres video of them "testing" the durability of the ballasts by running over them with a car!

Another option is to remove the egr and make a block-off plate to bolt in place. Just like you would block off the mechanical fuel pump on a V8 when using an electric pump. Can you get away without an egr valve in socal? You might want to do it like this so it can be bolted back on and it's pipe tied back in to your header if need be to pass smog.

Nice work! Did you make the intake also? What are you gonna do to the rear, bumper, tailights,exc.

I've carefully cut them into two parts by hand with a keyhole saw or just a hacksaw blade. Flip the blade around so your cutting with the outward stroke and some times they'll popout as your cutting. Just don't cut into the crankshaft and blow the chips out. I'm assuming your dealing with the solid bronze/brass type pilot not the roller bearing type. I've never used the grease and dowel methode but will try that next time. Less chance of damage to the crank.

Sorry no progess, been working the last four weekends on a remodel project for family. Looks like it does move the wheels out by about 3/4" for a total 1-1/2" wider stance. I think of this as an added advantage,"wider is better" and all plus more clearance for wider wheel-tire combos. When I can get caught up and back at it I'll post updates in the suspension thread.

A couple years ago I converted an s130 from recirculating ball type power steering to manual rack and pinion without changing out the steering column. Sounds to me like you've got all the parts you need.

O.k., woke up this morning, read Frank's last reply and realized what I did by starting this post instead adding this to the suspension tec post Will add any new updates and info on this subject over there to keep it all in one place. Dam newbies! lol Thanks guys, Mark.

Point taken. I do tend to do that. Sometimes I can't help my self...

Frank, thanks for the info about the tie rods. Looks like I've got all the parts I need to put this together now except bump steer correction. I saw this on the rare and interersting parts thread and thought this would be a great way to lengthen the control arms. I wonder what ball joints they used to make those. Seems like a pretty striaght forward control arm design. I could copy that in mild steel and have them powdercoated. I would still be able to use the t.c. rods I already made too;

Yes please to the pics Slownrusty

Thanks for the pictures. I like how you boxed them in too. Did you have to modify the Z31 steering arms or tie rods? The brake and 5lug wheel options this combination of parts gives is just great! Frank, you are a genius. Also, does anyone know were to get bumpsteer spacers for an 84' Z31? I only found 1 place [Z31 Parts.com] but there out of stock.

Yeah, my control arms are gonna need some surgery. I was looking at doing hemi joints any way so that should fix that. I really wanted 4-piston calipers up front and this seemed like the best way to get them. The camber plates are for fine tunning to get it dialed in. Frank, did you have to "stretch" the tierods also to acomplish this mod? I've been considering rod end conversions and bumpsteer spacers to complete this set up. I'ts definitly a domino effect once you start changing one thing... Pure Pontiackid, I think both my cars are the same blue originaly just in different sunfaded conditions now.lol

These are T-3 camber plates and ground control coil-over sleeves from Techno Toy Tuning I'm fitting to 84 Z31 spindle assemblies. Got some Z32 calipers to go with them too! Anyone got any pics of camber plates installed on S130's? I'm waiting on a Cusco strut bar before cutting out the top of the strut towers and would like to see what others have done. Lots of S30 pics, not much S130 stuff posted yet.

The sensor at #5 is the cylinder head temp. sensor. That gives your ecu a reading of engine temp. that it uses to determin cold starting enrichment of the injectors. That sensor is very sensitive to poor or coroded connections and will cause very rough idle and poor overall performance. I did have some difficulty with my local Advanced Auto Parts getting the correct coolant temp sensor. They had it listed as the Thermal Time Switch in thier system. It really helps if they can display an image of the part you are ordering to make sure it's the one you need. Or have them crossreference Nissan part#'s 25080-F5000 for digital dash 25080-89900 for analog dash While your at it make sure the conections on all the sensors are clean and free of any green corosion that builds up on the brass contacts. Having good clean connections at the CHTS,TPS,AFM and the injector connectors can really improve idle, throttle response, and overall performance.

Just checked my car,82zxt. Sender with single yellow wire goes to the gauge. I also have one with a single green wire for the injector fan switch.

What rad are you using? Got it used off ebay. It is stamped "Northern made in USA" on the right side tank. It's core is 2 1/4" thick. Seller said it was from Summit Racing Equiptment for an 80's Camaro.