tonycharger72

Was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, I have an RB30 powered Zed and am using a heavy duty clutch, but it is really heavy, I was wanting to change to a bigger master cylinder and appropriate slave cylinder, Initially when I did the conversion to the RB30 engine and 5spd (same as Turbo RB20 gearbox) the clutch wouldnt engage properly at all, so changed to a smaller (Think it was smaller) slave cylinder and adjusted the clutch to the limit of its throw, that was able to give me a clutch pedal!!! But its f#cking heavy, So my question is, What are my options for increasing the size of the stock 240/260z Clutch master cylinder? Anything that is bolt on? I can probably bore out my existing clutch MS, but was hoping that something from another Datsun/Car might serve the purpose???

Here is some pics in my gallery! Dont let the first few fool you, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13462 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13460 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13460 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13463 This is what I had to do to get it all stuffed under the bonnet, dont laugh !!! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=19601&cat=500 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=19602&cat=500 The turbo wasnt even clost to fitting, but also the big XF throttle body (which, f#cking sucks) didnt fit under the stock bonnet either!!! However, with the stock Manifold, stock throttle body, stock cross over pipe it all fits, just!!! I will take some pics of the engine mounts and steering rack,

Hey mate, PM your email and I will send you a bunch of pics - then you can host them on here (I dont know how , The RB30 is indeed quite a bit tall and you will see the fun my hood latch has had dealing with it, finally gave up trying to avoid it and crushed it good!!! Everything fit great until I slapped the gearbox on and then the sump was sitting right on the rack - the sump slops down at the front from left to right (if you are standing at the front of the car) and this just sits on the rack, I will try and take pics of my gearbox crossmember to and fling them your way - its a stock one modified because the engine sits so far back in the engine bay, but if it wasnt you would almost certainly have to modify the stock shifter location forward - so at least they got that part right!!!

I used the CRS engine mounts and ZR200 sump (think that is what its called, RB20 rear mounted sump from the Z31) and had to use spacers underneath the engine mounts to keep the sump of the steering rack - from memory I added about 10-15mm to gain clearance!!!

Anyone have any pics of where the gear stick pops up through the transmission tunnel? With the Vildini cradle or McKinney Motorsports mounts do you retain the stock shifter location?

Q:have you boxed off the front of the car so any air HAS to go thru the IC + rad? if not the air will just go through any hole it can find with less restriction. A: Yes, the intercooler DID sit right in front of the radiator, but i moved it outta the way - i kept the radiator in the same position and moved the intercooler to just behind the front spoiler, forward approx 170mm and down 150mm, I installed the Spall 16" thermo fan (moves around 2000cfm) and it just barely kept it cool, pretty much had to run it continuously even when at speed, I then installed the engine fan (with no shroud) and drove it around then let it sit and idle for about 40mins, didnt go above 82deg Cel approx, This is a good start , however I live in Canberra and when i did this little test it wouldnt have been more than 5deg outside, dont know what it will be like when the temp hits 40deg (which it can hit in summer), Q: When does it overheat, while driving or sitting still? At the moment its pretty much staying put at 82deg with the engine fan, if i run the thermo fan it really struggles to stay at 82deg and as soon as i stop the temp starts to rise, I would really heaps prefer to run a thermo fan instead of the Engine fan though, so much easier to install and surround with a shroud - making a shroud to fit my engine fan and radiator has been interesting so far.................... Might have to spend up big and purchase one of those thermo fans that moves 3000cfm of air, But before then, i will replace the thermo-stat and the water-pump, both are at least 2 years old and probably arent what they used to be,

There is a bleeder valve on top of the intake plenum for the RB30's - this is the highpoint for the RB30 cooling system, thats how to get all the air out, Dosent help me much though, I have a custom forward facing plenum without this little bleeder valve attached , Before I put the turbo on I installed the intercooler, even at that point when the engine was still N/A it was really struggling to keep cool, Like you said in your first paragraph, I think im blocking the air flow to much by stuffing the intercooler bang-smack in-front of the radiator, Probably going to have to move it,

Hey guys, was wondering if anyone had any good ideas on helping me keep my Zed cool!!! I have an RB30ET engine, t3/t4 top mount and custom forward facing plenum, I have stuffed both the radiator and intercooler in the engine bay, got the idea of some bloke with an RB26 powered zed, mine looks very similar, There is almost no clearance between the radiator and the intercooler, My intercooler is a 3" thick and is 600mm (wide) x 300mm (tall), My Radiator is out of a Holden Rodeo, 3.2L V6 4x4 ute type of thing, its core diemensions are 635mm (wide) x 440mm (tall) x 35mm (thickness), it has an aluminium core with plastic end tanks, Its a touch larger and thicker than the Jags that Run radiator, I have tried using the following alternatives to keep my car cool, Cheap 16" thermo fan without a shroud - really sh#t, Spal 16" thermo fan with curved blades (2200 cfm one) with a shroud - just kept the car cool when at speed and when stopped engine started to go past 90deg celcius, Stock RB30 engine fan without a shroud - this was the best alternative so far, keeps the car at the correct temp, but if you sit and idle for long periods or get stuck in traffic, starts to overheat, Stock RB30 engine fan with a shroud - was better of without the shroud!!! car starts to overheat pretty quickly even at speed!!! Why is my setup not keeping the engine cool??? Anybody got any ideas? Is the intercooler and radiator to close? Is the intercooler blocking the radiator air-flow to much? Would a thicker radiator work better? Any suggestions would be great, starting to get sick of making shrouds!!!

Thanks for the link mate, will look into it, For rego I wasnt allowed to have an adjustable bias for the brakes, so I had to cut the top of the adjusting valve, so have had very little pressure to the rear brakes since doing the conversion - mix this with my tracking issues and the car isnt a whole lotta fun in the wet!!! Problem is so many little issues to take care of before I can deal with the brakes, steering, suspension, engine placement, radiator shroud, heater needs replacing, etc, etc, etc ,

I have 298mm with 4-spots on the front (same calipers as GTS-T R32) and the rears are 289 x 22 with single piston 44mm floaters, I am using a 1" master cylinder from a 1975-79 Nissan patrol, I have an adjustable bias value in place but literally had to cut all pressure to the rear brakes because i kept swapping ends!!! Looks like your rear brakes are a similar size, wondering if you had the same issue?

Oh ok, I will go back and get them to add some toe-in, Clifton, what are the size of your brakes on that silver zed mate?

Yes, daily driver, I Figured that one out after I left the place , it was like a tyre shop and their equipment was a touch dodge, I have a slotted crossmember, new tie-rod ends and balljoints that ive been trying to motivate myself to put in for awhiles now, so will do that this weekend and take the car to a proper steering and suspension place, that can measure the caster angle aswell , But it appears that I have 0 camber at this point, but from reading that is probably a good thing because of the largish increases in track I have, Also, the more folks I talk to it seems that my tyres may have something to do with what is happening with my car - they are middle of the road faulkens, This one bloke I spoke to said that his personal experience with faulkens was an extremely durable tyre that has an awfully sturdy and inflexible side-wall, two cars he got rid of faulkens for different tyres and they were different cars, Because of their design (stiff side-walls) the faulkens had a real tendency to follow the contours on the road, making the cars track like crazy,

Here are the measurements (sorry they couldnt tell me caster angle), Before, Camber = Left -0.3 & Right + 0.6 Toe = Left +7 & Right +2 After Camber = Left -0.3, & Right +0.6 Toe = Zero for both left and right, Car does feel better than it did, but its still tracking,

The only thing I have negelected so far with my car is the suspension, It is as stock as it could probably get - I havent changed anything, having said that, I bought it from a bloke who about 7 years ago completely restored it, What kind of TC rod bushings are you using? They are just off the shelf rubber jobs i would think, but couldnt tell you for certain, What are your alignment settings? Toe in front and rear will reduce the tendency to wander. I have no means of adjusting the toe, without installing adjustable components right? Less negative camber will also help. More caster will drastically reduce wandering at speed (at the expense of harder steering). Do you have an air dam? Yes, I do have an air dam, But dont have adjustable radius rods, The ride quality in my zed is fine, It does not feel as if the shocks are bottoming out, It could do with a wheel alignment as my front left tyre is starting to wear unevenly, but other than that the suspension is as it was from the factory, So starting from scratch,

Actually, after doing some reading I have formed a theory that the experiences I am currently having with my car is probably not entirely related to the large track increases on my car, Maybe more to do with the thickness of my tyre sidewalls? having a 45 aspect ratio (as per Johnc), "A bigger issue is the handling problems caused by lower profile tires (45 aspect ratio and below). The Z chassis needs a certain amount of compliance to grip properly. If the suspension is not supple enough the tires tend to skate over bumps and the suspension isn't given enough lateral load to bite. Normally this compliance comes from the tire sidewall (50 aspect ratio and above) but when you go to a lower aspect ratio tire the sidewalls are stiffer. Now the compliance that once existed in the tire has to be moved somewhere else. It can be moved to the suspension bushings and/or the shocks. If you stick with spring rates around 200 lb. in. the Tokico Illuminas set at no higher then 3 will work with lower aspect ratio tires. With spring rates over 200 lb. in. the Illuminas set at 4 or 5 (to get proper rebound damping) have too much compresison damping which causes the tires to skate over bumps. The car feels like it wants to take a set but then unloads and moves a bit and then tries to take a set again." My front brakes are a touch large and i dont think i am able to stuff much less than 17" rims on them, Pretty much leaves me with alternativatives of 235/45-17 or 225/55-17 as common of the shelf tyre alternatives in Australia, However, I have stock suspension, well as far as I know, it is certainly stock ride hide, i would be extremely surprised if the spring rates exceeded 200lbs, but when i drive behind my zed there is almost no give in the springs going over reasonable bumps in the road at reasonable speeds (maybe not the best indicator of spring stiffnes, but not sure how eles to measure the spring rates except pulling them off), So someone before me could have increased the spring rate over stock but kept the stock ride height, With my current 235 tyres I do get the negative effects of the lower profile tyres and possibly the increases in the track, So - what should i do? change to a 225/55-17 (pretty f#cking big tyre though, like 680mm rolling diameter), or get rid of the 4-spots, change to a 2-piston floater and stuff on some 16x7's with a 10p offset and some 225/50-16 tyres? I dont really ever intend lowering the car,

I rego'd mine in the ACT and the engineer was a bit scractchy , I actually increase my track by approximately 25mm a side, which has differenately increased the scrub radius, Im running 17x8's on the front & rear of my zed with 235/45-17 tyres and under braking the car flyes all over the road (f#cking annoying actually), and does certainly wonder at high speeds, But there is certainly an increased feel in the wheel and it does handle alot better, with heavier steering at lower speeds, Whatever changes you do to increase or narrow track just do it before your engineer gets a chance to measure the track width, and then advise him what the original track was , Mine is now a shade over 700mm at the front, whereas it should be approx 654mm or something like that Now back to my original question about 18months ago - I have increased track massively JohnC - how do i lessen these scrub radius tendencies in my car??? ,

I could be wrong, but i do believe your turbo may just be a touch bigger than the one on my car , Even so, after i spun the compressor housing i had miles of space - my is a SOHC RB30 engine though, not RB20/25/26 and im RHD drive, But back to my question - is it cool to have the compressor (1cm clearance) housing and turbine (bout 10cm clearance) this close to my bonnett without some sort of heat shield/turbo bag/hood underlining???

Not for me, Strut tower clearance is easy - I had to take out the bonnett vent for clearance - I have about 1cm between bonnett and compressor housing, As you can see, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13460&cat=500&ppuser=12400 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13462&cat=500&ppuser=12400 Few other pics, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13461&cat=500&ppuser=12400 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13463&cat=500&ppuser=12400 The turbo being this close to the bonnett going to cause any drama's? like melting paint etc???

Was wondering if anyone has managed to stuff an RB20/25/26/30 engine into a Zed with a TOP MOUNT style manifold and Turbo? I have one and without popping of my exhaust to see if it will fit under my bonnett, was wondering if someone has tread that path already and might have some pics to share?