tonycharger72

fentin_fury, It does not specify on the website (diagrams are a bit unclear as to dimensions), Those sizes for the Intercooler - are they the core size or the overall size? Interested in the width - 25"

Was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, I have an R30 with EFI'd L24 in it - at the moment it wont start, Starter is working fine, Im getting plenty of spark (almost gave myself a heart attack , All leads are connected and no fuses appear to be blown, I havent checked out the relays though, Not to sure about the fuel though, I cant hear the fuel pump when key is turned to acc or start, Also, when i removed the out line of the fuel filter (in the engine bay) there was fuel in the filter, but i thought that if i turned the key to acc or start fuel should start pissing out - this did not happen! Anyone got any tips or suggestions???

I have 298mm Vented Rotors with R32 4spots on the front, for the rears its 287mm with 45mm single piston floating calipers, I am using a 1" bore MS from a 1979 Patrol, My pedal is really spongy - Brakes work really well, put your head through the windscreen, but the pedal dosent bite untill about half way down the pedal stroke, I am using rubber hoses - but i did away with the solid mounts that were on the struts - so i have a hardline from a basis adjuster in the engine bay all the way to the chassis rails - then a rubber hose straight to the calipers (front and rear) - i no longer have that little solid line that ran from the strut to the calipers, Was thinking that if i got rid of the rubber and installed braided steel lines that might firm up my pedal a bit? any ideas?

http://www.newgel.com.au/datsun.htm I have the rear spoiler shown in the above link's pictures, It does not have any designated bolt holes, What i was thinking of doing was attaching it with 2 bolts at either end (quick drill work on the body and spoiler) and using some water based polyurethane all around it, That should hold it right?

I think i would be better of trying a CA18 turbo swap then the SR20, atleast with that engine I can more easily do a rear mounted sump arrangement, I think i can anyways, that engine is supposed to be a 4cyl version of the RB engines right? therefore the sump wont be structurally intergral to the block like the SR20 and its not made out of alluminium either, so alot cheaper to get to fabricate a rear sump,

Hey mate, you got any close up pics of the steering rack side? How is the clearance for the rack?

How is this project coming along? Anymore updates or new pics?

Hey Sr240z, I have been asking around I have managed to come across one bloke who has heard about someone putting an SR20 into a 720 Datsun Ute, this required the fabrication of a rear sump - but other than that i havent managed to find anyone eles who has done this , What is involved in a dry sump setup? Also - the sump being a 2-piece setup - from what i have heard the first part of the sump that spans the entire engine is actually structural?

Need this bloke to chime in , SR240Z http://www.VildiniMotorsport.com http://www.sr240z.com 1972 240z SR20DET 1972 240z L28 3.0L

Im not 100% certain because i havent had the sump off, but im pretty sure the pickup is located at the front of the engine, I have made a diagram of an SR20 engine, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8214&cat=500 As you can see it has an odd sump arrangement - where i have listed "Sump Pan" this is where im pretty sure the oil pickup is, To change this to a rear mounted sump im thinking i would have to remake the entire "Sump" and "Sump Pan Section" then remake the oil pickup so go from the front of the engine to the new rear sump section,

Dont wanna cut into the firewall, Unless there is an off the shelf rear or even mid sump arrangement for the SR20 i think it wouldnt really be worth using this engine (if it dosent clear with the front mounted sump) making up a custom alluminium sump would be pretty expensive im thinking - its an odd looking sump - its 2 piece, little hump right at the front, then another part which spans the length of the engine, that part would have to be re-made, then you could re-use the little hump where the pickup is, I didnt think about using the 1st gen suspension, but i think i would be fighting an up hill battle there - probably be alot easier to get the custom sump made up , im sure if it was easily swapable everyone who wanted Power Steering would be swapping 280zx front suspenion into their 1st gen zeds,

Was wondering if anyone had actually done this swap? Thinking about doing this, but i think its not going to fit, the reason for this is assumption is the SR20 has a front mounted sump, and it looks like it would be either be impossible or atleast very expensive to change to a rear mounted sump - the sr20 will clear the engine crossmember, but it wont clear the steering rack on a 280zx because it sits behind and not in front like on earlier zeds, To illustrate my point, http://www.sr240z.com/srpictures/2.jpg The 280zx's steering rack sits behind the crossmember and i think (from looking at the above pic) would foul on the sump, and it dosent look like that engine can go any further back in the engine bay, Anybody with any first hand experience of whacking an SR20 into a 280zx???

I have a 1974 260z 2 Seater which weighs in at 1172kg's (2578 pounds) and with approx 30L of fuel, Mine has full interior, recaro seats, R200, RB30 NA engine and box with 17*8 rims, au falcon rotors with r32 calipers at the front and XF Falcon rear brakes, 2.5" system and extractors - no A/C at the moment

Where do you get Block foam from?

I have a 280zx 2+2 and i thought this would be a great conversion, Got any more details of the engine and transmission mounts? more pics would be great, The 1uz looks like its a fair way back in the bay, did you mount the engine of the chassis rails?

To get my car over registration i had to put a stop on the rack - this involved installing a thin radiator clam onto the rack to stop it hitting full lock, The reason i wanted to stop the rack hitting full lock was because the tyres were rubbing on the chassis rails, Intially i was using 235-45-17 tyres, i switch to 215-45-17 tyres and this solved them rubbing on the passenger side, but the driver's side still rubbed, When i asked my engineer about this he said it was a stupid test and its not required in NSW (Different state to where i live - next door neighbour) the reason he said its a stupid test is because you will never get the car at full lock when the car is air-born (ie....when there is no contact on the ground for your wheels/tyres), i dont quite understand this explanation, But i had to get it passed the Rego folks, so i put this stop on, makes it a tad difficult if you want to do some tight parking, i removed it the second i left registration

That sounds good mate, really like to see that car, i have recently bought a turbo kit for the L28 and am still deciding whether or not to use it or just slap in an RB engine, When i get home i will add you to me MSN mate, Do you have any pics of the conversion???

The autometer part # is 2310 - so thats the one, thanks mate, Have you found this gauge accurate???

280zNHChris & 260zturbo, Looks like you guys used the same gauges, What size is it? Dont suppose you have a part # for the gauge? Is this it? http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2446&sid=1

Im in Canberra Mate, I have a 280zx - im really interested in your, "RB20DET powered 280ZX" I think i may have already asked you questions about it though, It was a really straight forward swap wasnt it? like used the 280zx crossmember and tailshaft, You used the RB20 engine mounts and slotted the 280zx crossmember and that was it to get the engine into the car???

"Dude thats a really shithouse deal. One drill hole and 20 minutes worth of die grinding is not worth AUD350." I will check to see if the box gets rebuild, but it probably dosent for that price, Its just i dont have an L-Series bellhousing, Just to save myself the hassle of tracking it down - unless i can find someone flogging off an old L-Series box (does the L16-18-20 boxes use the same bellhousing as the L24-26-28 boxes?), Then it will work out cheaper, I sold two used and old 260z boxes for $350/piece - if im paying this for a suitable L-Series bellhousing, then there is not much difference, Im sure this is unlikely though and i should probably just stop being lazy , You got a spare L-Series bellhousing lying around???

There is a bloke in Canberra who is running your exact combination, He sometimes pops up on this forum, but is usually on, www.thezgarage.com (it might be .au aswell - try both), Goes by the name of MJFAWKE - in his bio there is a front pic of a 240z which is Red, PM me for more details

There is a mob in Australia - Stewart Wilkins - who will give you a good 2nd hand RB20DET tranmission with modified bellhousing to suit L24-26-28 engine for $850AUD, sounds like a pretty sweet deal, considering most places flog these boxes off for $500 for good used items,

I have just been told that the RB20 box is a much better fit, still use more or less the same process as you listed, but its a shorter gearbox than the SR20 box, Still have to fabricate a crossmember for the box, but the tailshaft can remain the same length, make life a little bit easier,

oh...........this work with an S15 SR20 6spd???