tonycharger72

Yes it is for Power Steering, I have been doing some more measuring after a fellow member prompted me to look at where the rack-ends (inner tie-rod-end) pivot points were for the respective racks, Not good news it seems............... The Z rack-ends sorta screw over the top of the end of the rack, whilst the Subaru rack ends screw into the end of the rack as shown here, If you place the Z rack on a stock crossmember the rack-ends, once screwed property into the rack, locate the pivot of the rack-end in line with the LCA pivot hole on the crossmember, However, because the Subaru rack end has a different fitting for the rack-ends and they screw into the end of the rack, not sit over the top of the rack like the Z rack-ends, the pivot of the rack end effectively sits about 17mm or so further out than the pivot point of the Datsun Z rack, This means that to maintain proper geometry you really should be moving the LCA pivot point out around 15-20mm when installing the Subaru Rack, That could cause some issues Only way around this would be to find rack-ends that fit into the Subaru rack with much smaller housings for the ball pivots so as to bring back the pivot point to as close to the Z pivot points!!!

Hey guys, Just thought I would share some measurements I took of my Subaru Rack and Stock Z rack, I have searched through this forum and have looked at other peoples measurements of the Z & Subaru racks, the measurements given for the Subaru racks were very close to mine but think peoples measurements of the stock Z rack was a touch off......... The reason for this was when I mounted the Subaru rack on an original Z crossmember with the JTR bumptsteer mod (3/4" up and 1/4" out) that the end of the Subaru rack seemed to sit inside the LCA pivot point - thought this was weird, So I pulled apart the Z rack and pulled apart the Subaru rack and this is what I came up with - very very close in size!!! In fact, the stock Z rack is actually a touch longer than the Subaru Rack!!! This rack was from an early 90's Legacy,

This was a great idea Jon, firstly how you made your rotisserie (I copied what you did) but also how you put it into position, worked like a charm, just made the rotisserie from 900kg engine stands and added some gussets so connect up the engine stand, set it for 500kg's and put on the rotisserie in about 15mins by myself! Well done mate!!!

That engine sits so much lower than the RB30!!! I couldn't close my bonnett with the top-mount t3/t4 Chinese hand-grenade slapped to the side of the engine!

Pretty sure the stock 280zx driveshaft will bolt straight-up, almost certain I remember another fellow using the stock driveshaft with R32 RB20 engine mounts and an RB20DET & 5spd - But I cant say this is a certainty!!! Radiator connections, throttle linkage, exhaust and intercooler piping need to be taken into consideration, but as for mounting the engine and gearbox its a reasonably straight forward prospect!!! Well that sucks - there is another member on this forum 260DET (or something like that) who is in Australia who said that it wasn't difficult to do, but I didn't get any response with I probed for details!!!

Yes I did ! But it was a bit of a blanket statement - all cars, all spoilers I am sure is not exactly correct!!! However, the point of the article was that the fellows doing the tests on their particular car's different front spoiler creations was that unless they reduced ground clearance to an unrealistically low amount (for a street driver car) they couldn't really increase downforce at the front of the car via a spoiler - not unless you could mechanical raise it when required

, Well they aren't identical - but there is certainly a resemblance there, and I don't think it would be tough to imagine that a lot of people would assume they are the same car, or at least from the same family!!! The Newer Z looks a little ugly and not really all that much like an S30, the Z4 BMW looks more like the original Z and in it's own right a sh#tload better than the 350/370z! This is the Marcos - This looks more like an S30! And once again, a lot nicer to look at than the 350/370z!!!

This is more what the new Z should look like, http://www.marcos-eng.com/gallery.html 350z & 370z look to much like Audi TT's!!!

I have seen two 240-280z's with the VG30 in it - one was the SOHC, the other a DOHC, both running a single turbo - see if I can grab a pic of it!

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=170932&page=5 Lots more information!!! And - that is very cool!!! (This is an extract from Nicoclub forums) "The confusion is that you didn't read what I posted. WE HAVE SWAPPED MOTORS USING VG MISSIONS WITH RB BELLHOUSINGS. Should I make it bigger and more bold next time? Must have been in dreamland when doing these motorswaps... (also used VG missions on L series bellhousings on S30's) Don't let the door hit you on the way out smart guy. "

I spoke to a fellow and apparently you can bolt together a 5spd manual gearbox from a 300zxtt to an RB engine, All you need to do is remove the bellhousing from the RB26 gearbox (which no one wants as what can most people do with awd gearbox!!!), remove the bellhousing from the 300zxtt gearbox and install the RB26 gearbox and hey presto your away!!! The input shaft throw the pilot bearing apparently needs about 1mm taken off it as well, but could just ream out the material required to get it to fit!!! These gearbox's would easily be as strong as the RB25 turbo box, but about $1000AUD cheaper to purchase!!! I know these boxes arent like a Supra gearbox where the forward most piece of the bellhousing detaches - you disconnect it from the further back bolts, from the pic below - the bolts just in front of the shifter housing!!!

YAY !!! Thanks for that, was wondering how it was done!!! Does the S14 crossmember bolt into the S30? Even if it did all the suspension components wouldnt work out me thinks............ If you are looking at a cheap easy way to slap an RB into a Z, go to www.rodshop.com.au and purchase a set of their Z-RB engine mounts, think they were around $150AUD or so, which at the moment is about 30 US cents !!! they do push the engine back a bit though - depending on what gearbox you are using (skinny RB20) you can just offset your original Z gearbox crossmember (Fat RB25) cut out the original mounts and throw in some new ones, I will get pics of both for you mate! I should also have pics of the Rodshop mounts, but they really dont look a lot different from the original VL/R31 Skyline Engine Mounts!!! There is a fellow in QLD, Australia who said he put the entire front and rear subframes from an S14 into an S130 and it was more or less a straight bolt in - if I had the S130 I would be doing that for sure!!!

Jon I am pretty sure they started off with a Cressida with a single bonnet bonnet scoop (little thing) mounted at the front LHS of the bonnet right above the intercooler, intially air from inside the engine bay was pushing out through this opening, not actually sucking it in, After slapping on a belly-pan and additional bonnet vents air ended up being sucked through this intercooler bonnet scoop and the radiator worked a lot better, However, the point I was getting at was the people in the autospeed articles started off trying to get more downforce for their street driven cars but instead, it appears, got caught up with things they didnt expect to happen, which was the radiator and intercooler working better with improved fuel efficiency via the installation of a belly-pan and appropriately place vents, Another point from memory was it was pretty much impossible to create much downforce on a street driven car with stuff like front spoilers and splitters because you had to get it really low, impractically low just like your saying mate! So I think there is a place for this sort of stuff on a street driven Zed, just not for the sole purpose of increasing downforce, or probably that purpose at all !!!

78ZLT1, Just trying to clarify which Camry you got your Power Windows from, Did the Camry look like this? Or like this?

"Heres the thing though, some one commented that the flat belly wouldnt make much of a difference unless the car was very low, thats not 100% true. I think that statement is a bit too general." I read through some articles from autospeed.com a while ago about installing flat underbelly pans, from memory they started out trying to increase downforce but ended up not really focusing on that goal and were more interested in Engine Cooling, Intercooler Cooler and Fuel Efficiency, Think they used a Toyota Echo and on a highway, travelling at 80km's/hr reduced fuel consumption from 5.5-6L/100km's to in the mid 4's with the addition of a well designed under engine bell-pan that sloped down towards the front wheels - and the other car was some 7MG powered early 90's toyota - with front spoiler, under engine belly pan and "correctly" placed hood vents, all done with the aid of an Magnehelic Differential Pressure gauge, were able to get the radiator to work better and air to go in through the intercooler hood vent instead of being pushed out of the engine-bay through it, which is what it was doing before the underbelly pan from memory, Even if you don't get more downforce, which you probably won't without dropping the car a bit, you could possibly end up with a radiator that works better and a car that is slightly better on fuel - if you design it correctly!!!

"I have RB engine mounts, I think they would work in the S30 with a bit of work too and they're quite solid." Careless, Depends what RB mounts you have? R31, R33 Skyline and VL Commodore absolutely don't allow you to bolt an RB engine into a S30! I spend a fun, fun day trying all of them !!! even intermixing them with no joy!!! However, apparently RB20 earlier R32 engine mounts will allow you to slap an RB engine into an S30 - with the stock gearbox crossmember and drive shaft - but I didnt have any to trial to see if this is true!

Sorry, this took me ages to get some pics!!! Enjoy!!! & Engine Mounts

1) I have a S2 RB25DET in my 260Z, however the heater water lines from the RB are larger diameter than the fittings protruding through the firewall from the 260Z heater. How are people reducing the water lines or increasing the 260Z hard fittings to match? Thats weird - my RB30 lines were the same as the Datsun heater lines! Have you stuck some calipers on them? what is the difference in circumference? 2) The RB carbon cannister is on the exhaust side of the engine and 260Z lines to the tank are on the intake side (i.e. opposite), how have people routed the lines/mounted the cannister to suit this? Throw it away , My car is a 74 and pre-pollution and In the ACT my car has to conform the pollution & noise standards of the date of production of the vehicle, in NSW its the engine, is that the case in VIC? - Pretty sweet, I have to conform to 1974 pollution and noise standards!!! I don't need cats, carbon cannister and apparently the exhaust note can hit 98 decebls !!!

Hey Z2000, Throw this on the side of it !!! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HONDA-S2000-VORTECH-SUPERCHARGER-KIT_W0QQitemZ250327645157QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item250327645157&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Looks like there is plenty of room for it!!!

"i wouldnt do it out of 3mm steel. for one it'd be heavy, and secondly, if you ever ran into anyone else, they would be like 2 big ramming blades, once the rest of the thin panel work around it peeled away, which it would. i could easily see them puncturing a door in a side on impact." , that made me laugh - I could also put some arrow shaped points on the end of the chassis rails and go nuts, "Cut me off will ya buddy!!!" !!! Yeah, think your right, its like 0.8mm thick steel there now, thinking that if I did make it out of 1.2mm, even without the lip it will be pretty strong! But what you suggested is a much better idea - cut out the guts, leave the lip and graft on new steel - but it will be butt-welded or it would look terrible, so might not be all that strong, however, all the importmant bits (bonnet latch and bumper-bar) will be bolted up to the new steel which will be connected to my new radiator support panel - so would be as strong as if I just slapped in some new steel and did away with the old stuff all-together!!! Good suggestion mate! Just curious, but love to see pics of what other folks have done at the front of their cars!!! Wouldnt mind grafting but just finding that sort of thing locally is next to impossible,

Hey guys, was wanting to pick some brains for possible ideas and pics of what other folks have done to their front ends! Some background....................I am currently about half-way through re-doing my chassis rails and have ended up removing the radiator support panel and everything below the original chassis rails, What I am left with is shown below in the pics! and its a touch ordinary!!! The area in front of the new blue radiator support panel is what concerns me, this area is double skinned and the piece on the inside (engine bay side) is pretty stuffed!!! What I was thinking of doing is basically replacing this second inner skin with 1-3mm thick steel, it is .8mm thick from the factory and has a lip on it, I dont think I can reproduce this lip, hence why the increase in metal thickness! Is this a good idea? I still need to mount the bonnet latches in about the same position as it is currently and I also need to have holes for my bumper-bar - Is there any other ways people have modified their front ends, love to see some pics of modified front ends or opinions on if my current idea is a good one! Here are some pics!!!

Here is some pics of my RB30 powered Zed!!!

Well the fuel rail from an RB30 shouldnt fit an L28? Are they N/A or Turbo injectors from the RB30? IF..........the RB30 injectors will fit into the L28 rail, then dont use them!!! Use R32 GTR injectors - if RB30 injectors will fit onto an L28 rail, R32 GTR injectors will to!!! - they flow 440cc from memory, whilst the RB30 N/A injectors flow something like 180-220 and the turbo flow about 250cc, not much chop for high HP applications, well not compared with the GTR anyways!!! Should be able to jump on EBAY AUD and pick up a set of GTR injectors for $250AUD or so!

Holley's are fanastic! easiest thing in the world to tune - so much more fun than playing with EFI , However, I used to own a Valiant Charger with a 4.3L straight six, (old Dodge truck motor from the 60's ), when I first got it there was a 4bbl manifold and a 4bbl Holley 465cfm, was awesome when you floored it going in a straight line, but second you went round a corner would lean out terribly and car would always stutter and stop...........and then off you go again!!! It was a very poor design, unequal runners - 1st and 6th runners were at least twice as long as the 3rd and 4th runners - some pistons got starved of air/fuel and some were getting to much - could have been sh#t head design as well, I dont know!!! But was a real pain in the a@s!!! This same engine however did not have any of the same issues once you slapped tripple webbers onto the side of it!!! Just always make me a bit sketchy about slapping a single 4bbl onto a straight six after that experience!!!

I purchased a set of adjustable lower control arms so would like to try and get as much adjustment as possible - however, as I will be moving the inner control arm pivots points to line up with the rack ends that will give me about a degree of camber, so probably dont need to adjust it out much further than that , I went searching for a set of S80 volvo rack ends and couldnt find them locally, local auto parts stores did track down 1999-2001 volvo racks (have no idea what they are from though as that was all the information they could provide me) but surprisingly they actually fit and did not bottom out - ie required no cutting of the inner-rack to Subaru rack connection! Good to know the Celica is another option aswell!!! I got sick of trying to figure out how to mount the rack, route the lines and intermediate shaft with my Subaru rack conversion so I did this instead !!! Much easier to run the lines now !!!