Here comes trouble
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Posts posted by Here comes trouble
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Give it some rest and drive it carefully for awhile to see what developes. Had an old Datsun 620 pick-up with 250,000 mile on the original clutch which slipped one time in wet weather going thru a big mud puddle. The clutch never failed but the engine did. Left it in Klamath Falls because it didn't have the power to get over the Cascade Mtns. back to Eugene. Went five years without a radiator cap because exhaust pressure would blow the radiator if capped.. Never figured that problem out!
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The sight of triple side drafts is enuff to make your heart skip and gasp for air but................. My old silver Z EFI set for over two years without the motor turned once.. I charged the battery and momentarily hit the ignition switch to check if the engine was frozen. The next hit on the ignition switch had the engine running immediately....despite the turd neighbor kid had siphoned most of the gas out of the tank over two years ago..Soup up the EFI and detail that out.
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For the money you have in that set-up..... remove the heads and intake and clean using vaccum and air pressure... wipe with an oily rag (Lubriplate works good and tends to make crap easily observable) Drain the oil and fill crankcase with diesel fuel (very inexpensive cleaner for engine insides)..replace oil filter. then carefully with frequent inspections and cleaning by all methods at your disposal turn the crank with socket and ratchet. While I was away someone borrowed my Datsun pick-up and blew a head gasket with oil getting into the water system and water into the lubrication system. Number 3 cylinder set for over two years with water in it and on the full down stroke! Water was still present when I took off the head.... (so I still got good rings ? I hope)... Basically what I describe above is what I am doing to the L20 B engine.. I got the pistons free without breaking the piston rings by soaking the tops with a WD 40 and Lubriplate cocktail. If you spend some time and be careful you will get the sand out even if it has traveled all the way to the oil pan. Some may question this method but it will work but will take time... I would actually remove the oil pan and clean it before flushing with diesel if the sand is present in the oil pan..
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John.... here is something out of the 1978 Z shop manual which appears the rear spring constant is 127.7 pounds to the inch at a free length of 15.43 " and the front is 115.4 pounds to the inch at a free length of 15.71" and the damping force is the same for all corners at piston speed 0.3 m (1.0 ft)/sec...... Expansion/Compression : 121 lb/66 lb.....Why the difference in the expansion and compression ?? for oscillation effect Attn: ANON..... I happen to have 4 chrome 12 inch 180 pound Carreras from e Bay that were delivered to the door for less tha $50.00 three years ago (for my 250 GTO project). but would it really matter if we exchanged a pair of them between ourselves to have a 5 pound difference???? I plan to mount them all and hope my fat rump in the weight distribution gives a satifactory oscillation from front to back. Oh that tickles..cheap thrills
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Sorry no pictures On the door... the latch parts are inside the door with a slit in the sheet metal for operation access.. On the door opening there is this stud intergrated to an L shaped round guide bar all on a plate using 3 mounting holes... Looks like it is beyond wearing out and improvement over earlier models. It also looks like the 78 doors and doorway striker plate could interchange on an earlier model. Since my earlier post my closing problem was solved by a liberal dose of WD-40
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280 Z valence/gravel pan is way over 31 inches wide and does not have a notch in the middle of the top... On each side, is there mounting holes and?or attachments provisions???? if there are no provisions for mounting on the sides .. I doubt it is a datsun original part but if all the mounting provisions are on the top edge .....it is probably some kind of spoiler
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You can probably have the cylinder head holes bored to accommodate larger diameter head bolts without boring into some cylinder head passage way but the cam towers which are already grooved to accept the stock bolts may present a problem with a larger bolt head. This is probably the best solution so far since it may not be feasible to weld up the hogged out holes in the block. Fall Creek is 15 miles east of Eugene, Oregon which is about 175 miles north of the California border on Interstate 5
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As previously mentioned the 280 Z will have the saw tooth marker plate mounted on the passenger side with two bolts to the aluminum timing chain cover...The two required different sized bolts for the timing maker are seperated in distance by about two inches...and the outer timing marker larger bolt is also utilized as a timing chain cover bolt..... ............................with the two bright links of the timing chain on the corresponding cam and crankshaft at TDC the notch in the cam sprocket should show a witness line on the cam tower. All the Z's and L 20 B engines were always timed from the passenger side and the older ones as Mr. Mortenson explained have the single pointer mounted to the timing chain cover with the crankshaft pulley notched for timing marks.And as Thumper opines: "you may have the 240 pointer on the wrong side of the 280 timing chain cover"
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Papa Smurf before you buy U-joints for that 78 280 Z.... jack the car up or get it on a lift and Then get under there and manhandle that drive shaft and half shafts to check for clunks and thunks. With a little twisting and elbow grease bad u joints can be identified. One problem with a 78 Z is that they came with non-replaceable u-joints. Apparently this problem can be remedied by a machine shop. My 78 has replaceable u joints but I believe this was due to an exchange with an earlier drive shaft. Terry's suggestion is also very plausible as the source for the noise since that IRS rear has a lot of parts going whiz and zip-zip
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Good fix for doors...........My 78 Z does not have the same latch as yours but another 280 Z (1975) out back does. My passenger side door does not want to properly latch but that maybe due to lack of use and lubrication. The 1975 parts car opens and closes like new.
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I remember from a few years back he was awful partial in his repair work to one wrench.....the " doall"....or aka: the crescent wrench
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After the 3 holes were hogged out crooked for the "last resort" heli coil fix .....I doubt much can be done without the aid and skill of of a super welder to refill the holes.. Come to Fall CreeK and I will give you a block. Like Terry said....."legal Action"............The job was not done right and any machinist knows that you cannot drill a precision hole for a headbolt without careful set-up to square the work piece. Probaly done with an electric hand drill with the use of only one drill size selection to accomodate the heil-coil.The hole could be properly enlarged by increasing the size of the drill bits gradually until the finished size was accomplished to accomodate the heil coil. No matter how good the drill bit or cutting tool is there will be some wobble at the end of the cutting tool but re-drilling the holes crooked is negligence or inexperience on the part of the operator for lack of set-up prep.. Crooked heil-coils has nothing to with performance and should be a routine repair for any shop. Ask some welding shops if they can fill and repair the holes and then have the holes drilled straight and re-tapped but my better judgment says "bite the bullet" and get another block..........not good to tinker with tourqe
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A GM 3800 engine, if mounts and transmission could be sorted out would be slightly more powerful motor than the stock Z motor. My wife keeps the road hot with an old "88" model 93 Oldsmobile with this reliable 3800 engine that does not seem to burn oil without oil changes or any other type of regular maintenance. A heavy car that can get on the freeway with room to spare !
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To hone cylinders...... There is a 3 blade adjustable hone that can be attached to a half inch drill. The trick is to move the hone up and down while spinning to gain a cross hatch surface on the cylinder wall. There is another hone for a half inch drill that looks like a minature chimney sweep tool with marble size balls at the ends of wire rods.This maybe the better tool since the adjustable balde hone can fly out of the bore when the hone is operated partially out of the bore which tends to break the hone stones. Use some light oil on the cylinder walls while honing. As for bearings. there is this string that can be bought at a parts house to roughly measure bearing tolerance by removing the bearing and laying the string across the bearing surface and then re-installing the bearing and retourquing the cap. Take the caps back off and measure the width of the compressed string. The string comes inside a paper wrapping that has printed gauge sizes to compare to your compressed string....ie the wider the flattened string.. the tighter the bearing.. as mentioned in the other post the middle bearing is very important and should be checked for movement back and forth with a large screwdriver as a "gentle" pry bar with a feeler gauge. You need a Haynes or Clymer repair manual to go into more depth of the "how to".
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The two door has to be rare. I never saw one, but many 4 doors on west coast. Very interesting improvements.
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Kind of between a rock and a hard spot with the rust. All west coast z's are not rust free since some came from back east.There is a posibility that a person could come out west find an almost rust free Z between $1000-2000. and drive it back or ship it. First generation cheap z's are getting hard to find here in Oregon....................Too much rust is when you cannot cut it all out and weld in replacements. As for the rust pictured... I have seen a lot worse here in the rust free West.
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In tempering steel, 400-500 degress is the top end for relieving stress in steel and 1200 degrees will get it as soft as possible. Your block is high grade cast iron (not steel). Ceramic coating is advertised to keep the heat in. I have always heard that flat black will disipate heat faster than any color. By powder coating the block you maybe relieving stresses in the cast iron that are beneficial or are part of the bore. The powder coat may retain heat in the block more than normal. Contact powder coat manufacturers and ask them the effect powder coating has on cast iron blocks and if they recomend it for that purpose.
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I am so relieved, the one in Hood River had no sun roof and would easily be indentifiable with the falt tire (right front) I can still dream on.................
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The car appears from the photos to have set in a garage for some time. Non-coastal Oregon cars have little rust. You might not find a better low cost deal than this.
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The Chinese built a Great Wall to protect themselves from ancient terrorists. The fortifications are reportedly observable from the Moon. The US is building a great technology barrier around our perimeters to protect us. China and India are utilizing vast amounts of the black gold to supply us with cheap plastic goods that is displacing American workers and bankrupting American business'. Wal Mart reigns supreme while domestic auto manufacturers have junk bonds to peddle. Bill Gates looks to the far east for technology inovations and recruitment. Coca Cola has made a beach head in China. Our few exports to foreign shores consist of raw materials. The Asiatic demand for raw materials to meet our consumption needs are so great, we are also exporting our raw materials in exchange for future land fill plastic fodder. We have the best knee-jerk politicians money can buy. Protect us from ourselves.
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Prostratenation cancelled the festivities for me. I was prepared to go but.... one of those last minute changes. I hear there is a new product promising 36 hours with a few side effects but it's ready when you are! Imagine that.
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eleven large? Really not much when you consider the Pearl comes with an 8 track and an original jack. I saw one Black Pearl with a flat tire resting near a shed near Hood River. Oregon about 7 years ago and still regret that I did not turn around and negotiate. Something about a pearl that never leaves your imagination. The seller is not from Hood River .....is he?
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My contacts with MSA were not that pleasant and I always felt insulted after I hung the phone up..I will go out of my way to avoid them and whole heartedily encourage others to support the remaining Datsun Z vendors and search e-Bay.
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Gee! Chelle!.... Back in 2002, your first posts concerned a fuel/line/pump delivery problem. Apparently that problem was solved. I am impressed with your latest resolve.
To Powder Coat The Motor Or Not Is The Question?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
My point was to consult a powder coat manufacturer if in doubt about powder coating an engine block.. You are right a black car left in direct sunlight will get hotter than a white car similarly placed but we are not talking about sunlight heat absorbtion on surfaces but heat generated inside an internal combustion engine. Being from the North west, I have been around a few wood stoves that put out more heat to the room than up the chimney if painted black. Cast iron is a remarkable substance when it comes to high temperature and transfer of heat but oil seems to go crappo when exposed to high heat and you cannot seem to change the oil enough for a turbo charged car