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HybridZ

Here comes trouble

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Posts posted by Here comes trouble

  1. the seller has the head light covers which is somthing that cannot be sourced locally..... The VR, Stable Works/Blue Ray GT and Thunder Ranch kits all take the same headlight covers...... and I hear Ferarri headlight cover trim rings fit....

  2. Thr shaft can slip out when the oil pump is removed.....Replace the shaft when the parts shaft...... remove and examine the shaft in your car for damage as 510 6 suggests....... If you are working alone... get yourself some small needle nose vice grips to hold the shaft in place after it is reinstalled to keep it from slipping out if the spade tip of the shaft is not at 11:30 at the dizzy end for proper timing purposes............................... Remove dizzy............Bring the crankshafr pulley/damper to TDC.... ...............install your shaft so the punch mark on the shaft lines up with the oil hole on the oil pump shaft................................ Check up on top to see if the dizzy end of the shaft's spade is pointed at 11:30 looking straight down at the top of the shaft. or ...........the top end of the spade should be pointed slightly to the right of the dizz'y's top mounting hole on the timing chain cover and the other side of the shaft spade tip should be pointed slightly to the left of the dizzy mount bottom bolt hole on the timing chain cover or i.e. 1130......... ................................................................................if not at 11:30... now use the needle nose vice grips to place the shaft so it's spade tip reads 11:30.. ...........................................line up the oil pump's internal slot with a spade screw driver and reinstall the oil pump while the top of the shaft is locked in place and held by the needle nose vice grips at 11:30( explaination: the spade tip of the shaft slips into the dizzy's slot at the bottom end of the dizzy shaft and the oil pump is slotted to take the other end of the shaft's spade tip .....Doing the reinstall in this manner resolves any later timing surprises and wrote as simply as I camn

  3. Ynot...LOL! those kits were pirated and splashed or sold so many times for molds it would take a team of historians and some federal judges to unravel that mystery. I worked on a recent (3 years ago) Thunder Ranch product under whose production management only the Thunder Ranch tax accountant would be able to identify and now that mystery is solved...Thunder Ranch is still using Joe Alphabet's original molds which explains why so many of the later body parts are so warped coming from Thunder Ranch........I suspect whatever manufacture.. this kit cane from "back in the day" when they were "built".

  4. If you are really anxious to know ....drain the oil and take off the rear cover plate on the diff ..rotate the big ring gear until you see some numbers stamped in the edge facing you... "39:11" is a 3.54 and 37:10 is 3.70 and any thing under 37.10 is either 3.90 or 4.11 an while "you are at it" switch to rear discs, snug that diff down, instal coilovers, install poly suspension bushings all the way around and change the radiator cap.

  5. The various kits were at $3900.00.... if that's a receessed rear licenese plate reseptacle it might be a Stable Auto Works Blue Rhino GT etc....... Thunder Ranch had more of a curve to the fenders and hood.. Aipha usually had this little 1x10 vent indentation behind the side windows. The headlight covers are close to $200.00 for the set and the seller has them

  6. Vinh.... definitely worth your trouble for a visit since no one seeme to be bidding and a few days left...I would like to see what you could do to that one after viewing your ZX which is proof that the ZX should have been offered as a topless model too. Looks like the fellow pushed it out of the garage for the photos

  7. If the block was magnafluxed,bored and honed...it would be worth more....but hopefully more members will join in on value..... I would assume your market would be with a restorer with a 260 Z....my estimate would be in the neighborhood of $200.00 plus ?????

  8. MHO.. sell the block also and make more money and wait for another good deal on a better engine or one you can make pocket money with...... don't fall in love with a 2600 when you can have more. You have the right idea buy some more and sell off the parts which could be fun and profitable.

  9. Ask the owner what he would like to ($) get out of the car or how much were you "hoping to recieve"... never brag a car up or that you are a Z lover..... 4 or 5 spd.... R200 or R180 diff. Lowering springs or coilover.... strut cartridges ? new suspension bushings? Here is a goods one... "What kind of gas mileage does those 3 carburators get in town". Determine his price and Bid low and go from there. John C's value is in the ballpak but I would start with a $300.00 offer....... here is a example I saw some black cloth Recaro bucket seats at a garage sale for $175.00 and the old woman in trailer park knew exactly what they were but I doubt she will get that price.... I could go back in a week after her weekend sale and offer $50.00 I am not bashful buying things with my money if not mercanary. $50.00 are what they are worth to me because sooner later I will see a Recaro set for sale for $50.00 like the first set I saw at a garage sale 10 years ago and was too stupid not to buy.

  10. Is the seller an owner who put a lot of work and money into the car or a "speculator" who picked up for a song expecting to make a kill on eBay with the opening bid and reserve with all the right options.. The Borg Warner T5 was an option in the turbos and a 1983 LSD would be special ordered. A centerforce one would be comparable to stock clutch...Maybe so much power a Centerforce two was needed to prevent slippage.

  11. Why limit yourself to a 1974 L 26 #P30 block of 2600 CC... Start with the best block:'81-83 280 ZX # F54 block.with stock flat top pistons and a P79, p90 or p 90 a head will give you 8.8:1 compression. The p 90 head flows with larger valves. Without buying a lot of expensive new parts you can swap a lot of good used Datsun parts. Decking an engine sight unseen is crap without any prior measurements first. You can do so much more with the 81-83 blocks not to mention many parts that can be utilzed for performance. Do not underestimate the quality of Datsun engines and parts.

  12. Thanx for the correction on the high electrical heat range on aluminum welding since I have never welded aluminum with the "Crapsman" but I have cast aluminum parts many times and it does melt at low temperature with anything other than an electrical source.

  13. Welcome.... Most members here are into changing out the rear drums for disc brakes.......and not rebuilding the drum system.... my advice is since I have never bought any new drum accessories since I pull that kind of hardware off parts cars.(and usually when I lose the parts not wear them out).... is for you to get acquainted with junk yards for a lot of your needs because the occupation with old Z cars can become expensive for a drum brake Z car that was last produced in 1978. Always leave one brake drum intact or only work on one side so you can figure out where that one piece should go when you think you are finished with that side..

  14. I directly bolted in a L20 B 4 speed out of a 620 Pick-up into a 1977 Z originally equipped with a 5 speed that a few gears were shot.... I contend that all the the transmissions originally equipped with the L20 B (2000cc) engines are just as strong and the same as Z transmission cases but with slightly different gear ratios. The pickup 4 speed would make the Z (with a weak motor) front end come up surprisingly high in first and second gear and screech the tires in the first two gears. 4th gear was obviously 1.00 but first gear was in the neighborhood of 3.6 2nd gear :2.1 and 3rd: 1.4 ( my estimate) and I assume if you want tall 5th gears for cruising the 81-83 Z's or turbo fifth gear would make a good choice . I would assume that the 620 pick-up from 1977 ...4th and fifth gears would be similar or close to 77,78,78 ,79 non turbo z's and the various gears should interchange in the identical transmission cases...my opinion.

  15. Shodog: if the pig tails all lead into a wrapped wire harness that runs alongside underneath the passenger door..the smaller 2 pin pig tail is driver's seat belt switch....the 6 spade terminal pig tail is for the floor sensor relay used on California models... the four spade terminal pigtail is for the brake warning lamp check relay

  16. the pictures of your 280 ZX convertible ....best ZX convertible I ever saw.. The Nalle history is quite interesting. I wanted one of these kits but by the time I recieved the Stable works GTO kit , Origin converible kit and the Tomahawk (# 8 kit) it appeared Nalle had quit advertising..I was broke anyway. After viewing the photo's: ...............................................................................................................QUESTION Was a Fererri 250 GTO kit used to mock up the Nalle Cobra Cobra. It appears from the red modified Cobra coupe that a replica 250 GTO could have been utilized to make the plug for the mold. Rory Bateman used an early production "Stallion" Cobra kit body (which is oversized slightly to a standard Cobra ) as a plug for the Tomahawk Z kit. The original English AC sports car was a loose copy of a 50's Ferrari. Hopefully, Eric Nyerlin can utilize the Nalle History for his website since he dies maintain a Z car kit history http://www.zparts.com/home.html

  17. Aluminum melts at around 1200 degress which means the welder has to have very low heat setting and as mentioned a very good "slick" lining in the wire feed cable because the aluminum wire is fragile and soft. tending to feed improperly for lack of strength. A spool gun actually is preferable to the wire feed cable stinger gun system. An argon mix will help. I have never tried it in my Sears "Crapsman" mig welder but good migs as Miller and Lincoln should weld aluminum wire put of a cable stinger with practice and experience. Try it!

  18. I made a left hand turn at a stop sign once when the steering locked placing the car in the ditch....... I later removed the ignition collar around the steering column which is usually held by 4 screws with two being "theft proof" which require the heads drilled off. I threw the ignition collar that locks the steering wheel in the trash and repaced the ignition with a 620 Pickup ignition switch using it's locking nut and washer to secure to the Z plastic ignition steering column surround..........If your ignition has not been replaced for awhile...... a filed down key will work or try about 10 different Datsun style keys and one should work..In this county the leading car for theft was 70-80's Datsuns because of the easy entry due to the keys interchangability and worn out key ways. Ocbaar had his Z stolen twice and the last time he gave chase on foot at 3:00 AM but the thief did not stop at the first stop sign leaving Ocbaar in the dust.. His only description of the thief was greasy long hair. Apparently Ocbaar was unsucessful in opening the rear hatch to gain access to persuade the thief to abandon all efforts of misconduct.

  19. All of them...shy away from a 1980 five speed because for some reason Datsun had it for one year ?...The turbo Borg Warner T5 is debateable for non turbo and you will need the works and driveshaft.... I would go for an early 77-79 tranny with a 3.90 or 4.11 diff ...get throw out bearing and clutch fork.. because of differences... an 81 -83 tranny will probably be more reliable with less surprises and compatiable to your diff and pinion flange which may save $$$$$$$ my opinion and I have absolutely no experience with the Borg Warner T5 and have only seen pictures.

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