Here comes trouble
-
Posts
656 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Here comes trouble
-
-
see private message
-
Go to Home Depot There are inexpensive steel anchor post brakets for 4X4 posts. Concrete the steel post pipe bottom in with the attached 4X4 bracket on top of the concrete where the 4X4 can be positioned between the brackets and lag screwed in place leaving the wood post above ground. I had some cedar posts that rotted out and made my own steel brakets out of 2X2 angle iron for the post and pipe driven 24 inches into the ground as anchors on opposite (2) sides of the post without cement . I used the same bottom rotted out cedar posts without dismantling the fence.... fence is still standing and especially strong where the home built brackets are after 15 years on a 35 year old fence..
-
Mario ... you should be able to swap to the non turbo parts by removing the differential companion flange... The problem is removing the companion flange nut that is tourqed to 150 foot pounds and is peen "staked" to the drive pinion threads... The "peen stake" on the companion nut flange can be trimmed with a file or grinder and a cheater bar on a 1/2 or 3/4 inch ratchet will help remove the highly tourqed nut. OR ..........You should be able to swap the yoke assembly at the 1sr ujoint and replace the automatic yoke with the 5 spd yoke to ues the turbo droveshaft and differential companion flange which would be the best alternative
-
Jim keep your fingers crossed for luck and all will work out, you just have a couple 260 Z cars that have some differences. The rear end is the "pumpkin" ... the rear differential carrier .......engine connnected to the tranny connected to the drive shaft connected to the differential carrier ....aka: third member, pumpkin, rear end or differential carrier....... if you have an R200 differential carrier in your Z parts car , it would be wise to swap it into your driver Z
-
Jim, I did not mean to confuse the issue... If you can salvage all the parts ... you most likely will not have to buy anything.... first get the tranny in..... I have uesd 2 xtra long metric bolts to guide amd align the tranny up to the engine block. The long threaded bolts when tightened also will pull the tranny in alignment towards the engine and make the installation much easier. Remember when the transmission shaft.(main drive gear) begins to insert into the engine these parts to be connected are splined and cannot be forced. which is also a need to have the rear tires off the ground so the transmission main drive gear shaft can be slightly spun by turning the (propellar) drive shaft by hand to align the splined parts of engine and transmission . The long guide bolts are removed when installing the regular bolts............... if the driveshaft does not fit remove the (rear end) third member companion flange and nut and replace with the other companion flange from the standard shift Z. The companion flange large nut is "stake " peened to hold it in place and is tourqued to at least a "big time" 159 foot pounds. Rather than swapping 3rd member companion flanges and strong arming the big flange nut.......swap out the 3 rd members. which is probably an easier alternative.. than companion flange swapping I have used a 3/4 inch ratchet with cheater bar and still had difficulty removing companion flange nut when the 3rd member was out of the car after carefully trimming the "stake" peened nut. Your automatic equipped car most likely has the smaller R 180 3rd member (rear end) while the standard tranny may have the stronger R 200 (and interchanges easily). The 3rd member (rear end) ratio should be 3.54 to one for both transmissions....... Surprisingly the L 20B 4 cylinder sedans and pickups with automatic transmissions had 4.10 to 1 non IRS 3rd members (rear ends).. I would not be surprised that some Z's with automatics may have 3.90 or 4.10 gear ratio rear ends in earlier models.. My 78 280 Z with auto has a 3.54... R 180.
-
Jim ... The 76-78 280 Z drive shafts are 20 CM longer than a 240 drive shaft... Some 1975 drive shafts were 10 mm shorter and the rear bolt pattern of the drive shaft will not fit onto a 1976 and later R 200 differential.
-
get it in and running......you will be surprised how fast the next corner or a street light appears directly in front of you.
-
with setting that long and then driving it for an extended period..... could be fuel filter..... Also try removing gas cap before starting (no joke).. I am about to go thru the entire fuel system on my 280 Z.. It will not run right without fuel cap off. Probably about every other thing is plugged from setting too long
-
A picture worth a 1000 words so i clicked on "My Photo Album"...... I am now mystified beyond comprehension. Your theoretical applications are not working unless you are trying to predict at what RPM an internal combustion engine will implode or explode or both..... or is it melt down. Rocket science or grievance resolution
-
Something should be said for modification moderation. I believe that modifications to a Z should be done without allowing any 30 day interval of time to lapse where the Z is not operable. So many things can get lost or stolen and forgotten if not frozen into one big pile of expensive junk which unfotunately my Tomahawk Z has become.
-
Mike ...your family is more important than anything else.... and what you have been doing in Texas will enrich your opportunities in Florida.. I looked out for my dad and lived next door to him the last 5 years of his life. One of our last convesations, he again expressed his apreciation for me. The five years was my most enjoyable time and something I will always be proud of.. My dad died at 81 of kidney failure at home on August 20, 2001 with me taking care of him without an admission to a nursing home. Larry Johnson :aka Tomahawk Zee
-
The wait paid off double...... Congratulations... .................... from Larry Johnson: AKA Tomahawk Zee
-
This is not a brush-off to your questions..... but obtain for your self a JTR Manual to convert a Z to a SBC... which will answer most of your questions.. with a fundemental knowledge of this book will enable you to follow these posts where you can confine your questions to problematic issues. There is a majority of members well past converting their Z's and their concerns are with highly technical problems and solutions..and own their own personal wave length communication with like members in the evolution to their Z cars. Many websites of members are available to study.... I find cruizing these web sights quite insightful for my continuing education. The archives are quite extensive
-
Has Tim been absent lately? ... I suspect that he is on a mission!
-
You need a 280 Z parts car.... for extra parts and visual comparison....... Thoroughly Clean the battery terminals.. every connection from battery to starter....... try to start.............Since I have read your other posts........You may have a bad ignition switch with internal terminal not conducting enough electricty..cannot be repaired or ever reliable again.. the wiring harness can be removed from the ignition switch and hot wired ... find your hot wire on the ignition harness with a tester.. There should be no more than 5 wires total... on the opposite end on the opposite side of the hot wire connect this terminal to hot terminal (hot wire usually is white and the igniion wire black and white... don't depend on this.) when hot wire and ignition wire arced together should cause your gauges to activate..... Now find your starter ignition terminal.... touch it to the connected "hot and ignition" terminals which should cause the starter to turn.. when engine starts... remove starter jump wire.. to shut off engine... disconnect battery and ignition hot wire connection. If this does not work.. post again. Welcome to the world of old 25+ year old cars.
-
Invest in a combination 10-12 mm flare nut wrench and dis-connect the brake lines because unless you have very long brake lines you will not have enuff reach to arc that strut assembly out far enuff for strut cartridge removal. Bleeding brakes has been the least of my problems in this operation if the struts have not been removed in quite awhile... those inside thread gland nuts on top of the strut tubes like their position so well they want permanent residence by virtue of a rust homestead requiring some skills with a torch
-
Stock 280 Z springs: 115 # @ front..15.71" free length 9.5 turns of coil____________________..127# @ rear.....15.43" free length...8.5 turns of coil. My Tomahawk Z has the 10 inch- 165 -180 coilover spring rate.
-
No wonder it is slammed lower than you want........the first picture shows 4 coils already compressed.........My coilover on the Tomahawk places the front cross member at ( a way too low) 3 1/2 inches from the ground and the adjusting nut is at the very bottom of the adjusting sleeve. With the coilovers I can adjust up for several inches for needed height. Return those red buggers or brush guard and skid plate the undercarriage.
-
He was great at characterizations of a person hell bent on mischief. He played a villian in "Ring of Fire" who was determined that a forest fire would cover his escape tracks. He had the ability to develope one of the most fantastic cynical leer upon his face..
-
The strut cartridges are longer and the only way they will fit if you go to a complete 280 strut assembly....The coilovers may work.... if at 10 -12 inche free length... and you will have to weld on a spring perch on to the strut tube for the coilovers to set on. Are the coilovers the right "weight" that you want ? Edit.... I see Mr. Mortenson is unravelling the problem.... If the strut cartridges are for a 280 Z..... then they will not work... or are the strut cartridges for a sectioned 280 strut assembly? ...... which you could measure the strut tubes for fit or not
-
before you cut that drive shaft into, invest in a chisel and attempt to shear those "rounded off " bolts to remove them.. The S30 coupe driveshaft from center of u joint flange to u joint flange should be 22.24 inches and the 2 + 2 is: 34.06 inches... the sleeve yoke assembly (part that slides into transmission) is 5.93 inches from tip to center of u-joint flange. Unless one car is a 2+2 the drive shafts should interchange. With the right size sharp chisel or an air powered chisel (inexpensive from Harbor Freight)the bolts can be sheared fairly easily, which will save that driveshaft for a spare and possibly some good u joints later on as a full replacement rather than buying and changing u joints..
-
Use 180 degree thermostat....run engine without thermostat until overheating problem solved........................................... dissolve about a cup of electrosol gradually in radiator....run motor till hot and leave electrosol in radiator for a few days and flush.........inspect and repeat treatment if needed........... your startter solenoid maybe out..........take an old screw driver and arc it across the starter solenoid electrical post to the starter electrical post...... if starter turns freely this may indicate a bad solenoid
-
I have the Harbor Freight tilter and was considering getting the manifold plate for engine reremoval out of a van. I was concerned about the plate attached to an aluminum manifold........ not now...... I do not want a plate on advice of Mr. Grump.........and I will convert the tilter to air power
-
I temporarily remove the thermostat after a head gasket to prevemt any vaccum locks in the circulation. Problems that I have encountered.... radiator looks good but is corroded causing overheating..needs boiling and rodding...water pump visicous crap is wore out and slliping at speed and is not allowing the fan to turn fast enuff for proper cooling.... Rather than buy a new pump I have wrapped welding wire between the visicous housing and then anchored in screws into the wire placed evenly around between the two housings to lock the fan solidly to the rotation of the water pump. Another way is to take the visicous housing apart and insert some material (silicone, thin leather, JB Weld etc) inside to solidly lock the visicous housing from free spinning........the turning fan and radiator flow may look right but but still not have the force and push to adequetely cool.You can start by locking the fan to the water pump as described above to isolate the problem .. ...................................................................................If you can find the old style non visicous style water pump and accompaning fan switch to that. I have used L 20B (same size) 4 cylinder water pumps and the smaller fans to cool a Z.... The problem in radiator flushes today that they are no stronger tha mouthwash.. Get some Electrosol dishwasher powder detergent and liberally apply to the radiator and run the engine.....After awhile ...you will see shiney brass inside ...This stuff is better than the old radiator flushes that had 3 skulls and cross bones on the label.
chopped the top on my Z!
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
http://www.zparts.com/photoads.html