Here comes trouble
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Posts posted by Here comes trouble
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Identity of the kit has got me going..LOL....the hood hinges appear to be the small Corvette hinges that are secured to the radiator support.. My Rhino/Stableworks came with the Corvette hinges and Sea Goin Putty was recomeded as an adhesive...I will check label and see what would be a solvent..
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I sent an e-mail to Bondo about their products... tomorrow I will call them....@ $20.00 a gallon the Mar Glass will go far and Vinh's suggestion with fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth as a finish touch is very practical.............................. called Bondo Corp...... seems if you do not have an extension number... you do not get thru... their directory function does not provide extension #'s ...........According to a Bondo corporate email to me...all Bondo products including Mar-Glass can be found or ordered from : HOME DEPOT, LOWES or ACE HARDWARE http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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if the Z...... the body sets on is not useable and at the price the biding has reached ..........back off because that fiberglass kit and steel body may need a special can opener to separete the parts....Maybe more trouble than it's worth. set your top bid and stick to it. the fiberglass kit will come off ..it is just a matter of when....and Speed Racer is correct on the headlight covers of compatiability to Alpha/Vello Rossa as opposed to Thunder Ranch/Stable Works.. I worked on a Vello Rossa with a Thunder Ranch nose which caused my confusion. You cannot make too many mistakes around here without correction...which is why this is a learning experience.
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I came up with 32 5/8 inch under the hatch from top of strut cartridge nut to strut cartridge nut on a 76 Z
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If the outer lip cleaned up pretty good then paint the centers black if not paint em all..but rough them up withn fine sandpaper before painting... when the budget improves then you will have more choices...In my opinion those are about the best looking Nissan mags. here is an image of a rear drum brake you requested http://www.zparts.com/tutorials/brkdrum/brkdrum_remove.html http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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look aroud for a good used 280 zx motor from 79-83.. you are in California .. so there should be a few avaiable. you could have a minute leak somewhere in the system...re-tourqe the head......I had a head gasket leak in the 78 silver Z for a long time....every once in awhile white smoke would come out of the exhaust pipe being the only indication something was wrong..and about every 2 weeks more water I added to the radiator and then one day...oil in the radiator..and engine barely could run...extreme head gasket leak.
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First Mae Wst told Carey Grant, "...come up and see me some time" and then after he got there she warned, "... slow down, you'll last longer"... go have some fun and roll with the car......next time folks will be commenting on the improvements to the car's handling...
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your distributor/oil pump drive gear on the end of the crankshaft maybe damaged but this damage would also cause eratic missing in firing spark plugs.............loose timing chain/or worn out timing chain tensioner or guides...........Try other members advice to isolate problem.... saw the handle off a spade tip screw driver and connect to an electric drill to turn dismounted oil pump and the dizzy to isolate noise or problem....turn the crankshaft with 1/2 inch ratchet with sparkplugs removed for isolation of problem...also oil pressure sending units are notorious for malfunction and leaks.
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Can Bondo fiberglass strand auto filler be used as an body panel adhesive?????....I did some surfing and found out Bondo Inc. is now the parent company for both Dyna- Glass and Mar-Glass fiberglass strand auto body filler... And there are two types of brand name Bondo fiberglass strand filler..i.e. long hair and short hair in addition to the Mar Glass and Dyna-Glass brand of products still being offered.. Rory Bateman recomends Mar-Glass as an adhesive for bonding the fiberglass Tomahawk kit body to the Datsun steel body and I have seen Dyna-Glass recomended for the same type of purposes. I used a Permalite Plastic marine product called "Sea Goin Putty" @ $200.00 for an adhesive that Stable Auto Works (250 GTO)..Since I am broke. and on a limited budget.... I am considering buying a gallon of the long fiberglass strand Bondo and using it to bond fiberglass door skins to the Z................................................................................................ any comments on Bondo...you suppose Bondo fiberglass stand filler is nothing more than Mar-Glass and Dyna-Glass with the label changed??? http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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Ring gear #'s "39:11" = 3.54........"37:10" = 3.70..... are you sure that you are not reading "37:10 on the large ring gear.. I am confused. 3.36 diffs exist but is the ring gear designation : 37.11 for a 3.36 diff.
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Your ignition pigtail is correct the way you found it.....Just about all the ignition switches of the 70's including Z, sedan and pick-up exchange.... The early ignition switch pig tails contained five wires while the later ones as yours contained 4....early models...............BLK-BLU..... empty >>>>>>BLK-white.....BLU-RED >>>>BLK-yellow-white red. My 78 Z has non-locking steering column ignition out of a 620 Pick-up..... I find it is very cheap to pop an ignition switch and locking nut and plate out of a pick-up in a Junkyard and have it re-keyed and eliminate the Z locking steering mechanisim which can be dangerous if out of alignment and can lock at speed.. Lot of these jerry rigged start buttons were used to correct a starting problem in Z's. I had a 76 with jerry rigged button ...correctly wired it and it woiud not start half the time and I went back to the jerry rigged button that started every time.
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a bad ignition switch is obvious when you hit the brakes at night and the headlights get dimmer while the brake lights are on..
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Fel Pro gasket maybe the solution.. I priced a Nissan head gasket for an L20 B.......$69.00 ........... straight edge the pan and brackets...............
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Check these Z throw out bearing comparisons http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html
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I will try PB Blaster....used a industrial product a guy brought home in his lunch bucket... the supply did not last long......it actually smoked while working and it worked
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80 bucks when I looked....does not look like $80. worth of misc.parts but for a restorer ???.... I have been looking for a horn button parts for the 240 Z laminated steering wheel for 5 years and parts are getting hard to find.
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If the rack just has "slack".... you maybe able to adjust..... adjacent to the steering shaft pinion box is a large adjust screw for a spade screw driver with a big retaining lock nut.... loosen the lock nut with front wheels off the ground and tighten the adjusting screw and then back off about a 1/4 turn and check for slack........ then fine adjust and observe ....there are shims to adjust pinion rotary torque if steering becomes difficult but that is complicated and my require a manual and special measuring devics.... basically you are adusting the steering like a front wheel bearing and you do not want the adjusting nut too tight but with enough free play to operate the steering easily with a minimum of slack.
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OldestZGuy......any 2+2's in the flock?????????
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Those brackets are even on the L20 B 4 cylinder. I would use the tightening sequence of the head bolts or the main caps of the crank dispalyed in repair manuals and start in the middle.... 1978 Z Service manual : 4.3 to 7.2 foot pounds or 0.6-to1.0 kg-m............... I use the old school non hardening black crap gasket sealer and eyeball the gasket as I tighten not using a torque wrench but my wrist discomfort with my hand gripping the 3/8 ratchet head... You don't want that oil pan gasket compressed very much.....the brackets if not warped should act as more support to seal the pan against the engine... Harbour Freight has little 1/4 inch click stop torque wrenchs in inch pounds...
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Cameron... the transmission mainshaft is splined to fit into the flywheel and crank splines of the engine and sometimes this alignment takes some fine tuning before that last inch of space comes together for tranny and engine by turning the drive shaft slightly to align the splines of the engine and tranny so the two can properly splined together
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Coupe and 2+2 clutches will not interchange because pressure plate dowel holes will not match the flywheels's... two versions of flywheels on all 75-83 motors coupe and 2+2....To use 2+2 heavier clutch requires the complete package ie flywheel , pressure plate and compatiable throw out bearing.................whatever system you use the throw out bearing has to be compatiable with the clutch and pressure plate.... Since I never had or worked on a 240...I do not know if the 280 pressure plate will mate with 240 clutch or vice versa.... ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,maybe another member can clarify this..... but the 280 flywheel and all it's entails should mate to a 240 Z motor......... I hooked up a 620 pick-up tranny to a 280 motor using all the 280 clutch , pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder and utilized an adjustable threaded rod between the clutch fork and slave cylinder. The threaded rod to adjust the clutch came from a Datsun 510 which makes it easier to adjust the clutch at the clutch fork location where you can see the slack in the clutch fork as you adjust... again the various throw out bearings can be a problem if not compatible to the whole system
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Steve's advice is right on..and soaking with WD 40 is very important...if you have not the impact wrench ... then a 1/2 inch ratchet with a 3/8 inch socket reducer to use 3/8 extension(s) and drive sockets. A swivel may come in handy when you cannot get a true straight shot with the extensions and drive socket........ I pulled a 280 L6 head once and broke about everything imagineable including all 3 exhausts nuts and 3 head bolts and the exhaust pipe still stuck as welded. I wound up pulling the engine and scrapping the (pita) motor. fortunately I had a better motor from the Tomahawk project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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Paint does not stick to aluminum very well... I also agree flat black disapates heat..... use some exhaust flat black on the radiator and scuff the finish up a little prior to painting.......................Feenatic is your icon running or just breathing hard????
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I just keep swapping parts till I get it fixed and why I keep a few parts cars about.....
what welder for $500??
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
If you have an electric dryer it should be 220.....Go to Home Depot and ask for info on how to hook up a 220 off your elecric sevice box... for light wire welding .... 110 is adequete... I can weld 3/16 th with my Sears "Crapsmen"