Moridin

Sorry to post this here. Sometimes, the carb section is a little slow. I just want to spread my question to a wider knowledge base. I'm pretty sure they are 40mm, I will check again tomorrow morning. Basically, I'm an idiot when it comes to carbs. Well, then again, I'm an idiot when it comes to cars too. I'm learning though. That's what this forum is all about. Anyways, I'm pretty sure the car is running extremely rich. Bogs really bad at low RPMs at low speed. It was like this before I put new air filters on. I may not have helped it, because I took the air horns off to put the K&N setup on. I may try to find some shorter horns. I would like to develop a ram air intake, but that is for another time. Anyways, I just had the head completely redone, so nothing should be wrong in the valve department. The exhaust is slighty black and exceptionally cool, but it also has a greasy/liquidy feeling to it when you put your hand behind it. From what I've read on a few other boards, these are conditions for a rich running car. Now, the real question, if its running really rich I'm going to have to rejet the carb then, right? I was thinking of taking it to Rebello, because I don't have that much time (I want to have the car ready to take to LA on a trip in a few weeks, but I can't live with the car eating up this much gas. Can't afford it either). I would like to go down to the drag strip and make a bunch of passes, but I don't have the money for a ton of sets of jets. Now, this is where the idiot part comes in. Are there only one set of jets involved with fuel, or are there mains, secondaries, etc...? I'm probably one of the few to ever say that fuel injection is easier for me to understand. Now, I have a 73 240Z with what I believe to be the orginal L24 (Is there any way to check on this?) It does have the original head (N42? I don't know all the casting numbers yet. Guy from Rebello said it looked to be a late 72/73 head. Anyways, I am also running headers and a larger exhaust. Not sure about what the current jets are (Any way to check that?). What goes with installing new jets if that's the problem? Do you have to take apart the whole carb? Sorry if this seems elementary to you gurus. I'm trying to learn though. Oh, when circuits come up in reference to a carb, what does that mean? Is that the system in which the fuel travels, or other systems? Basically, the questions that may be somewhat hidden in the earlier parts of my post are: 1) Is it running rich? I'm pretty sure of it. 2) What jets should I run with L24? What if it is an L28? 3) How much does a whole new set of jets cost? 4) Will I have to buy more than a few sets? Thanks a lot, Ryan I really appreciate everyone putting up with all my crap. I know a lot of it must be simple to most you, so I understand if you get frustrated. Anyways, thanks for all the kindness so far.

I'm pretty sure they are 40mm, I will check again tomorrow morning. Basically, I'm an idiot when it comes to carbs. Well, then again, I'm an idiot when it comes to cars too. I'm learning though. That's what this forum is all about. Anyways, I'm pretty sure the car is running extremely rich. Bogs really bad at low RPMs at low speed. It was like this before I put new air filters on. I may not have helped it, because I took the air horns off to put the K&N setup on. I may try to find some shorter horns. I would like to develop a ram air intake, but that is for another time. Anyways, I just had the head completely redone, so nothing should be wrong in the valve department. The exhaust is slighty black and exceptionally cool, but it also has a greasy/liquidy feeling to it when you put your hand behind it. From what I've read on a few other boards, these are conditions for a rich running car. Now, the real question, if its running really rich I'm going to have to rejet the carb then, right? I was thinking of taking it to Rebello, because I don't have that much time (I want to have the car ready to take to LA on a trip in a few weeks, but I can't live with the car eating up this much gas. Can't afford it either). I would like to go down to the drag strip and make a bunch of passes, but I don't have the money for a ton of sets of jets. Now, this is where the idiot part comes in. Are there only one set of jets involved with fuel, or are there mains, secondaries, etc...? I'm probably one of the few to ever say that fuel injection is easier for me to understand. Now, I have a 73 240Z with what I believe to be the orginal L24 (Is there any way to check on this?) It does have the original head (N42? I don't know all the casting numbers yet. Guy from Rebello said it looked to be a late 72/73 head. Anyways, I am also running headers and a larger exhaust. Not sure about what the current jets are (Any way to check that?). What goes with installing new jets if that's the problem? Do you have to take apart the whole carb? Sorry if this seems elementary to you gurus. I'm trying to learn though. Oh, when circuits come up in reference to a carb, what does that mean? Is that the system in which the fuel travels, or other systems? Basically, the questions that may be somewhat hidden in the earlier parts of my post are: 1) Is it running rich? I'm pretty sure of it. 2) What jets should I run with L24? What if it is an L28? 3) How much does a whole new set of jets cost? 4) Will I have to buy more than a few sets? Thanks a lot, Ryan I really appreciate everyone putting up with all my crap. I know a lot of it must be simple to most you, so I understand if you get frustrated. Anyways, thanks for all the kindness so far.

I'm not totally sure about the durability of those aluminum rods. I know they are used in drag engines mainly. I also know they reason they use aluminum is because they absorb the huge shocks put on the rods, because of the gobs of power made in each cylinder. I apologize if my info is not correct, but this is what I have read in a few magazines.

Check the search function of the board. It will help. The JTR thing is a manual. Personally, I don't own one, but it is a definite buy when you are looking at doing V8 swaps. Anyways, just check the search function. There should be some info.

I don't know how much you have to worry about emissions in Texas (I do have an opinion on this one, but I don't think it is appropriate here), but the 240Z will work just about anywhere with a V8. If you want the lightness of the 240 with some of the added stiffness of the 280, get the 240 and PDK's strut braces. Awesome set of stuff.

I thought I did a search, but I forgot that was just on the Mikuni stuff. Let me take a look. Thanks for reminding me.

Anyone?

bump

Thanks

I wasn't sure where to post it so people would see it. Sorry

Is that colortune that Strictlyz.com sells any good? Just wondering, because I'm not very knowledgable yet with carbs. I have a triple Mikuni set up on my 240 and believe its all jetted properly, but could use a little tuning. It bogs a little when I open it up at low RPM. Are the carbs themselves a little big for the little 2.4L too? Anyways, just wanted to see if any of you had any experience with that color tune. Oh, and when speaking about jets and all that, I'm still learning. I guess its off to www.howstuffworks.com to see if I can learn some more. Anyway, all of you have been extremely helpfull so far, thanks. Ryan

Its actually closer to $65 a filter, than $50 a piece. I was thinking about building a box with a cone filter myself. I kinda need it now though, need the car running. I mean I have the ITG filter, but the front part fell off and its falling apart. Don't trust it to do the job it should. Does anyone else have any triple Mikuni's? What kind of air filter set up are you using?

When I bought the car, it had an ITG filter on it, but is has now fallen apart. I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get those custom assemblies that K&N makes for the Mikunis. I think I may have found a place but I don't know what size I need to get. These are the dimensions and part numbers that I've found. Outside Height Element Foot Assembly dimension part # Note Part # 4-1/2 x 7 1-3/4 E-3321 12 56-1310 4-1/2 x 7 3-1/4 E-3341 56-1350 5-1/2 x 9 1-3/4 E-3441 12 56-1330 5-1/2 x 9 3-1/4 E-3461 56-1360 I found them at this WEB SITE I found another site, but I need the specific part number. Thanks for all your help. Everyone has been extremely nice on this forum so far.

Yah, I can't wait to get my Z fixed up with a V8 so I can beat my parent's 03 Cobra. The Cobra is pretting friggin fast though. Not much on the street that could beat that.

The posting of the pics doesn't seem to be working. If you guys could check out my site really quick, and give me your opinion that would be great. The link is HERE'S A DIRECT LINK TO MY PICTURES

The posting of the pics doesn't seem to be working. If you guys could check out my site really quick, and give me your opinion that would be great. The link is HERE'S A DIRECT LINK TO MY PICTURES

Well, I finally got the head off. Rebello sounded it like it had a bent valve. The exhaust never got more than cool, sometimes colder than the ambient temp. It always smelt like it ran really rich (that may be acredited to triple Mikunis on a L24) My web site is here. Click on the more photos link and the pictures of the combustion chambers are list from the right of the head to the left. Thanks so much.

They had a thing on Horsepower TV where they propane injected a Diesel Dodge Ram. Made some damn good power with it too. Just like nitrous, but propane is cheap.

Hey, I own a Honda and a Z. Love them both. I've got a little 91 hatch. I love the Civic, because it handles. Now if I can just find the right brackets to get the new front sway bar on there. Anyways, I really don't like all those people with the Honda's that ruin the reputation. Yah, they're commuter cars, but anyone that puts the time into their car deserves a little respect in my book. I knew a guy who was a bad rep for the BMW M3 image. Too much car for him. Anyway, I'm just saying not to bash Hondas or Acuras that much. Bash the people that give them the bad rep. Anyways, cheaper to run 10s in Civic than a Mustang? Not sure about that. The only thing I could thing of would be either a B20 Frankenstein or Prelude H22 both with turbos that could push down into that range. Lots of work would have to be done to the drivetrain. The only reason it may be cheaper is if they included the cost of a '92 hatch to a newer '95 and up? Mustang. I do have to give all the Sport Compact draggers credit for doing all that work. Seeing that companies are not going to stop making FWD cars anytime soon, its good that these people are learning a lot. They are doing some amazing stuff too.

Oh, I know time is very constricting for most. I'm learning that as I go to school and try to work at the same time. Sorry, I didn't mean to sound demanding with my question, I just thought if we could manage to fit a lot of basic data into one area, it may help clear the way for some more interesting swaps from the uneducated. I think this, hands down, is the absolute best site on the web for anything car related. I learn so much, and not just about Z's. Anyways, maybe if I get some time I can start to gather some info from this site to add to that faq. Thanks for everyone's help so far.

Have any of you thought about getting together and writing a faq on sbc conversion for early Z's. I think this would be a good idea, so you all aren't constantly answering the same questions. A list of parts needed would be awesome too, then everyone could build off of it for specific build ups. Just an idea.

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm really thinking about them for the 350. Only problem is, Jesel doesn't make their valve train setup for them. I looked @ this database of setups of the web and almost always the Trickflow setups were making more power. I'm very interested in the Jesel, because it offers non-hydraulic full roller without the need to adjust backlash all the time (or so I've heard). Anyways, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it.

What does everyone think about Trick Flow heads for a 350? I know I'm asking a lot of low level questions, but I like opinions. I've almost got the car paid off, now its on to getting it ready for the engine conversion. Anyway, thanks for everyone's help so far. I really appreciate it.

What about the Skyline AWD drivetrain setup that Stony did? That seems much more feesable. I hope I'm not getting anything wrong hear, but I'm pretty sure he got the whole AWD setup in there. Someone with a better memory could maybe help me out

I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the Jesel shaft valvetrain. I find it pretty interesting and am considering the setup for a sbc (If I ever get a chance to build it). Also does anyone know if these would work with a set of Trick Flow heads. I've checked their catalouge, but they seem to only have stuff for Vortec, AFR, etc... Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Oh, and one more dumb question. Is the only difference between a 350 block and a 400 block the cylinder size. I know this seems simple for many, but seeing the search being on and off all the time I just decided to ask. Thanks a lot for any help you can provide.