dj paul

ill have to say that is beautiful work

ya im gonna go pull it out of my friends car tonight. i was just hoping... lol.

has anyone modified the NA dizzy to work with the optical sensor and chopper wheel? im having trouble trying to mount it because the shaft itself is larger on the NA i believe.

does anyone have any ideas on modifying NA 280zx dizzy for the 300ZX sensor and chopper wheel? i tried yesterday with one of my extra dizzys but it didnt work like i thought it would.

alright i got a couple of chopper wheels and a couple of optical triggers from some maximas with the same motor in it. Now i just need to get a hold of a 280ZXT dizzy. I had a spare NA one that i tried to modify but it didnt turn out as i planned.

i put it right after the fuel filter in the engine bay, it would be a little bit better before the filter. I just used 2 3/8 flared fittings from a compressor hose and teflon tape to hook it up.

cool thanks i have looked at that but i was hoping i wasnt going to need to find a turbo dizzy. i find that now i can only have it running when im cranking it and when i turn on the cold start valve it straight up dies. I found out that it ran better previously because one of the backfires blew off one of my vaccuum lines and it had a vaccuum leak. I readusted the timing from 0 to 10 where it was set at stock and it seemed to help a little so that makes me think the problem is with the wrong information to the ECU for timing. Can anyone help me out with these items? 280zx turbo dizzy and Z31 CAS chopper wheel?

i put a carter check valve on my system, its technically supposed to keep constant pressure. Part # 169-1002. keeps pressure at right above 30 psi

Im really sorry guys. I was in a hurry. It is a Z31 ECU/MAF. Your all's info still helped me out. and about the CAS, Isnt the CAS just making the firing pulse the correct length? I dont even have the ECU hooked up to the corresponding spots for the CAS to go since the Crane Cams box controls it. It essentially is supposed to eliminate any stock ignition, so does the ECU need this signal for anything else besides the ignition itself? Ahh and my bad about the firing order, i knew that doh! lol. Yes that is the sequence the spark plugs are in but not the injectors currently. Basically, im thinking that the 280ZX N/A injectors dont provide enough fuel at the pulse the ecu is trying to give it. I have 280ZX turbo injectors and 300ZX injectors lying around (all good) so I was just wondering if i should go to the trouble to put those on to fix my backfiring problem, because like i said, when i manually turn on my coldstart valve (hooked up to a 9volt on a switch) it starts to actually try and run, but when u press on the throttle it still kind of backfires, but less. What do you all think? I'll figure it out pretty soon ive just been really busy. And Today is Oaks, and the Derby is tomorrow!! Oh and about the TPS. How am i going to hook that up. I dont know what signals the N/A 280ZX one gives and it has 3 wires where as the 300ZX has 2. I was going to play around with it till it worked but i rather save some time. Thanks, Paul

Alright guys. I have almost everything done on my 300ZX MAF/ECU swap to my N/A 280ZX. My stock system went out and always had problems so i just decided to go ahead and do this. Im using a Crane Cams Optical ignition instead of the 300ZX crank angle sensor. (#1 if anyone knows that this is wrong let me know because no one has done this before) My main question though is, since i have the 300ZX computer. Should i put the 280ZX turbo injectors on? i keep getting backfire through the intake and when i manually turn my coldstart valve on it runs better. Also on the straight 6 the firing order is just 1,2,3,4,5,6 but on the 300ZX its 1,3,5,2,4,6 so i swapped the injectors around. Ill try it with the original firing order. Any help would be great though because when im done i am going to do a writeup of how to do it and if its worth it. Thanks, Paul

im working on making u a little diagram and i started to confuse myself. ill do it for you soon. trust me, only having that happen for a few times is not a big deal when compared to what mine did lol.

those santana billet cup holders are really cool but they are 100 bucks =(

ya im sorry i couldnt get to you earlier, ill show u a little diagram. I have to run into work right now, im bringing my laptop so i might be able to show u diagram tonight.

its internal. mine is kind of goofy. i have to rev up the car above 4k rpms to get it to start charging battery. but after that first 4k rpm rev its ok

i believe its either the thermotime switch, or its the cold start valve. Thats what happened to mine when cold but the problem would last for 5-10 minutes every morning under 50deg. I replaced the cold start valve and it worked right for a while. If you cant find one at a junkyard or get one from a friend. hook up a 9 volt battery to a switch, ill show you tomorrow morning how to wire it up while keeping stock cold start stuff in tact. The problem I ended up having even after i replaced cold start valve, was the valve was not getting voltage for long enough on cold mornings, and sure enough, when the voltage dropped, the car died. So i put that switch on there and you keep it switched on when u start the car for about 30 seconds and it should keep on going.

does the car start and then die a few times before it actually starts up??

Hey guys, i got into one of my mad rages at the stock system today and became superproductive lol, my recent soldering of the 300zx pigtails and analyzations of both wiring diagrams have all come together today. She fired right up after having numerous starting problems with stock system!! Anyways, Id like a little help working some kinks out. Once all these kinks are worked out i will write a sticky, just like the Z32 MAF/ECU to 280ZXT swap, but for N/A. ok, first off. I know for a fact i will figure these problems out tomorrow so if noone has a clue, dont worry, i just like to see what people know. Also, half of these problems are probobly from not having the CAS hooked up, which i have an optical ignition in place of the CAS. #1 It has no idle whatsoever- you cant let your foot off gas or it dies. #2 If you stab the gas if backfires really hard out the intake I have the injectors hooked up in a sequence, 6,5,4,3,2,1 just like they are on the stock 280ZX setup. Whereas on the 300ZX it goes 1,3,5,2,4,6 so i switched them accordingly. Did i do the right thing? Also, does anyone have any ideas on how to hook up the Crane Cams XR3000 to make it work as a CAS? like i said, ill be able to figure it out tomorrow but id like to know if anyone knows. Do you think i would be able to eliminate the crane cams box and hook the optical trigger up to the ECU? Also, id like to see what each wire for the MAF does, since i couldnt figure it out, i just ran 4 wires from engine bay to ECU and grounded one out. I also couldnt figure out how i would hook up the throttle valve switch since there is one more wire on the stock 280ZX one. I still need to run 2 wires from the ECU straight to the coil, but i think i already tied them in correctly through the stock system, ill have to check tomorrow. Tomorrow, i will post more details/pictures. Any help would be greatly apreciated ! =) Thanks, Paul

Nevermind. Screw the stock system!!! i already got it running on the 300ZX MAF/ECU. I went into one of my mad rages where i become superproductive. lol. Just have a few kinks to work out. Going to discuss it over in electrical...

This morning the car started up just fine, i let it run till it got to operating temperature and then turned it off. waited a few minutes and tried to start again, it just cranks and cranks. I re-oriented the distributor in the right way and made sure it seated and then locked it down. this did not help, i put on the other ignition module i had, nothing. Since it doesnt start when its hot im beginning to think its some sort of vacuum leak that manifests itself when hot??? im running out of ideas. I almost forgot, I set to 0 deg and took valve cover off, timing link on chain is set to 1 on sprocket which is correct. Edit: should i try another ECU? maybe i fried mine when changing ignition? should i try another AFM? i can get these from my friend for free.

alright, i got the motor set at 0 deg and the rotor is pointing the completely opposite way of #1. the only thing was, the other day it was not like this. could that mean my chain is off by a tooth? anyways, should i just unbolt dizzy and move rotor to #1 like you were saying?

looking to jumpstart my 300ZX ecu swap. i need to just get it running and leave it alone untill i get my other Z going. all i have left to do is weld up the front mounts of the rear suspension (putting S13 subframe on 240Z) and mock up the SR20DET and it will be done. Anyways, the way i set motor to 10 BDC was i would jumpstart the starter untill the rotor got around the #1 plug and the notch hit 10. This is what the manual for the Optical ignition said to do. hooked up new ignition, put optical sensor on the leading edge of the shutter and hooked up coil. started right up. when i drove it it was sluggish though. Its automatic so when u floor it it always downshifts a gear you know? but after, when u would floor it it would just keep accellerating, no gear change, and slower than normal. #1 the no downshifting could just be a coincidence and #2 i hate automatics. Any other ideas though? im going to put motor at 0 TDC tomorrow and take valve cover off and see if the marks are lined up on the cam gear. Also im going to try my other stock ignition module(first).

alright ive been thinking and how realistic is it for the timing chain to slip a tooth? when putting in the optical ignition you have to put it at stock ignition timing which is of course is 10 BDC. So i put a jumper wire on the starter since i didnt have a socket big enough to turn crank. There was a point where i tried turning it just a little by hand and it seemed to move and then did not move any more by hand. does that sound like that could have jumped a tooth? I mean, i put my hand on the balancer and just tried turning it and it moved just like 2 deg clockwise then didnt move anymore.

Alright guys i gotta new stupid problem with my 80' 280ZX. I put optical ignition in it because im eventually going to go with the 300zx MAF/ECU. I noticed that it was real sluggish at low rpms but acted normal above high rpms. Also it had a goofy starting issue, it would always start, but not like it normally does (took a few more cranks) Since i wasn't doing the 300zx MAF/ECU swap for a little while i just decided to put the stock ignition back in. It started up and i drove it around the neighborhood. Still felt a little sluggish so when i got back home i shut it off and then tried turning it back on to see if it would start, because i was just going to leave it alone since i had to go to work later. No start. I took out #1 spark plug and cranked it, its getting spark. I can also smell gas when i try and start and gets a good 30psi right before fuel rail, but it doesnt seem like it even wants to fire on any cylinders. just cranks and cranks. Im almost fed up with this thing and just wondering any ideas or simple tests to run to help me out?

lol ya, thats what it must have been. sabotage lol.

alright guys thanks for your help. While looking at which wires to use for this relay i noticed that i could wiggle the lower terminal's wire around. I tightened the bolt up which was very loose, got in the car and it cranked right up. why the hell was that thing loose??? anyways, im happy that i didnt have to wire a relay. thanks again.