dj paul

ahh ok, the only way it engages is if i have the + jumper connected to both that little tab by the 2 main lugs, and the bottom lug. Otherwise it just spins freely. Ive reconnected my fusible links because they looked questionable with no success. I have a few 30A relays. Is there any way i can wire one of these up to fix my problem?

alright, its making the starter spin but its not engaging. the key should be in the on position to make it engage when i jump the starter correct?

Alright guys, after working on my car some and fixing various things on the 80' 280zx, im about to go start my car up and "click" from under dash and from starter solenoid. I know this has been addressed before but i can't find exactly what i need to know. Ignition switch is ok, took it apart and tested to no avail. Battery terminals are new, but just in case i retightened them and made sure they were making adequate connection with a tester. I put a wire across the solenoid and a screwdriver across the starter, and the starter turns and starts the motor just like normal. i was wondering, isnt there a relay or fuse that should be bad? i couldnt really find it in my book. I guess ill look again but any insight to this would be great. Thanks in advance, Paul

hey guys i know you can get them on ebay all day but i just wanted to ask here first if anyone has or knows where a good deal is on one of these motors. I am 99% sure that im gonna put my rebuilt 280ZX turbo motor in my 280zx, and i want to put the SR20 in my fully caged 71 240Z with a 240sx rear subframe. I was wanting to keep the straight 6 originally but after driving my friends S13 i just had way too much fun with that thing and i love the power band.

Hey guys, just posting this for future people having the same problem. The problems i was having were involving the cold start system. After testing/changing many things finally figured out it was the thermotime switch. So instead of fooling with this. I wired a switched 9 volt battery to it and ran it in the cabin that turns it on and off. Starts up perfectly now. Non problem related, i removed the stock fan and cut up my dual electric maxima fan and reversed the polarity and used it as a pusher fan. I dont know if its just a coincidence, but my car feels so much faster!

alright never mind guys i feel like an idiot. its the stupid auto tranny slipping.

Alright, I wasnt able to find anything to my satisfaction through searching so here it goes. I have an 80 280ZX and i just swapped in an N42 intake manifold and headers. There were some injectors that the plastic was cracked on so i replaced them with some 280Z ones that werent cracked and read 3 ohms. 2 of them to be exact. Anyways i was having a cold start issue so i put a check valve before the fuel rail and it fixed my cold start problem. I plugged all the vaccuum lines except for the distributor advance, including the BCDD which im about to take off because when idling in park or neutral and u barely hit gas it shoots up to 3k and sits there. All my injectors read 3 ohms and there are no leaks in fuel system, i just replaced all hoses on rail with new fuel injection hose and cleaned up connectors. #1 injector is the only one that clicks loud, like really loud. Anyways, i went for a test drive and it has way more power it seems at low rpms. but as soon as i start getting after 4k it loses power and at 5k it doesnt want to go past it. is this a fuel delivery issue or do you think that i could be losing power because the header bolts need to be tighter or something? i tightened them well but im just wondering. I just wanted to ask before i go buying a bunch of replacement parts and waste money trying to figure out problem.

like they said, if you are going for cosmetics. do go with the Non EGR non webbed N42 intake manifold. Use a heater jacket/blanket or wrap after you spray em down good with high temp paint and cleaner. that should eliminate need for an ugly heat shield as well. this is what i do (i have headers) on my 280ZX.

like they said replace the battery. if its not that then it might be the ignition switch. ive heard the same problem from them too. one way to see if its the battery though is to jump it and if it starts right up then it is the battery.

and if you are going to remove the pump definately make sure to have a pair of vicegrips ready to clamp off the line from the tank because the fuel just keeps comin! (might not be an issue with less than a gallon). also first, like you were saying, test the voltage and see if its getting any. Always test the simple stuff first before you go dropping a bunch of money. put a couple gallons in the tank and turn the key off, then on a few times and see if your getting any gas up there. if not, before taking the pump out disconnect the fuel lines and from the pump and from right before your fuel filter. if gas comes out of the line at the pump (between pump and engine) but none comes out around fuel filter, then you might have a clog. Blow on the lines and see if a friend can feel air coming out. or if a friend isnt handy. pour a little gas down where the fuel filter is and tape a little water bottle on the other end by the pump. see if gas gets in it. Another thing it could be is on the inlet of the pump itself is a little screen that tends to have gunk on it. occasionally it gets clogged. be careful and you can just pull it out with a small pair of tweezers or needle nose and use air of a compressor and blow it out. before replacing the pump though (if you did all that to no avail) replace the regulator. i know i have at least 3 known working ones lying around and you could get them for cheap. but even if the regulator is bad, it would seem to me that the rail would be getting even some fuel. so check for clogs.

ahh thankyou very much.

ahh, found out the answer to my own question. Just got to cut the things off and use regular hose clamps.

do you need a special tool for this or do injectors just come like this? i cut up one of my old bad ones and couldnt really figure it out. when i redo my stuff this weekend i was wanting to replace the hoses because some of them are starting to look questionable. I couldnt find any info on this searching. I want an Oring style but i am just doing NA and have stock fuel management. anyways, i just need some help! lol. thanks in advance, paul

alright thanks guys. yes its an 80 280zx stock FI unchanged. Found a leaky injector yesterday so im just going to go ahead and put my other manifold and headers on (non webbed/egr). Just in case i cant find it, how the hell do you replace the hoses on the injectors? i cant figure it out but i didnt look at it that long. You know how that little metal crimp thing holds the hose on? do you need a special tool to take this off/put new one on? i want to go ahead and put all new hoses on here since all are original.

k thanks guys, i have cleaned all the connections thouroughly about a week ago. it seems like if i mess with that idle air screw and open it up a lot it starts up sooner. Pretty soon im switching over to the non webed non egr manifold and using the perfect injectors out of the 12 that i have. I do need to get a fuel pressure tester. Im about to order one of those rising fuel rate regulators with a gauge on it, because theyre the same price as a simple gauge tester itself. I hope its not the fuel pump because thats the only spare part i dont have an extra of. any more ideas?

hey guys. The problem i have with starting is coming back. I replaced the cold start injector and it fired right up for some time. Then, in about the past week, it acts like it is disconnected. You have to crank and pump the gas pedal a bunch of times and then it starts up. Sometimes you have to do this so many times and for so long (about 10 minutes of on and off cranking) that the battery wears itself out before it starts up which was almost the case leaving work last night (boy i was glad it started) Also, occasionally even when the car is warm, it will want to die at idle and you have to rev the motor up. It will sound/feel like its running on 5 cylinders and backfire a few times. then it runs great once you put a load on it and get it above 3k rpm. This morning, i couldnt even get it to start up even after the 10 minute crank/pump routine so i had to get a ride with the dad to class. Anyways, im just wondering if anyone has any idea of what this could be. When i get home today im going to check the resistance of all the injectors and the cold start valve. Im also going to replace the pressure regulator since i have a known working one. Any other ideas guys? this sucks really bad since this is my daily driver.

i highly suggest taking the tar out of the floors. the patch panels on the outside look ok but, did you paint the inside of those with any kind of rust preventative? On the floors, i seriously think you should redo them. Even if its a daily driver. I did this on mine and its a daily driver. Take a C02 Fire extinguisher and spray the floor for about 30 seconds, then whack away at an angle with a hammer, chunks just fly off. If you dont do this at least grind down better around where the panels are, i mean, theres still a rubber drain plug under a portion of one of the panels! take it out! theres 99% chance of it being rusty under the plug. do not fill them in with bondo or fiberglass. They all need to be filled with a mig with the exception of the dogleg portion right under/behind the rightside door, and the piece thats on the inner fenderwell leading to the engine bay. But since u would already have it, just mig them too and grind them out. Trust me, take the extra time, you'll be happy you did. Plus if you use the other methods you were wondering about, ull just hear squeaking and goofy noises that will bug the crap out of you and make people/you think your car is a POS lol.

you all have these diagrams or notes you were talking about finding? im about to start soldering and i always like looking over other people's stuff before i go and reinvent the wheel so to speak.

^87 300ZX non Turbo ^ 83 280ZX Turbo ^80' 280ZX Non Turbo

alright guys. found the wiring diagrams. If i can do this in a way that can be duplicated easy, i might make little kits for people if they send me their pigtails. (ill have to think that one out) anyways. Im just going to have to fiind out the resistance output for the maxima's 02 sensor since i already have it, or if thats too hard ill just get one from a 300zx. It turns out the diagrams for our cars are all on autozone.com in the repair information section. how nice of them =). does not look to hard at all when i looked through it. im hoping to eliminate a lot of the goofy mechanical parts that the 280ZX, especially the non-turbo, suffers from. Im having problems with my cold start valve where the car doesnt even start up unless you crank it for like 10 minutes. also, all the silly crap that makes our engines look cluttered. and the silly AFM especially. i also think the XR3000 optical ignition is a good choice for people who dont want to swap out their oil pump drive shafts with their distributor.

does anyone have a diagram for the outputs of an 87 300ZX N/A's ECU and the outputs of an 80 280ZX's ECU? im making this work using Crane Cams XR3000 Optical ignition so i dont have to switch out the distributor and using my old 02 sensor from my nissan maxima. Also im putting a resistor to mimick a correct working knock sensor. Someone please help me out in finding these wiring diagrams.

hey guys. $50 all you can carry so i picked up a lot of stuff today. The 300zx Turbo i had my eye on was crushed before i got there!! i did find a 87 300ZX N/A that i picked up the MAF and the ECU on. I have an 80 280ZX N/A and am just reading all this stuff about Z31 turbo to 280ZXT maf/ecu swaps and can find almost nothing about Z31 to 280ZX N/A swaps. Im wanting to get rid of my stupid AFM.

actually yes i do. right around the cold start injector i saw it looking wet, ran my finger over it and smelled gas. Also around the PCV valve which i just replaced. I retightened it yesterday and have not seen it around the PCV valve again yet. What should i do with the cold start injector? i dont see any cracks, and i loosened bolts, moved it around, and retightened it. Is there any quick fix? i also have pretty bad gas mileage, especially when i floor it. It almost seems to drink gasoline worse than my other one.

Hey guys, my car sputters when it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more when parked on a hill with the engine above the gas tank. Does this mean my fuel pump is weak or something? it is also really hard to start when it is below 40 deg. Spark is good and it runs great once its warmed up. When its below 40 it takes almost 10 minutes to actually start. I have to crank, then wait, then crank, then wait. This is really hard on motor and starter and id rather not do it. Its starting to get warmer so i should be able to figure it out soon if no one has any ideas. Thanks in advance, paul

Hey im just looking to tune up this car since it take forever to start when cold. I noticed around the cold start injector that its leaking a little bit. Im wondering what the stock 80 280ZX injector impedance is including the cold start injector. If the impedance is ok i might just try and seal it better somehow.