dj paul

it is tippin the scales on the awesomeness factor! but your right, i imagine its horrible for the weight lol. anyways, i love it!

i know they werent man, what i was impying was it was the beginnings of it. i also stated that the best pictures of it werent loaded up yet. im giving an update man, thats why i said beginnings. im about halfway done with the subframe. i got a piece of bar stock the width of the rear portion of the frame and im going to center that, drill it with 1/4 inch bit. then use a hole saw with a 1/4 inch pilot bit in center, weld in some thick sleeves so all the clamping force is put on the sleeve and not on the bar itself, and make a steel bushing for it. as for the front mounts, it almost lines up where the drain plug is for the rear original subframe, ive cut that out, replacing that with thick square tubing and done the same with the sleeves. after that is done and said, and i see exactly how much clearance im going to have, im going to continue the original rear subframe straight along the rear deck, and straight down that wall up to the rear deck, connecting it to the new front mounting points. im then going to connect the two sides together up front with a square bar since it has to go straight down for spacial issues. Paul edit: now heres what im talkin about (with about 5 minutes of mspaint) side view Top View edit 2: here might be a good visual stuff might be a little off but you get the idea. =)

lol thanks man i was noticing that too. i guess it just hasnt gotten enough in my way yet. notice my little coors light lights in the last picture? best christmas present ever. =). what do you all think of the mounting stuff i fabbed up for the new subframe?

Oh, and these and what would be nice would be maybe some constructive comments, i only know of one or two other cars that came from as bad as my car was. ive been working on this thing at least 3 times a week for about 9 months and i just like to hear positive things. again, did you notice how horrible this car was when i started with it? ive replaced the frame rails, replaced the floors and floor rails, replacing rocker panels, replacing rear frame (cuz it was crap with rust holes in it), and replacing all body panels and trunk area. this is basically a new car because every thing from the old one had rust eating through it and ive replaced it. the only thing that was acceptable was the spare tire well which i cut out anyways. now i know i brought this on myself by not looking for a better project car but ive had an awesome time and can say that ive learned a lot. I can also say that i built this car from the ground up entirely by myself (and mr. coors light) including the motor, when most people have to have stuff done for them. sorry if i ranted on.

well if you notice, the pictures that need to be big are big and they look as good as a normal camera. for instance these ones that i just put up, with my phone camera. 1.Cut out Tool boxes 2.Rear Strut tower bar tied into 240sx subframe rear mounting bar 3.side angle view through the rear quarters of cut tool boxes and mounting bars.

Hey guys i finally updated my pictures on my homepage. i havent updated my pics in a few months so these are a big improvement from my last ones! you can see the beginnings of the placement of the 240sx rear subframe. theres a picture that isnt wanting to load up from my phone onto there but it should be up soon, that shows it the best. tell me what you all think please!

i have tried por15 and eastwoods encapsulator. have not used rust bullet but ive heard good things. rust encapsulator is my favorite, works just like it says. i had a little spill on a coffee can and it was sitting outside my garage and i decided to leave it there to see what it did. the rest of the thing rusted and it was still as it looked when it first dried. no peeling either and its been about month and half and lately weve had every type of weather extreme. (its been crazy) been up to about 85 (not that hot but nice *** weather and its in direct sun) been down to 15. been humid as hell and dry as hell. im impressed.

dude, lemme just say i am very impressed with that car. it is a piece of work to say the least. thanks for letting us know how things are going with it and keep us updated!

i was thinking of doin the spray bar modification too from the book but it was written in a time where oil was crap. drilled cam should be sufficient with oil nowadays. i didnt check if the cam was plugged before i put the valve cover on, is anyone sure that when they rebuild a head the do this? i guess i better just take it off and make sure anyways.

search and you will find a myriad of information, for instance my post involving a CO2 fire extenguisher and a hammer. or just being cold outside and whacking the crap out of it. (but it has to be pretty cold) some people have had to heat theirs up but for me that would just make it stick worse.

would need to be replaced. no way chevy kept the exact same computer in these cars. usually when you pick up a motor you get the computer with it as well.

Hey guys, i have a turbo header that came on my L24. ive since pulled the motor out to restor the car and put in an L28. Im sure you all remember my posts earlier but for those who dont i have a F54 NA block (flattop) with Rebuilt p90 head. i love the sound of the headers and my giant exhaust made on the l24. what i was thinking, was right after the headers collect in to two pipes, weld on something similar to a "test pipe" with an exhaust flange on it for a turbo. i know this may be a cheesy idea especially because the exhaust ports are larger on a p90 than an l24's head (its early, e32?) but lets just say i got a header for an L28 and did the same thing, or made a flange closer to the exhaust ports. now the reason im asking is because i dont really have that much more money to spend on this car. i mean i can, but id rather not, im blowing every extra penny on it. well i gotta get to work, hope i made sense, thanks in advance Paul edit: sorry, where it says turbo header off l24 i just meant a header.

yes =) did you have a pair of extra hands while getting the cam on with the correct timing? i hated doing this by myself, i dont even know how i did it. i ended up having to take it off to replace a gasket i messed up and when putting it back i had my friend with me, made it a lot better.

thats a good price for that rebuild kit. thing is you more than likely only need the gaskets and the rings, but for that price i prob would just go ahead and do it. check out megasquirt for the standalone. thats what most of us run here. does the same thing and is way cheaper than the others. www.diyautotune.com sells them prebuilt and kits. personally, i think an l28 with a turbo will do better than l28et because it will have better bottem end power i have an l28 flat top with a rebuild turbo cylinder head ported and polished will help a lot. for the turbo you could just get a stock one but i would spend a little more and at least get a t3/t4. with standalone you could prob go a little more than 20 or so.

id say thats a good buy. you dont want to do what im doing. i have a lot of fun doing it, but looking back, i would have spent more money to get something nicer. its taken me about 9 months to get to the point of even thinking about the motor and im still not done with the body. my pictures need to be updated, i have waaayyy more stuff done now. engine is going to be dropped pretty soon and 240sx rear subframe is going on maybe tomorrow and next day.

lol thats funny but true. i think they look hideous comparatively to 240z's bumpers

i would just swap the bumpers, 280z bumpers are hideous. everything else is fine, if you want a 240 get a 240 but that would be the only thing i would change. like they said it would be a lot of fooling around for almost no reason.

me too

well what matters is pressure loss and efficiency but all an intercooler does is just dissapate heat. they all work the same way and there are no awesome revolutionary pattented designs on the spearco ones (that i know of) IMO you should be fine going with something like this.

indeed

id say go for it man, it looks like a good deal 12.8 cfm@90psi you can do a whole lot with. do you have 220 ? 320 is a good price for it.

hey man, sorry i for some reason was thinking you had the stronger year tranny. i have tons of part hookups through friends work and stuff but most of the time they dont have z specific parts. you can get some dsm injectors some people just give them away for next to nothing because they upgrade theirs. alf your car looks great. another thing motor mount will cost nowhere near 500 bucks. im sorry if i offended anyone that payed that for theirs but IMO that is getting rammed in the A**. lol. especially if your uncle is a machinist. ill make you a deal, your uncle makes me a twin turbo manifold (just duplicate the stock flange on the other side of the L series manifold) and ill make you motor mounts. its whatever you want to do. i think you will love either way and to tell you the truth for that kind of hp a v8 would be easier but if i were you i would stay more original because nissan owns.

you will be happy either way you go, but IMHO you should go with the turbo.much cheaper and less stress. porting and polishing should not cost 3-4k prob half that. if it is going to cost you that much, you can find performance pistons and do a custom head job with a dremel. (long time). megasquirt 350 bigger turbo 400 (around) intercooler 200 bigger injectors 300 (i think) and your tranny should be okay but you would want do do some other little things. im just shooting this crap off the top of my head so chime in where i was wrong (i know something was =) )

whats the width of the front? s14s are much wider cars arent they? i like that front setup, im sure i could get it done on my 240z shortening and such. im already doing the back swap with a clsd. =)

sitting for years with gas in the tank might lead it to be as bad as having rust in it. a lot of that gas is going to be a varnish like substance that will clog up everything.