dj paul

the picture you posted showing the holes you will find that it is really weak and can poke through it with a screwdriver. the lower pic i would just scrape it with a wire brush or use a grinder (better) with a knotted wire wheel and then use rust encapsulator. the solution to the first one would be to cut it out put new sheet metal there. when you remove the sound deadener let us see some more pics and if my assumptions are correct, this is what you shoulld do. the PO of my car just fiberglassed over what that top picture looks like and it was just a PITA cutting out and removing. Its as they say "putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound". (dr bruce bonanno) rust like that, has totally eaten away every good trait of the metal and it will just promote rust around it. its almost exactly like cancer so i would say to cut it out. like i said, that other rust spot looks to be just a little more than surface rust so grind it down and paint it with rust encapsulator. paul

hey bartman, if you want an easy way to get that crap out take a fire extinguisher with C02 in it and spray the hell out of it, and then just beat the crap out of it with a hammer. if you cant get access to an extinguisher with C02 use dry ice and let it get nice and cold on the mat, and hammer away. it will come off in nice big chunks. im glad my dad suggested this to me because i was using a hammer and chisel and spent forever on one part of the tranny tunnel and then i did this and got the entire deadening off in about 5-10 minutes. if theres not that much rust under there when you take it off, use Eastwood's "rust encapsulator" go to www.eastwood.com and go to rust prevention. Ive used both rust encapsulator and Por-15 on my car and personally rust encapsulator not only works better, its a hell of a lot easier to work with. this stuff does not come off metal at all, even with trying to scrape it with a screwdriver, Por15 will. plus it doesnt stay on your hands for a week and a half like por15 does. and it doesnt get all chunky if theres a little bit of air in your storage container. I found out this stuff from my neighbor who swears by it. He restores fire engines and trucks from the 20's and 30's. and has donated some of his work to museums so i trust what he is saying. and i can also tell from my first hand experience. thanks paul

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Legacy-Outback-AWD-NO-RESERVE-AWD-NEEDS-ENGINE-WORK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31869QQitemZ4611608339QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW someone buy this outback and try it. said it need a little engine work so just build the hell out of it and see how whacko it gets.

alright i figured it out. i guess i just got stabbed before i really had a chance to look at it lol. i got them right out last night.

looks good man, im just replacing the entire rear quarters with fiberglass panels. is using lead ok anymore? i thought you were supposed to use something else these days.

Alright guys, i searched and could not find good directions. i type this to you all with a messed up finger. i got all the bolts that hold the steering wheel and pedal bracket in place and got the brake and clutch master cylinders unbolted, but they are connected by their little pushrods. i was taking the springs off of the pedal (had no idea how much strength those little shits had), was wearing gloves and the spring impaled the crap out of my finger, i lost so much blood outta the thing and it hurt so bad i passed out for a minute and woke up on my bathroom floor. lol! im an idiot! but anyways, i think this all happened cuz i was in a hurry to get this crap out and couldnt figure it out with taking some time, so when i go back out there tonight. what the hell do i do to take this crap off?? i need the clutch and brake master cylinders off and the whole pedal assembly holder thing. please help me out because i got so pissed at my car last night and i almost beat the crap out of it. lol. sorry for the dumb question but i never have much time to work on my car so i would just like to get things done asap with out having to figure stuff out. thanks in advance paul (written in anger lol!)

really? i love those bumpers the msa III is what im getting =(

and if thats not it, check out zilvia.net. all sr20det dudes over there that can prob help you out, but yes, it does sound like a grounding problem that savage is talking about.

great looking car! something for us mid-project people to gain inspiration from!

just to be safe, as im not 100% sure either, i would just replace the oil in half the time the manufacturer recommends in the first few months.

i think that would be cool, but im not sure if you need it? like johnc was saying after all that work and if your going to have to get someone else to do it, might as well get a proper cage. if your not bent on doing this soon, i can show you what will be done on mine, should be here within the next 2-3 weeks. i first have to finish sanding the engine bay because i just got the new rails welded on! and i need to put the 240sx rear subframe on, but i will post pics on the strengthening i do, im gonna try and get my friends to run it in CAD (im only 1rst year engineering student) to see what we can come up with.

sorry for the offtopic question but what is the filter on the thing after the fuel pumps? http://race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599pj.htm and what are dogring style trannys? i have no clue about transmissions, its one thing i need to learn. do they just allow quicker shifts but with more wear due to not having the syncros? or lighten up the rotating assembly of the gears for better power to the wheels?

oh ya i can definately do it myself. but this is more a street car for right now. my next z is going to be a race car. or when i get another z this one will be the race and that one would be the street. what im wanting to do, is since i already have the autopower bar from the PO, just make an unintrusive unibody strengthener out of it. since i already have the welder, saws, notcher, tubing, etc. im just wondering if its a good idea to try and somehow attach this thing to the strut towers, even if i dont attach the autopower bar, the strut towers are defenately getting braced between them. and thanks for the comments/suggestions guys.

yes in my experience in exhausts, although harder to fit, a single pipe is usually more efficient. one of the main reasons you go for 2 pipes, is if you just simply cant cram a big enough single down there. one pipe would also be quicker because it will be hotter since it will all be together (hotter=less dense=quicker flow). hopefully my ramblings have made since. paul

ya thats what johnc was saying, anyone happen to have any pics of this though? or think about what i said about the welding it in and then attaching it with bars to strut towers and then connecting strut towers to eachother?

looks great! definately let us know more details!

looks good tony240t. and matt i have no clue how water based would be rust preventative it just says it is. but im with toplessz and the stuff tony is using. anything is better than my PO's POS "primer" job. this guy just sprayed primer all over a perfectly golden painted car. not to mention he left loads of bondo and newspaper in random places. sorry for the confusion on the water based stuff tho. now that i look at it. the alkyd enamel is mineral spirits based like toplessz was talking about so i think thats what we are looking for.

you want an r200 or r230. you can get an r230 out of a q45 and get the stub axles and get some stronger hub assemblies and you should be ok. the rest of the rear suspension is good IMO even tho im going with 240sx rear subframe.

this one says to thin it with fresh water? (in the technical data sheets) http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=91&SBL=2&ddis it looks like the closest one to what hes talking about, no need to prime and such, acrylic enamel etc... but he said mineral spirits thins it and this says water because its water based. but i bet its the same thing. it says for industrial use only so it must be pretty similar to what the guy was talking about. when i get the chance im going to go try it on my spare door should be this weekend. ill let you all know.

but do you think the glossy black in the acrylic enamel would be ok?

indeed =). just get it honed and then you can use new rings. i dont believe you need it bored over again. the walls might make the rings fail if put in without at least honing. and you would have the same problem.

well im glad mine werent that bad! i just had to whack em as hard as i could with a sledgehammer! then right after i decided on going for the s13 subframe. lol.

well i would use the glossy black, but the alkyd enamel does not say direct to metal like mopar was saying to use. otherwise i either like the silver or the 2 blacks in the acrylic enamel (which is the eqiuvilent of what he said to use) lol, catzpillar? that would be so fruity =)

i just let liquid wrench sit in there overnight and i beat it out with a sledgehammer. the impact makes it come out better. this worked on both sides and my car was rusty as S***. and i mean, really rusty. i probobly shouldnt have even bothered with it. just prop it up on some wood and beat the crap out of it. it will come out. i think. lol.