zeiss150

So I've been reading my A$$ off on A/C options and they are either really expensive or they suck. In the spirit of Hybrid Z I was wondering if anyone has tried to stick a small honda A/C system into a 240z. I'm sure some of you super geeks (no offence ment) have been thinking about this one or even working on doing it or have DONE IT. And please don't hi-jack this thread with the Honda blower mod, cause everyone knows about that one. I also know about the vintage setup. I'm looking for an A/C that I can lift out of a bone yard and with a small amount of fabrication hook it up to my 240Z... I'm listening. Matt-

Hey racer, I don't understand your last post. Are you using "starter fluid" to start the car, and once its started then it dies? or ... can you start it and it runs then it dies. Either way it could be your fule filter. There are also internal filters on the SU's that get pluged up its a good idea to pull them out. If you are having problems with enough fuel reaching the carbs you could have a bad fuel pump or the gas tank can get a bunch of rust in it and that plugs up the fuel lines and filters and stuff. SU's are pretty simple carbs the $20 kit will probably be fine, but make sure the fuel line they include is actually fuel line. The kit I got came with silicon "fuel line" bad idea. if you have any questions let us know. Matt-

I could be mistaken but I thought that the oil passages were the same on all of the heads... the differance was in the cam oiling. The older heads (like the E88) used an olier bar. The oiler bar works just fine unless you change out the cam. the later heads used an internally oild cam. So if you use the oiler bar then you would need to plug the cam, or you could put block off plates on the oil passages to the oiler bar and just take it off and use the internally oiled cam. I'm trying to remember this stuff from a long time ago so I could be way wrong. BTW... I have an F54/N42 engine and it runs 9.2:1 CR with a 2mm head gasket, no pinging on 91 oct, but no good for a turbo setup.

forged pistons for an L28 are expensive no matter where you get them. Just keep the stock compression ratio (7.4:1) and you should be able to run enough boost to get you in the 300 wheel HP range with out forged pistons. Spend the money you would have spent on the pistons on a great IC and Aftermarket FI computer (like meggasquirt or halteck). Just my two cents.

I could be wrong but I believe that the "long" mount go's on the driver side (american) and the "short" go's on the passenger side. the engine sits at a bit of an angle that's why the long and short sides. Its been a while but that's how I remember it. Good luck!

I have an N42 with flat tops and a 2mm head gasket giving me 9.2:1 CR. I have had no audible detonation. I've put it in 5th gear going 20mph and floored it and no audible detonation. I'm not saying paul isn't right I'm just laying out my experiance. I have a mild cam 460/ 270 and my timing is 35 degrees. I'm running 91 oct. but I'm trying to go turbo anyway

Happy with 300 to the wheels... Hoping for 325.... DUDE with that turbo, and that head and intake, you should be looking closer to 400 WHP (if the cam will provide). I'm just say'n ... that looks like it will be a killer set up. 70mm TB, external waist gate:eek:. The only thing I can say is spend a few hundred on refreshing the short block, with all that awesome (pricey)stuff I wouldn't want to worry about the short block not being able to handel that HP potential. Do a 20 thou over bore,arp rod bolts, new bearings and front and rear main seal and you will be rock'n the 400+ WHP monster. DUDE ... I'm just say'n.... DUDE! P.S. I think there is a Custom ground turbo cam on ebay for sale, 610 lift and 270 duration, it makes power up to 8,000 RPM. KEEP US POSTED... GREAT PICTURES TOO!

If you're not sold on a nissan engine go with an LS1 ... they have kits and HP and torque potential are there. I don't know if it would fit into your budget though... Just an idea.

paper gasket should work fine. If you want to use silicon thats fine too Just use a high temp one like RTV (or is it RVT Whatever). If you use the silicon make sure that you don't use to much, there should be none squeezed into the water passage. I think I used paper. Good luck!

HKS doesn't make them anymore and I believe that MSA bought up all the back stock (I could be wrong on this info, but that is what I was told by Sal at MSA) the Part # that MSA sells it under is 10-2458 That is for the 2mm head gasket. there price is $159.95 buck. If someone eles is making a steel head gasket I would like to know about it.

The point of the liners If I remember correctly, is to raise the Exaust Gas temp so that more of the left over fuel will burn off, makeing for lower emitions. But how much does the temp get raised and wouldn't hotter exaust spin the turbo up faster? I would love to hear from a few Z memebers that are running the P79 turbo and what results they have gotten.

Awesome guys ... that what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info!

Hey Z people I'm getting ready to do my turbo swap pretty soon (I hope) I have an HKS steel 2mm head gasket on my current engine. Would it be compleatly stupid to reuse the head gasket. Because it's steel does it compress? If it compresses then I would imagine it's only good for one use. but if it doesn't... They are $200 ... just trying to save a buck. If I can't use it agian I'll just go stock and keep my boost under controll ... yeah, thats what I'll do.

it depends on what kind of head you are gonna use the later heads (P79,P90) have a better design and are less pron to detination. If you go with the F54 block with flat top pistons and the P79 head you get a stock compression of 8.5:1, and I'm sure you would have no problems running that while running full timing. I run 9.2:1 CR on my N/A setup, but I put in 91 oct and I also have a mild cam. I would think it would be a better plan to have a little lower compression and run the total 35 degrees of advance, there is a lot of power in that last bit of timing. If you wanna bump up the CR a little use a 1mm head gasket that will get you to 8.7:1 ... as far as the max CR you can run on 87 oct ... I don't know... maybe 9? a total guess. Good luck, I hope this helped

round or square the flow rates are suposed to be close to the same, arn't they? And with the stock turbo exaust manifold you don't need to port the exaust unless you are looking for close to 400whp, right? I'm sort of wondering why there arn't more people running the P79 head if 300whp is the goal. I can see running the P90 if you are looking for 4 or 500 whp, but with that kind of HP wouldn't you be running a turbo header and external waste gate anyway. I'm really looking for someone to tell me why it wont work, any one?

so, riddle me this Batman? If the P79 head works just as good as the P90... why arn't more people using them? Z-ya is getting 255 whp with 8lbs of boost so 15lbs of boost on a p79 should get into that 300whp range (with all the other stuff, of course). Why arn't more people using the P79 head? do those liners have that bad of a reputation? Anyone else running a p79?

what do you guys think about running a p79 head with all the mods that were listed before? still sound like a easy way to get 300 whp? I only ask because I can get P79's all day every day, but p90's are much harder to come by and twice the price. So what do you think?

just go over the engine and make sure its working right. check the basics, compression (150-170 psi), spark, fuel. Then up grade your breaks. If you want a little quicker car you could get a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx, it just bolts on, BUT, you need to port your intake manifold too. Suposedly doing the TB swap will add 10 HP. If you want to go with carbs put on the SU's (round top) and use the 260z intake manifold (n36 I think) Tripples are way to much carb for a non modified engine. A header might give you 5-10 extra HP (maybe) 2.5 inch exaust (loose the cat convert). Those or just a few bolt on things that should give you a few extra HP. If you want real power TURBO is the way to go. Make sure that your engine compression is at least 150 accross all 6 cylinders... if so no need to rebuild for these mods good luck let us know what you do.

fuel pump Don't forget all that HP making smoge stuff and the cat converter:D

the 2+2 flywheel works great, it's a direct bolt on. Dont forget to take the throwout bearing "collar", you need that in order to get it to work right with the 2+2 pressure plate. Here is a helpful link that will walk you through the swap. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Good luck

Hey Jess, I have an N42 N/A set up right now. I will be building a turbo set up and I will be biteing the bullet and getting a P90 head. Everything I've read on this site promotes useing the P90. The N42 head will work but you have to have a low static compression (7.4:1 -8:1 ) If your static compression is 8:1 or higher detonation is a real problem because of the chamber designe. With the P90 you can run 8.5:1 without a detenation problem (providing you have the correct AFR and not to much boost and all that other important stuff) the higher CR makes for a "funner" car off boost. Im not saying that an n42 turbo head can't be done, ... clearly it can, and isn't a bad idea, but, I spent time and money on a N/A build when I should have just spent more time and more money on the turbo build. My point is, spend the money, do it right, do it once, and enjoy the WHP! P.S. and this is an important one, If your gonna go with the N42 head you need to get an aftermarket ECU, Megasquirt or something like that. this is all just my 2 cents ... feel free to disreguard all of it

this should answer all of your questions about a turbo swap. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104196&highlight=n%2Fa+turbo the quick answer to your question is that yes you can turn your N/A L28e into a turbo motor. you'll find that there are about 50 different ways to do it. Your N/A block is the same as a turbo block, the pistons are different and the head is differnt (with a differnent cam) there is also different injectors, distributor, exaust manifold, and a bunch of other little parts that I don't want to get into. if you are going to build a turbo engine do lots of research before you start, because you only want to do it once. good luck and let us know if you have any questions.

Put the timing gear on faceing the right way (its the worm gear thats on the crank shaft) there is a beveled edge on the inside of the diamiter. That beveld edge either goes in or out I don't remember, just put it the right way. Use the correct torque order on the head, and get the timing right. good luck!

I believe that the side draft SUs are far better than the down draft webbers. The SU's can deliver enough fuel for a 2.8 or even 3.1 liter with the correct needle and nozzle combination. The SU's are simple to ballance and tune, and they stay that way! I have SUs on my L28 and it has lots of power and It never leans out at high RPM. The SU's are great carbs, don't underestemate them.

there wont be much of a differance with an L28 turbo and an L26 turbo the short blocks are the same the only differance is that the L28 is stroked, or is it bored? anyway, you will be using L28 turbo parts anyway. You will want to swap your head for the P90 turbo head and use a FI injection manifold, you will have to use the turbo exaust manifold along with a t3 turbo (or upgrade to a t3/04 hybrid turbo) If you use the P90 head on your L26 with an HKS 1mm steel head gasket (or a felpro 1mm) your compression ratio will be 7.4:1 which was pretty much stock for the turbo L28 motor. Now, you wont have the displacement that an L28 has so your WHP wont be able to live up to the potential of an L28 but it should be able to get you to 200 WHP without to much trouble. You will also need a Fule Injection computer there are many to choose from, bigger injectors will give more HP, as will a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx, a fuel pump, wide band O2 sensor and A bunch of other $hit that I'm forgetting, but any turbo modification info you get on this site will work with your swap even if it is suposed to be for an L28. I think? Good luck, and keep us posted!