zeiss150

How about i just answer the damn question. I get so sick of seeing people putting SEARCH, SEARCH, SEARCH. If you don't want to answer the question ... DON'T! Hartspank was probably just looking for some interaction with other Z car people... there... I feel better. In order to use the 2+2 clutch you need the 2+2 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, and throw out bearing COLLAR. The 2+2 clutch combo has 700+lbs of pressure and the regular is 500+lbs. Its a great easy upgrade if you are putting down some pretty good HP (250 and up). Not only is the pressure plate a few hundred pounds heaver but the flywheel and clutch have a larger surface area. You have to use the entire clutch setup you cant just upgrade the pressure plate or just the clutch, and you cant forget the throw out bearing collar becuause if you use the non 2+2 then the clutch wont engage all the way (or is it that it wont disengage all the way.... whatever). Sorry for the snobish attitudes around here... but the most of the people on this site are really helpful.

maybe he ment 26 mpg ... the 3 is right next to the 2 on the key board! and if Silent was getting 36 mpg on his SU's ... DUDE LET ME KNOW HOW!!!!! cause I get about 20 on my L28.

If I remember right there is one on the back of the block under the flywheel. Its been years since I rebuilt my engine though. good luck!

first things first ... SPARK.... FUEL.... Compression If any one of those are missing then no vroooooom Start with spark thats the easiest just have someone turn over the car with one of the plugs out of the head and about an inch from the block and see if there is a spark. Then Fuel take off your fule line and see if it squirts fule when you turn over the car. You can also see if fuel is getting to the cylinders if when you pull the spark plug it is wet and smells like gas. Then Compression ... I highly doubt that this is the problem but you never know. If all of those are working right ... you should get vroooooom .... good luck

I have the engine that you guys are talking about. I built a N/A L28 with carbs. I use it as an everyday driver and its never let me down 3 years and counting. here is my setup... L28 flat top pistons with 20 thou overbore N42 head with schnider cam 460 lift 270 duration with performance springs 2mm hks head gasket SU carbs with SM needles MSA header 6-2-1 2.5 inch exaust 82 N/A electric E-80 module dizzy (rebuilt) and coil ZX 60 amp Altinator ballanced rotating mass I have never had it dyno'ed but it's a quick fun car to drive. I would guess that it has somewhere around 170-180 WHP but I've read other guys with the same setup that dyno at 160. It has 9.2:1 CR and I run it with 15 degrees of advance. I can tell you that with all the rain in cali the past few months I've gotten really good at controlling the throttel responce just a little to much and the tires spine. its a jack rabbit of a car. With all of that said I would probably build it a little different if I was doing it again. I think I would go with a P90 head (or maybe a P79 N/A cam and it suposedly flows just as good, easy to find too) and a 1mm head gasket and a 60 thousands overbore that would give you a CR of 9:1, very pump gas friendly and pretty powerfull N/A engine with no chance of detonation. If you wanted to go FI with MS and a 60 or even 70mm throttle body that would probably be really fun too. The problem with any of the engines you build you will always think ... what if ?..... I think Im gonna keep my N/A Z and build a different turbo Z. Then I can go natural or turbo when ever the mood hits me. One more thing about the SU's vs. Makunis or webbers ... If you don't know anything about carbs (like me) the SU's are totally the way to go. Ztherapy has DVD's about how to strip, rebuild, and tune them. And they tune easy and they stay in tune! Well there's my 2 cents ... enjoy!

Your tranny seem like a good place to look ... On my Z (5 speed manual tranny) in 5th gear at 3500 RPM I'd be at 80mph (I don't know the KPH) If your driving around in 2nd gear that would drop your Kpg. Good luck!

Ok Clifton, so the stock t3 is good for about 270rwhp. which would translate to 15psi on a stock T3 with a P90 head on stock short block(7.4:1 CR)? does that change with better mods... i.e. 420cc injectors, 60mm TB, 3in down tube and exaust, megasquirt, flat top pistons CR 8.6:1. Do those mods get you any more power out of the T3 or are you just hitting a wall with the old T3? By the way, Thanks for all your help, I hope this isn't boring for you. P.S. what kind of HP does that sweeeeeeeet Z in your signature put down. Thanks again!

so its better to build a slightly higher CR engine so you don't have to use as much boost to get hight HP. As long as you can controll detonation then a higher CR build is better .... right? With an L28 with a CR of 8.6:1 with a stock P90 head and stock T3(and good IC) could 10 or 12lbs of boost get the engine in the 300 + RWHP range (also stand alone engine managment). or is that pushing the T3 and engine to far?

wow... if only I knew how to read those graphs.... CRAPPY PUBLIC EDUCATION!

So whats the most you can run on a stock T3 without "waisting boost" due to low efficency. 10lbs , 12lbs or is it just the stock 7?

Hey Zforce, I live in Covina, its off the 210 and 57. I would love to give you guys a hand. I don't have a lot of time but I'll do what I can. Let me know some details. Matt- So just to be clear 15lbs of boost is 15lbs of boost whether from a t3 or t4. The only differance is in the heat of the charge. so if thats the case .... then really all you have to worry about is detonation? right?

Can you replace the 8mm bolts with 9mm bolts on 240 rods or is there something different about the rods themselfs? also what kind of displacement does the l28 crank and 240 rods with the AZC pistons give you... 2.9 liter 3.0? I have 72 240 rods are thoes 8 or 9 mm?

I've read Corky's book and I've read for days and days and days but I'm wondering why you cant just get 15lbs of boost out of the stock t3. I know that the smaller turbo creates more heat and more heat is a bit of a detonation problem. So is it better to use a t3/t4 that will make 15lbs of boost with less heat. But if Heat is the only problem then shouldn't the IC take care of that? OR is there only so much that a good IC can do? so the big question is... isn't 15lbs of boost from a t3 the same a 15 pounds of boost from a t4 (if cooling the charge to the same temp is achieved?) So tell me Im dumb and why! Any of you turbo guys live in southern California?

well .... I don't know $hit about $hit, but... in Corky bells book he say's there no such thing as a turbo with no lag. If you want a turbo with no lag ... build an LS2 :burnout:just my dumb 2 cents. BTW ... I'm building a turbo L28 ... great info!

Well, I don't even know what a patrol Z is but if it has an F54 block and an N42 head and flat top pistons it'll have a CR of 9.82:1 wich is a pretty good CR for a NA Z. If it has dished pistons then the CR is 8.29:1 which would be almost perfect for turbo but crappy for N/A. If you're going the N/A way put a set of 240z SU's on there and you'll have what I have, a pretty fast N/A Z. Keep in mind I have no idea what A patrol Z is ... so all of the above info may be bull $hit. good luck!

I think there is a post on here about how to modify your P90a head from a hydraulic lifter to solid lifters. I think its as easy as tapping in some threads and screwing in the solid lifters. (you would have to check the valve train geometry i.e. changine the valve lash pads so the wipe pattern is good). You would probably have to have the cam and rockers pollished or reground too. Or just find a P90 head . I need to get one of those myself. anyone got one lying around for .... 50 bucks:mrgreen:. Good luck. P.S. I understand that for the kind of HP you are hoping for hydraulic lifters wouldn't work well anyway.

I hate computers:evil:... I wrote this bitch'n post that discribed how to build an L28 turbo motor with cost and horse power and all kinds of good info, then I tried to add a link and I lost it all. so here is the short version. Flat tops are boat anchors cause of E.P.A. smog regulations, more hoses and jets and make the carb work like crap. Z therapy (the SU carb rebuilder wont even take them as cores) Yes you can build a reliable 300+ HP every day driver that you can drive to vegas and back 5 days a week for about $2000. Check out this link to get you going in the right direction. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 make sure you do your homework ... you only wanna build your motor once! Good luck and let us know what you do.

Yeah what he said! Make sure you have the good SU's "round tops" If your damper housings are flat top then you have the boat anchors. In the 240's as far as I know they only came with round tops and those are GREAT, as far as carbs for L engines go. You never know with Nissan they mixed all kinds of stuff around at the end of a year model i.e. hatch glass with vertical vs. horizontal heater lines. As far as how to refresh your L24 ... well it depends on how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. AK-Z was right if you wanna great, easy, cheep, temporary engine, get an L28 short block from a junk yard and while you have the head off (if you take it off to put the e-88 head on the L28 short block) just replace the valve stem seals and poof. You should have a great running engine for a few hundred bucks. Like I said ... depends on how far you wanna go with the temp engine. Or... scrap the RB build and get an N42 short block with a maxima diesel crank, use your L24 coneting rods, KA24 pistons, P90 head, 2mm HKS head gasket, non-egr L28 intake manifold, 420cc supra injectors and custom fuel rail, megga squirt engine managment, T3/T04 hybrid turbo, bitch'n exaust, and a few other things and BOOM! 350 rear wheel horse power... I know the RB's make more power but... Its up to you!

im in southern Californina, Covina. I live in a dumpy part of town... oh well. I've been looking for a Z buddy in my area... no such luck... I hear its beautiful in OR. Thanks for all of your Z help over the years. I've been bugging you for a while and you've always been helpful. Thanks Sincerely, Matt- P.S. sorry for hi-jacking the thread

well said Paul! Were do you live Paul?

According to MSA they have them... part # 12-3074 $57.90... enjoy! http://www.zcarparts.com

Hey is the 240 2 row pully any good? I thought it was a solid one piece pully. I had mine balanced with my entire rotating mass when I built my L28, but now you guys have me all worried about my pully blowing up on high revs. how about the euro pully (one row) from MSA $209 US, does it suck? Has anyone ever just welded the two part together and then had it ballanced or is that a retarded idea? I don't ever rev over 6.5k cause my motor doesn't make power that high anyway. so is my 240 pully ok?

Did you need a "dashpot" (the diaphram on the side of the dizzy)or the vacum advance plate inside the dizzy? Cause if you need the dashpot I think you can get one of those from nissan or napa. or you can grab on off any nissan dizzy. If its the advance plate (with the plastic ball bearing cage) then you have to rebuild that... I did mine. It takes a little "MacGivering" but so far my rebuild is working great. I think there is a post on here about how to rebuild a ZX dizzy and it has pictures too. finding a good dizzy with a working vac advance is almost imposible, the nissan engineers didn't think to hard about working dizzy parts 25 years after they were built. I hope this helps

If I were you I would check the valve train and see if there is any rust on the cam or the rockers that would be a bad sign. also check the oil to see if it is a light brown sludge color. If either of those are the case then just know that there was water in your engine. Usually that happens when someone takes the valve cover or oil cap off and then it rains. If there is water in it you can still use it but you will just need to rebuild more and spend more money on cleaning everything up. I would also make sure it's a P90 head ... NOT A P90a! the P90a has hydralic lifters and they don't make parts for those any more (since yours is an 81 it should be a P90). If you get a P90a head you can still use it but you should probably convert it over to a solid lifter style (there is a post on how to do that on this site) Once again you can use it ... its just more money. is it from an Auto trans? if so you will need a Flywheel and a pilot bushing which you can take from any Z (but if you can get a 2+2 flywheel, there is a resent post about that in this forum) Make sure that it has a crank angel sensor (CAS) IN THE DISTRIBUTOR! the other option is a CAS on the crank somewhere, you don't want that one. If it doesn't have the CAS in the dizzy then you can buy one on ebay for about $70. (you can use a non turbo zx dizzy, but you need to modify it, there is a post for that also). Just to be clear you would wanna make sure that the oil pump is there... Its not realy "in the engine" its bolted to the bottom,front, passenger side. if its not there a new one is about $90. if its not there MAKE SURE THE DIZZY SHAFT IS! those are harder to come by used. If any of this stuff is missing or messed up then figure out how much it would cost to get a new one or fix it and take that off the junker price. Haggel buddy, Haggel! make sure it has the turbo:bonk: Good luck! P.S. If you Just get the P90 head and a few other esential turbo parts then you can just change your N/A L28 into a turbo motor without to much expence. Six of one half a dozen of another.

Hey cobraz, If you use the 2+2/turbo flywheel you need to get the matching clutch. the coupe pressure plate wont work on the 2+2 flywheel because the dowel holes are different. The coupe pressure plate has a pressure of 550lbs. the 2+2 has a pressure of 780lbs. The Clutch plate is larger on the 2+2 more "meat" for the 240mm flywheel to grab onto. Also if you use the 2+2 flywheel you need to get the correct throwout bearing "collar". If you have the wrong size collar the clutch wont engage. I think the coupe collar is longer, or vice versa:bonk: good luck