zguy36

I don't know what amperage I was running on the welder. I am not an experienced welder and just turned up the heat enough to get it to give good penetration in the welds. The warping was due to the fact that not all of the pipes fit exactly tight with each other and I had to fill gaps, very bad for warping.

Do you think this will be adequate bracing? I am still very skeptical of needing bracing for this manifold. The distance from the turbo to the head is very short making a very small moment on the welds. All of the welds penetrated very deeply into the material (you can see how wide the welds are). I am following a material example of my buddy who built manifold for his rx-7. His turbo sits twice the distance away from the engine as mine and only has two runners. The turbo hanging off of this is a 60-1 with a P trim compressor, just a tad smaller than the GT40 dimensions. He has been running it for over a year with no problems. Oh, and should I add that his EGTs are outrageous. At the end of the quarter mile, the egt's are 1750F, and just crusing on the interstate they are 1500F. In other words, there is very little time when the manifold isn't glowing! The idea with the ceramic coating is to reduce underhood heat and hopefully reduce spool time. I want to go with a large turbo, but don't want to wait forever and a day for it to spool up. This is why I am going with the twin scroll setup and will be blocking off half of the turbo during spoolup.

2.7mm isn't thick? This is nearly twice as thick at most exhaust material. This thing is pretty beefy and won't need any bracing. When I welded it, the tubes warped away from the ports pretty badly. I had to heat the tubing with a torch to get them to move back.... and I still had to beat te piss out of it with a hammer to even get it to move. I am going to ceramic coat it with the stuff that www.techlinecoatings.com sells. I have used some of their products before and seem to be pretty pleased with them. Paint wouldn't even last till I got to the track As for building one of these again, I don't know if anyone has enough money for that, it has been a real pain in the ***.

I haven't yet decided which turbo I am going with, but I am leaning towards a GT40, maybe one that arizonaZ is selling. No additional bracing should be required. The tubing is sch10 weld els, which means a wall thickness of .109" That many tubes all welded to 1/2" thick flanges makes for one beefy piece of tube. Since it is all so thick, the weight savings weren't huge, but I am guessing 25% lighter.

I would say megasquirt all the way! Maybe I am just biased because I just installed one, but I think they are great. They are comparable to many of the $1200 controllers for a much cheaper price of $250. If you don't want to do any learning though, I wouldn't recommend it. If you don't mind wading in and giving it a shot, you'll love the fact it works well for a cheap price, and they are always coming out with new functions that it can perform. -jeremy-

That sounds like a lot of taper wear for a japanese block. That is something that can be expected from an older detroit iron, but not so much with the foreign castings. It has been a few years since I rebuilt my turbo motor, but it had 100k on it and whoever I bought the car from wasn't running an air filter. The wear wasnt' bad enough to need boring, just a quick honing. You aren't wasting your time measuring your block, since it takes a grand total of half an hour and will tell you exactly where you are at and what you need to do as far as machining. -jeremy-

Well, it's all done. This ended up being a much more compact design that I had originally intended, but it will be nice to have a near stock location of the turbo. Forgive the welds, they are ugly but damn strong. This is was my first time tig welding.

I have a p90a cam and followers, from an '83 if you are interested

Well, after another fifteen hours in the shop.... I should be close to finishing it this week, and for sure by the end of next week. You can see how badly runners #1 and #6 warped. This all happened when I welded the collector together. I had to cut them loose and weld them back in at the correct angles. All that is left is to weld the rest of the flanges on and then figure out some way to surface them. Oh, at the finish cleaning out the inside with a die grinder, oh boy!

I am making a stainless turbo header for my Z. The pic is a couple days old and I have made more progress since this, but it will give you an idea of what it is going to look like. I'll post more pics as soon as I get my camera near my computer. -jeremy

You shouldn't use the stock pistons if you are bored 40 over.

I ordered the ells from www.mcmaster.com They were about five bucks each.... and I ordered 3" of the straight. It is all 1 1/2" pipe, which is actually bigger than that, but who knows why they call it that. I had the manifold to head flanges cut on a water jet, and the turbo to manifold flange I cut on a mill. -jeremy-

With a 60-1 turbo, I should still have at least 4" to the inner fender. My car is actually in storage for the winter now, so I have to hope that all my measurements were taken well! I drew the manifold in a 3D modeling program prior to building just to check fitment issues. I didn't take into account putting in the bolts though.... so now I have to go with studs. not a big deal really. -jeremy-

Now that I am making decent progress on my stainless T4 flange turbo manifold, I thought I would post some picks for all to see. I am using shedule 10 stainless weld ells, which are a bi-otch to work with! All flanges are 1/2" and the turbo flange is going to have an actuated flap for a twin scroll turbo (I forgot who else on here had this).

You say it is running rich.... so lean it out some. Too much fuel isn't good everywhere. Give us some numbers so we can see what you are looking at. -jeremy-

Just a thought, but I am using the stock cylinder head temp sensor instead of a coolant sensor. The only problem with this is that these temps get much higher than the water temps and make the warmup enrichment a little more difficult to tune. -jeremy-

Put your IAT sensor wherever you want to put it. The difference of a couple of inches between just before the throttle body and the cold start hole will not make any difference in performance. Keep in mind that you are going to be tuning your engine, so your tune will compensate for the slight difference in temperature readings. I put mine in the intercooler pipe, just before my water injection. I do know that if you run water injection before the sensor, the readings are not accurate at all. -jeremy-

I am using the spec stage II and have been happy with it. It takes the abuse that I dish it when drag racing but is still really mild for the street. You can't tell any difference between it and the stock clutch for engagement or pedal feel.

What would be the point of swapping injectors to the same size injectors?