zguy36

The pressure plate should not be resurfaced. It isn't a matter of whether or not it can be done, but a matter of what your end result would be. Any amount that you take off of the pressure plate surface removes spring force applied by the pressure place. The force applied by the pressure plate is a spring force, so if you have to compress the spring less, you get less force.

two 3/8" bolts are more than strong enough. They shouldn't be experiencing any shearing forces, only tensile forces. The proof load for a grade 5 bolt is 6500lbs.... I doubt you are seeing those forces. See this website for bolt strengths. http://www.precisionscrewandbolt.com/strength.htm

So sad.... up here we see 85kpa

it is a coil, crank trigger, and ignition module..... makes your engine go varoom!

how bout a pic?

This post is of interest to me because my car does not have one and I didn't think the engine had been modified before I got to messing with it.... '83 turbo... So where exactly is this line that bypasses the thermostat and where does it draw it's fluid from. From how tonyd is talking, it seems like it is drawing fluid from a hot spot in the cylinder head to help make it cooler? Seems like the hottest spot on the cylinder head should be in the middle where the two exhaust ports are together.

All bolts stretch when they are tightened. The difference is that less force is lost in a stud than a bolt. The steel can only handle to much force transmitted through it, so if some of that force is lost due to friction (threads in the block compared to threads on the nut), then that translates to less clamping force. This is the advantage of studs over bolts. There is less threads to lose force in comparing the nut to threads in the block. Also, with studs, the torque is not transfered to the stud when it is tightened and the stud only stretches. With a bolt, the bolt is twisted along with stretched translating again to less clamping force transmitted to your parts. A bolt or stud is only not reusable when it has been torqued many times, or it is permanently stretched. Some bolts are designed to yield when tightened to get a more consistent clamping force. This is not the case with the datsun bolts or studs. They are usually the type that say, torque to XX then twist XX degrees past.

I was drag racing the suby..... and at that time, I was running a 13.8 second quarter..... yeah, I was in the gas just a bit! The sad part is I was going to race that guy next, so he was sitting at least 30yards back from where we took off. So that means he had to react to us leaving, since we just had hand signals from the other car (hence my slow reaction). That car is damn fast!

This has been done many times before. Do a search on www.turboford.org forum. This seems to be a popular thing to do on that forum. The meter can in fact measure the air flow because it will indeed have a pressure drop across the flap to make it move. I can post equations and the theory behind this if you would like, but it would be a mute point. You might even be able to find a description on turboford. Depending on how much the ECU corrects for air temp, you will be that much off since the temperatures after the turbo are that much hotter. The best way to deal with the restriction of the AFM is to scrap it and go standalone.

Be careful racing Trans Am's! I don't know how it is where you are from, but in Idaho, these are the redneck cars of choice. I raced one a couple summers ago and got the guy really pissed off... to the point where he got out of his car at a stop sign and I got to experience fullthrottle/boost in reverse! It turned into a chase through town that ended up with me to the nearest police station. I'm a little guy, and the trans am was filled with some large rednecks! Boy was it fun though to walk all over him! Keep up the good work!

Here are some more videos of last summers fun. I don't really know where else to post these, since there isn't really a video section. Pardon my poor driving skills.... it is hard to launch on hard 205's... Anyway, enough blabbing. http://media.putfile.com/DamnFastCamaro http://media.putfile.com/Suby-Spank

Comparing compression ratios, you need to look at the causes of detonation. Detonation happens when the cylinder pressure are too high. So lets say that with your combustoin chamber, you can have X amount of pressure in the cylinder before detonation. With lower compression, you can have a larger mass of air (since it isn't compressed as much) than you can have with a higher compression. The tradeoff is that higher compression is more efficient, making better use of the air and fuel that is in the chamber. Finding the sweet spot of optimizing max mass to max efficiency is what you are looking for. In my opinion, you aren't making drastic enough changes to your compression ratio to have any negative effect on maximum power. If you want better off boost response, go with the higher of the two ratios.

Not to mention sucking all the power from your alternator..... and the price of buying a new one every week since it is running full output constantly! Anyone know Autozone's limit for free replacement?

These motors are HEAVY!!

You don't get energy for free. Splitting water molecules into hyrdogen and oxygen atoms takes energy (60 amps draw for that module). This process takes the molecule from a low energy state (oxygen and hydrogen like to make water) to a high energy state. At the very best, when the hyrdogen and oxygen are burned, it will release the exact amount of energy that was required to split the molecule. Add efficiency into that and you are screwed.

Nope, that road isn't in Idaho. It is in Logan, UT. I prefer em a little twistier too, to keep the speeds down. The speed limit on that road is 50mph.... but every car that was passed was going at least 60... Ahh... only a few more weeks for the snow to clear!

So as spring is coming, I am remebering how much snow sucks for driving the Z. I was just tooling around with some of my videos and thought I'd share. Turn up the volume and enjoy! http://media.putfile.com/canyon34

I paid 85 for the flanges, but the guy who made them for me was was screwed pretty badly by the deal. He thought he could do it on his plasma cutter, but he ended up having to pay someone else to water jet them and he still charged me the same price. I would guess that he could produce them 100-120 range and still make a profit though. If people are interested, I could give him a call and double check for a price.

Sorry to those who already downloaded those flange dimensions. I had an old file on the computer I was using, which contains a mistake in the center flange. I reposted the new 'revised' files which are 100% correct. I have used this file for cnc water jet cutting of flanges and was really happy with the result. Once again, sorry for posting bad info!

Just trying to look out for you. It doesn't matter how you weld to the turbine housing anyway, your weld job will last much longer than the turbo no matter how you do it. Otherwise, it seems as your question has been sufficiently answered. If you want a more definate answer, call a company that has "direct experience" with welding cast iron and you can get the answer you seek. My personal experience welding cast iron was using high nickel rod, and I welded the combustion chamber of a head that in attempts to modify the combustion chamber, a water jacket was ground into. The head welded up fine and was run in the car for two years until it was wrecked. It didn't leak combustion pressure or water. For your application, the welds will be annealed the first time the exhaust gets hot (if your customer runs it hard) and the stresses in the welds should be relieved.

johnc, If you don't want to pass around rumors, at least tell your customer to take a look at any forum, for any car, anywhere on the net, and he can find the same answer for himself. There is a reason that these turbo are so cheap, and that is because they are junk. You are putting yourself up for a bad rap if you build these parts for him and strap on a pos turbo. These aren't actual garret parts, but knock off junk that isn't built properly. The turbos may look nice, but they aren't internally balanced to current industry standards and the turbo WILL be worn out/ruined in a fraction of the time a real turbo will last.

What format would you like? I have this drawn up in solid edge and am not sure which files are compatible between the two. I am guessing that an IGES file would be the most compatible. I'll post some files in the downloads section, both of a header design and of the flange (very accurate dimensions)

I have a quick question about your turbo in general. Isn't xs-power the cheapo turbos sold on ebay that fall apart? Beware, you get what you pay for!

back to the real question, is anyone interested in accuratly measuring the airflow through their engine?

I also used fuel rail from ross machine and have had good luck with it. I'll post some pics when I get home.