zguy36

pull off the connecting tube that goes between the air flow meter and the turbo. Look inside the turbo and feel the shaft for play, or in your case look for metal chunks. If pieces of your turbo are coming apart, then that is going to enter your engine and do more damage. A turbo is a lot cheaper than a whole engine.

welcome to fab work.... if you are going to put something in a car that it didn't come with, then you are going to have to cut, bend, and fab the @#$^ out of everything in there. Buy some bends, buy a good sawzal and a bunch of tubing and go to town. There is no easy fix. Sorry!

Don't really know what numbers I am looking for, just more than the last setup. The turbo next to it is a T3/T4 hybrid, V trim compressor wheel

I have finally given up driving the z for long enough to swap in the new turbo. I've taken a few pics of the new manifold and turbo on the car. I found out how lucky I am that this whole thing fits together. When I built this manifold, I did it off of the car, with only pictures to look at. Sure glad that I took good measurements before I went to work! The turbo has been lowered quite a bit from stock position and barely clears the frame rail, block, and steering shaft. A new motor mount is in order as well, since I had to do quite a bit of cutting to allow an air inlet into the turbo.

I have my water injection spraying two feet AFTER my bov and I still get water coming out of the bov. I don't know how the water reverts back upstream, but it sure does. A little water underhood doesn't hurt, but fuel might start a fire.

Copper gaskets are solid. Why did you switch from the steel to the copper? I ran a copper head gasket for a few years and the thing used water from the get go. The first ten minutes of running, I had water pouring out between the head and block (used copper coat gasket spray). I went to the local machine shop and they recommended Hylomar spray. This worked better, but still ended up using some water. The head gasket later blew, so I switched to steel.

you might have your boost controller installed backwards

The loss of VE from the exhaust restriction is not due to pumping loss, but loss from leftover exhaust gasses remaining in the combustion chamber. If there 30psi in the exhaust manifold, then you get respectivly more exhaust gas in the combustion chamber. Decrease the leftover gas, you can bring more gas into the cylinder for the next charge. Exhaust gas left in the chamber is bad for making power, hence the reason small restrictive turbos don't make huge numbers. Let the exhaust breathe more with a bigger turbo, horsepower numbers increase along with VE.

I believe that I got into a rant a while back about the definition of VE. I agree that the turbocharger should be left out of the equation and that the system boundaries should include inlet pressure as the pressure AFTER the turbo. This then means that VE doesn't increase with a turbo. The reason that I am posting is to point out the fact that the VE does in fact DECREASE with the installation of the turbo. We cannot completely remove the turbo from the equation because it is such a huge restriction on the exhaust. This restriction makes it much harder for the engine to breathe. Hence the reason two engines make different power at the same boost left with different sized turbos. A supercharger does not affect the VE value over NA since it is belt driven and does not impose a restriction on the flow through the engine. This can be a bit confusing though, since a small supercharger doesn't flow enough air for high rpm. This does NOT decrease VE though, since the equation is only taking the ratio of air drawn in vs. what could be drawn in at the given pressures.

Think of it as free water injection and turn up the boost.

I'm with clifton thinking that you aren't going to get jack difference with tip in throttle response by going with the recirc valve instead of the plain old blow off valve. The valve isn't going to flow enough air to be able to increase the pressure on the inlet side of the turbo. Keep in mind that you have a giant air inlet on the intake side of the turbo, AKA air filter. Any attempt to increase inlet pressure of the compressor will just be lost out through the air filter. A good filter can flow over 800cfm of air with negligible pressure drop. Try dumping enough air through your bypass valve to build pressure against an air filter to increase the inlet pressure of your turbo? Not going to happen. Thats like trying to use one of those computer duster air cans to pressurize your living room. Now, since the recirculated air has already been under your hood and gained heat (200degrees is an overexageration), you are at a loss because you inlet air to the turbo is warmer than ambient.

Arizona Z still has a couple GT40's!!

Yup, it did turn out to be a 30psi wastegate. With a quick bit of cutting and replacing of the diaphram spring, I have to back down to a managable 12psi wastegate. With a bit or rod tensioning, I even got the twin scroll flap to open just before the wastegate start to open. Should be great for building boost a bit quicker with a foolproof actuation.

Good point, I didn't even think that being off a diesel that it would be much more than the usual 7-8 psi setting. Thanks for the heads up!

Yes, this is a gt4082. The compressor really isn't that much bigger than the compressor on my t3/t4 hybrid with a v trim wheel. The exhaust side however is an order of magnitude bigger than the stock t3 exhaust wheel! I am going to try running the internal gate (probably futile) that came on this turbo. The weld els are from www.mcmaster.com I had the flanges on the manifold water jet cut out of 1/2" stainless, but it ended up being more like 3/8" by the time they were milled flat again. It was all tig welded together and weighs nearly what a stock cast manifold weights. Sch20 pipe is actually pretty dang thick. I am not sure when this thing is going to spool at, but I bet it will be later than sooner! To combat spool issues, I built a flap that closes off half of the housing (divided housing) until full boost comes in. This halves the AR ratio of the turbo and should help spool. The increased backpressure might be an issue though. For only $420 shipped to my door, I figured I can't go wrong with a high hp experiment

That is the manifold I built last winter..... sch20 stainless weld els. Look in my gallery for more pics of the manifold.

This is the Arizona Z car gt40 turbo. Two left when I bought this one....

Simply put, no! You run a lot more curent for driving injectors than a 26 gauge wire can handle. That is why the other cable is so expensive, since it has to be hand made with the larger wire. A computer application wire just wont hack it.

The liners can't increase EGT's. Unless they are on fire! All that I can think the liners would to would be to increase the port wall temperature in attempts to burn the last bit of unburnt fuel. Not gonna raise your overall temp much with that though.

I originally was going for lean best torque and had it tuned to 13:1 I tried going a bit richer and it kept feeling better. I would like to keep it at 12:1, but it seemed to miss less at high rpm with the richer 11:1 It is hard to tell what makes the miss go away, or if the car is just running better at that time.