zguy36

Thanks for the help guys. I did a quick calc with my airflow calculator and yes, I am following the surge line of the V trim compressor all the way from 5lbs/min to 15lbs/min where it then goes back into a somewhat efficient range. I'm in the midst of a job search right now, so no cash to spread out to the car. I do have my tubular manifold done so that I can strap on any turbo with a T4 exhaust flange. I've got a few bugs to work out with this turbo setup anyway. Maybe you guys can shed some light onto this bug: At high rpm, 5000-6000, I have a bad miss. Sometimes it is bad enough that the car won't accelerate past that point, others it just doesnt' make much power. Sometimes, it pulls really strong clear to redline. Specs, megasquirt II, GM hei ignition coil, new plugs, new wires, 24 deg advance, 16psi boost, 11:1 AFR.

Has anyone on here run their turbo up to the surge line? I know this is a bad thing and I think that my turbo is reaching that point. I always thought that the turbo would not operate there, as in not be able to reach that point, but am beginning to think otherwise. I am running a T3/T4 hybrid with the stock T3 ehaust side and V trim T4 compressor. After upgrade to a megasquirt and larger injectors, I am able to turn up the boost. This tiny turbo builds full boost by 3000rpm. When the boost is turned up to 20psi and the rpm is 3000, my boost flucutates rapidly until about 3600rpm then smooths out. I am thinking this is the surge line of that compressor. Has anyone actually had this happen?

Welcome to the world of fabrication. You can fit a down pipe in there no problem. It seems that it will clear number six tube just fine. Get a welder, a torch, and a good hacksaw and go to town!

Justin, How many justins are there that work at spec in the customer service department? If I recall, when I called spec about my piece of *&$( burnt up clutch, an real nice man named justin told me that I should be happy with the 15,000 highway miles that I got out of my slipping stage II clutch. I pulled the clutch out, and it seems as though there was only twenty thousands worn from the disk (the entire disk didn't contact the pressure plate, so it didn't wear across the whole surface). The flywheel and pressure plate were blue as hell and the clutch wouldn't hold up to my measly 300hp. I called you, you were very nice, but basically told me that spec wouldn't stand up for their products and there was nothing you could do for me. You said I could send my clutch disk, pressure plate, and flywheel (I would hate to see the shipping cost off that one) and let you take a look. You also told me that the chances of getting a new one were zero. Forgive me, but I think that a clutch should last for more than 15,000 miles with only a handful of drag launches. Also, if you want to talk about the wonderful customer service that you have there at spec, I can post a copy of the emails sent back and forth between Dave Norton where he called me a moron. Yes, he called me a moron. I think that a customer service rep should not be calling their customers morons to their face. Don't come on to this website touting how spec clutches are good and that you are willing to help out those who have been burnt by them unless you are willing to stand behind them. -jeremy-

What are you trying to achieve with a composite guitar? Is this just for a cool factor, or for lightness? If you want lightness, then wood would be your best bet, instead of a hollow glass one. Post your solid model of your idea in the downloads section so we can take a look. Don't use carbon fiber, as it has good vibration damping capabilities. That wouldn't be good for an instrument that is supposed to be vibrating!

The first time I heard a BOV on a diesel, I thought I was going nuts. I ran home real quick and did a search and found those electronic ones, and spend the rest of the night laughing that someone would pay 500 bucks to put a BOV on their diesel.

Your electronic setup will have no advantage over a normal manual setup. Stick with the simple ball and spring until you can afford a real electronic setup.

?WTF? You don't need a blow off valve on a diesel. Since you have not throttle plate, you will have to backing up of air as the non-existant throttle plate closes. Simple, you do not need! Your engine doesn't even make vacuum to pull one open! I do believe that some companies sell an electronically actuated one if you really want to have the sound. IMO, you'll look like an idiot having one on an engine that doesn't need one.

if you want to dive into the world of engine managment knowledge in a do-it-yourself way, go with the megasquirt. It has the functionality of much more expensive systems for less that a quarter the cost.

You gonna put these things in production?

So output shaft of the tranny is coaxial with the input of the differential? This is not good to have both shafts on the same axis. This makes it so that the needles in the u-joints will never turn, which will wear them out faster and make them weaker. (Each needle wears a tiny groove in the race since they don't rotate making a stress concentration and a breaking area) Ideally, you want a couple of degrees angle for each u-joint to take up,but still have both shafts parallel.

look in the download section. I have posted the flange dimensions for the l28 turbo

sce is a good source for head gaskets. I think I paid around $80 for mine. Beware of sealing problems though. I first installed mine (all freshly machined surfaces) with copper coat sealant and it started leaking combustion gasses into the coolant. I talked the my engine builder and he recommended another spray sealer that contains Hylomar. That worked quite a bit better, but I still have leakage issues. In my opinion, I would stay away from the copper, as they seem to have issues sealing.

Clifton.. I like the new avatar!

Can you post some more pics of your car with these wheels... Those things look good! I want to do something similar with mine. Can you list what wheels these are their specs(lug pattern, offset, price) Thanks! -jeremy-

What does the 1x1 support tube do? It doesn't seem to be strong in any useful direction. Any force transmitted through the TC rod will be axial (no moment). This would put a direct moment on that tube which is its weakest direction. Is this for support for a force other than the forces through the TC rod?

A manometer is a pressure sensing device, in which pressure pushes a fluid up a tube (ie, inches of mercury). I also have had issues with pressure in my tank. None of the stock charcoal canister parts were there and many of the vent tubes were gone. With no money at first, I plugged everything off and left the tank sealed. Worked great in the winter, but in the summer, I noticed my tank bulging one day. I vented my gas cap to compensate for this, which worked great unless you corner hard with above 3/4 full tank. I would get tons of gas sloshing out the vent (very bad). So, I unvented the cap and unpluged the line that originally went to the charcoal canister. I do not have e-check here so I don't have to worry about emmisions. I have not had any trouble with this current setup and I get very consistent gas tank pressures. My molehill was a mountain, with gas spewing on the ground, or bulging tanks due to pressure.

Any luck with re-gapping your plugs? I tried a new set of wires and shielded the dizzy wires, still no luck. It does seem to be much better when the engine isn't fully warmed up, say 90% warm.... Frustating old electronics!

You don't want too much vacuum in the crank case as it draws air in through the main seals. This is very bad since it brings dirt with it chewing up the seals and contaminating your oil. The stock location for the breather tube works well, which in reality just went into the air inlet tube after the AFM. This is the inlet for the pcv and should be able to draw air in through this hole. To see what I am saying, pop off the hose and put your finger over the hole. You will feel it pull a vacuum....

Yours is threaded? Mine is just a hose fitting....

It is a pcv breather tube.

You can use microsoft "paint" (standard most computers) to resize your pics. Its a real weak program, but does have it's uses.

How much more does this weigh than the stock setup? It looks really beefy/overbuilt

grab a ruler and measure the thickness of both flywheels. You can measure every critical dimension and compare it to the stock flywheel. If the dimensions are off, send it back.

Bad news for spec, their clutches such. Many others have had trouble with centerforce as well. My next route will be ACT.