zguy36

Both are correct. Think of flowrate out of the injectors as an equation of the difference in pressure between the inlet of the injector and the outlet. A rising rate regulator increases fuel pressure as manifold pressure increases at a one to one rate, keeping the differential pressure exactly the same. This makes for a good consistency in the flow characteristics of your injectors.

You should be happy that it didn't wear out first! That is the same disk I ran in my car, and got 20,000 miles of highway driving out of it. We all know how hard repeated 50 mile commutes are, let the clutch out once and go!

I haven't had luck with either platinum or irridium plugs. From my experience they seemed to work great until the engine has a little detonation. I personally broke the ceramic insulator from around the electrode on five of the six plugs on one run that experienced a little detionation. I am not talking about engine blowing detionation either, since I have exerienced that mild detonation over 100+ times through the last six years of driving this engine. A good copper plug works great, just replace them a little more often.

How is the drivability with a sintered iron disk? Is this disk sprung or unsrung? Is this a race only car, or is it street driven? I think I am going to try the route of a ACT's extreme pressure plate with a street disk to get more torque capacity but still maintain drivabilty. I have felt several cars with the extreme plate and they have a pretty stiff pedal, but nothing that is overkill.

Just got off the phone with spec... very friendly shisters.... I told them my story, 280ish ft/lbs of torque, take to the drags twice a year, and 15,000 miles of freeway driving. They said, I don't doubt you, these clutches are finiky and that I should be satisfied with that amount of mileage. As speeder showed, these are no good for drag use, and as I have shown, no good for street use.

I am only making ~280hp.... and am running 205-70-14 high mileage tires. If it was some crazy horsepower numbers, any clutch should be able to put those tires into smoke instead of slipping.

My spec stage II clutch gave up the ghost with around 280hp with very few drag launches and mostly highway miles. Spec sucks! These are the least expensive good clutches out there? APPLICATIONS:Datsun/Nissan, Toyota 2 & 3 TC, 20-22R, 2.6 L Mitsubishi, and Subaru LIST RACER5012 2 Disc 5.5 Clutch & Flywheel Complete 945.00 895.00 5511ST 7.5 Stock Appearing Steel Billet Clutch & Flywheel Assy. (Toyota 2 & 3TC, 20-22R, 2.6 L Mitsubishi) 14 lbs. 739.00 699.00 5020 5.5 or 7.5 CUSTOM FOREIGN CLUTCH DISCS 199.00 179.00 5020-2 5.5 or 7.5, 2 Disc Clutch Package 5.5 or 7.5 CUSTOM FOREIGN CLUTCH DISCS 359.00 339.00 5019 5.5 or 7.5 Alum. or Steel Billet IMPORT Flywheel (2 & 3TC, 20-22R, 2.6 L Mitsubishi, and Subaru) 399.00 389.00

Most of the stock turbos crack around the wastegate hole. Mine has some pretty big cracks there, and also one going around the inside of the snail. Don't worry too much about the cracks, as they don't hurt performance. They just look really bad!

Is anyone here running a spec stage II clutch in their turbo motor? Spec rates this clutches to 450ft/lbs of torque (far from what I am making) and I have about 20,000 miles on this clutch. I did a quick shift from first to second this afternoon and the rpm shot up to 6000 and stayed there till the car accelerated to that speed. Then, smoke filled the cabin and I gained frustration for a shitty clutch. Anyone else have problems with these?

I've got the same problem. The problem remained after scrapping all of the stock ecu and converting to a megasquirt. I'm thinking it might be noise in the wires coming from the distributor since the run right under the plug wires. I replaced the plug wires (bought cheapy autozone ones) and the problem changed from not so bad to really bad, so I think I know the solution. I'm gonna try a good set of plug wires and shield the distributor wires and maybe get a better signal to the ecu.

shur-flo pumps are the way to go since they are made for pumping water, can be run dry without damage to the pump, and are internally pressure regulated.

I understand the purpose of both ports. The top one goes to the intake manifold after the throttle body, and the bottom one (some don't connect this) goes to a boost reference before the throttle body. I can also be left as a vent for the bottom side of the diaphram. Go back and re-read my post about the troubles I am having. Your problem was a torn diaphram, but everything inside of my valve seems to be in perfect order.

I can change the valve operation with the spring adjustment.... loose gives no boost with a little surge, tight gives more boost with lotso surge

Here is a post that I put up on the megasquirt forum... just thought the info might be useful here too. zguy36 MegaSquirt Newbie Joined: 20 Jul 2005 Posts: 10 Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:54 pm Post subject: predictor algorithms What is the difference between the ignition predictor algorithms? I couldn't really see much info on the advantages of each. Trying to diagnos a stumble at high rpm, I switched from 'last interval' to 'first derivative, second derivative'. When I made the switch, the engine has detonation problems that it didn't have before. Ie detonation at 10psi compared to 20psi. I don't have a timing light readily available, but seem to think that the timing has probably been advanced due to this switch, since detonatoin is such a problem now.Back to top zguy36 MegaSquirt Newbie Joined: 20 Jul 2005 Posts: 10 Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:26 pm Post subject: So, it seems as though this post is a lame duck. I'll answer my own question, at least for what I wanted to know. I stuck a timing light on the car and ran it up through the rpm. To make it easy, I set all entries in the table to 10 degrees advance. All the settings seemed to work pretty well, except for (1st derivative high, second derivative low). This one made the tach jump around and it ran like "crap". The others seem to retard the timing about two degrees at 6000 rpm, not really a big deal. The big deal however, is that when switching between the different predictors, the base timing changed as much as 20 degrees. I had no idea that this happened. When I first got the squirt up and running, I had it set to the default and based the timing there. It ran like "crap" so I switched it to 'last interval'. This made my timing 13 degrees retarded from the original setting. I didn't realize this, and you can imagine how happy I am not that I found it. Oh so much more power! (I had been driving it like that for a month!) Anyway, watch out for this so no one else gets burnt.

These are all things that I have tried, with no avail. I have put bleeds in the signal lines, switched the line locations, changed spring tensions, but still no luck. Doesn't matter too much though, I am fighting other issues now. It seems as though OBX sells fuel pressure regulators with diaphrams that are not fuel safe. My diaphram swole up when exposed to fuel and ruptured within two minutes of installation.

for below 15psi, I can get the valve adjusted to work correctly, but I don't want to run that little boost! Above 15psi, the darn thing just won't work right no matter how much tweaking I do to it. Frustrating as hell! Things that I think might be causing me problems with this are the small stock throttle body. My intercooler pipe is 2.5inches, and the small stock throttle body is around 2inches. My thoughts are that there is a couple psi pressure drop across the throttle body resulting in a pressure differential between the two reference ports on the BOV. If these two ports don't have the same pressure in them, then the valve will try to open. Which reminds me that I have already thought about this.... My attempt to correct that problem was to put both reference signal lines from the throttle body. With both lines inside the throttle body, both of them should recieve the same pressure.... which leads me to the next though... If both lines are inside the throttle body, then they will be at a lower pressure than the valve face of the BOV. The type-r bov has a really large valve face, which equates to quite a bit of pressure trying to open it. Since the throttle body is small, and before and after the throttle body is large, this is in essence a venturi, which gives lower pressure inside the venturi than outside the venturi. This would have lower line pressures in the reference ports than at the valve face..... which leads me to my last thought of that it shouldn't matter. If both sides of the diaphram inside of the BOV are the same surface area, then the force should cancel out as long as the pressure is the same on both sides, which it SHOULD BE! ANy more insight would be appriciated.

I am about fed up with my greddy type-R bov and was wondering if anyone else has had these bov problems. The problem is that the valve doesn't actuate correctly. It has two line ports on it.. the top one that goes after the throttle body and the bottom one that goes before the throttle body. If I want to run more than 10 psi of boost, I have to tighten the adjustment screw on the bov so tightly that it won't blow off with lower boost pressures. This translates to turbo surge all the time during normal driving, which is quite annoying! If I loosen it up enough that it opens correctly, then at high boost levels 15psi, the valve opens even when the throttle is wide open and leaks off my boost pressure. Has anyone else had these problems? I have taken the valve apart and there is not a thing wrong with it. I also had similar problems with the greddy type-s bov (thats why I changed to the type-r)

If you want to gauge the interest in your products, you should post pictures of what you want to sell. Depending on your skills, your manifold could be worth nothing, or $1200. Schedule 40 pipe is way too thick. I just finished my manifold using schedule 10 stainless pipe and it weighs just as much as the stock cast manifold. Going to the larger pipe is just going to be a waste of weight.

Which is it, lean or rich? If you are reading stoich at full boost, then that is lean. Running that lean is dangerous and also bad for making power. Lets look at your other mods.... Fuel pump is good for zero horsepower. The stock turbo fuel pump can keep up with 14psi of boost, so you aren't really gaining anything with that upgrade. Bigger throttle body and shaved manifold aren't really good for much either at the boost levels you are running. Those are good mods when your flow numbers get a bit higher. The fuel pressure regulator isn't good for more power either, just for supporting larger levels of boost. I'm not sure about the size of the rb20det turbo, but my intuition says that it is probably pretty small since it is off of a two liter engine. You might be running the turbo out of its efficiency range at 14psi and it might also be too much of an exhaust restriction to make the power you are looking for. Just curious,but what numbers were you expecting?

You answered your own question, it is running too rich. Get a wideband gauge and start doing some tuning. From there, you can start to get an idea of what is going on.

I just swapped over to a megasquirt and the most boost I could run with the stock injectors was 15psi. How does a bad boost controller make you run less than stock boost? The stock wastegate diaphram won't even pull open at all at 4.5 psi making your boost controller a mute point. There has to be something else wrong with the turbo (worn, or exhaust leak, or poor tuning) that would make it not at least put out 7psi.

I guess I should add something to this post too, since I am the one who got it off tangent. Here's my intercooler. Just the right width to fit around the stock radiator.

Wow, that header looks really good. I wish the weather here would clear up, I am driving myself nuts looking at all these sexy parts, but not having access to my car!

thehelix112, Can you post a pic of your exhaust manifold? I can see that your turbo isn't in the stock location and haven't seen a manifold that puts the turbo there before. Thanks!