TONY C

I have used Several SS autochrome Tial look alikes and even mixed parts from the 2. They are Identical to the Tial unit. Except the price. Very good units. Don't be scared because they are inexpensive. They are not Cheap made.

I have a complete setup off an Excellent runner. Intake and exhaust mani, oil line, injectors, fuel rail, T3, wastegate actuator, etc What all do you need? PM me if you want to talk $$$

The mirrors are Hella 4004GT They are about 35+ years old. Hard to find but very unique.

I don't think he is out to burn me. I think he just doesn't understand all the time and effort involved. I want to be completely fair with him. But I have to be fair to myself too. I'm thinking the best thing to do is to charge an hourly rate. There is just too much to do to put a final number on it up front. This way the car can make it to the level he wants based on what he wants to spend, and I get paid for my time accordingly. He'll probably come out better this way too. I can put it together pretty quick once I have All the parts. Tuning takes time to get spot on.

Thanks guys. Like I said, He will be paying for all the parts upfront. I am a privateer. Low overhead. Here's a pic of what he wants. This is my car. (I just sold) I think I WAYYY Underpriced the job:iospalo: I'm gonna link this thread to him so he can decide if he wants.

I will try to get it all in this post but I am sure there will be more. Remember all of what I am doing will require the stock car to be disassembled first. No parts Just labor. 20-40 hours on the phone with customer Track down most all parts needed to do the build install 350 seats, install 2 new rear view mirrors stereo system, complete polly suspension system front and rear and steering struts and springs take car for new tires trans and rear mount new shifter boots toyota brake upgrade with stainless lines rebuild rear brakes mount 240z rear bumper re-key all door and hatch locks door seals quarter glass seals inners and outers disassemble and reassemble turbo motor with all new external parts and some new internal remove old motor and trans install new motor and trans mount intercooler build and install IC pipes and hoses clean and paint under hood and engine compartment. It has undercoating all over it install new 3" exhaust system mod new exhaust for wastegate dump install and tune MSD setup build fuel system complete front to rear custom add on injector setup and tuning tune and install all electronics for new motor setup Detail the entire setup Drive the car from Knoxville TN to Orlando to deliver and fly home I am sure I left out a bunch of stuff. I'll add to a new post when I remember it. So, what do you think all this should cost? thanks Men tc

Hey guys. I am building a turbo car for a difficult customer. He has sent me a very nice stock, running and driving 75 280z and a ton of parts. I will have to supply some of the parts and he will pay for them. I will also supply All the labor to build the entire car. I gave him a ball park figure and He Choked. I don't think he realizes what it cost to do what he wants and he keeps adding more every day. So. I would like to see what you guys think it should cost to do this build. Here is a list of what he wants done. His goal is 275+hp So let me know what you think thanks tc

I have 1 in great condidion in Knoxville tn. $50 shipped. pm me if you still need it. peace tc

Looking for a pair of rear caliper brackets from a maxima or whatever to fit s30 If you have a pair please pm me. thanks tc

Is this Crook still operating?? I just got a call from a fellow HybridZ member I am building a car for and He has been Ripped a new 1 from this guy to the tune of $6500. You should see the crappy parts and workmanship this Frankie did to this car. Real piece of work. I can't believe the crap done to this car. He also told the guy it is a 10 sec car with the mods done to it. Maybe he meant 10 seconds till it Grenades?? Stay away from Ghetto Freddie.

! Sold !

Somethin I wanted to add to this discussion. Only days before I started having pump problems, my alternator took a dump. Killed the battery and left me having to get a jump start. I believe the voltage drop during operation caused the Walbro to begin to fail. Also I believe the stock pump I used is fine. It just can't keep up with the 1.1 fpr, causing the fuel psi to drop to around 35psi. Not enough on the boost.

So I drained the tank again. put a new supply hose on and went for a drive. Same thing! I swear I can turn the car off for a split second and restart it and it's good for a couple hard pulls. then it starts loosing psi. What the Hell??? I got a guy coming to look at the car for sale tomorrow. Hope this doesn't keep him from buying it. This is the 3rd pump I have had in 3 years of boosting. I'm beginning to think the in tank pump setup is the way to go.?? HELP!!

^^^ me too I plumbed in the stock pump and had the same problems. Upon better inspection it looks like the supply hose is in a compromise and folding shut. I am going to replace the supply today. I'll report back.

I hear ya.. or the Walbro. I havn't worked on it yet but I will have too soon. I have a guy wanting to buy my car now so I must get it fixed. Seems these Walbro pumps are notorious. Any Quality alternatives?

So you added a low psi pump at the tank to push fuel to the Walbro? Still doesn't make sense. Why would the Walbro work fine for soo long and then all of a sudden need to be fed.? I was looking at my setup and even tho I lowered the pump as low as I could with the stock pump hanger I think lowering the pump as low as the bottom of the tank may fix the problem. From what I have read the Walbro is not a good suction pump but a pusher pump. Seeing as I have done alot of hard driving with 1/4 of a tank and the bottom of the pump hangs about 2.5" above the bottom of the tank, I think starvation is the culprate. I am going to make a pump hanger that puts the pump lower and see what happens. This pump may be already smoked tho. But worth a try.

just wire in your factory resistors. They already fit in the car, are the correct resister, weatherproof, and have a quality plug. If you are making a new wire harness you can remove the old spade connectors from the plug and put new in. I have used mine this way from the start and it works Great.

Think I'll try another ground wire just to see. All my wires are new, big and multiple but who knows?. The stock replacement pump used a different connection than what my line fittings will connect to. On monday I'll get some and try the new pump.

Yes.. Actually. I ran a hot wire from my battery disconnect switch in the cockpit to the fuel pump. Altho the problem wasn't as bad it was still there. Shut the pump off momentarilly and restart and go again for a minute. I guess it's time for a new pump??

sounds like the hose has collapsed inside. Replace all the rubber hose in the system. It's a pain but worth it. Blow thru all the lines before you put the new hoses on.

Hey Guys. I havn't posted for a long time mainly cause my car has been Great! But.. The other day I went for a regular trip to The Gap. While I was thrashing I had a few lean moments and then the car shut off. No restart. I snooped around and found my Fuel Pump fuse in my MS relay box had popped. Replaced the fuse and the car started. And then Died a couple minutes later. Popped fuse again. Let it sit for a bit and put a new fuse in. The car got me home but was pushing 15-30lbs of fuel pressure. I have a permenentally mounted Fuel psi gauge on my passenger incpection lid. It's tapped into my Aeromotive 1.1 regulator. So today I started the car and took it for a drive. Still Very low fuel psi. Brought it home. Checked for proper voltage at the pump and relay box and all looks well. Drained the tank of gas, it was Clean. Disconeccted all the fuel lines, all are braided with AN fittings, Cleaned the Aero1 fuel filter, Blew through all the lines and put it all back together. My fuel supply lines connect to a rear sump box on the tank and it does not have a pre/sock filter. Cranked the car. Fuel psi is back to good. I do notice the pump whinning a little more than usual but these Walbro pumps are loud always. Take it out for a spin. Boost it to 14-15 psi for 2-3 miles and all is well. Go to turn around to go home and fuel psi cuts to 10psi. Car doesn't die but barely idles. Pull over check the fuse and it's good. Restart and it runs fine. So I decide to drive some more. When the fuel psi starts to drop, if I put the car in neutral and shut it off and then restart it will run Great for a mile or 2 and then do it again. Over and over. Like something is abstructing the fuel line. But everything that came out of the tank was very clean and I had the tank cleaned and sealed about 1.5 years ago when I welded on the sump box. I wonder if the fuel pump may just be crapping out or if it's something with MSII? any suggestions? thanks tc

They Look really flashy and Nice. I do like the exposed King pin and nut. That makes for easier replacement. Thay also look like they set the wheels away from the board more than a conventional truck. That's Great for Vert ramp and Bowl skaters but most street riders like the wheels closer to the board. Better for flip tricks. Also the square peg part of the pivot looks like it could use a bit of clearancing so it does not come in contact with the base plate during extreme lean. How well will the metal used Grind and hold up to Grinding?. 1 reason that some truck companies (ie. Independent) and others have been soo successful is cause they do not break and they Grind really well giving loads of feedback without grabing the rail or coaping. The axel Must be full length. Must be Light and Super strong. Skateboarders are hard on equepment. Skateboarders are also Cheap! If they are more than $40-$50 a pair. They will not sell to "Real" skaters.

You know your probably rite. The only reason I stopped tuning at 18-20psi is because I couldn't get past it. The 3psi was in the wg when I got it new. I'll try a 7 and go from there. I just scored a 30 piece box of mandrel 3" bends. Maybe I'll make a new dp while I'm at it. Thanks for the help tc

I have the WG on a spacer block between the turbo and mani. The 38mm might be a bit small but it is set up rite. Never had any over boosting problems before. always steady and easily controllable to any level I wanted. I'll check the gains again but I think the solenoid gave in the towell. If so then I need to decide my route of repair. It is nice to have the adjustability at my finger tips like the Greddy. But a new stiffer wg spring will return the car to it's glory. Just not adjustable so easy like that. But less expensive. It's not a daily anymore so I might just get a few springs and be done with it. peace tc

Yeah the spring starts opening at 3psi but the turbo still puts out 7psi with the 38mm Tial wg fully open. I am runnning a Garrett t3/t4 hybrid 60 trim and 2.5" mandrel dp. I could most definately make more power with a larger dp but the faster spool at low rpm is worth it to me. The smaller dp probably contributes to the psi difference too?