TONY C

just thought I would let you guys know. thanks tc http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&viewitem=&item=230217543336&rd=1

For $17 I would not expect it to last for ever. doesn't mean it's "cheap" tho. Just inexpensive. I finally got tired of the gear reduction starters crapping out so I went to an ol' skool starter. All my starter problems are fixed and have been for a long time. ol' skool for me. I say get it.

Nice!

MGuire's or however it's spelled. spend some time and really buff it. The spots will come out. Your car looks good like it is. IMO.

Video's Section. FTW! YEAH!!!!!

Not exactly going to find a welder like that in your garage tho. Or your neighbors.

I delete the EGR. system on every car I get. Luckily we have no emision testings. Never understood how pumping spent exhaust back into an engine could posibly be good for it. I mean... We spend alot of time and money on our air filtration systems just to turn around and pump a big piece of carbon right back in. Dump the whole thing. While your at it. If you havn't yet. drop the air pump and gut the cats too.

other than having a nissan part #... What makes these sooo desireable? they look almost the same as the ZG's

WOW! that is great. My buddy and I just got back from the gap. kept in boost 80%+ the whole time. Calculated our milage on the fill up on the ride home. 11mpg. Considering how hard we drove it. full drift mostly. That is Awesome milage. Normal driving and no boosting above 5-7psi I have calculated 26ish mpg. I just can't seem to drive that way for long. MS is GREAT!!

^^^ yeah yeah. oil is cheap. that motor is not.

I got my wheel off e-bay for like $30. dude sells them chrome, 1/8 thick, multiple mounting points. I mounted mine in front with a few small spacers I can send you a pic if you like. peace tc

check this out. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

the 2 stotted plastic discs might be for turning the shaft to make adjustments to the shock.

thanks for the heads up Mike. everything else on my car is loud, so.. these might as well be too. So Mike. what direction did you have them installed?

if I use the oe holes and turn the plate the way I want to . I will get negative camber and positive caster at the same time. Isn't that what I want.? By leaning the top of the strut "back" and "in" at the same time. Creating neg. camber and positive caster.

thanks ozzinc I know they sit on top and I will have to remove some material. no biggie. just looks like they will fit better the other way and give more adjustment. The way they are on the Sharp car has got to be rite. But, they hang way over the strut tower and are at the limit when installed and have no more neg camber adjustment than without them. All kinds of pos adjustment tho. But that's not what I need. If I install them like my top pic. I will have all kinds of adjustment either way. Only, the more neg I go they will move the strut top foreward too. Plus they fit the tops of the housings WAY better that way. the angle of the plates is exactly the angle of the fenders and none of it sticks out like the Sharp way. Dang I am confused. I was expecting them to install like the Sharp car but they still look wrong, and don't give any neg adjustment. Also if you adjusted them all the way positive. The plates would hit the fender b4 all the adjustment was used. The other way they fit perfect, look rite and give all the adjustment either way without interferance. Also look at the instalation page. No mater how you turn it. The front is never like the pic. The bolts are in different places. I don't know what to do

so.. How do I mount these I think the first pic is correct but don't understand why it moves the strut foreward too. The second pic is what I expected but just don't look rite. what's the correct way? thanks tc

dude I am so sorry to read this. I live in Maryville Maybe I can somehow help you out . pm me

Are you trying to stay away from hydrolic? How about a motor cycle caliper and master cylinder? You could make it self contained. no need to plumb into the braking system. And still light enough. 1 Good front caliper off a newer sport bike should do it. masters are small too. now you got me thinking....

I did it with the Timeserts. easy. I have gave that head hell. no problems yet

so if the obx from a 240sx fits the 280z r-200. will an oem lsd from an 240sx fit in a 280z r-200? prolly been answered but I didn't find it. peace tc

seems to me that if they wanted to hide something they would add the least amount of info possible. usually when things seem fishy... they are.

at $3 + per gallon. almost anything is worth it. almost.?

you know they jacked it... any specialty shop knows what is what. I say blow their name up! Don't let this happen to other people. kinda like a rape victum that never tells.

Ok.I forgot to mention that I am using MSA sway bars and bump steer spacers too. So you guys are saying to keep the rear alone and put the plates up front to get the neg camber closer to the rear.? the front tires are wearing even now. I think just by looking at it that the rear tires are toed in a bit. That's prolly the wear problem. I guess the next step is adjustable LCA's for the rear?