TONY C

that"s what I was thinking. Can I get a replacement solenoid or do I have to get a new complete unit? Where should I look? thanks tc

no. it is plumbed back to the exhaust. But when the Greddy is turned off it only reaches boost levels that are correct if the wastegate is working correctly. The problem only occurs when the boost controller is On.

I've had my car running great for almost 3 years now. Well tuned to 20psi. Never gives trouble. So the other day I take it out. After warm up I start to get on it. Running my Profec B on low (about 12-13 psi) Bam. Pegs 20psi ab about 2800rpm. I get out of it. Switch it over to high (17-19psi) Get it in 4th and hammer it. Closed circuit of course. Holds good till about 5000rpm then.... RATTLE.. Spark knock. Damn. Never had that before. Drive it home and check the profec B and it shows highest boost achieved. 43.5psi I start looking. and find the hose clamp on the intake mani side to the brake booster had left town. The feed hose to the Greddy is rite next to it. That's got to be it. Put a new clamp on and go again. Same problem but I didn't let it get out of control this time. I start thinking maybe the Tial 38mm is not opening. So.. Turn off the Greddy. It still records boost just doesn't interfear with the wastegate spring. 3psi spring in this case. Start boosting and all is well, Max boost throughout a full pull in all gears was 7psi. That's all it got before the profec. I looked for cracked or broken hoses but all of mine are stainless braided and show no problems. Checked all the settings on the Greddy. Any Ideas? Thanks tc

I don't Care How Out of Date That Becomes ^^^^^ I'de still wear it like spandex... MMMMMMMMmmmmmm

:icon14:Thanks Jon. Your always a great help. You can shut this 1 down if you want. tc

Doohhhhh! My apologeeZ Jon. I have the Koni's for the rear too. Just havn't installed them. Waiting for put it all together. I like the front Koni's I have. Hope these are as good. I think you may be correct on the camber. I will probably mount them in the conventional way and pull a bit of camber out. Say I did. When I go to the alignment shop. Should I have it adjusted so that I can add - camber with the plates and leave the lower settings alone?. After adjustments of course.

Thanks for the help Jim. Your correct. I am running Radial street tires. I am really not sure I need any more - camber. I could drill new holes and mount them so they give me + and - adjustments. Does that sound OK? What about the inner camber kit? Any need for it if I go heims on the outers? Also I have a new pair of 300lb springs. Thinking of installing them too.? The rear of the car just lays down a bit. Especially under boost!

I have been using my plates in the front for caster/camber (pic 1)and have been really happy with the front of the car. I also have adjustable lca's and heims throughout. Koni Special D inserts. sectioned tube 225lb springs. MSA sway bar. On the rear of the car I need some more work. It lays down more than I want. Currently on Tokico blues:icon13: sectioned tubes, 250lb springs, polly bushings MSA Bar. So I scored another set of Koni D's. And I am going to heim the outer end of the LCA's with 3/4"-5/8"hole heims. . I have the adjustable inner kit with aluminum and derlin. Should I use them too? Also I was able to score another set of Carrera plates like my fronts. (pic2). My question is. Should I use them? And in what direction will they benefit me most for my setup? If you look at them ( pic 3) installed in the conventional way for camber. They will allow NO Negitive camber adjustment over stock. But they can add + camber. They could be installed so they work in a diagnal setting like my fronts??? (pic 4) Input GREATLY APRECIATED tc

No need for for a pine scent air freshner.

Well I have been running my BG t5 for a couple years now. I rebuilt it with new bearings and synchros b4 I installed it. I read all the horror stories about blowing them. But I use it anyway. The gear rattios just feel rite. I am well tuned to 18.5psi on a t4 compressor. No dyno numbers to back any hp/tq ratings, so I won't even throw a bogus number out there. I am Hard on my car. On Purpose. I built it and I want to know what is up to the task and what needs the next mod. Also where I drive is Very demanding! To say the least. I believe what has made my t5 last is no doubt the shifter. I went with a Pro5.0 shifter. It is all billet aluminum and steel. No plastic. Fully adjustable stops that do Not flex. No chance for "over shifting" and I have never missed a shift with the Pro5.0 If you go t5. Don't go without this shifter.

A buddy of mine in high school had a New, very early 84 300z. It had a L6 factory. Only 1 I ever seen.

I started out that way. But the relay board is just too convienant. I made a nice plexi cover that snaps to it too. Just for looks and to help keep out h2o.

my early JZ never ran hot. Barrily ran warm. But I was running a Koyo.

Dang! glad you didn't wreck. Wish I was closer to you. I have a nice windshield I would give you.

little update. I have 1000 miles on my 60mm wastegate and 50mm bov. Both Tial knock offs. They both work as good as the Tial and both cost less than either 1 of the Tial parts. These are very well made knock offs and are a very good deal.

You can buy the nipple on ebay and I think too intense restoration for like $10. You could take 2 oil filters and cut the bottems off them. Try ro spin them both on it like a jamb nut setup and loosen the rear 1. It might pull it out.? They are really not in there all that tight. I pulled 1 out once with a pair of vise grips. Had to file the threads a little bit after tho. It still worked.

.100 or .128 tabs. Either way... That's purrdy. Me like If you do a production run count me IN.

Well I ended up trading for the car. I've had it for a little over 30 days now. I've done alot and it is now very close to being done. Just a couple pics for you guys. And NO! I am not jumping ship. This 1 is for my wife. At least till summer is over. Then I will prolly sell it or trade it. It's boosting 15psi and is lightly tuned with an Apexi S-afc. Still waiting on my JAW wideband to go all out on the tuning. Went Tial 60mm wg and 50mm bov. 3" intercooler and piping. Spec 2 pp and 6 puck disc and Fidenza flywheel. bla bla bla so what. anyway here's some curent pics. and my home made PVC pipe gauge holder

Well I got my XS Power 50mm bov modeled off the Tial. I am putting it on my 1jz build that is not ready yet. I had to try it out. I am using the real thing on my Z. Soo.. the ole switcharoo. I got a little compressor surge where I had none before. Went home and took them both apart. They are almost identical. But the spring was noticably stronger in the XS. Put the Tial spring in the xs and went for a ride. Could not tell the differance in the XSPower and the Tial. + It was $140 less expensive. And blue. I am gonna get another spring for it or clip the 1 in it. But when I got my Tial I had to order it with the spring I wanted too. I think I'll try a wastegate now.

So Stony. Still running these today? How hany miles you racked up on em? How much boost have they seen? I am about to get some for my 1jz. Just wanted some more reassurance from someone that knows first. peace tc

don't waste your time. Build a new harness for the MSII. Your old harness is just that. OLD. Dry, Brittle, Corroded. And poorly made compaired to the wire available today. Typically if you use your old harness for the MS you will experiance alot of little glitches that will drive you crazy and probably end up damaging the MS. Also. Even tho you don't have to. You should! Use the MS relay box too. It protects the MS, has new type relays and fuses and is not 30+ years old.

I have a complete top to bottom front to back excellent running motor for $500 BTW. Roger (The Z Barn) is out of buisness. Sold most everything already.

I have made my own in a similar fashion with great results. Only using parts from a local circle track shop instead. I have camber plates too. I have been running them hard for 2.5 years and they have performed excellent. Mig welded and all. I have put them to the test on the "Dragon" regularly and I believe that 318 continuious kiss your behind curves at full slide on a weekly bases would have shown their weakness if there was 1. Of course I inspect them regularly. And as far as camber plates being enough. More adjustment is better than not. I set my camer plates up to operate in a caster fashion instead of camber. I know. Adjustable tc rods. I made them too. But if you want -3-4 deg camber and +6-7 degrees of caster and have an MSA II air dam or the like you will have to cut quite a bit off the front wheel well area to get the tires to clear (10" wheels 0 offset). With the plates setup in this fashion I can get all the caster I want with NO trimming or rubbing. Drop the aluminum turnbuckle for a steel unit and they will perform for a long time. A+ on the build.

Ok. so this guy wants to trade me a 93 Lexus sc300 with what he says is a 1jz tt swap converted to a single turbo for my Suzuki tl1000r the car needs finishing. Wiring and pipeing etc. I know nothing about Toyotas, I'm a Datto man. But I like the look of the Lexus. He claims the motor is a 94 JDM tt. But from what I have read a 94 should be a 2jz. How do I visually tell the differance.? here are some pics what do you guys think the car is worth finished?

savageskaterkid is correct. 38mm wastegate 2 bolt flange prefered. t3 turbo flange. if all goes well have a group for a 44mm wg and a t4 flange. later. If you run a quality wastegate like Tial or the like and a proper boost controller. you will have no creep.